Have you seen a wheel leaning like this on an F3? ? ?
Hello guys,
I noticed after I dismount that the rear fender, my rear wheel is not vertical as it should be. I measured it and I was not happy with the result. The tire wear on left side was a clue and I changed it to a TOYO TR1.
I refuse to even think that the frame is bent and I need to fix it. Is there any Spyder like this? Do you have pics?
Just for kicks put a small square on the bolt head and the level on the to see if the bolt is out of plumb with the tire!! Then on a flat surface measure the tips of your frame to the floor on both sides!
It could have something to do with worn swing arm bushes &/or not 'square' rear wheel mounting.... Orrr, have you or anyone you're aware of done anything to the belt tension of late - or ever??
Ps: IIRC, there was another Spyder that had a 'tilted' rear wheel like that (I reckon it might've been the same way too?? ) - I believe it was the 'swing arm bush' mount point on the frame that was 'worn' oval on the left, letting (causing??) the whole swing arm & wheel assembly to move & tilt that way.
Try putting "swing arm" (with the quotation marks ) into the Search Field (top Right of the page); tick the 'Search Titles Only' box in the drop down list below it; & then submit the search - the thread title should help you find the one you're after or any you might want to read.
Good Luck!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-03-2023 at 07:06 AM.
Is the surface the bike is parked on perfectly level, front and back?
Just from the shadows and light reflection, the parking surface appears to be rough finished at best.
Take the bike to a poured and smooth finished surface and do the level checks again. Find a surface where you can lay a 4 foot spirit level and get a dead center bubble in a full circle, where the front tires sit, and where the rear tires sit.
Road surfaces and sidewalks are rarely level. If they were level when poured or paved, the freeze buckling and settling would soon have them far from it.
Last year I hit something on the road, a bump...with left wheel.
So is it the FRONT suspension that's damaged? Surely not, cos wouldn't that leave the body, frame, and rear tire all on the same (leaning left) angle?? But yours looks like just the rear wheel is leaning, and not the body.proper...
It is hard to tell from the picture that the rear wheel is tilted. It may be more obvious in person. But you need to check more places before assuming that it is the rear wheel.
Of course, you need to be absolutely sure that the surface your Spyder is sitting on is level side-to-side. You have to start there. Then you need to check level on other surfaces to be sure it isn't suspension or other factors giving you this off level at the rear wheel. I am not sure which surfaces you can trust to do this for you. Maybe the main backbone and sub-frame members. They are flat surfaces which should be a good start. If they bubble out level, that will be valuable information.
If the tilt is in the rear wheel. Then I would say you either have a bent frame or bent swingarm. The swingarm is quite rugged, whereas the the Spyder frame is a bit fragile. But without isolating where the 'Bend' is. You will not know which component or components are giving you this issue.
Agree hard to tell from pics, hopefully optical illusion because of the license plate. The level bubble is good try but depends on other factors. Oddly don’t see increased wear on tire or belt from pics. Guaranteed indicators. How does it ryde? Feel like butt end doing something wrong? Suggest taking Measurements from either side from axle to swing arm pivot; pivot to something in line along frame, foot peg or similar. Laser alignment available? Additionally with rear tire off the ground, you could rotate the tire & watch for any change in the gap between it & the swing arm. In this, the hitch took the damage, maybe also some to bearings, but had a second incident & made it hard to determine.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-04-2023 at 03:58 AM.
Reason: ' 's
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
Thinking about this and would like to see the same bubble reading from the front pulley. If they are different, then you definitely have an issue at the rear wheel. The front and rear pulleys should bubble out identically.
Rotated OP photo. Something is really wrong with his machine.
2018 RT Ltd - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix
2018 RT Ltd Chrome - Champagne Metallic - Lake Stevens, Wa
(Champagne/Hooker) Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Vredestein and PPA Orb wheels on front and General out back, and driver backrest.
Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zumo XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer trike up North; and Hookie my winter trike down South.
(Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM driver's backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with voltmeter, dash cam, foam grips - Magic Mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.
Bent swing arm or something is missing after the fender delete that is making the rear wheel go all cockeyed.
2020 F3 SE6
Safety and Lighting: LED Headlight upgrade, IPS LED Fog lights, Show Chrome LED Fender Signals, LED Signature Light, Tric LED Afterburnerz, MotoHorn 2.0
Suspension: Wilbers Front and Rear Shocks, BajaRon Sway Bar, Vredestein Quatrac Front and Rear Tires
Comfort: Blue Ridge Windshield, Corbin Dual Touring Saddle, Ultimate Floorboards, OEM Passenger Backrest with Rear Shelf, OEM Passenger Floorboards Modified with High Risers from Pierre
Tackform Center Mount Phone Holder w/ rapid charging USB-C.
