I have seen a couple of posts about fasteners with BRP’s Loctite being really tough to deal with but had not had any experiences of my own till today when I was attempting to install floorboards on my F3 S.
Removing the rubber foot peg inserts requires removal of 2 12mm bolts on each side. Easy…..right?
Not so fast - these bolts extremely hard to get moving. I was very conscious of not stripping the heads, using the correct size socket and a short ratchet. I got them moving a couple of turns and then the heads snapped off. This happened on both bolts on the left peg.
What’s up with using gobs of strong Loctite and cheap fasteners. It’s a sure fire recipe for a disaster. What should have been a simple half hour job turned into a two hour drama.
Perhaps the Gorilla glue and Loctite got into the wrong packaging…. ��
Last edited by ARtraveler; 05-06-2023 at 06:07 PM.
Reason: "f" bomb removed
2021 Spyder RT Limited (Palm Desert)
Grey - dark edition
Any markings on the top (head) of that bolt to tell what grade it is???? Seems a grade 5 or the metric equivalent of 8.8 should have been used.
Another question----- could you see the color of the locking agent??? BRP loves the yellow stuff.
Lew L
Last edited by Lew L; 05-06-2023 at 03:20 PM.
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
You can heat the head of the bolts that have the yellow locktite with a little soldering mapp gas torch, it will soften the locktite and turn right out.
Yeah, BRP seems to really like that yellow thread lock. I had quite the adventure getting my antenna off to swap it with a shorty. Never knew a single antenna could have so mant pieces.
"A Wise Man Once Said, I Should Ask My Wife."
2017 Champagne Metallic RT-S SE-6 Rivco Dual Flag Holders; Slingmods Highway Pegs; (Hate Them) Airhawk Seat Cushion; Show Chrome Black Touring Rack w/ Risers & Touring Windshield; RAM X Mount For TXTAG; TackForm Phone Mount; Lidlox; Magic Mirror Mounts; Guardian Bells; WOLO "Bad Boy" Air Horn; Dual USB Power Outlet With Voltmeter; 12V outlet for misc. stuff; Spyderpops Full View Mirror Turn Signals; Large Brake Pedal; Kott Grilles; Large Mud Flap; BajaRon 3 Piece Sway Bar, Last But Not Least, Kuhmo Rear Rire, Vedrestien Fronts.
2017 RT-S , Brake pedal extender is twice the size of the stock pedal. Champagne Metallic
I did the same yesterday - mounted the F3 Ultimate floorboards on my 2021 F3 Limited. One side was tight. The other side was VERY VERY tight with plenty of the yellow stuff. I was quite concerned about possibly breaking the bolt. It would make a creaking sound when I did pull on the wrench very hard. Fortunately, they didn't break ... BIG sigh of relief! I put on some blue stuff when replacing. It doesn't seem to grip excessively tight.
_________________________________
GR Horst - Reading, Pennsylvania, U.S.A.
I have seen a couple of posts about fasteners with BRP’s Loctite being really tough to deal with but had not had any experiences of my own till today when I was attempting to install floorboards on my F3 S.
Removing the rubber foot peg inserts requires removal of 2 12mm bolts on each side. Easy…..right?
Not so fast - these bolts extremely hard to get moving. I was very conscious of not stripping the heads, using the correct size socket and a short ratchet. I got them moving a couple of turns and then the heads snapped off. This happened on both bolts on the left peg.
What’s up with using gobs of strong Loctite and cheap fasteners. It’s a sure fire recipe for a disaster. What should have been a simple half hour job turned into a two hour drama.
Perhaps the Gorilla glue and Loctite got into the wrong packaging…. ��
Sorry to hear that, Peter. It certainly sounds like a “Random” amount of thread locker is applied at assembly.
Just out of interest, how did you remove the bolt stubs from the frame?
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
Sorry to hear that, Peter. It certainly sounds like a “Random” amount of thread locker is applied at assembly.
......
I don't think it's "Random" at all, Pete - I reckon it's quite deliberately & with forethought applied in BLOODY EXCESSIVE quantities on just about everything with threads, and in those few places where it doesn't qualify as being quite that much, it still qualifies as being EXCESSIVE!!
If they only applied 'the necessary' amount of their favourite Locktite instead of the bloody excessive amount they use atm, BRP could probably sell us these Spyders at a 20% cheaper price AND STILL make 10% more profit!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-10-2023 at 03:13 PM.
I don't think it's "Random" at all, Pete - I reckon it's quite deliberately & with forethought applied in BLOODY EXCESSIVE quantities on just about everything with threads, and in those few places where it doesn't qualify as being quite that much, it still qualifies as being EXCESSIVE!!
If they only applied 'the necessary' amount of their favourite Locktite instead of the bloody excessive amount they use atm, BRP could probably sell us these Spyders at a 20% cheaper price AND STILL make 10% more profit!
Hahaha…..fair point, Peter……..I only used the word “random” as it is often the case that the boards on one side unbolt “fairly” easily, while the other side shears the bolt head off.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
BRP uses good locktite, and it is a PITA; however, I have found that when you remove a bolt it heats up because of the locktite used. If you stop part way through the bolt removal after the bolt has heated up, then try to continue, you are more apt to break the bolt. I found that once you get the bolt moving, do not stop. If you stop during the removal, leave the bolt alone for a while, let it cool down, then start again.
New bolts are the same, installing the BRP bolts that come with the locktite applied do the same but in reverse.
Just my experience.
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"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
I had a run in with BRP’s infamous Loctite x2
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Originally Posted by PeterKelly
