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Very Active Member
Explain this please - How come the controls are pinned??
How come the controls on the handlebars are pinned?
My right wrist is at such an awkward angle that I cramp up within an hour of riding. I'm tempted to cut the dang pin off, and to rotate the control to a comfortable angle.
More idiot engineering.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-16-2023 at 06:58 PM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly ask the question... ;-)
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Very Active Member
That is what i would do. Bruce
New to Sue and I
2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
Gone but not forgotten
RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles
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As much as I detest engineers, this one may make some sense. It could be they are pinned in order to prevent rotation that would put undue strain on electrical connections. just food for thought before you do something you might regret.
I too, am not entirely happy with the stock bars but in a different way. I would prefer they be about six inches narrower while remaining at the same angle. Unfortunately, I don't think there is a way to remove three inches from each side without destroying things. I explored this a couple of years ago with the thread here (I think).
Last edited by cruisinTX; 02-16-2023 at 07:18 PM.
Those who say " I can't" will always be right.
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Very Active Member
I cut the pins off my handle bar controls.
They were interfering with the location I drilled to mount my mirrors.
David C
2016 F3T
DIY Garage Door Opener & GPS Mount
Battery tender cable
Rear IPS Pack Rack
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by cruisinTX
As much as I detest engineers, this one may make some sense. It could be they are pinned in order to prevent rotation that would put undue strain on electrical connections. just food for thought before you do something you might regret.
I too, am not entirely happy with the stock bars but in a different way. I would prefer they be about six inches narrower while remaining at the same angle. Unfortunately, I don't think there is a way to remove three inches from each side without destroying things. I explored this a couple of years ago with the thread here (I think).
this is the first motorcycle i've owned were the controls are not adjustable.
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Very Active Member
I elongated the hole on my F3, Stephan. Worked perfectly. You don’t have to worry about cabling pressure as you don’t have to move them far to get them comfy.
On the ‘20+ RT, the aftermarket Helibars give you full adjustment. (Also on the F3 of course)……but it’s an expensive buy just for control movement.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SLICE
How come the controls on the handlebars are pinned?
My right wrist is at such an awkward angle that I cramp up within an hour of riding. I'm tempted to cut the dang pin off, and to rotate the control to a comfortable angle.
More idiot engineering.
Safety, safety, safety. The last thing in the world you want is for the control and grip to rotate unrestrained while you're riding at 80 mph down the Interstate. It's held in place with screws, and screws do vibrate loose and/or break. The pinned position is set to be suitable for something like 85% plus of riders.
Go ahead and make a change for your own particular individual needs but make sure that whatever mod you make will keep the configuration just as safe as the original.
And lastly, as an engineer I do take offense at your characterization of it being idiot engineering. Just because it doesn't fit with your specific needs doesn't make it a bad design. Incompatible, yes. Bad, no.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SLICE
this is the first motorcycle i've owned were the controls are not adjustable.
According to posts on GL1800 Riders forum Goldwing controls are not adjustable.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by cruisinTX
As much as I detest engineers, this one may make some sense. It could be they are pinned in order to prevent rotation that would put undue strain on electrical connections. just food for thought before you do something you might regret.
I too, am not entirely happy with the stock bars but in a different way. I would prefer they be about six inches narrower while remaining at the same angle. Unfortunately, I don't think there is a way to remove three inches from each side without destroying things. I explored this a couple of years ago with the thread here (I think).
....BINGO ........... This is exactly why the are made this way, and it's not un-common. As I re-call I changed the pin location slightly to change the angle on an 08 and 11 models
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
And lastly, as an engineer I do take offense at your characterization of it being idiot engineering. Just because it doesn't fit with your specific needs doesn't make it a bad design. Incompatible, yes. Bad, no.
as a retired industrial mechanic i worked with engineers for 31 years.... i know the game extremely well .
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
According to posts on GL1800 Riders forum Goldwing controls are not adjustable.
never owned a honda. kawasaki's/ducati/ home built custom V twin/ 2 Harleys
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my controls are perfect position on my 2020 f3L for me...
2020 F3 limited, liquid titanium
grip puppies
Bajaron sway bar
lamonster belt dampener
battery tender
19 in freedom tinted windshield
matte black daytona frunk wrap
Quadtrac 165/60's
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I rotated my controls to where I wanted them. Then marked the location and drilled a new hole. works great and they are still "locked/pinned" in place.
2021 RT Limited Asphalt Gray
Halo Skid
Driver's backrest
2" riser w/ F3 standard handlebars
F4 vented 25" windshield
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Very Active Member
There is some adjustment as the hole is slotted. Just not enough for you apparently. Like others have said, I'm sure the pin is a safety device to keep the bars from rotating should the clamp become loose somehow. What has always baffled me is, the factory CanAm handlebar riser does away with the pin completely. Go figure.
2022 Petrol Metallic RT Limited / 'PYDER'
Peter Pan has struck again!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by FrogmanDave
There is some adjustment as the hole is slotted. Just not enough for you apparently. Like others have said, I'm sure the pin is a safety device to keep the bars from rotating should the clamp become loose somehow. What has always baffled me is, the factory CanAm handlebar riser does away with the pin completely. Go figure.