Agree hard to tell from pics, hopefully optical illusion because of the license plate. The level bubble is good try but depends on other factors. Oddly don’t see increased wear on tire or belt from pics. Guaranteed indicators. How does it ryde? Feel like butt end doing something wrong? Suggest taking Measurements from either side from axle to swing arm pivot; pivot to something in line along frame, foot peg or similar. Laser alignment available? Additionally with rear tire off the ground, you could rotate the tire & watch for any change in the gap between it & the swing arm. In this, the hitch took the damage, maybe also some to bearings, but had a second incident & made it hard to determine.
There is Definitely increased wear on the far right side of the tire tread!
But in the first post of this thread, Sergiu tells us that's a new TOYO TR1 tire.....
Originally Posted by SERGIU
Hello guys,
I noticed after I dismount that the rear fender, my rear wheel is not vertical as it should be. I measured it and I was not happy with the result. The tire wear on left side was a clue and I changed it to a TOYO TR1.
I refuse to even think that the frame is bent and I need to fix it. Is there any Spyder like this? Do you have pics?
Regards,
Sergiu
.....
And it's an asymmetrical tire too, so that'll make it even harder to detect any 'abnormal wear' by eye/viewing a pic right now - in fact, if the tire's done less than about 2000 miles, detecting ANY ABNORMAL WEAR with anything but some fairly sensitive measuring tools is gonna be a bit of a problem.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-04-2023 at 04:49 PM.
But in the first post of this thread, Sergiu tells us that's a new TOYO TR1 tire.....
And it's an asymmetrical tire too, so that'll make it even harder to detect any 'abnormal wear' by eye/viewing a pic right now - in fact, if the tire's done less than about 2000 miles, detecting ANY ABNORMAL WEAR with anything but some fairly sensitive measuring tools is gonna be a bit of a problem.
Ahhhhhh. Thanks for that, Peter. I could not see the signs of wear on the right that Redrazor mentioned. What are you seeing that I am missing, Redrazor?
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
Why hasn't the belt fell off yet, maybe not quite enough angle Get it up to 200mph and post the results
Think I'd drop the belt and shock bolt, jack it up and wriggle the bejeezus out of it.
Are you the original owner or did you buy it like that?
But in the first post of this thread, Sergiu tells us that's a new TOYO TR1 tire.....
And it's an asymmetrical tire too, so that'll make it even harder to detect any 'abnormal wear' by eye/viewing a pic right now - in fact, if the tire's done less than about 2000 miles, detecting ANY ABNORMAL WEAR with anything but some fairly sensitive measuring tools is gonna be a bit of a problem.
I am not saying this is a terrible thing. But an asymmetrical tire on a single wheel application is not the best. These tires are specifically designed for a 2 wheeled axle. The outside tread is usually more rubber and less void with a harder rubber compound. This is to help the tires outer edge to maintain it's shape, reduce wear and deformation because this portion of the tire is taking the brunt of the centrifugal forces in a turn. The inside portion of the tire is usually a softer rubber and less of it with larger voids. This is to improve water shedding and increase traction in an area that is less prone to wear.
On a 2 axle wheel, Both outside and inside portions of the tire are doing what they are designed to do. But on a single wheel axle, you are putting the soft portion of the tire at a disadvantage when the turns centrifugal force is applied as that portion of the tire is not designed to perform in that capacity. If I were to use an asymmetrical tire in the US (driving on the right). I would put the outer edge of the tire on the left side as right turns are always sharper than left turns. A small advantage, but it would at least do something to mitigate the disparity in design characteristics.
Ahhhhhh. Thanks for that, Peter. I could not see the signs of wear on the right that Redrazor mentioned. What are you seeing that I am missing, Redrazor?
Pete
The little slashes that are on the very outside tread on the left side are missing on the right side. Look closely in an enlarged view of the photo and I think you will see the difference. Good luck.
2014 RTL bought in 3/20 with only 6,000 mi.
Came with Garmin 660
Car tires in 5/20; Elka stage 2 front shocks in 10/21
So is it the FRONT suspension that's damaged? Surely not, cos wouldn't that leave the body, frame, and rear tire all on the same (leaning left) angle?? But yours looks like just the rear wheel is leaning, and not the body.proper...
Have you seen a wheel leaning like this on an F3? ? ?
Reply With Quote
Just for kicks put a small square on the bolt head and the level on the to see if the bolt is out of plumb with the tire!! Then on a flat surface measure the tips of your frame to the floor on both sides!
Orrr, have you or anyone you're aware of done anything to the belt tension of late - or ever?? 
) into the Search Field (top Right of the page); tick the 'Search Titles Only' box in the drop down list below it; & then submit the search - the thread title should help you find the one you're after or any you might want to read. 
Originally Posted by SERGIU
Surely not, cos wouldn't that leave the body, frame, and rear tire all on the same (leaning left) angle?? But yours looks like just the rear wheel is leaning, and not the body.proper... 
You did notice and photo the worn tread on the right side of the tire. The wheel is most defiantly leaning to the right! Lots of possibilities 
There is Definitely increased wear on the far right side of the tire tread! 
