What Tire pressure should I use in my new auto tires????

[Jackhartjr]

Hi folks, 2013 RTL.
Putting the Vredesteins on the front Monday. What Pressure please?
I have General Altimax on rear already. What Pressure for it please!

[Peter Aawen]

There's a vast amount of info on this subject easily accessed by entering 'tire; + pressure' into the search field towards the top right corner of the page, then clicking the 'Search Titles Only' box in the drop down list below it, before hitting the magnifying glass to submit the search and settling in to do some reading! That said, I doubt very much you'd need anything more than the widely tested & recommended 18 psi all round, but you should do at least some of the reading anyway & make up your own mind...

[2dogs]

17/18 in each one.

[ulflyer]

15 fronts, 16 rear ...Vred's all around. They are a bit firmer than OEM's and I like as comfortable a ride as possible.

[DaniBoy]

Did BRP change the later model’s specs? I was working on my RS today and the label on that said 15 Front / 28 Rear.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Did BRP change the later model’s specs? I was working on my RS today and the label on that said 15 Front / 28 Rear.

I you have Auto tires ( I have Vredesteins also ) I drive aggressively and like 17 psi front 18 psi rear ..... but if like a more comfortable ride go with 15 front - 17 rear ..... this is for avg. load ... if heavy load add 2-3 lbs. .... Mike

[Navydad]

I run 18 psi all the way around. Works for me and easy to remember. Are you thoroughly confused yet?

[Peteoz]

Did BRP change the later model’s specs? I was working on my RS today and the label on that said 15 Front / 28 Rear.

DaniBoy, this is where a great deal of confusion arises. Those 15/28 figures in the manual are for the stock, thinner, OEM Kendas. The aftermarkets that Jack is putting on (Vredestein etc) are a different, sturdier, composition.

The figure of 18 (or so) all round, is what many of those with significant experience in the tyre industry (and who have also done significant personal research on the Kenda vs others, including dissection) have found gives the best outcome for aftermarket tyres on the lightweight Spyder (thus providing an ideal 3psi increase in tyre pressure when heated).

If you wanted to, you could run your aftermarket tyres at 14 with no issues, or the rear at 25. It’s up to you to find what best suits you. I prefer to follow the experience and logic of the likes of Peter A and Mike (BK), and run at 18 all round on my aftermarkets, which has served me very well

However, you need to run the stock Kendas at the 15/28 psi provided in the BRP manual if you want to get any sort of life/performance out of them.

Hope this helps…..

Pete

[IGETAROUND]

For WIW I run 16psi all three tires on both a 2021 RT and a 2018F3=T. They are wearing smoothly across the tread. Your results may vary.

Al in Kazoo

[Jackhartjr]

Folks, I really appreciate all who replied! And am always amazed at the conversation that ensues and helps us to learn more. Later, that's why I asked instead of looking it up!

[2dogs]

Don't forget now, OEM tires and passenger car tires are quite different in construction and react differently to different PSI's.

[Peteoz]

Don't forget now, OEM tires and passenger car tires are quite different in construction and react differently to different PSI's.

Yes indeed, 2dogs, with one major difference being that you can run the aftermarket car tyres at the mandated BRP pressures (not ideal, but they would work), but you can not run the OEM tyres at anything other than close to the mandated BRP pressures if you want them to perform and last well.

Pete

[Reacher68]

I you have Auto tires ( I have Vredesteins also ) I drive aggressively and like 17 psi front 18 psi rear ..... but if like a more comfortable ride go with 15 front - 17 rear ..... this is for avg. load ... if heavy load add 2-3 lbs. .... Mike

I am really shocked at how low people are setting their rear tire pressure. I've been running 18 front and 28 rear for the last 4.5 years. I have a 2016 F3-T. What is the advantage of running the rear that low? Doesn't it roll to the sidewall in aggressive cornering?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I am really shocked at how low people are setting their rear tire pressure. I've been running 18 front and 28 rear for the last 4.5 years. I have a 2016 F3-T. What is the advantage of running the rear that low? Doesn't it roll to the sidewall in aggressive cornering?

Not just me, folks who have gone to AUTO tires have learned ( from me and Peter A. ) that the PSI's we quote for Auto tires have been determined to work best using Science. .... 18 & 28 are what you NEED for Kenda tires ..... Mike

[Reacher68]

Not just me, folks who have gone to AUTO tires have learned ( from me and Peter A. ) that the PSI's we quote for Auto tires have been determined to work best using Science. .... 18 & 28 are what you NEED for Kenda tires ..... Mike

Well with that in mind, I guess I've been overinflating my Yokohama rear tire for the last 13k miles. doh!

