Are these torque specs for rear axle, rotor, & calipers correct?

[SLICE]

Rear axle 160 FT Lbs.

Rear rotor bolts 35 FT Lbs.

Caliper ?

Thanks Stephan.

Rear tire tomorrow in 90° heat wish me luck.

[Mikey]

Good Luck!!! Trailer it to Maine, it's cooler but I am getting ready to build a ark! I've got moss on my moss!

[Little Blue]

Good Luck

...Well I am sending 'good luck' and a Wow. I would love to be able to change over my rear tire to something better. ....

[Gwolf]

Don't know RT

Got book on 2019 F3-S it say:

Axle nut = 166 ftlb +- 11
Speed Sensor = 71 inlb +-9
Caliper = 77 ftlb +-4
Disk= 63 ftlb +-2

If you find a book the brakes are listed in chassis section.

The search funtion for the shop manual sucks.


just my opinion------ 35 ftlb sounds a little light for a brake disk torque.


90 degrees is nice and cool when you got a swamp cooler and a shop fan that sounds like a Skyraider winding up for a short takeoff run.

[SkipH]

Oh man, now you gone and done it!
It's POUND FEET not Foot pounds!
I don't know who in h*ll changed that, Probably some idiot like the idiot who changed frequency to hertz...

[hypurone]

Rear axle 160 FT Lbs.

Rear rotor bolts 35 FT Lbs.

Caliper ?

Thanks Stephan.

Rear tire tomorrow in 90° heat wish me luck.

BE CAREFUL with those rotor bolts!! They have a ****load of yellow loctite on them and will strip fairly easily! You will have better luck with an impact driver to loosen them than a ratchet... May even need some heat...

[Isopedella]

Im doing a rear tyre swap out. When I find that roundtuit. Maybe today. Probably.

I was thinking I wouldn't remove the disc, but remove the whole disc tower / mount in 1 bit. 5 bolts.
It has to come out anyway.

[javajaws]

BE CAREFUL with those rotor bolts!! They have a ****load of yellow loctite on them and will strip fairly easily! You will have better luck with an impact driver to loosen them than a ratchet... May even need some heat...

LOL I did exactly this earlier today. Started with a 18" breaker bar and said screw this. Broke out the 1/2" pneumatic impact and took those 5 rotor bolts off in a few seconds.

[Isopedella]

BE CAREFUL with those rotor bolts!! They have a ****load of yellow loctite on them and will strip fairly easily! You will have better luck with an impact driver to loosen them than a ratchet... May even need some heat...

Well, I found that roundtuit after 4 months or so.
I was looking at the belt alignment after a new front pulley was fitted and decided, OK, while I'm here...
Tools out. Ass in the air... Belt off. OK. Rear wheel off for that new tyre sitting over there.,

Took off the disc assembly in the end.
Applied heat to the bolt head. Then a good 6-point socket. Man, that's tight!

More heat, then a rattle gun/impact driver got 'em loose. Lots of yellow goo on them.
See, I will use a rattle gun, but only when I have to.

Cleaned out the threads with a tap, wire brushed the bolts, re-assembled with 243 thread locker, and torqued.
Bearing check while I'm here, why not? I roll 'em around with finger, nice 'n smooth. Good to go.

Had a look at the brake pads while the caliper was removed.
Didn't immediately think new brake pads when I had a squiz, worn with a few miles left if I left 'em.
You guessed it. Aw hell, in went the new ones. After a Caliper clean and service, lubed the slider pins. yada ya.

That piston that needs rewinding.
Went back ok, took some serious pressure, but I was sort of expecting it wouldn't just slide like rice on silk. 1/2 a dozen breaths and firm grip with some stout needle nose pliers inserted, pushed and turned nicely all the way.

