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So being February in NY and unable to ride, I’m working on the bike today. Kurayken grips, plugs and wires, canisterectomy, vacuum lines, etc. For fun, I pulled the dipstick and it’s not even wet. No oil showing whatsoever. Is that even conceivable for a 55 degree motor that hasn’t been run in two months? I’m holding off on doing the oil
/filter change until it’s nice enough that I can get this girl out for a ride.
~~2010 RS SE5 My first Spidey, but not my first ride~~
The trigger’s been pulled. We have to
get there before the hammer falls.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by DaniBoy
So being February in NY and unable to ride, I’m working on the bike today. Kurayken grips, plugs and wires, canisterectomy, vacuum lines, etc. For fun, I pulled the dipstick and it’s not even wet. No oil showing whatsoever. Is that even conceivable for a 55 degree motor that hasn’t been run in two months? I’m holding off on doing the oil
/filter change until it’s nice enough that I can get this girl out for a ride.
You have made the first step in understanding why there is such a convoluted procedure for checking the oil level.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by DaniBoy
For fun, I pulled the dipstick and it’s not even wet. No oil showing whatsoever. Is that even conceivable for a 55 degree motor that hasn’t been run in two months?
Yes! Go back to post #11, https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...=1#post1658351, and read the first full paragraph. I explain why that is normal.
Oops! I just noticed you have a 2010 which is the 990 V-twin. But much the same thing happens with it as with the 1330. The oil drains from the tank to the crankcase when it sits idle.
Last edited by IdahoMtnSpyder; 02-04-2023 at 07:22 PM.
Reason: Added Oops!
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by DaniBoy
So being February in NY and unable to ride, I’m working on the bike today. Kurayken grips, plugs and wires, canisterectomy, vacuum lines, etc. For fun, I pulled the dipstick and it’s not even wet. No oil showing whatsoever. Is that even conceivable for a 55 degree motor that hasn’t been run in two months? I’m holding off on doing the oil
/filter change until it’s nice enough that I can get this girl out for a ride.
YEP, that is WHY owners and EVEN dealerships with incompetent service tech's (yes these places sometimes, been reported here) overfill the oil. Then it leaks out thru the filler cap when started up and riding. This is an oddball engine, but proves to read the manual and just get on this forum to get the low down!!
2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400
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Since this is about oil changes. I just changed my oil in my 2022 RTL. I wouldn’t recommend u change the oil drain plug on the clutch side to the yellow zinc drain plug, hex head. Reason being is u can’t use a socket on it, because of the brake linkage in the way. U can’t tighten it or even torque it with a torque wrench. There was a reason y BRP put an Allen head plug there. Now on the other side with the torx head, that one will work. Just for your FYI. I probably should have started a new thread. O well.
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O, by the way, I’m in sunny Tucson AZ, not snowy cold Wisconsin!!
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