[rhino1]

Is the center of your rear tire wearing faster than the out sides?

[rhino1]

Usually when u over inflate a tire, the center will wear faster. When u under inflate the sides of the tire will wear faster.

[Reacher68]

Is the center of your rear tire wearing faster than the out sides?

Yep
20230213_200532.jpg

[Peter Aawen]

I am really shocked at how low people are setting their rear tire pressure. I've been running 18 front and 28 rear for the last 4.5 years. I have a 2016 F3-T. What is the advantage of running the rear that low? Doesn't it roll to the sidewall in aggressive cornering?

And THAT's why the traction (& tread life) on your Yokohama Advan Fleva v701 205/55 R15 has been so poor, as you've mentioned elsewhere! The Yoko was designed with the capability to carry a car weighing in at over twice the weight of your Spyder's rear end when run @ 28psi, so with half the weight on it, at 28 psi the Yoko was grossly over-inflated, giving you the wear pattern you've shown us; it would never get its tread up to operating temperature (which effectively requires about a 3-4 psi increase in pressure from cold after an hour's riding & you would've had very little pressure increase at all, if any!) so it'd never provide its best possible traction; it would've given you a much harsher ride; it would've been far more rigid than ideal to keep the tread firmly in contact with the road all the time; it would've exposed your tire to excessive wear (particularly in the middle of the tread, only due to over-inflation rather than 'throwing-out' like the OEM Kendas); and the list goes on!

It's the air (& pressure) inside the tire that carries the load on it, and your Spyder is a much lighter load/weight than that of the cars that need 28 psi in that Yoko to carry their weight, so you need less pressure in it to carry the load - and by over-inflating it for the load the way you did may well have given you a very direct & precise feel with little sidewall roll, but Radial Tires are DESIGNED to have a fair degree of sidewall roll in order to keep their tread surface firmly in contact with the road surface.... that's the big difference between radial & cross-ply tires & how come radials improved ride & handling while significantly increasing traction - only your radial Yoko wouldn't have been able to keep its tread firmly in contact with the road surface, cos the sidewalls that've been made strong enough to carry a heavier load couldn't flex enough at that pressure so it would've forced then to 'lean' rather than flex & you would've been peeling the inside edge of the tread up so that you were running around the corners on the edge of the tread (& probably wearing the tread shoulders 'round' too! ) So yeah, you might find the ride different once you start running your rear tire at a pressure 'more appropriate for the lighter load', but by running the Yoko at a 'more appropriate for the load' pressure of 18 psi, the Yoko should be able to perform EXACTLY the way it's designed to, instead of riding & gripping the road like a brick in the manner it would've at 28 psi under a Spyder!

But I really don't want to type all the rest of this out again - there's a heap of info already on the Forum about this, it'd pay you to do a bit of searching & spend some time reading it; and reading the reports by many on what must by now add up to literally millions of miles successfully run by the collected members on these 'more appropriate for the lighter load' lower pressures - Go on, you know you want to, and you might learn something too?!

[Reacher68]

And THAT's why the traction (& tread life) on your Yokohama Advan Fleva v701 205/55 R15 has been so poor, as you've mentioned elsewhere! The Yoko was designed with the capability to carry a car weighing in at over twice the weight of your Spyder's rear end when run @ 28psi, so with half the weight on it, at 28 psi the Yoko was grossly over-inflated, giving you the wear pattern you've shown us; it would never get its tread up to operating temperature (which effectively requires about a 3-4 psi increase in pressure from cold after an hour's riding & you would've had very little pressure increase at all, if any!) so it'd never provide its best possible traction; it would've given you a much harsher ride; it would've been far more rigid than ideal to keep the tread firmly in contact with the road all the time; it would've exposed your tire to excessive wear (particularly in the middle of the tread, only due to over-inflation rather than 'throwing-out' like the OEM Kendas); and the list goes on!

It's the air (& pressure) inside the tire that carries the load on it, and your Spyder is a much lighter load/weight than that of the cars that need 28 psi in that Yoko to carry their weight, so you need less pressure in it to carry the load - and by over-inflating it for the load the way you did may well have given you a very direct & precise feel with little sidewall roll, but Radial Tires are DESIGNED to have a fair degree of sidewall roll in order to keep their tread surface firmly in contact with the road surface.... that's the big difference between radial & cross-ply tires & how come radials improved ride & handling while significantly increasing traction - only your radial Yoko wouldn't have been able to keep its tread firmly in contact with the road surface, cos the sidewalls that've been made strong enough to carry a heavier load couldn't flex enough at that pressure so it would've forced then to 'lean' rather than flex & you would've been peeling the inside edge of the tread up so that you were running around the corners on the edge of the tread (& probably wearing the tread shoulders 'round' too! ) So yeah, you might find the ride different once you start running your rear tire at a pressure 'more appropriate for the lighter load', but by running the Yoko at a 'more appropriate for the load' pressure of 18 psi, the Yoko should be able to perform EXACTLY the way it's designed to, instead of riding & gripping the road like a brick in the manner it would've at 28 psi under a Spyder!

