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  1. #26
    Member narygancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peteoz View Post
    Yes, there is access to the shraeder valve under the seat on the ‘16 F3 Touring models, narygancy. I have sold my F3 so I can’t remember exactly where, unfortunately. If you remove the rear seat first, you may see the valve. If you can’t see it, remove the front seat (2 small bolts at rear of seat…….but keep a magnet on them or you may drop them into the black hole). You will definitely see the shraeder valve then.

    I’m 300lbs and was running at 75lbs…..but there is a formula in the operators manual, and on a plaque on the body (I think it is on the left side, below the seat??). Hopefully someone with more thorough knowledge will chime in shortly

    Pete
    Thanks Pete. I found another forum thread with some info on this, I plan to check my bike out soon. In the other thread some folks say the bladder loses air every few days, some say no problem at all. I bought it from a smallish female who always rode 1 up, so it wasn't an issue for her. Even using the Kendra there was no problem, only since I replaced the tire. You've been a lot of help. This is my first Can Am, I love it and I continue to learn. Gary
    2016 S6E , Red

  2. #27
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by narygancy View Post
    Thanks Pete. I found another forum thread with some info on this, I plan to check my bike out soon. In the other thread some folks say the bladder loses air every few days, some say no problem at all. I bought it from a smallish female who always rode 1 up, so it wasn't an issue for her. Even using the Kendra there was no problem, only since I replaced the tire. You've been a lot of help. This is my first Can Am, I love it and I continue to learn. Gary
    I probably had to top up every month or so, Gary. I suppose I could have done some thorough checking of the fittings or bag to see where the tiny leak was coming from, but topping up wasn’t a real issue (and I’m lazy ).

    The new tyre per se couldn’t have affected it, unless something happened during install, but you only undo the bottom shock bolt to replace a tyre, and don’t go anywhere near the bag or it’s shraeder valve. Just a quick test to see if it is leaking at the valve….rub some watered down dishwashing liquid around the shraeder valve connection. If you see any bubbles forming, that is where your leak is.

    p.s. what pressure are you running your aftermarket tyre at.? The burning smell is a bit of a worry too…..is the tyre contacting something?

    Pete
    Last edited by Peteoz; 01-03-2023 at 04:18 PM.
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  3. #28
    Member narygancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peteoz View Post
    I probably had to top up every month or so, Gary. I suppose I could have done some thorough checking of the fittings or bag to see where the tiny leak was coming from, but topping up wasn’t a real issue (and I’m lazy ).

    The new tyre per se couldn’t have affected it, unless something happened during install, but you only undo the bottom shock bolt to replace a tyre, and don’t go anywhere near the bag or it’s shraeder valve. Just a quick test to see if it is leaking at the valve….rub some watered down dishwashing liquid around the shraeder valve connection. If you see any bubbles forming, that is where your leak is.

    p.s. what pressure are you running your aftermarket tyre at.? The burning smell is a bit of a worry too…..is the tyre contacting something?

    Pete
    I bought the bike last spring. State inspection for PA was in the fall and it took a new tire so I read the forums and decided on a General Altimax 43 (my garage did the work) at 20 psi.. I could feel the stiffer ride but, no worries. Then I rode 2 up. Like I said, no hard jolts but when I hit a bump there's a 2 sec burst of burning/rubbing rubber. Again, we're not skinny little kids.
    My first hypothesis was that the stiffer sidewall doesn't "give" as much as the Kendra so it briefly touches the fender at bumps, but now I know I can adjust the suspension a bit.
    When I rode on 2 wheels I knew my bike and how to adjust the shock. This is still new to me and that's why I appreciate all the advice. For now baby is under her blanket (cover) and on a tender, but when I get a chance I'll pull off the cover and the seat to check things out.
    Thanks again, Gary
    2016 S6E , Red

  4. #29
    Member narygancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peteoz View Post
    Yes, there is access to the shraeder valve under the seat on the ‘16 F3 Touring models, narygancy. I have sold my F3 so I can’t remember exactly where, unfortunately. If you remove the rear seat first, you may see the valve. If you can’t see it, remove the front seat (2 small bolts at rear of seat…….but keep a magnet on them or you may drop them into the black hole). You will definitely see the shraeder valve then.

    I’m 300lbs and was running at 75lbs…..but there is a formula in the operators manual, and on a plaque on the body (I think it is on the left side, below the seat??). Hopefully someone with more thorough knowledge will chime in shortly

    Pete
    Many, many thanks to all my new Ryder friends in this forum. Yesterday, in PA, it was mid-50's and sun, so I broke baby out of her covers, pulled the tender, and we made an ice cream run. Before hand I checked under the passenger seat, found the schrader valve, and found out the pressure was 0 (zero). That explains a lot. I pumped it up to 60 psi and rode 2-up with no problems! This morning, before packing baby away again, I checked and the pressure is about 50 psi (could be because of the cold?). At least now I know what to look for.
    Thanks for all the advice. After 50+ years of riding 2 wheels I'm still learning how to work with a Spyder.
    2016 S6E , Red

