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  1. #1
    Very Active Member SLICE's Avatar
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    Default Are these torque specs for rear axle, rotor, & calipers correct?

    Rear axle 160 FT Lbs.

    Rear rotor bolts 35 FT Lbs.

    Caliper ?

    Thanks Stephan.

    Rear tire tomorrow in 90 heat wish me luck.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Good Luck!!! Trailer it to Maine, it's cooler but I am getting ready to build a ark! I've got moss on my moss!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-03-2023 at 05:31 AM. Reason: arch... 8-)
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  3. #3
    SpyderLovers Ambassador Little Blue's Avatar
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    Good Luck

    ...Well I am sending 'good luck' and a Wow. I would love to be able to change over my rear tire to something better. ....
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-03-2023 at 05:39 AM. Reason: Moved Post title into text - many won't see post titles, only Thread Titles, & they mess up Searching! ;-)
    ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
    Ryde with a Friend and be Safe

    My Spyder .....'Little Blue-Boy'
    2016 RT Limited , Orbital Blue

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    Don't know RT

    Got book on 2019 F3-S it say:

    Axle nut = 166 ftlb +- 11
    Speed Sensor = 71 inlb +-9
    Caliper = 77 ftlb +-4
    Disk= 63 ftlb +-2

    If you find a book the brakes are listed in chassis section.

    The search funtion for the shop manual sucks.


    just my opinion------ 35 ftlb sounds a little light for a brake disk torque.


    90 degrees is nice and cool when you got a swamp cooler and a shop fan that sounds like a Skyraider winding up for a short takeoff run.
    Last edited by Gwolf; 07-03-2023 at 06:21 AM.
    2019 F3-S , Black & Silver

  5. #5
    Active Member SkipH's Avatar
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    Oh man, now you gone and done it!
    It's POUND FEET not Foot pounds!
    I don't know who in h*ll changed that, Probably some idiot like the idiot who changed frequency to hertz...


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  6. #6
    Very Active Member hypurone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLICE View Post
    Rear axle 160 FT Lbs.

    Rear rotor bolts 35 FT Lbs.

    Caliper ?

    Thanks Stephan.

    Rear tire tomorrow in 90 heat wish me luck.
    BE CAREFUL with those rotor bolts!! They have a ****load of yellow loctite on them and will strip fairly easily! You will have better luck with an impact driver to loosen them than a ratchet... May even need some heat...

    '15 F3-S Pure Magnesium Metallic - Mad Max Edition
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    2015 F3-S , Pure Magnesium Metallic/Steel Black Metallic

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Isopedella's Avatar
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    Im doing a rear tyre swap out. When I find that roundtuit. Maybe today. Probably.

    I was thinking I wouldn't remove the disc, but remove the whole disc tower / mount in 1 bit. 5 bolts.
    It has to come out anyway.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hypurone View Post
    BE CAREFUL with those rotor bolts!! They have a ****load of yellow loctite on them and will strip fairly easily! You will have better luck with an impact driver to loosen them than a ratchet... May even need some heat...

    LOL I did exactly this earlier today. Started with a 18" breaker bar and said screw this. Broke out the 1/2" pneumatic impact and took those 5 rotor bolts off in a few seconds.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Isopedella's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hypurone View Post
    BE CAREFUL with those rotor bolts!! They have a ****load of yellow loctite on them and will strip fairly easily! You will have better luck with an impact driver to loosen them than a ratchet... May even need some heat...

    Well, I found that roundtuit after 4 months or so.
    I was looking at the belt alignment after a new front pulley was fitted and decided, OK, while I'm here...
    Tools out. Ass in the air... Belt off. OK. Rear wheel off for that new tyre sitting over there.,

    Took off the disc assembly in the end.
    Applied heat to the bolt head. Then a good 6-point socket. Man, that's tight!

    More heat, then a rattle gun/impact driver got 'em loose. Lots of yellow goo on them.
    See, I will use a rattle gun, but only when I have to.

    Cleaned out the threads with a tap, wire brushed the bolts, re-assembled with 243 thread locker, and torqued.
    Bearing check while I'm here, why not? I roll 'em around with finger, nice 'n smooth. Good to go.

    Had a look at the brake pads while the caliper was removed.
    Didn't immediately think new brake pads when I had a squiz, worn with a few miles left if I left 'em.
    You guessed it. Aw hell, in went the new ones. After a Caliper clean and service, lubed the slider pins. yada ya.

    That piston that needs rewinding.
    Went back ok, took some serious pressure, but I was sort of expecting it wouldn't just slide like rice on silk. 1/2 a dozen breaths and firm grip with some stout needle nose pliers inserted, pushed and turned nicely all the way.

    Iso
    Last edited by Isopedella; 11-14-2023 at 09:36 AM.