But I really don't want to type all the rest of this out again - there's a heap of info already on the Forum about this, it'd pay you to do a bit of searching & spend some time reading it; and reading the reports by many on what must by now add up to literally millions of miles successfully run by the collected members on these 'more appropriate for the lighter load' lower pressures - Go on, you know you want to, and you might learn something too?!

How times have changed. When I was researching this 3.5 years ago, it seemed common and agreed that a 28psi rear was okay and preferred. Frankly, after I got the new tires I fell off the forums and have only looked on rare occasions. As I am doing new research for a new tire, I am finding exactly what you said above to be true and that less traction and obvious center tire wear resulted from my over-inflation. (Notice I have been just responding to threads I was reading and didn't actually post a new thread about tires ) At this point, I'll pick a new rear and work on having it inflated properly. I am leaning to the Vreds just because my fronts have been great. I am wondering if I would notice any handling difference from a Vred at 205/60 to a General or Kuhmo 215/60 provided they are properly inflated this time.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

How times have changed. When I was researching this 3.5 years ago, it seemed common and agreed that a 28psi rear was okay and preferred. Frankly, after I got the new tires I fell off the forums and have only looked on rare occasions. As I am doing new research for a new tire, I am finding exactly what you said above to be true and that less traction and obvious center tire wear resulted from my over-inflation. (Notice I have been just responding to threads I was reading and didn't actually post a new thread about tires ) At this point, I'll pick a new rear and work on having it inflated properly. I am leaning to the Vreds just because my fronts have been great. I am wondering if I would notice any handling difference from a Vred at 205/60 to a General or Kuhmo 215/60 provided they are properly inflated this time.

In reality "common psi's of 28" were for Kenda tires ONLY ...... Auto tires are Very different ....Peter and I have been trying for almost a decade to convince folks as to the Science of proper inflation ..... Mike

[Reacher68]

In reality " common psi's of 28 )" were for Kenda tires ONLY ...... Auto tires are Very different ....Peter and I have been trying for almost a decade to convince folks as to the Science of proper inflation ..... Mike

I didn't pay enough attention I guess.

[Peter Aawen]

I don't know what Forums you might've been looking at to have seen a recommendation for running 28 psi in a non-OEM auto tire on the rear of a Spyder, cos AFAIK, THIS Forum's been touting the 'more appropriate lower pressure for lighter loads' thing pretty much ever since about 2010, and certainly since 2013ish?!? We may not have been quite so comfortable saying 16-18psi all round will suit "the majority" of riders back then, but that was really only because back then we hadn't yet seen how minor the differences that result from the range of variables that can go into optimum pressure calculations are across the board - the relatively minor differences in variables in things like the possible loads that our Spyders can carry & the limited range of tires in sizes that actually fit under them have proven over time to make very little difference in the end result, and these days, it's fairly clear that 16-18 psi covers just about all the possible permutations until people/loads/tire sizes/ambient temps etc start getting waaayyy out towards the extremities of the bell-curve!

And when it comes to your tire choices, either we seem to get a whole different lot of Kumhos out here than you lot get over there, or our road surfaces are markedly different, cos (when running at the right pressures ) our Oz Spec Kumhos seem to work pretty well & don't have anywhere near the hydroplane issues some have commented on in your neck of the woods?! (Or possibly it's just another tire pressure issue?? Who knows? ) So bearing that in mind, I reckon it doesn't really matter too much which tire you choose, cos you'll likely be pleasantly surprised at the improved traction PLUS better ride & handling you'll get from any of those tires (when run at the right pressures, of course! ) There again, we don't often see Vredestein tires here Down Under, and our General's aren't easy to get in Spyder compatible sizes; but from what I've seen here about how they each perform over there, out of those you mention, the Vreds would probably be the top choice, the General Altimax next, with the Kumho's third, followed by just about any good quality Grand Touring tire that'll fit. Of course, if you really want to go High Performance, there are other tires that will make your pockets substantially lighter and might add a little improvement in one or more performance aspects; but for my 2 bob's worth, unless you're going into the obscenely expensive specialist performance tires (that are really capable of performing well beyond the Spyder's capabilities anway) there's just not all that much difference!

