Found a Spyder I like - Opinions please?

[shakin_jake]

Weird how the black paint is dull in some areas. Doesn't look like a clear coat issue.

~~~you bought a 5 year old motorbike/trike, I’m sure it wasn’t stored in a museum all 5 of those years. Very few owners are willing to do what it takes to keep the paint/finish looking like new (DAMHIK)

Not that you asked but, have fun with it, 5 year old paint and all that entails. If you keep from tossing it down the road (wrecking it) then your ownership will be a huge success


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while

[blacklightning]

Congrats! Sounds like you want something to really have some spirited fun on. If you decide not to get the ECU tuned, get yourself a pedal commander or a pedal box. You will definitely enjoy the added punch off the line.

[brian10x]

Seems to have quite a bit of power right now. I'm pretty happy with that. This is my first semi-auto trans, though, and it almost feels like the clutch is slipping a little on 1-2 upshifts. I'm trying to rev it a bit higher to more firmly engage the centrifical clutch, if that is the the thing to do. I dunno.

[BertRemington]

The term of art for clutch slippage during shifting is "flare". If flare occurs for the first half dozen shifts on a cool day then you have a potential problem -- those shifts should be smooth and almost imperceptible. After the oil heats and thins you will get a bit more harshness.

Two items to consider: (1) oil change with HCM filter; and (2) check with BUDS owner to see if BRP announced any firmware updates for your F3 and, if so, ensure your F3 has them.

My mitigation is Motul 7100 15W50 for 95K RT because 5W40 oils measurably and noticeably lose viscosity around 3K miles (this loss does NOT harm the engine or transmission). The Motul holds up until my 5K oil change.

The F3 transmission is 6-speed constant mesh with multi-plate pressure*-controlled-engagement clutch with a sophisticated Bosch controller operating spool valves much like a 90s automatic transmission.

Perhaps you are thinking of a centrifugal CVT.

* variably regulated to about twice engine pressure which is limited to 58psi. I believe Monster's firmware modifies line pressure regulation and timing for firmer and faster clutch engagement during shifting.

[brian10x]

The dealer did an oil change right before I bought the bike. I'm going full synthetic in about 500 more miles. You think the transmission filter should be changed? The bike has 9200 miles on it. I like the idea of increased line pressure.

[BertRemington]

Your future actions should be shaped by this guidance

I'm looking to buy the lightest, sportiest, bare bones hot rod I can find.

[BertRemington]

... sportiest ... hot rod ...

First step: If your rear wheel has 3 spokes, you have a "79T" F3 which is lighter but not much sportier than an RT. If your rear wheel has 6 spokes, you have an "89T" F3 which provides better acceleration and perhaps about 10hp more along with a "Sport" mode switch. This is a fundamental starting point.

Second step: Tires -- Brakes -- Suspension

A variety of performance tires have come and gone (eg Toyo) so you need to search this forum and ask performance-oriented members (eg hypurone) what tires they recommend.

Your brake pads and rotors will be EBC. Most members prefer the HH compound. BajaRon is your go-to guy for selection and purchase.

I believe there are only two suspension upgrades. A BajaRon swaybar and shock absorbers. WRT to shock absorbers I suggest searching this forum and then discussing the options with BajaRon before making a purchase.

Third step: Powertrain

Stage 1 or Stage 2 firmware upgrade from Monster/Wick-It combined with catalytic convertor removal and muffler replacement. WRT exhaust, RLS offers great workmanship with great prices.

Fourth step: Driver

Back in my open tracking days, I was repeatedly advised my best two investments were instructor time and track time. And that was correct. I always asked for an available instructor and I was always the last off the track.

Finding a 3-wheel instructor will be a bit more difficult. I would start with your Spyder dealer and then ask ATV/UTV dealers. And then there's the problem of suitable facility/course. Plenty of tracks for cars and motorcycles; don't know any for 3-wheelers.

You will hear people telling you how fast they went on such and such a road thinking nobody else could do better. A road is not a track. Not only is a track safer but it's also the great equalizer. You can't lie on a track. And if you misbehave you will see a Black flag and be spending some facetime with the course marshal.

But it's worth the time, effort and money for training. You will be a better driver and enjoy your Spyder more.

Best wishes. Post pictures.