BajaRon Sway Bar Bushings

[BajaRon]

From time to time we have a customer saying their BajaRon Sway Bar bushings are worn out.

In the over 10 years we've been producing these bar kits for the 2013+ Spyder, we've never had a bushing wear out. However, we do find that the OEM factory bushings (injection molded plastic) tend to elongate on the stock bar. Usually with those who ride 2-up and do a lot of twisty roads. There is a good deal of vertical stress on the bushings even with the stock bar. The injection molded plastic has a hard time keeping its shape when stressed repeatedly.

Our bushings don't look special. But they are machined from solid Delrin stock. Here is the official line on Delrin. Delrin, also known as Polyoxymethylene (POM), is a high-performance acetal resin with several desirable physical and mechanical properties. This highly-crystalline engineered thermoplastic is widely regarded for its durability, stiffness, and exceptional dimensional stability. It is extremely resistant to wear and has self lubricating properties.

In other words, it is perfect for a high performance sway bar component.

It is interesting that most of the 'Worn out bushing' complaints trace back to dealership installs. I believe this is due to the tendency by tech's not to consult the detailed instructions included. If they do not properly tighten the bushing bolts, they will still work fine for awhile. But eventually, when everything settles in, free play develops producing a clunk every time the Spyder is turned. This clunk can also be reproduced by rocking the Spyder back-and-forth on the foot pegs. I am not saying that you should not use a dealership to install a BajaRon Sway Bar Kit. I think the great majority do a good job. Only that if you, at a later date, find you have a clunk in the sway bar assembly, check your bushings. The bushing bolts are easily accessible and correct tightening is easily done.

Customers who do their own install rarely have this issue because they almost always follow the instructions to the letter (thank you for that!).

The instructions are very clear. The stock bushings are a clamshell. The 2 halves come apart to allow installation over the bar. Our bushings are 1 piece with a slit at the bottom for installation. This increases rigidity. When properly tightened, this slit closes completely and a slight dimple is formed where the 2 sides come together. When customers concerned about worn bushings send us pictures, there is the inevitable gap in the slit. In every case were the customer properly tightens the bushing bolt, the problem has been permanently solved. The problem comes when the customer's dealer insists that the bushings are worn out, leaving the customer not knowing who is telling them the truth.

We usually are not able to get this customer to check their bushings (which are easy to see) or to tighten the bushing bolts, which are easily accessible. These customers are likely to tell others that the BajaRon Sway Bar Bushings wear out.

If you ever have a question or concern about our sway bar or any other product we produce. We are always happy to help.

[Isopedella]

Fair call there I reckon Ron.
I will check mine at some stage soon and possibly apply a smallish drop on the blue stuff to ensure the bolt stays where I left it.
I will put my hand up and say I have not checked those bolts since the install was done.

[BajaRon]

Fair call there I reckon Ron.
I will check mine at some stage soon and possibly apply a smallish drop on the blue stuff to ensure the bolt stays where I left it.
I will put my hand up and say I have not checked those bolts since the install was done.

I don't know that we've ever had a bushing bolt get loose or back off. They are a Nylock Nut. The issue is the initial installation. I didn't mean for everyone to start checking their bushings. If they are loose, they will tell you. And it doesn't damage anything for them to be loose. Just an annoying sound when you turn and lost efficiency in the sway bar assembly. We want to avoid both of these.

[FrogmanDave]

I will chime in here and say it bothered me a bit that when I installed my bar there was no torque spec. Just a note saying to cause a small dimple with a picture. I wondered if my small dimple was enough or not enough. It worked out just fine as far as I know, but I still wondered about it. I'm sure each bushing squish can be different so no torque spec is given. I'm just saying it can add some confusion. Thank you for the information Ron.

[BajaRon]

I will chime in here and say it bothered me a bit that when I installed my bar there was no torque spec. Just a note saying to cause a small dimple with a picture. I wondered if my small dimple was enough or not enough. It worked out just fine as far as I know, but I still wondered about it. I'm sure each bushing squish can be different so no torque spec is given. I'm just saying it can add some confusion. Thank you for the information Ron.

I understand. But to give a torque spec for a 6mm bolt is dangerous. Very easy to get them too tight and snap them off with a torque wrench out of calibration. Of course easily fixed with a new bolt. It's not like stripping threads on an oil filter cap. The torque spec would be low on the inch lb. scale. Then you run into so many that do not have an inch lb. wrench. Or some who don't catch the Inch Lb. and use a Foot Lb. wrench.

And you are correct that a spec might be too much for one and not enough for another. The slight dimple in the bushing is the most accurate measurement. Then again, what is 'Slight'. If you can see it or feel it, that's enough.