Here are the things I do not like about these setups.
They usually look more convenient than they actually are.
They can hang down lower than is a good idea on a motorcycle like the Spyder. (Though this one appears it might be OK)
They usually have a slow, restricted flow rate. You want a good, fast flow to remove heavier particles and get a good flush.
When they have a magnetic tip, you have to pull the plug to see and clean it. Which defeats the entire reason for the setup in the first place.
Answers: 1) yes, the brake rod is in the way. IF you have a long 6mm allen socket you may be able to get it out.
2) yes it's soft. I stripped the allen plug (not the torx) because my short allen socket would not seat fully in the plug
3) I prefer the replacement Show Chrome hex head plugs sold by Lamonster. Only $20 for both plugs including the correct o-rings and seals.
I think my drain plug was way over tightened by the dealer during the 3,000 mile oil change. I had to hammer and cold chisel the plug out and was concerned that I might crack the aluminum case.
2021 Spyder RTL chalk/black/chrome bought in March 21. Previous rides: 2019 Spyder RTL, Orange/chrome. 2015 Harley Heritage, 2002 Harley Heritage, 77 Harley Electra Glide, 75 Harley Electra Glide, 72 Harley Sportster (first bike bought new)
My Spyder Mods
Rider backrest, F&R cup holders; F3 handlebars; BRP LED driving light; LaMonster front fender and mirror turn signals, LaMonster Saddlebag lights, Auxito LED rear turn signal blubs w/ built in load resistor; Brake lite modulator/flasher; LaMonster flags on trunk; Garmin Zumo XT. LaMonster Bluetooth adapter for Phone & GPS through Spyder speakers. LaMonster floorboard risers; FOBO tire pressure monitors, Vredestein front and rear tires; BajaRon sway bar.
Here are the things I do not like about these setups.
They usually look more convenient than they actually are.
They can hang down lower than is a good idea on a motorcycle like the Spyder. (Though this one appears it might be OK)
They usually have a slow, restricted flow rate. You want a good, fast flow to remove heavier particles and get a good flush.
When they have a magnetic tip, you have to pull the plug to see and clean it. Which defeats the entire reason for the setup in the first place.
If you get one, let us know how you like it.
Agree with all your points...
I just did my first oil change and got oil all over my floor from the splash (surprisingly a lot)...
Not sure if the order I did it had anything to do with the excessive splash.
I started with the engine oil plug(torx), then the transmission (allen), and then the filter although I forgot to remove the oil stick.
Also noticed the allen plug being excessively tight (I assume from the factory, since I think the previous owner never got to do an oil change).
The long side of my allen key was flexing a lot, my allen socket or the short side of the key would not fit all the way due to the brake spring being in the middle...
I got it out by using the short side and tapping it with a hammer, but I do not feel comfortable reusing it, so I was looking for better options.
I was hoping the valve in the link would help with the splashing and do away with the whole allen key thing....
I ordered it already, but after the responses here, I'm not sure I'm going to use it, especially being almost 50 bucks....
Other than price, any reason to go with chrome over stainless steel?
I did not have to go to the point to chisel it out, but I had to hammer the key in to get it out, so the condition of the allen hole in the plug is not optimal.
I do not want to risk completely rounding it next oil change...
I use a similar drain plug on my truck. I would NOT use this style (or the one I have on my truck which uses a ball valve) on my 1330 engine. These rotax engines leave metal shavings that you will clean off of the drain plug. You probably will be shocked how much shavings will be on the drain plug the first few oil changes. Should one of these shavings get "stuck" in the valve you have created a leak which might not be fixable. And under worse case the oil leaks out and your engine is fried. I have around 34,000 miles on my F3 with the same engine as yours and would not risk it because I still have a few shaving on the drain plug at each oil change. Don't forget you have two drain plugs on this engine. It is a bit messy (hint purchase a box of rubber gloves and lay a large piece of cardboard on the floor to catch spilled or splashed oil). I have used these style valves for about 10 years on three different cars and trucks and really like not getting my hands so oilly, even though it takes longer to drain, but I will not take the risk of an oil leak permenantly damaging my engine.
just my 2 cents
I just did my first oil change and got oil all over my floor from the splash (surprisingly a lot)...
Not sure if the order I did it had anything to do with the excessive splash.
I started with the engine oil plug(torx), then the transmission (allen), and then the filter although I forgot to remove the oil stick.
Also noticed the allen plug being excessively tight (I assume from the factory, since I think the previous owner never got to do an oil change).
The long side of my allen key was flexing a lot, my allen socket or the short side of the key would not fit all the way due to the brake spring being in the middle...
I got it out by using the short side and tapping it with a hammer, but I do not feel comfortable reusing it, so I was looking for better options.
I was hoping the valve in the link would help with the splashing and do away with the whole allen key thing....
I ordered it already, but after the responses here, I'm not sure I'm going to use it, especially being almost 50 bucks....
I think the Amazon plug is a better fit for your Spyder.
If you do not pull the plastic splash guards, it's definitely a mess. We get Spyders in all the time with a great deal of oil (and attracted dirt, etc.) in the shop all the time because splash guards were not removed for the drain. I know the manual says you can do it through the drain hole. But it is not a very good, or clean way to go.
The Show Chrome plugs are not Chrome. It's just their business name. They are actually zinc plated steel.
I agree with many of the posters here.
Lamonster's oil plugs are a very good approach. Hex head is the way to go.
If you buy the BRP oil change kit, it comes with all the crush washers and o-rings you need.
BajaRon is, as usual, correct. With the DEEFIL plug, you still have to remove the plug to inspect and clean the magnet.
In terms of keeping the oil change as clean as possible, you must take off one of the lower plastic covers.
I use this to collect the used oil.
After you have the CORRECT socket for the plug ( I'm sure they are still different from each other ) ..... set your Rachet for REMOVE ..... then put the socket on/in the plug and give a few good TAPS to break the Varnish Seal free ..... good luck ... Mike, PS., DO NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH TO TIGHTEN ..... just make it hand tight, if it leaks just tighten a bit more
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 06-23-2023 at 01:08 PM.
YES!!!!! have not owned a bike before and being my first oil change, I was REALLY surprised at the number of shavings (on the at the shift box....
since they were really tiny and I believe it was the very first oil change on the bike at all, I convinced myself to wait til the next one to get concerned.
Note to self: remove the plastic splash guard next oil change!
LOL..
Coming from the saltwater boating world, I have a really hard time buying any type of bolt of metal fastener that is not in Stainless Steel....
Will have to get used to...LOL
Note to self: remove the plastic splash guard next oil change!
LOL..
Coming from the saltwater boating world, I have a really hard time buying any type of bolt of metal fastener that is not in Stainless Steel....
Will have to get used to...LOL
'
A few minutes with a Dremel tool to open up the holes around both drain plugs really helps.........
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
Doing my first oil change and I have some questions for the more experienced guys...
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by emudryj
PS., DO NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH TO TIGHTEN ..... just make it hand tight, if it leaks just tighten a bit more
