Will Charging the Camper's Battery off my Spyder overload the Alternator

[Fatcycledaddy]

No, I just didnt think about drawing in a 120 volt cord to it. If you look at the 2nd set of pics in this link, https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...Classic-mods-1 you will see where the cord plugs into the exterior of the trailer.
The charger is GENIUS10 6V/12V 10-Amp Smart Battery Charger.

[Mjhitman]

Ok, so no isolator or relay? I like your system the best!

[BertRemington]

Mjhitman -- the primary goal of my solution was failsafe protection of the Spyder's battery charge as Spyder's are fussy about that. The protection relay is a standard 30amp ISO (Bosch) relay and the isolator is a 30amp diode.

Fatcycledaddy's solution is full-featured. However the apparent lack of an isolator diode is concerning

however all I have to do is plug the trailer in and there is a direct fused wire to the Spyder battery. All I would have to do is let it set a bit and it would charge

[Fatcycledaddy]

No isolator or relay. If I was tapping into the system somewhere like to the alternator, I would use one or the other. Running right to the battery, all it amounts to is three parallel batteries. Again everything is fused on trailer side and on buke side just in case something goes wrong.
I had one time when the bike battery was low, I plugged in the trailer, let it set about 10 min, and it started right up.
THis can work the wrong way too. After running everything off of the batteries in the trailer for a week, I plugged in the bike and went to take my shower. When I got back the bike battery was so low it wouldn't start. I plugged in the charger for about 20 min and was all set. I have learned that the last thing you do before you tow is to plug in the trailer, start the bike, check all the lights, then roll.

Good luck with your project. I love the way mine works.

[Jetfixer]

Your alternator is rated at 90 amps/1200 watts.

[Mjhitman]

What is the wire size you used for the bike and trailer?

[BertRemington]

Chop up this 16/2 extension cord https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Power-E...dp/B08B7Y1YQ3/

Stranded wires bundled into an abrasion-resistant sheathing.

[Mjhitman]

That's good to hear, I have 14awg run so far, so it should be good. Another thing is, what is the link for the relay and diode you recommend? I've been looking out there are so many choices. Thanks!

[BajaRon]

Adding one of these isn't a bad idea either. Not promoting this particular brand or model. Just an example of what I mean. Can come in REAL handy. They will charge your phone and jump start your vehicle if all else fails. For the price, they can be a real help when needed. When I carry one, it always seems like someone needs it. Never had to use it on my bike. But I know it's there if needed.

JumpPack.jpg

[BertRemington]

Here's my solution which doesn't require wire taps/splices. The 3-pin USA foglight connector has the following circuits on the socket side: Pin 1 Gray/Beige Low Beam Pin 2 Black Ground Pin 3 Gray/Green Foglight Prepare an AMP SuperSeal 3-pin jumper as follows:

Plug Pin 1 => Socket Pin 1 and Pin 86 of the Isolation Relay
Plug Pin 2 => Socket Pin 2 and Pin 85 of the Isolation Relay
Plug Pin 3 => Socket Pin 3

Separate the 3-pin connector pair for one of the foglights (right-side has easier access) and install the jumper.

The Spyder-side power circuit is Battery => 30amp ATO/ATC Fuse Holder => Pin 30 Engine-Running Relay
then Pin 87 Engine-Running Relay => 2-pin Trailer connector

The trailer-side power circuit is 2-pin Trailer connector => 30amp ATO/ATC Fuse Holder => Isolation Diode => Trailer Battery

But it's unlikely you have the SuperSeal connectors or crimping tool. They're very handy and easy to fabricate but unless you plan on more additions to your Spyder I'll skip the jumper.

At your local auto store buy a 4- or 5-terminal 30/40amp relay (it's a small square block with spade terminals) and the 30amp inline fuse holders. Splice pins 85 and 86 into the socket (3-wire) side of the fog light connector.

Here's the unhappy part for me. The isolator diode is something every electronics store would have but electronics (and ham radio) stores are almost extinct. So skip the diode. The Engine-Running relay is the superior solution; the diode is redundant protection.