  5. #30
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by narygancy View Post
    I pumped it up to 60 psi and rode 2-up with no problems! This morning, before packing baby away again, I checked and the pressure is about 50 psi (could be because of the cold?).
    Most likely a leak. Check the Schrader valve first, then all connections. Last, and most difficult, check for leaks in the air bag. There are a lot of discussions here about air bag leaks.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  6. #31
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by narygancy View Post
    Many, many thanks to all my new Ryder friends in this forum. Yesterday, in PA, it was mid-50's and sun, so I broke baby out of her covers, pulled the tender, and we made an ice cream run. Before hand I checked under the passenger seat, found the schrader valve, and found out the pressure was 0 (zero). That explains a lot. I pumped it up to 60 psi and rode 2-up with no problems! This morning, before packing baby away again, I checked and the pressure is about 50 psi (could be because of the cold?). At least now I know what to look for.
    Thanks for all the advice. After 50+ years of riding 2 wheels I'm still learning how to work with a Spyder.
    with IMS ( above ) I don't think the Temp would have that much of an effect ... 10 lbs in one day ??? ... I think you have a leak in the system .... first check to make the sure the screw in valve inside the Schrader valve is tight .... if it is you need to start spraying soapy water on the parts to find the leak .... GOOD LUCK .... Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 01-06-2023 at 03:53 PM.

  7. #32
    Active Member Smokes's Avatar
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    I find that when disconnecting the air hose from that valve I lose enough air to drop the rear end an inch or so. The airbag is so small that it doesn't take much to lose what pressure you've just put in, just by removing the air hose. Any ideas?

    What I would like is an adaptor containing a permanently connected air pressure gauge with a tap so when disconnecting the air hose, no pressure is lost.
    Andrew
    Melbourne Australia
    2016 F3L Spyder

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  8. #33
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smokes View Post
    I find that when disconnecting the air hose from that valve I lose enough air to drop the rear end an inch or so. The airbag is so small that it doesn't take much to lose what pressure you've just put in, just by removing the air hose. Any ideas?

    What I would like is an adaptor containing a permanently connected air pressure gauge with a tap so when disconnecting the air hose, no pressure is lost.
    That's too much air loss, unless you're taking a minute to get the hose fitting off the valve instead of just a second or so?!

    It sounds like you have no valve inside the threaded Schraeder casing at all, or maybe more likely the valve in there is defective/not seated properly & so is leaking out more air than it should/quicker than it should??

    Do you know how to use some spit to check the valve for leaks; have & know how to use a valve tool so you can back it out a tad & re-seat it before checking for leaks again; & maybe a spare/new valve to replace the one in there if the old one won't re-seat & seal properly??

    Failing all that working for you, maybe you need a Quick-release fitting on the end of your air hose?? You shouldn't lose more than maybe a pound or so of pressure during the release process; any more air pressure loss than that, there's something wrong, or going wrong during your air hose release...
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  9. #34
    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    My OEM Kenda at about 6,000 miles.

    Plenty tread on the sholders, center almost slick.

    Replaced with Kumho All Season.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2019 F3-S , Black & Silver

  10. #35
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwolf View Post
    My OEM Kenda at about 6,000 miles.

    Plenty tread on the sholders, center almost slick.

    Replaced with Kumho All Season.
    Yep, that's the norm!

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  11. #36
    Active Member Dave7691's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RapidSpyder View Post
    Only have one ride in since I got it but really like the wet surface traction.

    Hi thinking on getting the same tire for my F3 how do you like it ?
    2015 F3S , silver

  12. #37
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smokes View Post
    I find that when disconnecting the air hose from that valve I lose enough air to drop the rear end an inch or so. The airbag is so small that it doesn't take much to lose what pressure you've just put in, just by removing the air hose. Any ideas?

    What I would like is an adaptor containing a permanently connected air pressure gauge with a tap so when disconnecting the air hose, no pressure is lost.
    Andrew, I found similar results when using a battery operated pump. I’m not really sure why, as the pump heads take the same amount of time to remove from the shraeder? The bag is only very small. I switched to a small push bike pump and only lost a couple of psi. The manual does say not to use a powered pump on the bag due to its small size.

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  13. #38
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    with IMS ( above ) I don't think the Temp would have that much of an effect ... 10 lbs in one day ??? ... I think you have a leak in the system .... first check to make the sure the screw in valve inside the Schrader valve is tight .... if it is you need to start spraying soapy water on the parts to find the leak .... GOOD LUCK .... Mike
    X3 Soapy water is where I would start just to see if there is a leak. For the most part you should be able to set it and forget it. I only check mine once a season when I bring it iut in the spring and do my oil changes and fluid checks. If the bag was run at 0 pressure, I would check the bag really well you may have pinched a hole in it, soapy water is your friend.
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  14. #39
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    I run the same brand tire on our Spyders as Rapidspyder does.
    Started with my F3s and liked it so much I had them (all three) installed on my wife's F3l. She was amazed at how much smoother and better handling her F3 was. When we traded her F3 in for her RT we had the dealer switch out the tires. Got around 36,000 miles on her back tire - it should have been sooner, it still had tread, but thinner than I like. Mine will soon have 30,000 miles on it and I will replace it.
    So far of all the different brands of tires I have run (6) on our Spyders (over 200,000 miles combined) these have been the best for handling dry and wet roads as well while providing a smooth ride with outstanding mileage.
    Last edited by PW2013STL; 03-14-2023 at 09:42 AM.
    2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL

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    2015 F3S , White & Blue

  15. #40
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    I had the same problem as the original poster with the stock rear Kenda.
    The interior of the tire was on the wear bars and the outside looked brand new.
    My wife always rides with me and we ran the recommended tire pressure at 28psi.
    I just replaced the Kenda with only 4,500 miles on it and replaced it with a Kumho at 20psi.
    2015 F3S
    2022 Suzuki Hayabusa
    2022 Kawaski KLX300

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