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Dynamic Driving Light Kit - Hooking to Hi Beams Question - 2019 RTL
Mini review - Complications and Question
Item # Description
SM14652 TricLED Dynamic Driving Light Kit for the Can-Am Spyder F3 & RT Models (2019+)
Love the results but it took a while to get there, and it’s not finished yet.
The kit as it comes should be for 2020+RT not a 2019. As shipped it will not allow full steering throw on a 2019 RT.
Pictures below. First pic is per instructions. Second is reversing part of the bracket and it got better but still hit the body before full steering throw. Third is after they supplied an additional set of brackets.
Breaking this down into 3 messages due to picture count. Main question in message 3.
Location as directed in instructions
Interferance.jpg
Top bracket reversed
Interferance2.jpg
Final with additional bracket
Final.jpg
All Lights ON
front.jpg
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Difference in lighting.
Low beams
low beam.jpg
Hi beams
high beam.jpg
Hi with fog
lo-hi-fog.jpg
Hi, Fog and Driving
all.jpg
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The driving lights are controlled from an additional switch. What I would like to do is have a relay after the switch that is controlled by the hi beams. That way I could have the driving lights always off or if I turned the switch on the they would come on or off with the Hi beams. What is the best way to activate the relay based on the condition of the Hi beams? Don't want to mess something up.
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Originally Posted by EdMat
The driving lights are controlled from an additional switch. What I would like to do is have a relay after the switch that is controlled by the hi beams. That way I could have the driving lights always off or if I turned the switch on the they would come on or off with the Hi beams. What is the best way to activate the relay based on the condition of the Hi beams? Don't want to mess something up.
Connect to the wire that feeds the shutter. The bulb has only one filament. You get high beam by activating the shutter. If you haven't already, get a copy of the service manual for about $30. It has a wiring diagram. www.canammanuals.com.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
Connect to the wire that feeds the shutter. The bulb has only one filament. You get high beam by activating the shutter. If you haven't already, get a copy of the service manual for about $30. It has a wiring diagram. www.canammanuals.com.
That's what I thought, but wanted to make sure it would not cause a problem if I tapped into it. Hate to drop all lighting on a backroad on a moonless night.
Have you tapped into that wire?
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Check the laws of the state you are in, some require driving/aux lights off if the high beam is on.
2020 F3 SE6
Safety and Lighting: LED Headlight upgrade, IPS LED Fog lights, Show Chrome LED Fender Signals, LED Signature Light, Tric LED Afterburnerz, MotoHorn 2.0
Suspension: Wilbers Front and Rear Shocks, BajaRon Sway Bar, Vredestein Quatrac Front and Rear Tires
Comfort: Blue Ridge Windshield, Corbin Dual Touring Saddle, Ultimate Floorboards, OEM Passenger Backrest with Rear Shelf, OEM Passenger Floorboards Modified with High Risers from Pierre
Tackform Center Mount Phone Holder w/ rapid charging USB-C.
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Originally Posted by CloverHillCrawler
Check the laws of the state you are in, some require driving/aux lights off if the high beam is on.
That's one of the reasons for having the switch before the relay.
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Originally Posted by CloverHillCrawler
Check the laws of the state you are in, some require driving/aux lights off if the high beam is on.
The use of shutters for hi/lo beam complicates achieving that, particularly when you want to have it such that in a failure mode the default is off.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by EdMat
That's what I thought, but wanted to make sure it would not cause a problem if I tapped into it. Hate to drop all lighting on a backroad on a moonless night.
Have you tapped into that wire?
No, but I have tapped into the other headlight wires to install a modulator. The headlight circuit is one of the few circuits on the Spyder that is pretty much plain old fashioned plain wire, switch, relay, fuse type of circuit. The relays that control the headlights are driven by the computers, but the power side is old fashioned electrical design.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
Connect to the wire that feeds the shutter. The bulb has only one filament. You get high beam by activating the shutter. If you haven't already, get a copy of the service manual for about $30. It has a wiring diagram. www.canammanuals.com.
I was going to mention this. Very good advise. The shutter system completely eliminates the classic Hi-Beam, Low-Beam configuration. But still allows for a circuit which should do exactly what you're looking for. It will be a very nice touch. Having auxiliary Hi-Beam lights that are on or off all the time is a hassle. As would be a separate switch which necessitates having to flip every time an oncoming vehicle is encountered. This is why many auxiliary light kits are Fog and not Driving beams.
I would think you could tap into the back of the Hi-Low Bean switch on the handlebars. There shouldn't be enough additional draw there to crate any issues.
I like the way you think on this one, EdMat!
Last edited by BajaRon; 12-25-2022 at 02:58 PM.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
I was going to mention this. Very good advise. The shutter system completely eliminates the classic Hi-Beam, Low-Beam configuration. But still allows for a circuit which should do exactly what you're looking for. It will be a very nice touch. Having auxiliary Hi-Beam lights that are on or off all the time is a hassle. As would be a separate switch which necessitates having to flip every time an oncoming vehicle is encountered. This is why many auxiliary light kits are Fog and not Driving beams.
