Anyone else's Shift Linkage keep falling off? Any solutions?

[GeorgeHanson]

I have a 2013 ST Limited. The shift linkage where it connects to the splined shaft has literally fallen off my bike four times! I even had a dealer fix it but it's a recurring issue. Has anyone had this happen? If so, what could be done for a permanent solution.

[Gwolf]

Yeah, used to have that problem with an old Harley Sportster. Shifter got loose and wouldn't stay on the shaft. I took the bolt out of it, and sawed one kerf wide with a hacksaw to let it close up tighter. Put the shifter back on the shaft, tightened down the bolt. Then drilled a hole through the shifter and shaft about 90 degrees from where the bolt goes. Drove a roll pin in it, and it never came off again unless I wanted it too.

[Peter Aawen]

Hi George, I see you've been around for a while, but Welcome to finally posting!

That shift linkage issue you've got isn't all that uncommon, and the answer often isn't just 'put it back on & tighten the screw on the linkage', which is probably what you've been doing so far?!

So if you type 'shift linkage' into the Search field up toward the Top Right of the page (just under the Lamonster Garage logo ) then click on 'Search Titles Only' in the drop down list below that before clicking on the Magnifying Glass to submit the Search, you'll get to see quite a few helpful threads on the subject on the results page. It always pays to Search & check out what's already here.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I have a 2013 ST Limited. The shift linkage where it connects to the splined shaft has literally fallen off my bike four times! I even had a dealer fix it but it's a recurring issue. Has anyone had this happen? If so, what could be done for a permanent solution.

Ah yes. The old shift arm falling off of a SE5 trick. First, buy yourself a new shift arm and throw the other one away. Then drill out the threads of the new shift arm. Don't make the hole any larger, just drill out the threads. Get an M6X30 metric bolt and nut. I used a SS flanged bolt and nut. Inspect the shaft splines for any buildup of shavings. Clean out with a small wire brush. Install the new shift arm - the dot on the end of the shaft lines up with the slot in the arm - put the bolt all of the way through the new arm, and tighten down the nut. Torque it to "plenty tight". 60 minute project max. It will never come off again.

[Bfromla]

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Ya does happen. 1/2 the splines disappear & usually at worst times. Additionally (my particular case anyway) O-rings failed on SE & would leak oil into arm boot, then randomly dump various parking locations.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ranny-heads-up
What part of TX neighbor?

[GeorgeHanson]

Bfromla,I live in Spring.

Snowbelt Spyder, your repair idea looks great. Thanks for including the picture. I am going to repair mine just as you did.

[GeorgeHanson]

I repaired my shift arm tonite using your recommendations to use the M6x30 bolt and nut. I tightened it very well. The bolt didn't squeeze the shift arm down tighter on the shaft but it did fit well with the groove in the shaft. It was too late for a test ride so I'll try it out tomorrow. I will let you know how it works for me.

[Mikey]

If after tightening the bolt tight, you are still loose on the shaft, maybe it's time for a new arm! Are the splines good on the arm? That arm should not wobble on the shaft!

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I repaired my shift arm tonite using your recommendations to use the M6x30 bolt and nut. I tightened it very well. The bolt didn't squeeze the shift arm down tighter on the shaft but it did fit well with the groove in the shaft. It was too late for a test ride so I'll try it out tomorrow. I will let you know how it works for me.

If after tightening the bolt tight, you are still loose on the shaft, maybe it's time for a new arm! Are the splines good on the arm? That arm should not wobble on the shaft!

Hey George. Yes there are two keys to this fix. Use a brand new arm. The old one is already worn out inside. And just to review in case it was overlooked, You drill out the threads that are in the arm itself so that the bolt passes cleanly through. Don’t make the bolt hole any bigger, just clear out the threads. The bolt and nut do all of the tightening / squeezing. Something about the difference in leverage or surface area. Heck, I had barely put any torque on mine at all, and it was tighter than the OEM setup ever was. Once it was good and tightened down it was on there rock solid. If yours is still flopping around, it will just fail again someday.

[GeorgeHanson]

Thanks. I will. I'm a novice at forums.

[msherwood]

I think my linkage may have failed yesterday at the worst time, commuter traffic, where is the shift linkage located maybe a phot would help me out

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I think my linkage may have failed yesterday at the worst time, commuter traffic, where is the shift linkage located maybe a phot would help me out

You haven't told us what transmission you have .... I see it's a 13 RT LTD. .... If you have an SE Trans. you don't have "SHIFT LINKAGE " of the outside of the case ..... so why do you think it failed ..... Mike

[Bfromla]

I think my linkage may have failed yesterday at the worst time, commuter traffic, where is the shift linkage located maybe a phot would help me out

Likely the shift arm.(soft metals) Will be lower LH side (sitting on bike) Maybe even visible from underneath

[pegasus1300]

2 things on the shift arm repair. 1 use a new one. The used one won't last. They are about $35.00. 2 going straight up from the slot I cut all the way thru so now my lever has room to compress. I can't really see it compress, but it is a lot tighter.

[msherwood]

While coming home from work it would not shift up or down automatically or manually, it is now stuck in 5th gear according to the gauge cluster.

[pegasus1300]

Since you have a 2013, my guess would be that the splines have striped out on your shift lever. Get it home as best you can and order a new one (about $35). Then do as Snowbelt describes in post #9 and I describe in #14. You can try to tighten the bolt some more right now just to get it into neutral. That may or may not work, I have had it go both ways. The only permanent fix is to do as post # 9 suggests. Oh, and be sure to put a wrench on that bolt every so often............. just in case.

[msherwood]

What is the trick to get the connecting rod off of the Shift arm?

[pegasus1300]

I have no idea. I take a 10mm wrench ( maybe it's a 12) and unscrew the tab while attached to the rod. Just be careful not to cross thread it when putting it back.

[Jetfixer]

Can anyone provide the part number for that shift arm? It sure sounds like what has failed on a friends' 2013 ST yesterday. I've looked on the parts diagrams and am having trouble locating the arm...

[Mikey]

Gear Shift Lever
420257881 I see why you had trouble it was a search to find

[msherwood]

Is there a trick to attaching the ball joint/pin back on to the shift arm?

[pegasus1300]

Is there a trick to attaching the ball joint/pin back on to the shift arm?

Just patience and making sure you are square with the shift arm. I have had to lay on my back and look up at it to get it started before. I always start mine by hand and make sure it screws in a few turns before putting a wrench to it. The main thing is patience.

[msherwood]

What about the very small pin that attaches to the ball joint?

[pegasus1300]

What about the very small pin that attaches to the ball joint?

well I thought that was what I was addressing in #22, but if not I am not sure I know what you are asking.

[Bfromla]

Bump as mine went out again! First 1 at 60k 2 only 16k later. Daily but casual & laid back riding- no hot dogging crazy stuff. Admittedly do not manually downshift. Should have part by Tuesday will have pics then.