My 2014 RTS won't turn on or start! Any ideas??

[NightStalker]

So I have a 2014 RTS with about 8800 miles on it. Yesterday morning I put the key in and turned it on, the lights turned on for a microsecond, then went out, and nothing. Won't turn on. Won't do anything. I hooked the battery charger up to it and waited until this afternoon to try to start it. Same thing. Lights on briefly and go out and nothing.

A little backstory just in case it might be relevant. Last summer it began to not want to start, like it would crank once, the speedo would reset and then it would start. Thought maybe it was a bad battery, because I assume it's the same battery since new because I bought this in 2021 and it had 3300 miles on it. I just replaced the original tires which I why I assume the battery was original.

Thanks in advance for suggestions/help.

Jim

[UtahPete]

Just to clarify, this is happening after turning on the ignition and before hitting the starter button?

[Peter Aawen]

It sounds like at the very least, your battery is dead!!

Did you replace the battery last summer, or just put it on a charger? If a battery has an internal short or it's (ever ) been discharged down below about 6 volts, putting it on a charger is really just a waste of time & electricity, it's dead, and no amount of re-charging will truly bring it back to a usefully workable & reliable life even if it might give you a very light surface charge that possibly lasts as long as it takes you to see that it's there!!

So, I'd suggest that if you fitted a new battery last summer, you need to get that load tested and only if it tests as good or better, then get it charged properly (about 8-12 hours on a good quality battery charger/maintainer) and if not, then you need to GET a new battery that matches or exceeds the OEM battery specs, and BEFORE installing it, put it on a good quality Battery Charger/Maintainer for about 8-12 hours in order to make sure it's fully charged from the outset (they often aren't! ) Then while whatever battery is charging, you need to check, clean, & tighten every ground/earth you can find on the Spyder; remove any locktite or similar you find in the process, & fit star washers to every earth bolt to ensure an ongoing tight connection; clean & check the battery terminals too, and make sure you've got star washers on hand for them also, to fit when you tighten those terminals as you install the newly charged battery.

With any luck, that'll solve your problem; but I'd also suggest that it's a good idea to get the charge system checked for proper operation once the new/charged battery is installed & the bike is running properly; and then also check for any significant battery discharge/drain once you shut it down again. These things always have a small (tiny) discharge when not running (to run/maintain clocks & other computer settings ) but any significant drain could be evidence of an improperly wired accessory &/or other issues that you need to resolve before going too far from home.

Good Luck!

[NightStalker]

Yes. As soon as I turn the key, the lights turn on then off immediately and nothing.

[JayBros]

I agree w/- Peter, battery is toast. Pull it out and have is load tested at any reliable auto parts store.

[2dogs]

Don't forget, when you first turn the key on your spyder it takes a boatload of juice to energize the system before you ever hit the starter.

[sledge]

So I have a 2014 RTS with about 8800 miles on it. Yesterday morning I put the key in and turned it on, the lights turned on for a microsecond, then went out, and nothing. Won't turn on. Won't do anything. I hooked the battery charger up to it and waited until this afternoon to try to start it. Same thing. Lights on briefly and go out and nothing.

A little backstory just in case it might be relevant. Last summer it began to not want to start, like it would crank once, the speedo would reset and then it would start. Thought maybe it was a bad battery, because I assume it's the same battery since new because I bought this in 2021 and it had 3300 miles on it. I just replaced the original tires which I why I assume the battery was original.

Thanks in advance for suggestions/help.

Jim

Just a few weeks ago , I had kinda samething on my 2011 RTS , started like it should , and rode it about 35 miles to a Music store , turned it off went in and did what I came for , walked out, pushed starter button , Everything went off . now I was a professional Mechanic close to 40 years , so.. first thought same as most of these other follks , ( battery ) I called AAA and they sent a roll-back to pick me up and took me and bike home .. I checked Battery and it was bearly 12 volts , which is not really quite enough , should be 13.5 or higher . so I bought a new Battery put it on my Spyder , started like new , for 4 or 5 times while inside my little shop , just long enough to put all the parts back on the bike , then...... samething again . push start... everything went off .. sooo I started checking connections , I found the problem in just few minutes ... the OTHER END of the Ground or Negative cable ... not at the Battery but where it is bolted to the Frame , about 12" or so from the Battery on the Right side of the bike , there is a bolt running through the Ground Cable end and through a hole in the frame under the seat on the right side of the bike , mine was only half tight... I tightened that small 10mm bolt and nut .. and instantly the bike started better than it had ever started in the almost 2 years that I have owned it . I am sure when I put the new battery on the bike I had moved the cable enough to make a connection and it started , but...... the more I moved things and stuff It lost connection again... soooo unless you have already found the problem you might want to check that. J.M.O.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

It sounds like at the very least, your battery is dead!!

Did you replace the battery last summer, or just put it on a charger? If a battery has an internal short or it's (ever ) been discharged down below about 6 volts, putting it on a charger is really just a waste of time & electricity, it's dead, and no amount of re-charging will truly bring it back to a usefully workable & reliable life even if it might give you a very light surface charge that possibly lasts as long as it takes you to see that it's there!!

So, I'd suggest that if you fitted a new battery last summer, you need to get that load tested and only if it tests as good or better, then get it charged properly (about 8-12 hours on a good quality battery charger/maintainer) and if not, then you need to GET a new battery that matches or exceeds the OEM battery specs, and BEFORE installing it, put it on a good quality Battery Charger/Maintainer for about 8-12 hours in order to make sure it's fully charged from the outset (they often aren't! ) Then while whatever battery is charging, you need to check, clean, & tighten every ground/earth you can find on the Spyder; remove any locktite or similar you find in the process, & fit star washers to every earth bolt to ensure an ongoing tight connection; clean & check the battery terminals too, and make sure you've got star washers on hand for them also, to fit when you tighten those terminals as you install the newly charged battery.

With any luck, that'll solve your problem; but I'd also suggest that it's a good idea to get the charge system checked for proper operation once the new/charged battery is installed & the bike is running properly; and then also check for any significant battery discharge/drain once you shut it down again. These things always have a small (tiny) discharge when not running (to run/maintain clocks & other computer settings ) but any significant drain could be evidence of an improperly wired accessory &/or other issues that you need to resolve before going too far from home.

Good Luck!

.... and ... what lights ???? ... dashboard ???? or headlights ???? .....Mike

[BertRemington]

8yr old low mileage garage queen in SWFL. First loosen (one at a time) the battery connections then charge overnight. If that doesn't fix the problem you have two options:

1. replace the battery and charge overnight before riding.
2. fuss for a few weeks chasing gremlins before replacing the battery.

There's the possibility of mild corrosion on the fuse and relay terminals. More likely if you lived in Pensacola and stored your Spyder next to your boat.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

with the others. Your battery is shot. If the voltage drops below 10.5 when you hit the starter it's a no go. The days of starting a bike with a half dead battery are long gone.