We're talking about two different pins. Slice was asking about a pin to keep the controls from rotating on the handlebar. With the riser you're referring to a pin to keep the handlebar from rotating. Probably BRP recognizes the need to be able to rotate the handlebar to bring it into a comfortable position when it is raised above the steering column via the risers.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
We're talking about two different pins. Slice was asking about a pin to keep the controls from rotating on the handlebar. With the riser you're referring to a pin to keep the handlebar from rotating. Probably BRP recognizes the need to be able to rotate the handlebar to bring it into a comfortable position when it is raised above the steering column via the risers.
I guess he did say controls. My bad. I am confused as to how this would make his wrist hurt after an hour of riding? Slice?
2022 Petrol Metallic RT Limited / 'PYDER'
Peter Pan has struck again!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by FrogmanDave
I guess he did say controls. My bad. I am confused as to how this would make his wrist hurt after an hour of riding? Slice?
Not speaking on Slice’s behalf, but from my experience, the stock bar was too close to me, forcing my wrists at an odd angle, Dave. To get the bar a decent distance from you requires rotating it. This puts the bar angle at an even more unfortunate upward angle. The same would go for rotating the bar toward you, except with a downward angle. With the set position of the controls this means you either have you wrists rolled over the top of the grips, or bent up. It gets quite uncomfortable, quite quickly. That’s where the Helibars really come into the own with the ability to adjust the angle of the controls
Pete
Last edited by Peteoz; 02-18-2023 at 02:58 PM.
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
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The left control is fully adjustable, Stephan? I’m not sure how that can be. It was the left hand handlebar hole that I had to elongate to rotate those controls. You only need say an extra 5mm of hole to give you 10mm or more of adjustment.
Why do you need to move the throttle side controls? There’s just one off controls there like Cruise, Starter, Hazard etc, unlike the left side with horn, indicators, shifter etc.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Peteoz
The left control is fully adjustable, Stephan? I’m not sure how that can be. It was the left hand handlebar hole that I had to elongate to rotate those controls. You only need say an extra 5mm of hole to give you 10mm or more of adjustment.
Why do you need to move the throttle side controls? There’s just one off controls there like Cruise, Starter, Hazard etc, unlike the left side with horn, indicators, shifter etc.
Pete
Arthritis in my wrist has left me with limited mobility.
I need to have my wrist in a ''flat'' position when cruising, imagine your hand & wrist in a brace, now try to pivot your wrist... yeah.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-19-2023 at 07:03 AM.
Reason: imanage - imagine ;-)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SLICE
Arthritis in my wrist has left me with limited mobility.
I need to have my wrist in a ''flat'' position when cruising, imagine your hand & wrist in a brace, now try to pivot your wrist... yeah.
Ahhhhhhh. Gotcha. Zero margin, eh
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
Safety, safety, safety. The last thing in the world you want is for the control and grip to rotate unrestrained while you're riding at 80 mph down the Interstate. It's held in place with screws, and screws do vibrate loose and/or break. The pinned position is set to be suitable for something like 85% plus of riders.
Go ahead and make a change for your own particular individual needs but make sure that whatever mod you make will keep the configuration just as safe as the original.
And lastly, as an engineer I do take offense at your characterization of it being idiot engineering. Just because it doesn't fit with your specific needs doesn't make it a bad design. Incompatible, yes. Bad, no.
Hmmmm! Safety, safety, safety but not for the placement of the cruise control being so close to the Kill Switch, as I discovered at 100+kph when changing lanes on a local freeway. Medical paddles were not needed to get this heart rushing. Kill Switch is now jammed and unswitchable. Maybe it is just silly me ... not knowing that I am supposed to be looking at the switch instead of tne road!!
There is usually another way. 2020 F3Ltd.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by RazzleH
Hmmmm! Safety, safety, safety but not for the placement of the cruise control being so close to the Kill Switch, as I discovered at 100+kph when changing lanes on a local freeway.
Actually it's not that big of a deal. Just reach over immediately and switch it back on and continue on your merry way! Of course you do have to turn cruise control back on. I've accidentally turned mine off several times when reaching over to touch my tablet screen.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by SLICE
The outside cover on the switch housing is slotted also, it provides minimal adjustment.
I need to rotate it about an half inch clockwise.
1 - I could elongate the slot, but electronics for throttle... .
2 - Pull pin out of switch housing.
3 - Buy outside switch housing cover and pull pin so I have a spare if things don't work out for me.
I'll call and order a switch housing cover on Monday.
Peteoz is correct, rotating the bars up has put the controls at an incredibly awful angle, but wait there's more - the left control is fully adjustable and it is now in the perfect position.
I'm so fed up with all the design flaws on this machine that I'm about ready to sell and go back to Harley Davidson.
Hi,
I would like to rotate the left control upward a bit on my 2022, RTL but can't see a way to secure the controls once in the desired position. How did you do yours?
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