I would think you could tap into the back of the Hi-Low Bean switch on the handlebars. There shouldn't be enough additional draw there to crate any issues.
I like the way you think on this one, EdMat!
Yes, out here in Oz, we are only allowed to power our driving (spot) lights when high beam is on and they must have a separate switch, Ron. Because we have two separate lights for high and low beam, that meant I could get the feed from the low beam cable (the high beam cable is very difficult to access), and through the “miracle of modern science”, (being my Neutrino intelligent fuse box), I was able to allow a feed to the spot lights only when there was zero draw through the low beam cable. It worked a treat. I suppose that following the “letter of the law”, that cabling method is illegal, but hey…………
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Originally Posted by Peteoz
Yes, out here in Oz, we are only allowed to power our driving (spot) lights when high beam is on and they must have a separate switch, Ron. Because we have two separate lights for high and low beam, that meant I could get the feed from the low beam cable (the high beam cable is very difficult to access), and through the “miracle of modern science”, (being my Neutrino intelligent fuse box), I was able to allow a feed to the spot lights only when there was zero draw through the low beam cable. It worked a treat. I suppose that following the “letter of the law”, that cabling method is illegal, but hey…………
Pete
Are you saying that your Spyder does not use the shutter system? But 2 separate headlight beams?
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Here is what I have in mind. I don't see a need to have the driving lights on unless the high beams are also on. I also wanted a way to cut them off without having to hit the high beam and driving light switches separately.
2022-12-25_16-08-47.jpg
Last edited by EdMat; 12-25-2022 at 05:17 PM.
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-25-2022 at 06:29 PM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Exactly!!
Maybe recognising that fundamental difference between our lighting systems will help you understand why our Oz spec Lo Beam lights are so pitiful (think of it being like you running on just your Fog Lights! ) But then, our OEM Hi Beam lights aren't all that great either - well, not for doing anything except maybe Possum Spotting in the trees just ahead, cos there's little real distance to the beam & absofreakinlutely NO sideways spread of the Hi Beam at all!?!
Can you manually adjust your high beams the same way we can up here with our North American spyders? Just wondering.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Exactly!!
We get Hi Beams ONLY from the Upper Headlight Assemblies - where you have those single filament globes with a shutter arrangement, we just have a single filament Hi Beam globe & no shutter! I believe that's the case for all AUS/EU Spec RT's too - that shutter system is apparently a 'North American Spec' Spyder RT ONLY thing...
Our Lo Beam lights are provided by the single filament globes fitted in the Lower Light Assemblies where your US Spec Fog Lights go - so on the 2010 thru 2019 RT's here in Oz, there is NO facility for on-board OEM Fog Lights, cos that's where our Lo Beam Lights are situated! I don't know about the 2020+ RT's yet, so can't say about them - I haven't fitted/upgraded any lights on them so far...
Maybe recognising that fundamental difference between our lighting systems will help you understand why our Oz spec Lo Beam lights are so pitiful (think of it being like you running on just your Fog Lights! ) But then, our OEM Hi Beam lights aren't all that great either - well, not for doing anything except maybe Possum Spotting in the trees just ahead, cos there's little real distance to the beam & absofreakinlutely NO sideways spread of the Hi Beam at all!?!
Every model from the 1st Spyder to today has a shuttered headlight system. It's not just an RT thing. I am not able to find a separate headlight assembly for Australia. It used to list the different part numbers in the BRP OEM catalog for variations for different countries.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Originally Posted by 2dogs
Can you manually adjust your high beams the same way we can up here with our North American spyders? Just wondering.
In 'from the factory' condition, AUS Spec Spyders get to manually adjust both Hi & Lo Beams Up & Down by the 2 brass knurled nuts down on each side of the frame supports under the tupperware; a knurled nut for each of the Hi & Lo Left headlight assemblies on the Left, another pair for the Right Hi/Lo pair of light assemblies over on the Right side, with their In & Out adjustment enabled by the individual Assembly mounting bolts; but due to the way they mount, the Hi's really only have useful adjustment movement Up & Down, they really don't have very much useful In & Out adjustment; while the Lo's do have some useful In & Out adjustment.... but due to how close those lights actually are to the ground, they really aren't much chop as Lo beam headlights anyway, being much better suited to Fog lights than they are to Lo beam - except that's all we've got, so we hafta make do!! Why they didn't just give us twin filament globes with proper adjustment screw fittings in the Upper HeadLight Assemblies is beyond me?!
Originally Posted by BajaRon
Every model from the 1st Spyder to today has a shuttered headlight system. It's not just an RT thing. I am not able to find a separate headlight assembly for Australia. It used to list the different part numbers in the BRP OEM catalog for variations for different countries.
