Could incorrect fuel grade cause Code P1614 & missing?

[Kevin]

Good morning,

I own a 2010 RT-S and yesterday got the infamous P1614 when I came out after breakfast. I rode the bike to breakfast without any indications of a problem. When I came out, I started the bike normally and I immediately got the check engine light, and the single code P1614 and what felt like an engine misfire. I shut down and restarted without change.

I decided I would limp over to the dealership and leave it there. When I arrived at the dealer, I shut down and as an afterthought I decided to recheck the code and make a note. When I restarted, the code was gone, and all was running normal. I decided to ride home and see what happens. I got home without incident and parked.

I went out later after the bike had cooled and restarted the bike. The code came back, as did the misfire. I retried the same procedure the next morning and code and misfire were still present. I decided to limp to my nearest gas station and filled with premium. I had to stop at a light, so I completely shut down for a moment and restarted. Code disappeared, and engine ran normal. I refilled and rode home, again no fault and smooth running.

I normally burn mid-grade gas as a minimum but remembered last fill I had accidently used regular.

Now the question, could my mistake in fuel grade have created the problem, and would the engine temperature combined with fuel grade be partially responsible? Thanks very much.


Follow up note. I went out this morning after letting the bike cool overnight. I started it up, and no code and engine ran normal. For information of others, low octane fuel seems like cause for code P1614 and misfire.

[Bfromla]

The computer supposed to adjust accordingly for minor changes **suppose to** unfortunately it can’t handle some major errors - Diesel, high ethanol, BAD GAS. Encouraging did have some proper start, some limited options: fuel additive <Berryman B-12, startron, seafoam & others but need mixing in what gas you have. As well as adding some fresh known quality gas. Still gotta use what’s already in system. Might not clear completely for a tank or two. Do NOT try run empty dry to purge some ethanol free might be preferable. & find recent receipts -contact the stations find out if was a problem(compensation)

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Good morning,

I own a 2010 RT-S and yesterday got the infamous P1614 when I came out after breakfast. I rode the bike to breakfast without any indications of a problem. When I came out, I started the bike normally and I immediately got the check engine light, and the single code P1614 and what felt like an engine misfire. I shut down and restarted without change.

I decided I would limp over to the dealership and leave it there. When I arrived at the dealer, I shut down and as an afterthought I decided to recheck the code and make a note. When I restarted, the code was gone, and all was running normal. I decided to ride home and see what happens. I got home without incident and parked.

I went out later after the bike had cooled and restarted the bike. The code came back, as did the misfire. I retried the same procedure the next morning and code and misfire were still present. I decided to limp to my nearest gas station and filled with premium. I had to stop at a light, so I completely shut down for a moment and restarted. Code disappeared, and engine ran normal. I refilled and rode home, again no fault and smooth running.

I normally burn mid-grade gas as a minimum but remembered last fill I had accidently used regular.

Now the question, could my mistake in fuel grade have created the problem, and would the engine temperature combined with fuel grade be partially responsible? Thanks very much.

I had the two V-twins and a 1330 and have always used 87 oct. with ethyl. ..... I have not had any issues from ONLY using 87 Oct. ..... There is a long list of GAS products that you can't use., some have been mentioned. ... good luck .... Mike

[chipveres]

Our 1330 will burn regular without a qualm. Just gets lower mileage. I suspect that you got a tank of bad gas. Either mixed with diesel or mixed with water.

[CopperSpyder]

P1614 (DISCRIPTION) Throttle idle position failure on throttle release, (CAUSE) Throttle mechanical adjustment. No TPS reset after throttle body/ ECM replacement (ACTION) Check throttle plate movement. Check idle stop for wear. Check throttle position sensor angle at idle, expected value 2-3.5 degrees Perform THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR RESET in B.U.D.S. with throttle grip accelerator not activated since at least 30 seconds. Refer to the SERVICE MANUAL for more details.

There are two know issues with the 2010 RT that will do what you describe. 1. Vacuum lines, 2. Throttle body. You can do a search here to see many post on the subject and how to fix. If you continue to have problems I would start with Vacuum lines and fuel / carburetor additive cleaner. Here is one post that you will find doing a search https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...t=Vaccum+lines

[ARtraveler]

Bad gas is the most likely cause of the error message. If that is the case, throw in some seafoam and put some miles on it if possible. Using any grade 87 and higher should NOT affect the performance in a noticeable way to the operator. l used to be one who would only put premium in the Spyders. I quit doing that many years ago. All my Spyders now run on 87 with 10% Ethanol. Never had an issue with that combination.

I know there are those that think I am full of baloney on this...but I and a few others stand on the octane argument.

If you determine it is NOT bad gas, then something else is going on. A few suggestions have already been made.

[safecracker]

Clean your throttle body. Had this code a few times on my 2011. The butterfly valves get really sticky from oil residue. This worked for me. Bruce

[BajaRon]

The crankcase vent system is poorly engineered on the 998. Oil gets into the airbox, then onto the throttle bodies. Over time this turns to a sticky residue and the electric motor (Fly-By-Wire) can have trouble regulating the butterflies. Carbon wil also build up on the valves.

You have to take the top of the air box off to get to the throttle bodies. You can then spray them down with B12 or similar to clean the oil residue. Then it is highly recommended to do this crankcase vent mod to prevent this from happening again.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ight=catch+can (Post #9 and on)

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ight=catch+can (Post #7 and on)

I am not saying that this is your issue. But this is a common problem with the 998.

[Gwolf]

Anything is possible, but I don't think just a slightly different grade of fuel would cause that. Like some people have already posted, it could be water in the gas, if the underground tanks are close to empty, or maybe trash in the gas.

Just a little FYI.......... Never fill up your car, truck, or motorcycles at a gas station where a fuel tanker truck is pumping a load of fuel into the station, or jiffy store, fuel storage tanks. The stream of fuel going into the underground tanks from the truck is stirring any water that may have separated out of the fuel left in the tank, right back mixed in with the good fuel. It will take some time for the water and the fuel to separate again. They can never drop a hose into the layer of water and pump all the water out of the tanks. Some will always remain in the tanks unless they pump the tanks completely dry, and that would be expensive. The trash that might be in the fuel tanks would be settled out, and the stream of fuel from the tanker truck re-filling the tank would stir that back up in the good fuel too. If you stop at a gas station that is getting, or just got, a load of fuel from a tanker truck, the best thing to do would be go on to the next gas station or try to make it until at least a couple of hours for everything to settle at the station that got the load of fuel. Don't run out of fuel, but if you was going to fill up before you parked it at home, maybe you could wait until you started off the next day to top the tank off.

Fuel filters and water separators are wonderful inventions, if they are kept clean.

[PaladinLV]

Two things are a major cause of this in order.
1. Cap not fully or correctly closed.
2. Hiccup
Since you did don't mention getting fuel during this period, I would go with 2.
When this occurs don't be in such a rush to restart. From what I've seen over the years, the hiccup disappears in 15-30mins. The gas cap almost immediately. However, the "limp" light may remain light much longer. You'll know for show as the indicator will be the ONLY indication and the bike will perform correctly.
Naturally, it could something else entirely EXCEPT NOT grade of Gas.
What I've stated comes from Group Riding with Spyders over the last 8 years.

AJ