Hello All.
Picking up my new RT this weekend. I have had many 2-wheeled machines, this is the first 3-wheeler for me beside the offroad type. Is there anything I need to do besides the norm that I should do before my first ride? I know the dealers forget to do some things. Also, what are some good necessities to carry on the machine since I have a little storage. I plan to have a small socket and screwdriver set, and a tire repair kit.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-23-2023 at 06:20 AM.
Reason: Removed Prefix - this is not a HowTo: DIY thread... & expanded title to briefly ask the question ;-)
Based on the recommendation of a Spyder owner from Canada who I met at SpyderQuest last Sept. I purchased the Kobalt 35-Piece Standard (SAE) and Metric Combination Polished Chrome Mechanics Tool Set with Hard Case from Lowes. It has every size socket and bit to remove all the panels from my Spyder. It cost about $20
Current: 2022 RTL SE6 Red Marsala and 2012 622 Trailer Lava Bronze,
Previous: 2014 RTL SE6 Black Currant - 58,746 miles,
2012 RTL SE5 Lava Bronze - 19,675 miles
FIRST and foremost, Get all your exterior painted areas protected with some kind of protection if you want to keep it looking new. The paint on these machines is extremely soft! (nothing like your auto finish). I kick myself every time I look at mine because of the bug stains etched into the paint. Maybe it's only my Marsala Red! Honey bees and grasshoppers will wreck the finish. "Trust Me, I Know" ...Bill
2020 RTL Chrome, Marsala Red "Non-Directional Tires, Centramatic Balancers"
Front- Kumho KH-16 175/55r15 @17psi, Rear-General Altimax RT-45 215/60r15 @20psi
BaJa Ron Ultra 3 pcs sway bar kit
7jurock 25" tinted windscreen w/flip
Frogman Dave's "Signal Button" If in Doubt, Don't Do It!
" Pros: Excellent Bug Killer, Cons: Pizz Poor Pothole Dodger"
FIRST and foremost, Get all your exterior painted areas protected with some kind of protection if you want to keep it looking new. The paint on these machines is extremely soft! (nothing like your auto finish). I kick myself every time I look at mine because of the bug stains etched into the paint. Maybe it's only my Marsala Red! Honey bees and grasshoppers will wreck the finish. "Trust Me, I Know" ...Bill
petrol blue is just as bad, love bugs ruined my spyder
Based on the recommendation of a Spyder owner from Canada who I met at SpyderQuest last Sept. I purchased the Kobalt 35-Piece Standard (SAE) and Metric Combination Polished Chrome Mechanics Tool Set with Hard Case from Lowes. It has every size socket and bit to remove all the panels from my Spyder. It cost about $20
I'm a guy , so I'm all for having tools. However with limited space you only NEED tools for the types of things you can do ON THE ROAD. Decide what's possible to repair, and then carry the tool / tools you need to accomplish it. .... JMHO .... good luck .... Mike
Go over the whole machine checking fasteners for tightness. Any fasteners that are obviously loose, fix them. Any that are missing, replace them. Check behind the dealer all fluid levels. It is not unusual to find loose or missing fasteners on a brand new machine. Get a good coat of some kind of protective finish on it, and do at least a 500 mile break in period.
Some say you don't need the break in on the modern machines, but it can't hurt to do one. Run at least 500 miles, not necessarily all at one time. Keep it down below about 4200 RPMs and vary the speed a lot. Don't hold any one RPM for very long. Starts and stops, shifting calmly through the gears, slow to 45 MPH for a while, then run 60 MPH a while. Just vary the speeds.
Hello All.
Picking up my new RT this weekend. I have had many 2-wheeled machines, this is the first 3-wheeler for me beside the offroad type. Is there anything I need to do besides the norm that I should do before my first ride? I know the dealers forget to do some things. Also, what are some good necessities to carry on the machine since I have a little storage. I plan to have a small socket and screwdriver set, and a tire repair kit.
The best thing to do is hop on it and ride-ride-ride. it does NOT ride or handle like a bike no counter steering needed, don't try. Just get used to it
after a while you will love it .
FIRST and foremost, Get all your exterior painted areas protected with some kind of protection if you want to keep it looking new. The paint on these machines is extremely soft! (nothing like your auto finish). I kick myself every time I look at mine because of the bug stains etched into the paint. Maybe it's only my Marsala Red! Honey bees and grasshoppers will wreck the finish. "Trust Me, I Know" ...Bill
Originally Posted by SLICE
petrol blue is just as bad, love bugs ruined my spyder
Guys, get you a mini polisher and polish those etches right out. It's not that hard.
Then like others have said, coat it with ceramic or graphene (I use the new Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions graphene products) and you won't ever have this problem again. The newer Spyder's paint is hella soft for sure!
2022 Petrol Metallic RT Limited / 'PYDER'
Peter Pan has struck again!
