Anyone try to add these lights?

[kbrojako]

I have a 2017 RT and I'd like to add the light assemblies that go next to the frunk lid.Screenshot_20230108_145155_Chrome.jpg

Anyone know if they will fit if I take out the black plastic pieces that are currently in there?
20230108_151954.jpg

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have a 2017 RT and I'd like to add the light assemblies that go next to the frunk lid.Screenshot_20230108_145155_Chrome.jpg

Anyone know if they will fit if I take out the black plastic pieces that are currently in there?
20230108_151954.jpg

Does someone make them yes both OEM and aftermarket .... But none that I've seen are bright enough to mean anything .... I just bought Denali " D-2's " and they actually exceed what a high power LED headlamp can provide ..... these suckers light up the night .... good luck .... Mike .....PS I recently bought them on sale for $ 98.00 shipped with a complete wiring harness including a separate fuse and on/off switch that's illuminated..- google Denali and see what they have ....I believe the OEM re-placments are about $270.00 each

[askitee]

If you were in the same country as me (Australia) I'd swap you. Here, they are our headlights and are very poor. The OEM ones seem to be mostly related to the lense/reflector design.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I have a 2017 RT and I'd like to add the light assemblies that go next to the frunk lid.Screenshot_20230108_145155_Chrome.jpg

Anyone know if they will fit if I take out the black plastic pieces that are currently in there?
20230108_151954.jpg

Do you want them for real foglights, or for decoration? In either case they will be very pricey. As foglights they're not that good unless you swap the bulbs for LEDs. As decoration they do enhance the appearance of the front of the Spyder. If you want truly good functioning foglights do as Mike suggests and look a add-on LED lights.

As for which year of light to get if you do go that way the BRP lights should fit all years of RT from 2010 to 2019.

[JayBros]

The PNs are 710003256 (L) and 710003257 (R) @ $329.99 ea., and I am not certain what other parts one must purchase to complete installation. I switched my bulbs to LEDs several years ago; much brighter than the Halogens.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The PNs are 710003256 (L) and 710003257 (R) @ $329.99 ea., and I am not certain what other parts one must purchase to complete installation.

The switch to go into the console switch group.

[kbrojako]

Don't necessarily want them for more light- more for looks than anything else. Those plain black plastic pieces just look put of place.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Don't necessarily want them for more light- more for looks than anything else. Those plain black plastic pieces just look put of place.

In that case I suggest you search for used ones on eBay or motorcycle salvage yards to accomplish that goal for less money.

[cruisinTX]

Those were on our 2014 RT-L when we purchased it used a few years ago. For those who have dug down to the bulbs on them, what type are they and how difficult would it be to replace them with something brighter? I've found some 8000lumen LEDs that are pretty small (2.25" diameter). I'm also wondering about what appears to be a "brow" of some sort when I look into them from the front. Can that be removed without any issues? TIA

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Those were on our 2014 RT-L when we purchased it used a few years ago. For those who have dug down to the bulbs on them, what type are they and how difficult would it be to replace them with something brighter? I've found some 8000lumen LEDs that are pretty small (2.25" diameter). I'm also wondering about what appears to be a "brow" of some sort when I look into them from the front. Can that be removed without any issues? TIA

The right one is pretty much a piece of cake. The left one is pretty much a PITA because of the air intake air tube. A search will bring up a lot of discussion about changing them for LEDs. Lamonster has LEDs for both headlights and fog lights. Don't know how their brightness compares to the 8000 lumen ones you're looking at. About the 'brow' I can't help you. If I've seen it on my Spyder I don't remember, or haven't paid attention to it.

[Peter Aawen]

Those were on our 2014 RT-L when we purchased it used a few years ago. For those who have dug down to the bulbs on them, what type are they and how difficult would it be to replace them with something brighter? I've found some 8000lumen LEDs that are pretty small (2.25" diameter). I'm also wondering about what appears to be a "brow" of some sort when I look into them from the front. Can that be removed without any issues? TIA

You should be wary of installing anything of a higher wattage in ANY of the Spyder's main light assemblies, headlights or fog lights - those light assemblies are made of a poly type material, and they WILL discolour/fade from the inside if subject to too much heat.... like the extra heat you'd get from higher wattage globes! There was a time when BRP was replacing gratis quite a few of those light assemblies on 2013/14 Spyders, RT's in particular, because of the rapid hazing that occurred with just the standard wattage globes, but I don't think they'll be doing that any longer, especially not if you fit higher wattage globes!! Do you really need to ask me how I KNOW this occurred On my 2013 RT, it was all the headlight assemblies that needed replacing - both the lower assemblies because they'd hazed up, AND the upper assemblies cos they had large areas of distortion with small holes melted right thru the poly in the focus points - but in their defence, I had been running on Hi Beam (standard wattage OEM Globes) at very low speed (no cooling air flow) for more than 12 hours straight in our Ozzie High Summer heat, so I doubt too many outside your hotter/desert States will really stand too much chance of a similar thing occurring!??

