What's needed to compress the Rear Brake Caliper Piston on 2012 RT?

[Knipper]

Can someone please help. I went to change pads on my 2012 Can-Am Spyder RT and I could not compress the piston. I tried using a C-clamp, when that did not work, I used a rag and vice grips and turned the piston, then it did compress, but I decided to double-check, so I released the piston and sprayed some lubricant on the piston, thinking that it would help to compress the piston, but now it will not compress with C-clamp no matter how hard I try. I was informed to try the rear brake caliper tool, which I order and will give it a try. If that does not work, does anyone know where I can get a used or new caliper? I checked the Can-Am parts store, and they want $619, then l looked on ebay and found nothing for a 2012 Can-Am RT Limited. Plus, I do have a Brake Failure warning, and I am thinking that if the caliper is frozen that would be by issue. I have changed out several brake pads and never ever had an issue using a C-clamp to compress the piston until now. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Haze]

See the following thread.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ton%2Brotation

[spyderdave]

I believe the piston in the rear caliper is ROTATED back into the caliper for pad replacement, not compressed; you may have damaged it by using a C-clamp to force it.

You may want to consider replacing the caliper.

[Mikey]

On the 2012 it just pushes back in, not like the Brembo! Make sure that the Pbrake cable is loose or taken right off the caliper, and a c clamp should easily push that piston back in! That piston will not be absolutely flush with the housing when done, but you should see it go in. I just did two 2012 brake jobs. Good luck

[BajaRon]

2008-2012 used Chinese manufactured brake components. Can-Am moved to the Brembo system in 2013. The rear caliper on the Brembo system needs to be rotated. However, the caliper tool will do you no good as your rear piston just compresses into the caliper. I recommend leaving the old brake pad in place and using a C-Clamp. Make sure it is centered so you get even pressure all the way around the piston.

If you get the piston cocked it may jam. This may be your issue. I would suggest re-installing the caliper, start the bike and use the brake to try and get movement from the piston. You can also do the same thing by inserting something between the pads that is about the same or just a bit thinner than the rotor. You want to avoid pushing the piston out of the caliper. This will bring a whole new set of issues.

If you go the used caliper route. I believe that any 2008-2012 Spyder rear caliper will work. Certainly all 2010-2012 will. The factory kit comes with a number of things you won't need. My feeling is that the caliper itself is the same from 2008-2012 all models. Part numbers are different because of the various accessories attached to the caliper which you already have.

Good luck!

[Knipper]

Yes, i did confirm this one is pushed in, the Emergency brake cable is not attached, and js the still cannot compress the piston, I bought a brake tool, but the issue is the piston is out fo far and the tool will not work. No worries I have a good friend who is a good mechanic he is going to try and help me out he the piston is off-center, and is being jammed. IF that's not the case I will replace the caliper thanks for all the help.

[safecracker]

Keep us posted

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Yes, i did confirm this one is pushed in, the Emergency brake cable is not attached, and js the still cannot compress the piston, I bought a brake tool, but the issue is the piston is out fo far and the tool will not work. No worries I have a good friend who is a good mechanic he is going to try and help me out he the piston is off-center, and is being jammed. IF that's not the case I will replace the caliper thanks for all the help.

- Yes, the 2012 caliper is pushed in.
- Along with removing the p-brake cable, you also need to remove the p-brake rear pulley, because previous cable adjustments may have re-positioned it to a different position on the shaft.
- Then once the pulley is removed, fully rotate the p-brake shaft, by hand, fully CCW until it stops. No, it won't come out.
- Now try to compress the piston. With the p-brake shaft fully retracted, that will allow the caliper piston to retract. It doesn't need to move much, and won't. Even when fully retracted, the piston will not be PERFECTLY flush with the caliper. Nor does it need to be.
- Keep in mind, that with brand new pads, you'll have very little clearance and have to align the caliper just right. When you do, it will just slide right onto the disc.
- Now re-assemble the caliper, rear p-brake pulley, cable, and adjust the cable per the manual. Don't forget to hook the spring that is inside the rear of the p-brake pulley.

The brake failure warning that you have is probably because you tripped the low pressure switch while doing this job. Happens all the time because people turn on the key before the system has been pumped up firm with the pedal. Or it's just that brake fluid is a little low.

Pull up the code. If it is C0049, add fluid. If it is C1282, then after you have it all back together, and even ride it around a bit and ensure it feels good and firm, perform the following:

- Turn on the key and let the cluster boot up. Hit the Mode button just to be sure.
- Depress the brake pedal HARD with your right foot and keep pressing HARD.
- While continuing to press HARD, turn off the key.
- Continue to depress HARD for at least 30 seconds until the Spyder computers fully shutdown.
- Keep your fingers crossed. Release the brake pedal and turn on the key. See if the brake failure has cleared.
- Repeat as required.

[pegasus1300]

As usual Doug your explanations are clear, concise, and correct. Thank you from all us pre- 3cycl. owners.