  10. #10
    Active Member seaweed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Isopedella View Post
    Well, I found that roundtuit after 4 months or so.
    I was looking at the belt alignment after a new front pulley was fitted and decided, OK, while I'm here...
    Tools out. Ass in the air... Belt off. OK. Rear wheel off for that new tyre sitting over there.,

    Took off the disc assembly in the end.
    Applied heat to the bolt heas. Then a good 6-point socket. Man, that's tight!

    More heat, then a rattle gun/impact driver got 'em loose. Lots of yellow goo on them.
    See, I will use a rattle gun, but only when I have to.

    Cleaned out the threads with a tap, wire brushed the bolts, re-assembled with 243 thread locker, and torqued.
    Bearing check while I'm here, why not? I roll 'em around with finger, nice 'n smooth. Good to go.

    Had a look at the brake pads while the caliper was removed.
    Didn't immediately think new brake pads when I had a squiz, worn with a few miles left if I left 'em.
    You guessed it. Aw hell, in went the new ones. After a Caliper clean and service, lubed the slider pins. yada ya.

    That piston that needs rewinding.
    Went back ok, took some serious pressure, but I was sort of expecting it wouldn't just slide like rice on silk. 1/2 a dozen breaths and firm grip with some stout needle nose pliers inserted, pushed and turned nicely all the way.

    Iso
    Here is a "roundtuit" for you. 20231113_104110.jpg Handmade!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-13-2023 at 07:48 PM. Reason: Fixed quote display ;-)

    Dean Secord AKA seaweed
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  11. #11
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    Slice, I thought you got rid of your Spyder?
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-13-2023 at 09:14 PM.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Woodaddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mandytuning View Post
    Slice, I thought you got rid of your Spyder?
    He DID....he started thread on July 2nd, he hasn't posted since on this thread
    2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400



  13. #13
    Very Active Member Isopedella's Avatar
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    Yes he did. Had a Gutsfull of these Spyders I reckon. Moved on while he was able. Good on em.

    But the info is good for those doing this job and remains good info.
    Those retaining bolts bolts are easily damaged and a process was posted on how to remove them.
    I have just done this, and its good info.

    Just because a Bloke has moved on dosnt make this thread U/S. !!! And no longer relevant.
    Quote Originally Posted by Isopedella View Post
    Im doing a rear tyre swap out. When I find that roundtuit. Maybe today. Probably..
    Quote Originally Posted by javajaws View Post
    LOL I did exactly this earlier today. Started with a 18" breaker bar and said screw this. Broke out the 1/2" pneumatic impact and took those 5 rotor bolts off in a few seconds.
    Last edited by Isopedella; 11-13-2023 at 11:47 PM.

  14. #14
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mandytuning View Post
    Slice, I thought you got rid of your Spyder?
    Didja check the date of Slice's last post in this thread Mandy?? Doesn't really matter WHO's thread it is, but you really should check the original, AND check the dates/detail on the latest FEW posts in the thread too - cos if I've got it right, then as others have suggested, Slice's last post here was back in July this year, a little before he introduced us to his Spyder's replacement, Kashmir, which he did in August this year.

    The thread has simply popped back up as others have followed on with THEIR discussions in this thread that grew out of Slice's initial question.
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  15. #15
    Active Member BamaJohn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Isopedella View Post
    Well, I found that roundtuit after 4 months or so.
    I was looking at the belt alignment after a new front pulley was fitted and decided, OK, while I'm here...
    Tools out. Ass in the air... Belt off. OK. Rear wheel off for that new tyre sitting over there.,

    Took off the disc assembly in the end.
    Applied heat to the bolt heat. Then a good 6-point socket. Man, that's tight!

    More heat, then a rattle gun/impact driver got 'em loose. Lots of yellow goo on them.
    See, I will use a rattle gun, but only when I have to.

    Cleaned out the threads with a tap, wire brushed the bolts, re-assembled with 243 thread locker, and torqued.
    Bearing check while I'm here, why not? I roll 'em around with finger, nice 'n smooth. Good to go.

    Had a look at the brake pads while the caliper was removed.
    Didn't immediately think new brake pads when I had a squiz, worn with a few miles left if I left 'em.
    You guessed it. Aw hell, in went the new ones. After a Caliper clean and service, lubed the slider pins. yada ya.

    That piston that needs rewinding.
    Went back ok, took some serious pressure, but I was sort of expecting it wouldn't just slide like rice on silk. 1/2 a dozen breaths and firm grip with some stout needle nose pliers inserted, pushed and turned nicely all the way.

    Iso
    Good stuff ISO....removing the rear wheel on a Spyder RT is MUUUUCH more difficult than on my BMW RT! but once the learning curve is done, it's not so bad.
    John B.
    Current ride: 2020 Spyder RT-s Petrol Metallic Blue dark with OEM top case

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