But I'd STRONGLY recommend that if you want to replace the OEM lights with brighter lights, you look at installing cooler running high quality LED lights rather than just fitting normal higher wattage globes! And if you're planning on replacing the globes in those lower light assemblies, have plenty of refreshing (but not 'confusing or befuddling' ) drinks on hand; allow yourself a LOT more time than you initially estimate; and ideally, have a small but wiry kid nearby with triple jointed arms, hands, and fingers to get in to the fiddly areas for you - even if you DO take the Frunk completely off to do the job! It's not 'hard' as such, but one side (the left IIRC) is really fiddly & difficult to get in to without removing a bunch of other stuff!

Good Luck!

[cruisinTX]

Those were on our 2014 RT-L when we purchased it used a few years ago. For those who have dug down to the bulbs on them, what type are they and how difficult would it be to replace them with something brighter? I've found some 8000lumen LEDs that are pretty small (2.25" diameter). I'm also wondering about what appears to be a "brow" of some sort when I look into them from the front. Can that be removed without any issues? TIA

You should be wary of installing anything of a higher wattage in ANY of the Spyder's main light assemblies, headlights or fog lights - those light assemblies are made of a poly type material, and they WILL discolour/fade from the inside if subject to too much heat.... like the extra heat you'd get from higher wattage globes! There was a time when BRP was replacing gratis quite a few of those light assemblies on 2013/14 Spyders, RT's in particular, because of the rapid hazing that occurred with just the standard wattage globes, but I don't think they'll be doing that any longer, especially not if you fit higher wattage globes!! Do you really need to ask me how I KNOW this occurred On my 2013 RT, it was all the headlight assemblies that needed replacing - both the lower assemblies because they'd hazed up, AND the upper assemblies cos they had large areas of distortion with small holes melted right thru the poly in the focus points - but in their defence, I had been running on Hi Beam (standard wattage OEM Globes) at very low speed (no cooling air flow) for more than 12 hours straight in our Ozzie High Summer heat, so I doubt too many outside your hotter/desert States will really stand too much chance of a similar thing occurring!??

But I'd STRONGLY recommend that if you want to replace the OEM lights with brighter lights, you look at installing cooler running high quality LED lights rather than just fitting normal higher wattage globes! And if you're planning on replacing the globes in those lower light assemblies, have plenty of refreshing (but not 'confusing or befuddling' ) drinks on hand; allow yourself a LOT more time than you initially estimate; and ideally, have a small but wiry kid nearby with triple jointed arms, hands, and fingers to get in to the fiddly areas for you - even if you DO take the Frunk completely off to do the job! It's not 'hard' as such, but one side (the left IIRC) is really fiddly & difficult to get in to without removing a bunch of other stuff!

Good Luck!

Appreciate the insights nonetheless.

[190243]

Nope sorry

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Nope sorry

about what?

[BertRemington]

In Canada, those lower light positions are Low Beam headlights and the Canadians complain about the poor illumination provided.

I replaced the Fog Light circuit 35W H8 incandescent bulbs with Amber 20W H8 LED bulbs because my 35W HID headlamps provided illumination and I wanted the foglamps for perception (I'm also going to use them as secondary turn signals when I stop procrastinating).

If you want illumination, I recommend separate lights rather than fussing with BRP's light fixture.

If you want looks, you probably won't find the fixtures listed on eBay but if you message the various vendors selling Spyder parts they might have them on a shelf or set them aside for you when they buy another donor.

The connector is a 3-position AMP Superseal: Pin 1 is GY/BG Headlight power; Pin 2 is BK ground; Pin 3 is GY/GN Foglight power. The Foglight switch is simple: two wires for the power circuit and two wires for the illumination circuit. The wiring is probably already in place. If you don't find a BRP switch, it's easy to connect an illuminated SPST toggle switch.