When the tire meets the tarmac, just about ANYTHING that's approved to run on a car in your country or mine is most likely going to be quids ahead of the OE Spec Kendas; most of them will outperform the Kendas in pretty much all aspects of tire performance; altho more recently, the stock Kendas have apparently been less prone to the quality issues that plagued them from the beginning and made them the single most limiting & disappointing thing about our Spyders... but only time will tell if that change sticks! In the meantime, if you can find a tire that sounds like it'll do what you want it to, takes your fancy, & actually fits under the fenders even if it's not exactly the same nominal size, then I'd say go for it!

Enjoy!

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I don't know what Forums you might've been looking at to have seen a recommendation for running 28 psi in a non-OEM auto tire on the rear of a Spyder, cos AFAIK, THIS Forum's been touting the 'more appropriate lower pressure for lighter loads' thing pretty much ever since about 2010, and certainly since 2013ish?!? We may not have been quite so comfortable saying 16-18psi all round will suit "the majority" of riders back then, but that was really only because back then we hadn't yet seen how minor the differences that result from the range of variables that can go into optimum pressure calculations are across the board - the relatively minor differences in variables in things like the possible loads that our Spyders can carry & the limited range of tires in sizes that actually fit under them have proven over time to make very little difference in the end result, and these days, it's fairly clear that 16-18 psi covers just about all the possible permutations until people/loads/tire sizes/ambient temps etc start getting waaayyy out towards the extremities of the bell-curve!

And when it comes to your tire choices, either we seem to get a whole different lot of Kumhos out here than you lot get over there, or our road surfaces are markedly different, cos (when running at the right pressures ) our Oz Spec Kumhos seem to work pretty well & don't have anywhere near the hydroplane issues some have commented on in your neck of the woods?! (Or possibly it's just another tire pressure issue?? Who knows? ) So bearing that in mind, I reckon it doesn't really matter too much which tire you choose, cos you'll likely be pleasantly surprised at the improved traction PLUS better ride & handling you'll get from any of those tires (when run at the right pressures, of course! ) There again, we don't often see Vredestein tires here Down Under, and our General's aren't easy to get in Spyder compatible sizes; but from what I've seen here about how they each perform over there, out of those you mention, the Vreds would probably be the top choice, the General Altimax next, with the Kumho's third, followed by just about any good quality Grand Touring tire that'll fit. Of course, if you really want to go High Performance, there are other tires that will make your pockets substantially lighter and might add a little improvement in one or more performance aspects; but for my 2 bob's worth, unless you're going into the obscenely expensive specialist performance tires (that are really capable of performing well beyond the Spyder's capabilities anway) there's just not all that much difference!

When the tire meets the tarmac, just about ANYTHING that's approved to run on a car in your country or mine is most likely going to be quids ahead of the OE Spec Kendas; most of them will outperform the Kendas in pretty much all aspects of tire performance; altho more recently, the stock Kendas have apparently been less prone to the quality issues that plagued them from the beginning and made them the single most limiting & disappointing thing about our Spyders... but only time will tell if that change sticks! In the meantime, if you can find a tire that sounds like it'll do what you want it to, takes your fancy, & actually fits under the fenders even if it's not exactly the same nominal size, then I'd say go for it!

Enjoy!

Let me expand on Peter's comments - at the end of His second paragraph in parenthesis He states ( that are really capable of performing well beyond the Spyder's capabilities anyway ). This is an Absolute fact .... The Bosche VSS will prevent any super sticky tire from performing at it's optimum limit - PERIOD .... I have used " super sticky " extra wide tires on my 14 RT .... and all I achieved was .... the NANNY didn't appreciate it.... Initially the Nanny will Warn you .... and not interfere by applying the brakes or slowing the engine .... However I found the Nanny, REALLY slowed me down when I had the super sticky tires. ..... good luck .... Mike

[Peteoz]

I didn't pay enough attention I guess.

No, it wasn’t a case of not paying attention, Reacher. So many of those responding do not take the time to see that the thread to which to which they are replying is about aftermarket car tyres, and comment that they are running at 16 and 28. Unfortunately, they are in fact referring to their Kenda tyres, but don’t reference that in their response. That is where a great deal of the confusion arises.

There’s an interesting FB post doing the rounds at the moment where someone is complaining that they only got 5000 miles out of their Kumho (worn down nearly to the wire in the middle)…… others are saying “wow, I got 20,000 and still going”. I asked the OP what pressure he was running, and he didn’t know (which is frightening in itself ) He said he would have to check the side of the tyre, because that was the pressure the fitter used. I guess that means he was probably running over 40psi, which would explain shorter tyre life

Pete