Limp Home Mode on Start-up - is this normal??

[2to3]

2022 F3L has been on Optimate tender/charger for 90+ days; Stabil in the fuel. A tad under 1100 miles on the bike. Started er up Sat.(started great, no problem)..after about 5 mins. warm-up got the "limp home" message on the screen. Called the service guy at the dealership & of course he said haul it in (close to 100 miles away). Next day I started it up again; limp home message displayed upon start up; never came back on after a 15 min. warm-up. I sure don't remember this limp message displaying last year before I put the bike up for the winter. Question: is this normal or should I take it in to the shop?
Thanks in advance for advice/input.

[Peteoz]

2to3, are there any error codes associated with the Limp mode.

Just in case you don’t know how to get it/them…….before you shut the F3 down, press your thumb dial, scroll down on your screen to Settings then across and right down to Error Codes? (or something similar). That should give an indication of exactly what the F3 thinks its problem is.

Pete

[Jdr00ejr]

Any time you get a Check Engine Light or Limp Mode - there should be an associated Letter and 4 Digit Fault code. Go through your settings (on the new dash bikes) to the "Fault Codes" option - it won't appear if there is no active code. If you can share with us the exact code that it is throwing when in Limp Mode we can assist with further details/diagnostics.

[2to3]

I can't seem to find the fault codes option thru settings. What am I doin' wrong?

[Peteoz]

I can't seem to find the fault codes option thru settings. What am I doin' wrong?

It’s a bit hard to tell you what you are doing wrong when we can’t see what you are doing, 2to3
When you press your joystick button, do you get a list of options on your cluster ?
If yes, push down on your joystick (down, not in), to get to the bottom of that list. It should display the “gear” icon.
Push right on your joystick, which should immediately display a list of settings options like “clock”, “Bluetooth” “display”
Push down (not in) on your joystick until you get to “fault codes”. Press your joystick button to select. Any codes will show.

Pete

[Jdr00ejr]

I can't seem to find the fault codes option thru settings. What am I doin' wrong?

Remember - the "Fault Codes" option will not appear if there is no active fault code.

[2to3]

I'm getting the settings options like “clock”, “Bluetooth” “display” but no codes...so there really isn't a problem??? You think I ought to go ahead & ride to the dealer (100 miles) for a check? I don't want to do some kind of damage; the engine icon in the lower right corner blinks when the "limp home" comes on.

[BertRemington]

Stabil in the fuel.

2to3 -- this is a long shot but can you somehow get a fresh tank of fuel with a fuel injector cleaning additive? I wouldn't use Premium as I think in NM it's more likely to have ethanol for anti-knock. Regular ethanol-free would be best.

[Jdr00ejr]

I'm getting the settings options like “clock”, “Bluetooth” “display” but no codes...so there really isn't a problem??? You think I ought to go ahead & ride to the dealer (100 miles) for a check? I don't want to do some kind of damage; the engine icon in the lower right corner blinks when the "limp home" comes on.

If you aren't seeing "Fault Codes" I'm assuming you also presently aren't displaying "Limp Home". When the "Limp Home is displayed and the Engine Icon is blinking - that's when the "Fault Codes" option should appear in the Settings.

Based on all the information in this thread I, personally, would proceed as follows:

If the Limp Home is not on - I'd ride it for a bit. Take it on a nice long ride and see how it does. If it comes back - pull over - don't shut it off - just go in the Settings and find the code in question. If it doesn't come back on - don't sweat it and enjoy.

If the Limp Home is on - and you still aren't seeing the "Fault Codes" in the Settings - something odd is up. Let's chat further.

SPECULATION ONLY: The Spyders are incredibly temperamental about voltage. Also - being a 22 - it likely is not the "YUASA" battery that has been rock solid in these. Canam was having trouble sourcing YUASA batteries and changed suppliers. I have seen "newer" batteries with a bad cell. So even though it might have been on a tender while "stored" it could still be having voltage issues. I have seen multiple Spyders with bad voltage/battery issues throw a "Limp Home" on initial start-up and then it go away pretty quickly as the stator brings the voltage into "acceptable" parameters. IF this is what is happening to you - it's safe and fine to ride - but the battery will likely get worse and worse and may not start without a jump. Again, just speculation based only on the information at hand at the moment and historical data from my and my customers experiences.

[EdMat]

Won't the menu option Fault Codes show up even if there are no codes present and when you click in it if there are no codes it will be blank?

[Jdr00ejr]

Won't the menu option Fault Codes show up even if there are no codes present and when you click in it if there are no codes it will be blank?

No - at least it didn't use to. It was only visible if there was an active fault code. Maybe that changed with an update or on the newest models - but I'm not aware of that. Same thing on the Rykers - only shows when an active Fault exists.

[Peteoz]

Remember - the "Fault Codes" option will not appear if there is no active fault code.

Joshua, that is incorrect information. Fault Codes is a menu item that will be there whether you have a fault or not. It’s a hard coded menu option. The associated field will show “no active fault codes”, if there are no active issues.
It sounds like 2to3 is seeing the menu items that first appear under Settings (clock, bluetooth, display) and assuming that is all there is. Use your joystick to scroll down further 2to3, then you will find the Fault Codes menu Item.

Pete

[Peteoz]

Won't the menu option Fault Codes show up even if there are no codes present and when you click in it if there are no codes it will be blank?

Yes, that is exactly correct, Ed…….except it won’t be blank

Pete

[Peteoz]

2to3, if my guess is correct, you will be seeing the first photo below when you select the Gear icon. Move across and scroll right down and you should see what appears in the 2nd photo. Select the # Fault Code setting and any active codes will show. If there are no active codes, the screen will display “no fault code active”…….but remember, you MUST look for the codes after you experience Limp Mode and before you turn your Spyder off.

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Pete

[2to3]

OK, I finally found the "fault codes" option...NO codes displayed. Warmed er up (again) for a good 15-20 minutes...nothing, no limp mode display, nada. Don't know whether to laugh or cuss. This is a mystery to me & and a frustration. Gonna take er for a ride when it stops snowing; at least I shouldn't have to tow it to the shop. Mechanic is baffled by this also...
Thanks for all the help; almost seems like whatever the problem was/is has resolved itself???

[Peteoz]

Thanks for all the help; almost seems like whatever the problem was/is has resolved itself???

Maybe, 2to3……..but just remember that if you see it again, get into that fault log before you turn the Spyder off.

Pete

[2to3]

.....Canam was having trouble sourcing YUASA batteries and changed suppliers. I have seen "newer" batteries with a bad cell. So even though it might have been on a tender while "stored" it could still be having voltage issues....

KUDOS to Jdr00ejr Took the bike to the shop & mentioned the possible battery problem; mechanic checked the battery first (saved some time there) and sure 'nuff... it was a bad cell in the battery. Although it was about 3 weeks out of warranty, the battery was replaced free of charge Thanks again for all the input.

[fredgal]

my battery went bad in 6 months after new, replaced under warrenty,, crap batterys,,

[ARtraveler]

KUDOS to Jdr00ejr Took the bike to the shop & mentioned the possible battery problem; mechanic checked the battery first (saved some time there) and sure 'nuff... it was a bad cell in the battery. Although it was about 3 weeks out of warranty, the battery was replaced free of charge Thanks again for all the input.

Thank you for printing the solution. Low voltage does crazy things to the Spyder. I just replaced the battery on my 2019 and it runs like new again. In off season, I usually put a battery tender on. This year I did not. That coupled with less riding, caused the battery to fail.

It has been my thing to replace batteries every four years, whether I need them or not...so I was at that point anyway.