Verify your front tire pressures are within 1/2 lb psi of each other.
If not a Limited, pump rear shock bladder to ~50lb to start. adjust to your liking after some miles.
After a short ride forward, check belt position on rear sprocket. S/B ~ 1 credit card gap from inner flange.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
I have been riding motorcycles for over 60 years including Spyders for the last 4 years after Covid took much of my leg strength away. I can tell you with all candor that there is an immense amount of good information on this site but there is also lots of opinions that may be inaccurate or unnecessary. What you need to do is RIDE THE DAM THING. Then you can make up your own mind about what changes if any you want to make.
Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
Sequential Fender LED'S (Amber/Red) with Safety Reflector
Dual Power Plate (12 V & USB ports)
Gremlin Bell
Rear Trunk Organizer (4 holders, 2 Elastic Holders)
Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
SpyderPops Missing Guard Belt
Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
Ultimate F3 Floorboards
Front Fairing Service Access Door Covers (Carbon Fiber Doomed Black)
Sway Bar with Links
Rolo Laser Alignment
Half Cover
A-Arm Daytime Dual Color LED Running Lights with Blinker Module
Hi-Viz DRL and Sequential Mirrors lights
Dealers have frequently not connected the small link that goes between the swing arm and the level sensor that tells the air system to add or release air from the air bag. A friend bought a new 22 RTL from a dealer in Bonita Springs Florida about 3 weeks ago. I was aware of this common oversight so I took a picture of the link (not connected to the swing arm) and showed it to the salesman. He assured us that he would make sure that the service department connected this when they did the PDI the next day. Guess what???? The link did not get connected during the PDI and my friend didn't check it. I took another picture. The dealer sent a flatbed truck to pick up the Spyder for repair. A day later they delivered it back to my friend. STILL NOT COMMECTED! I sent the picture to the service adviser and explained what the link was for. They sent a senior tech to my friends house and he finally connected the little link. I think its a 10MM bolt. He explained that they use very junior (cheap) techs to uncrate and assemble new machines. I suggested that maybe a senior tech should check the junior tech's work. The attached picture is upside down and I can't fix it.
2021 Spyder RTL chalk/black/chrome bought in March 21. Previous rides: 2019 Spyder RTL, Orange/chrome. 2015 Harley Heritage, 2002 Harley Heritage, 77 Harley Electra Glide, 75 Harley Electra Glide, 72 Harley Sportster (first bike bought new)
My Spyder Mods
Rider backrest, F&R cup holders; F3 handlebars; BRP LED driving light; LaMonster front fender and mirror turn signals, LaMonster Saddlebag lights, Auxito LED rear turn signal blubs w/ built in load resistor; Brake lite modulator/flasher; LaMonster flags on trunk; Garmin Zumo XT. LaMonster Bluetooth adapter for Phone & GPS through Spyder speakers. LaMonster floorboard risers; FOBO tire pressure monitors, Vredestein front and rear tires; BajaRon sway bar.
The TITLE summarizes your question...”WHAT THINGS NEED TO BE DONE TO A NEW MACHINE”. The long and short of it is “NOTHING”. Nothing NEEDS ro be done. The machine is “just fine” the way it is. I went a year before I started adding anything (other than the drivers backrest, which I NEEDED, not the machine). Start riding it yourself, and YOU DECIDE what it NEEDS for your enjoyment. just my $0.02 worth.
I never understood how one can know what their tire pressure is, without hiring an independent lab that has scientifically calibrated equipment. Go buy 10 different pressure gauges, and you’ll get 10 different readings. There’s no way to tell which one is correct. I’m not blasting you, @RayBJ, as you are correct. I’m just wondering how does one measure the true air pressure in their tires?
~~2010 RS SE5 My first Spidey, but not my first ride~~
The trigger’s been pulled. We have to
get there before the hammer falls.
I never understood how one can know what their tire pressure is, without hiring an independent lab that has scientifically calibrated equipment. Go buy 10 different pressure gauges, and you’ll get 10 different readings. There’s no way to tell which one is correct. I’m not blasting you, @RayBJ, as you are correct. I’m just wondering how does one measure the true air pressure in their tires?
It really doesn’t make much difference as to what the “true” tire pressure is, as long as you use the same pressure gauge when checking your left front and your right front tires and keeping them as close as possible to the same reading. As for the overall pressure, the majority of gauges are close to each other (usually within a pound or two).
Last edited by bigbadbrucie; 03-26-2023 at 04:03 PM.
Reason: Spelling
It really doesn’t make much difference as to what the “true” tire pressure is, as long as you use the same pressure gauge when checking your left front and your right front tires and keeping them as close as possible to the same reading. As for the overall pressure, the majority of gauges are close to each other (usually within a pound or two).
Exactly why I didn't state the actual pressures. The key is to have the front tires as close as reasonable (1/2lb) to each other. A digital gauge works best for me.