Iso

[seaweed]

Well, I found that roundtuit after 4 months or so.
I was looking at the belt alignment after a new front pulley was fitted and decided, OK, while I'm here...
Tools out. Ass in the air... Belt off. OK. Rear wheel off for that new tyre sitting over there.,

Took off the disc assembly in the end.
Applied heat to the bolt heas. Then a good 6-point socket. Man, that's tight!

More heat, then a rattle gun/impact driver got 'em loose. Lots of yellow goo on them.
See, I will use a rattle gun, but only when I have to.

Cleaned out the threads with a tap, wire brushed the bolts, re-assembled with 243 thread locker, and torqued.
Bearing check while I'm here, why not? I roll 'em around with finger, nice 'n smooth. Good to go.

Had a look at the brake pads while the caliper was removed.
Didn't immediately think new brake pads when I had a squiz, worn with a few miles left if I left 'em.
You guessed it. Aw hell, in went the new ones. After a Caliper clean and service, lubed the slider pins. yada ya.

That piston that needs rewinding.
Went back ok, took some serious pressure, but I was sort of expecting it wouldn't just slide like rice on silk. 1/2 a dozen breaths and firm grip with some stout needle nose pliers inserted, pushed and turned nicely all the way.

Iso

Here is a "roundtuit" for you. 20231113_104110.jpg Handmade!

[mandytuning]

Slice, I thought you got rid of your Spyder?

[Woodaddict]

Slice, I thought you got rid of your Spyder?

He DID....he started thread on July 2nd, he hasn't posted since on this thread

[Isopedella]

Yes he did. Had a Gutsfull of these Spyders I reckon. Moved on while he was able. Good on em.

But the info is good for those doing this job and remains good info.
Those retaining bolts bolts are easily damaged and a process was posted on how to remove them.
I have just done this, and its good info.

Just because a Bloke has moved on dosnt make this thread U/S. !!! And no longer relevant.

Im doing a rear tyre swap out. When I find that roundtuit. Maybe today. Probably..

LOL I did exactly this earlier today. Started with a 18" breaker bar and said screw this. Broke out the 1/2" pneumatic impact and took those 5 rotor bolts off in a few seconds.

[Peter Aawen]

Slice, I thought you got rid of your Spyder?

Didja check the date of Slice's last post in this thread Mandy?? Doesn't really matter WHO's thread it is, but you really should check the original, AND check the dates/detail on the latest FEW posts in the thread too - cos if I've got it right, then as others have suggested, Slice's last post here was back in July this year, a little before he introduced us to his Spyder's replacement, Kashmir, which he did in August this year.

The thread has simply popped back up as others have followed on with THEIR discussions in this thread that grew out of Slice's initial question.

[BamaJohn]

Well, I found that roundtuit after 4 months or so.
I was looking at the belt alignment after a new front pulley was fitted and decided, OK, while I'm here...
Tools out. Ass in the air... Belt off. OK. Rear wheel off for that new tyre sitting over there.,

Took off the disc assembly in the end.
Applied heat to the bolt heat. Then a good 6-point socket. Man, that's tight!

More heat, then a rattle gun/impact driver got 'em loose. Lots of yellow goo on them.
See, I will use a rattle gun, but only when I have to.

Cleaned out the threads with a tap, wire brushed the bolts, re-assembled with 243 thread locker, and torqued.
Bearing check while I'm here, why not? I roll 'em around with finger, nice 'n smooth. Good to go.

Had a look at the brake pads while the caliper was removed.
Didn't immediately think new brake pads when I had a squiz, worn with a few miles left if I left 'em.
You guessed it. Aw hell, in went the new ones. After a Caliper clean and service, lubed the slider pins. yada ya.

That piston that needs rewinding.
Went back ok, took some serious pressure, but I was sort of expecting it wouldn't just slide like rice on silk. 1/2 a dozen breaths and firm grip with some stout needle nose pliers inserted, pushed and turned nicely all the way.

Iso

Good stuff ISO....removing the rear wheel on a Spyder RT is MUUUUCH more difficult than on my BMW RT! but once the learning curve is done, it's not so bad.