==========

A friend has a SCTA roadster for which I do the wiring including the trailer. I have two breakout boxes, one by the hitch on the truck and one by the hitch on the trailer. Both boxes have LED status lights for all circuits (eg, White for Trailer Power, Blue for Brake Power, etc). Makes fault isolation easy. Except I'm not into faults...

[Fatcycledaddy]

What is the wire size you used for the bike and trailer?

I used 10 gauge wire

[newdave]

Whew, all this is too complicated for me! No disrespect to all the fine suggestions, but I like to keep it simple.

If all I was doing was charging electronics after a day's ride, I'd just carry a suitably-sized jump pack as suggested by @BajaRon. It can charge in the trunk as you're riding using the existing connection. These have more than enough juice to charge most devices.

[Fatcycledaddy]

Whew, all this is too complicated for me! No disrespect to all the fine suggestions, but I like to keep it simple.

If all I was doing was charging electronics after a day's ride, I'd just carry a suitably-sized jump pack as suggested by @BajaRon. It can charge in the trunk as you're riding using the existing connection. These have more than enough juice to charge most devices.

I can agree to a point if all you are doing is charging a phone. However I am using it for lights in the camper and trailer, a 12 volt fan to keep us cool, charging two headsets, two phones, two Thermocell bug repellers, one computer, and sometimes watches. I have yet to find a pack that will do all of that and not be to heavy for the trunk, besides using up trunk space.
Bert's way, although a great and proper solution, is more complicated thatn what the avarage do it your selfer is willing to try. I took a simple inexpensive way that is viable, simple, and has worked on two trailers for a total of about 14 years with not a single problem.
I first did this when towing the trailer with a 1991 Yamaha Venture Royale, known to have a week charging system, but used the same battery as the bike starting battery, with no problems. I then switched to larger batteries in 2015 with the first Spyder.

[Mjhitman]

THANK YOU! My point exactly!

[Mjhitman]

I can agree to a point if all you are doing is charging a phone. However I am using it for lights in the camper and trailer, a 12 volt fan to keep us cool, charging two headsets, two phones, two Thermocell bug repellers, one computer, and sometimes watches. I have yet to find a pack that will do all of that and not be to heavy for the trunk, besides using up trunk space.
Bert's way, although a great and proper solution, is more complicated thatn what the avarage do it your selfer is willing to try. I took a simple inexpensive way that is viable, simple, and has worked on two trailers for a total of about 14 years with not a single problem.
I first did this when towing the trailer with a 1991 Yamaha Venture Royale, known to have a week charging system, but used the same battery as the bike starting battery, with no problems. I then switched to larger batteries in 2015 with the first Spyder.

THANK YOU! My point exactly!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I am wanting to charge a RV battery in my Timeout Slipstream camper which I pull with my 2016 RTL. I have run positive & negative wires from the cranking battery to the rear of the bike with a fuse at the battery.

At the trailer connection I have a simple 4 pin plug for the trailer lights, with a separate 2 pin battery tender type plug for the battery charging connection. This way I can disconnect the trailer charging circuit when stopped for the night to keep from drawing power from the cranking battery in the bike.

In the trailer I have mounted a 100 AH deep cycle gel cell battery. The plan is to connect the charging wires to the battery to keep it charged when traveling. The purpose of the trailer battery is to charge small electronics, i.e. tablet, laptop, camera batteries, etc.

My question or concern is: will this overload the alternator on the Spyder? And if so, is there a way to accomplish this? I have the same type of setup on my trucks with batteries on different trailers that power small winches and hose reels, and this works great for that.

Right now, I have a reading of 12.8 volts at the plug at the back of the bike when stopped. When the bike is running it jumps up to 14.5 volts, which is consistent with my truck readings. I also plan on plugging a battery charger to the trailer plug when stopped and shore power is available.

Have any of you attempted this, and if so what do I need to look out for?

T.I.A.