I'm pretty sure that none of the AUS Spec Spyders have ever had the shutter type Hi/Lo selectors, and going from what I've seen on Spyders in both NZ & Europe, it looks like the same applies to them - I believe that it's ONLY the North American Spec Spyders that get or ever had that Shutter System.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-26-2022 at 12:55 AM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
Every model from the 1st Spyder to today has a shuttered headlight system. It's not just an RT thing. I am not able to find a separate headlight assembly for Australia. It used to list the different part numbers in the BRP OEM catalog for variations for different countries.
The parts catalog for 2018 RT, Section 10 - Electrical Accessories, Item #6000, shows the part numbers for N America and Australia. Another way to see clearly the difference is look at the wiring diagram. You will see alternate connections labeled for NA and Australia & Europe.
You are looking at https://epc.brp.com, right?
For 2023 RT Limited they have separate catalogs for each color and country. For the F3 they even one identified for China.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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I am in Australia.
This is interesting. The Can-Am dealership where I have mine serviced installed the electrics for my extra lights. They installed the switch I provided (A waterproof Can-Am clone I bought/installed myself). They chose to not connect to the lighting circuit at all - mine can only operate by the switch - not the way I would have preferred. When I asked, the tech said they get too many Spyders back with Canbus issues due to tapping into the lighting circuit.
Our low beams are atrocious. I have wondered how to determine how my Canbus Bypass relay would cope with the lights (Baja Design S2 Pro combo's). My relay powers the 622 Trailer and my cameras.
Anyone know from these specs:
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-26-2022 at 03:31 AM.
Reason: realy - relay ;-)
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Not to hijack the thread, shut me down if this seems off topic but with the discussion of the shutter system and how abhorrent it is I thought I would bring this up.
At slingmods and kemimoto store on Amazon, Kemimoto offers a led headlight assembly for the F3 models that has a separate led high beam and DRL.
Supposedly it is plug and play I was wondering if anybody had tried these as a solution to the eliminating the shutter altogether?
If I should start another thread about this kindly kill my post and send me a pm so I know to do so.
I was thinking of ordering some of these as I really do not like the high beam or the so called imitation of it.
https://slingshot-accessories.com/pr...ights-and-drl/
https://www.amazon.com/Kemimoto-Head...9Q38D8Y6&psc=1
Last edited by CloverHillCrawler; 12-27-2022 at 11:54 AM.
2020 F3 SE6
Safety and Lighting: LED Headlight upgrade, IPS LED Fog lights, Show Chrome LED Fender Signals, LED Signature Light, Tric LED Afterburnerz, MotoHorn 2.0
Suspension: Wilbers Front and Rear Shocks, BajaRon Sway Bar, Vredestein Quatrac Front and Rear Tires
Comfort: Blue Ridge Windshield, Corbin Dual Touring Saddle, Ultimate Floorboards, OEM Passenger Backrest with Rear Shelf, OEM Passenger Floorboards Modified with High Risers from Pierre
Tackform Center Mount Phone Holder w/ rapid charging USB-C.
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If I had an F3 I think I would be looking at it. Thanks for bringing it up CloverHillCrawler.
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YW, I also just noticed that Tricled also sells an led no shutter assembly for the F3/s/t/ltd as well. Nothing for RT's though that I can find so far.
Last edited by CloverHillCrawler; 12-28-2022 at 12:17 AM.
2020 F3 SE6
Safety and Lighting: LED Headlight upgrade, IPS LED Fog lights, Show Chrome LED Fender Signals, LED Signature Light, Tric LED Afterburnerz, MotoHorn 2.0
Suspension: Wilbers Front and Rear Shocks, BajaRon Sway Bar, Vredestein Quatrac Front and Rear Tires
Comfort: Blue Ridge Windshield, Corbin Dual Touring Saddle, Ultimate Floorboards, OEM Passenger Backrest with Rear Shelf, OEM Passenger Floorboards Modified with High Risers from Pierre
Tackform Center Mount Phone Holder w/ rapid charging USB-C.
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Originally Posted by CloverHillCrawler
YW, I also just noticed that Tricled also sells an led no shutter assembly for the F3/s/t/ltd as well. Nothing for RT's though that I can find so far.
That's because the F3 has always used a dual filament Hi/Lo beam headlight and not the shutter system.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
That's because the F3 has always used a dual filament Hi/Lo beam headlight and not the shutter system.
2020 F3 SE6
Safety and Lighting: LED Headlight upgrade, IPS LED Fog lights, Show Chrome LED Fender Signals, LED Signature Light, Tric LED Afterburnerz, MotoHorn 2.0
Suspension: Wilbers Front and Rear Shocks, BajaRon Sway Bar, Vredestein Quatrac Front and Rear Tires
Comfort: Blue Ridge Windshield, Corbin Dual Touring Saddle, Ultimate Floorboards, OEM Passenger Backrest with Rear Shelf, OEM Passenger Floorboards Modified with High Risers from Pierre
Tackform Center Mount Phone Holder w/ rapid charging USB-C.
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Dynamic Driving Light Kit - Hooking to Hi Beams Question - 2019 RTL
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