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A question - what's the best way to lubricate all the cables?
What is the best/easiest way to lubricate the frunk, seat, top case, & saddlebag cables? Would 3-in-1 oil work, or would another lubricant be a better choice?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-25-2023 at 07:04 PM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly ask the question... ;-)
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Something similar to this if you can get to one end.
https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08...%2C103&sr=8-55
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Originally Posted by oldguyinTX
What is the best/easiest way to lubricate the frunk, seat, top case, & saddlebag cables? Would 3-in-1 oil work, or would another lubricant be a better choice?
WD-40 is not a lubricant .... It's only slippery when wet, after it dries it stops .... get a spray can of dry silicone .... it stays slippery for quite awhile .....
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
WD-40 is not a lubricant .... It's only slippery when wet, after it dries it stops .... get a spray can of dry silicone .... it stays slippery for quite awhile .....
Yeah, I wouldn't use WD-40, as it's really designed for water displacement, although it does sometimes work as a penetrating solvent. A garage door repair guy once told me to use WD-40 to lubricate the rollers & hinges on my garage doors. I asked him if he had already done so, and he said yes. I made him replace the rollers on both doors after a heated discussion with him & his boss.
Fun Fact: Where did the name WD-40 come from?
WD stands for "Water Displacement", and 40 was the 40th chemical combination to produce the desired result.
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2017 RT-S , Brake pedal extender is twice the size of the stock pedal. Champagne Metallic
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Absolutely! If used too many times WD-40 will build up a crusty residue and foul whatever it is used on. I clogged a set trigger on a custom made target rifle by using WD-40 way too many times to free it up. Finally, I had to remove it and take it to a gunsmith to have it cleaned up.
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Yes to silicone, no to WD40. WD40 has it's good uses just like duct tape. But neither one, contrary to popular belief, is a cure-all....
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
WD-40 is not a lubricant .... It's only slippery when wet, after it dries it stops .... get a spray can of dry silicone .... it stays slippery for quite awhile .....
I hate WD 40 with a passion.
The dry silicone should work, they also make a cable lube to use with the part that EdMat posted. I have that exact one.
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Originally Posted by oldguyinTX
WD stands for "Water Displacement", and 40 was the 40th chemical combination to produce the desired result.
True. I can't find the reference now. But I've read where there were over 80 different formulas tried. They finally settled on the 40th. So, it isn't like they got to 40 and said 'Eureka!'. They thought they could do better, at that point.
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Ditto with the silicone, and twice a year rub a bit on the gas cap seal to keep that working smoothly. Love the cable lube tool, never knew there was such a thing.
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Most modern cables have a silicon liner that the wire runs in. Manufacturers of these cables do not recommend any form of lubrication as it gives dust and dirt something to stick to.
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IMO, the best way is to remove the cable, spray a liquid wax or silicone in one end until it runs out the other, then re-install. Oils will only attract dust & dirt and only make it worse.
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Originally Posted by Flier Tuck
Most modern cables have a silicon liner that the wire runs in. Manufacturers of these cables do not recommend any form of lubrication as it gives dust and dirt something to stick to.
I don't think the cables that Can-Am uses comes close to that criteria.
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Originally Posted by EdMat
I got one of these years ago, they work great, but you have to have one end of the cable, so you can put the casing and cable in the unit, then you hook your lube straw up to the unit and spray the lube into the cable, works great! Some of the cables are not so easy to take apart on one end or the other, but it will work if you can. I find that marvel mystery oil will creep pretty well if you can get it on the end of the cable casing, can't hurt!
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Shawn Smoak uses chain wax, at least on the bag releases.
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From my limited experience its the catches that need attention way before the cables need lubing.
Is the catch working smoothly and adjusted correctly would be my first stop.
18 months ago I picked up my F3. All the catch mechanisms were in need of a clean and lube.
I keep an eye on those catches and give them a push with my finger from time to time when I have it open.
I ensure its operating smoothly and without effort.
Cables are fine.
Just my 2c worth.
and 3 in one will do the job, I lubed with engine oil from an old school oil can with a pump.
Last edited by Isopedella; 08-01-2023 at 01:01 PM.
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I have used 3 in 1 oil. It is a very light oil.
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Note, there are several technical bulletins relating to problems with cables to the rear luggage with water intrusion and problems with being able to open them. There are two versions of the technical bulletin, the later one is a revised copy.
An example is: SPYDER RT 2020-21 Saddle Bags Hard To Open - 138444 REVISED (NHTSA ID: 10203706)
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10203706-0001.pdf
This requires the cables to be replaced with stainless steel versions.
I didn't find any technical bulletins for any other cables.
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Putting any kind of oil on cables will only attract dirt, road grit, and dust. It will stick in the oil, and then the cable will drag through it every time it moves. Only use cable lube specifically designed for lubricating cables on them. Any shop that works on bikes should have a shelf full of cable lube to sell, or you can get it online.
Putting oil on cables would amount to the same thing as putting oil on a dirt bike chain. The chain would stay coated with sand and grit that sticks to it. The gritty particles would wear the chain and sprockets out faster than if you ran a dry chain.
Last edited by Gwolf; 08-02-2023 at 06:23 AM.
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Originally Posted by mecsw500
Note, there are several technical bulletins relating to problems with cables to the rear luggage with water intrusion and problems with being able to open them. There are two versions of the technical bulletin, the later one is a revised copy.
An example is: SPYDER RT 2020-21 Saddle Bags Hard To Open - 138444 REVISED (NHTSA ID: 10203706)
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10203706-0001.pdf
This requires the cables to be replaced with stainless steel versions.
I didn't find any technical bulletins for any other cables.
This is good to know, especially since the one on the left side of my 2021 RTL broke last week. With that being said, should it be fixed under this TSB at no charge? I have an extended warranty and am getting it fixed with that method. But there is a $50 deductible. If I can get it fixed for free, that would be even better.
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Originally Posted by blacklightning
This is good to know, especially since the one on the left side of my 2021 RTL broke last week. With that being said, should it be fixed under this TSB at no charge? I have an extended warranty and am getting it fixed with that method. But there is a $50 deductible. If I can get it fixed for free, that would be even better.
The exact same thing happened to my 2020 RTL.
It was repaired for no cost under the TSB.
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From my understanding the NHTSA listed technical service bulletins (TSB) were indications of failures the manufacturer had identified due to complaints from owners that don't materially effect vehicle safety, otherwise it would be a recall.
Manufacturers are only obliged to fix the technical bulletin issues under warranty, though some may choose to do so outside of warranty, cynically if the issue is large enough and public enough to likely cause a significant drop in sales.
Therefore your extended warranty should cover it and you will unfortunately be on the hook for the deductible. However, you might want to enquire as to if the warranty company was successful in recovering the cost from BRP, and if so, give you your $50 back as a courtesy.
Some TSB actions are trivial and the dealer often does them for free, even if they are not obliged to, especially if they are already performing some level of billed services.
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