I did this exact thing to charge my deep cycle battery in my trailer. I used 10 AWG to connect the Spyder battery to the trailer battery. The connection, an SAE two wire connector, is separate from the regular trailer wiring and connector. Here is the isolator/controller I used.

https://www.powerstream.com/battery-isolator.htm

The main advantage of using this system is the use of solid contact solenoid to connect the trailer battery to the Spyder charging system. Some have suggested using a diode to provide isolation. The problem with that is a diode will drop the voltage crossing it by about 1.5 volts. When you're dealing with the 13+ volts needed to charge a battery 1.5 volts can be a big hurdle. The electromechanical relay has close to zero voltage drop across the contacts so you get to use the full charging capability of the Spyder system. Also, this system provides total isolation between the batteries when the bike battery is below 13 volts. You can run down the trailer battery without being concerned about running down the Spyder battery at the same time.

The attached PDF shows how the Power Stream controller is to be connected. You don't have to use their solenoid. I don't remember what I used but it's capacity was enough to handle the charging current to the trailer battery.

Battery isolator.pdf

[Bfromla]

Adding one of these isn't a bad idea either. Not promoting this particular brand or model. Just an example of what I mean. Can come in REAL handy. They will charge your phone and jump start your vehicle if all else fails. For the price, they can be a real help when needed. When I carry one, it always seems like someone needs it. Never had to use it on my bike. But I know it's there if needed.

JumpPack.jpg

they quite handy indeed,& simple enough I can trust my lil sister to use have picked up a few to assist family members 4A161C78-34C3-4907-B3DB-3A0DA0007A5A.jpg 3F1F2B2B-4D9F-4834-BB38-58C0494F69AB.jpgset a calendar reminder to top off charge every 90days. (Most any li-po). Keeping them ready for the if & when. Rugged geek has nice case, Bully has a decent zippered pouch, the Halo lil soft pull string pouch. Each has basic features; jump start connection, flashlight, USB ports. (Some USB-A & or Combination A & C) some have a barrel connection various output voltage. Do like Rugged Geek has a Master on/off switch & button-not as ez accidentally draining. Worth researching & finding what fits you best & maybe luck out find some on sale at events(beware old boxes too long on shelf & is a brick)

[EdMat]

I did this exact thing to charge my deep cycle battery in my trailer. I used 10 AWG to connect the Spyder battery to the trailer battery. The connection, an SAE two wire connector, is separate from the regular trailer wiring and connector. Here is the isolator/controller I used.

https://www.powerstream.com/battery-isolator.htm

The main advantage of using this system is the use of solid contact solenoid to connect the trailer battery to the Spyder charging system. Some have suggested using a diode to provide isolation. The problem with that is a diode will drop the voltage crossing it by about 1.5 volts. When you're dealing with the 13+ volts needed to charge a battery 1.5 volts can be a big hurdle. The electromechanical relay has close to zero voltage drop across the contacts so you get to use the full charging capability of the Spyder system. Also, this system provides total isolation between the batteries when the bike battery is below 13 volts. You can run down the trailer battery without being concerned about running down the Spyder battery at the same time.

The attached PDF shows how the Power Stream controller is to be connected. You don't have to use their solenoid. I don't remember what I used but it's capacity was enough to handle the charging current to the trailer battery.

Battery isolator.pdf

I like this idea even better than using just a relay only operating when the engine is running. Thanks for the info.

[BertRemington]

As I said in my solution, an isolation relay whose voltage sense line is continuously connected to the battery is suitable for automotive batteries but a concern for Spyder (and motorcycle) batteries with their lower capacity and demanding electronics. My solution uses a circuit only draws current when the engine is running. With purchase of the parts needed leaving you with change from a $20 bill.

WRT the voltage drop of a diode, that went out of fashion when we stopped using selenium rectifiers. Please note PowerStream's "solid state 80 amp battery isolator" with a 0.2V voltage drop is a readily available MOSFET diode.

I was also concerned about too high a rate of charge (eg, LFX battery in Spyder, AGM battery in trailer) from the 1KW Spyder alternator which is why I included the option for the 1157 bulb in the circuit.

In the end Mjhitman is going to install the Fatcycledaddy solution and enjoy happy trailering until they pry the Spyder's ignition key out of his cold dead hands.