Parking Brake light stays on - is the brake module failing... again?
I have 2015 RTL, 3 years ago I had to replace the parking brake module. This week I began having another issue with the parking brake. When I turn it off, the red light stays on. The brake releases but the light stays on. When I reset the parking brake and remove the key I get the beeping to tell me the brake is not set but it is actually set. Does this mean the brake module is going out again or is there another cause?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-23-2023 at 02:52 PM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly ask the question... ;-)
2015 Can Am Spyder RT Limited
Magic Mirrors
Short Antenna
LaMonster Dual Power Plate
LED Headlights
LED Fog lights
Vibration Damper
Spyclops
Spyclops II
Utopia Back Rest
I have 2015 RTL, 3 years ago I had to replace the parking brake module. This week I began having another issue with the parking brake. When I turn it off, the red light stays on. The brake releases but the light stays on. When I reset the parking brake and remove the key I get the beeping to tell me the brake is not set but it is actually set. Does this mean the brake module is going out again or is there another cause?
More than likely, because you are getting the beeping. then the micro switch is stuck. See Pics. Clean and lube. And because the light stays on when you release the brake, most likely low fluid level. It needs to be topped off and look very full.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 05-23-2023 at 04:36 PM.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
So if that switch stays in the down position I guess if you released the brake it wouldn't beep with the key removed?
But if it remains in the up position it would?
The whole thing works a little backwards than you might think. Or if you designed it yourself. When you DISENGAGE the brake, the front pulley rotates CCW and depresses the tab actuating the switch. When you ENGAGE the brake, the front pulley rotates CW and releases the tab, de-activating the switch. So, if the switch gets stuck in the depressed position, even though you engage the brake, the switch is still telling the system that the brake is disengaged, because the switch is still actuated. So, you get the beeping. Removing the key is irrelevant. It's turning the key off that triggers it.
On the opposite hand, If the brake light on the dash stays on with the brake disengaged, it is most likely low fluid level. He should also be getting the Brake Failure orange screen if you can catch it. Those reservoirs need to be very full of brake fluid.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 05-23-2023 at 05:29 PM.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
Those reservoirs need to be very full of brake fluid.
But not TOO full! If they're too full you may get a brake failure indication (brake icon with ! light during driving). How do I know these things? My Spyder came topped up -- ALL the way up -- and I got the error. I siphoned out enough fluid to get back to the "max" line and all was well again.
More than likely, because you are getting the beeping. then the micro switch is stuck. See Pics. Clean and lube. And because the light stays on when you release the brake, most likely low fluid level. It needs to be topped off and look very full.
How does one go about replacing the switch. Mine got damage amd needs to be replaced.
2014 RT
Thanks
How does one go about replacing the switch. Mine got damage amd needs to be replaced.
2014 RT
Thanks
If the SWITCH itself is damaged, then sure, replace it.
But in most instances like this that I've seen, it's only been the little shiny spring arm with a roller on the end that's been bent, and with a little care and attention, that can usually be made straight enough to function well without replacement.
It doesn't even need to be 'exactly' straight, just 'straight enough' to get the roller up on the tab & let the (newly cleaned?? ) switch do its thing appropriately! Straightening the arm yourself is a whole lot cheaper and easier than replacing the switch &/or paying someone to do that, IF you can get away with doing it yourself.