Replacing 2021 front rotors/brakes - lube the pad pins too?

[arkyleo]

Finally got tired of the left front wheel hop when braking --only between 30-45. I tried removing the rotor and sanding it on a mirror with various grits, but that didn't fix it, so I ordered new rotors and pads from LaMonster. The install looks pretty simple but I have not seen anyone mention lubing the pad pins. I have always done this (with the proper lube of course). My guess is that if the pins are clean and not corroded, it's probably not necessary. My BMW RT's needed the pins lubed or the first brake pull was a long one due to the pads not re-positioning correctly

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Finally got tired of the left front wheel hop when braking --only between 30-45. I tried removing the rotor and sanding it on a mirror with various grits, but that didn't fix it, so I ordered new rotors and pads from LaMonster. The install looks pretty simple but I have not seen anyone mention lubing the pad pins. I have always done this (with the proper lube of course). My guess is that if the pins are clean and not corroded, it's probably not necessary. My BMW RT's needed the pins lubed or the first brake pull was a long one due to the pads not re-positioning correctly

Well IMHO the lube, either high temp grease or Copper Anti-seize - not only Lubes , but also helps prevent Corrosion...... good luck .... Mike

[Woodenfish]

You would be doing yourself a great disservice if you did not lubricate the caliper pins with silicone brake grease after cleaning them. Lubricating the pad backing plate and any point that might touch the pad slide boss should always be done with the same grease. The only problem or really question I have is why the brake replacement? I don’t understand “wheel hop” and how that could be traced to the brakes. Unless there is excessive pad wear or the brake rotors have developed excess lateral runout I don’t get the need to replace them.

[arkyleo]

You would be doing yourself a great disservice if you did not lubricate the caliper pins with silicone brake grease after cleaning them. Lubricating the pad backing plate and any point that might touch the pad slide boss should always be done with the same grease. The only problem or really question I have is why the brake replacement? I don’t understand “wheel hop” and how that could be traced to the brakes. Unless there is excessive pad wear or the brake rotors have developed excess lateral runout I don’t get the need to replace them.

Thanks--as I mentioned--I have always done the pin/pad lube, but for some reason none of the you-tubers did. The "wheel hop" is actually a slight vibration on applying the brakes and does not do it otherwise. One of the reasons may have been uneven overtorquing of the lug nuts by the mechanic who balanced the front wheels and possibly warped the rotor (was not me and I won't say who). I had to use a 1/2 " breakover with a pipe to get them loose. Hope these EBC rotors and pads fixes it.

[Woodenfish]

We don’t always know the background or training a YouTube creator has received so I always take that into consideration. You would need a dial indicator to measure that rotor runout. Good luck to you in your repair. You seem to have it as if this isn’t your first rodeo.

[Isopedella]

I am a bit surprised nobody has mentioned cleaning the pucks while your in there. Why do 1/2 a job?
Plenty of info available on you tube about brake maintenance and stuff.
Hint Brake clean, toothbrush and lubing the pucks.

Should be an annual tick the box item, specially where salt is laid on the road.

NOBRAINER

I put this up for those who want to do the whole job.
I do push the pucks out, almost to popping out and apply Red Rubber Grease to them then refit.

Heads up. There are no coowell dudes with long beards, no rubber gloves, no rattle guns and at times not very PC
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNz00OTRLzM

[arkyleo]

I am a bit surprised nobody has mentioned cleaning the pucks while your in there. Why do 1/2 a job?
Plenty of info available on you tube about brake maintenance and stuff.
Hint Brake clean, toothbrush and lubing the pucks.

Should be an annual tick the box item, specially where salt is laid on the road.

NOBRAINER

I put this up for those who want to do the whole job.
I do push the pucks out, almost to popping out and apply Red Rubber Grease to them then refit.

Heads up. There are no coowell dudes with long beards, no rubber gloves, no rattle guns and at times not very PC
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNz00OTRLzM

Interesting and informative video! I have all the new parts (rotors and pads) and the pin lube and brake cleaner--so when it snows or gets too cold (for me) to ride I will do the install. In regards to you tube videos--some of them are really sketchy, out of focus and incorrect. One guy even let his bike fall off the jacks and POSTED it. Didn't finish watching that one .

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Interesting and informative video! I have all the new parts (rotors and pads) and the pin lube and brake cleaner--so when it snows or gets too cold (for me) to ride I will do the install. In regards to you tube videos--some of them are really sketchy, out of focus and incorrect. One guy even let his bike fall off the jacks and POSTED it. Didn't finish watching that one .

110% about " be very careful of the accuracy of the vids on U-tube " some of them are quite wrong ..... JMHO .... Mike

[Woodenfish]

Like in this video where he states the spring in the master cylinder draws the brake fluid back into the reservoir after releasing the brake lever. That’s just not how it works. While releasing the brake lever the spring helps move the master cylinder shuttle valves back to their normal position which exposes a compensation port to the reservoir. The brake fluid now can be pushed back into the reservoir with the aid of the square cut seals sealing the floating caliper piston. This creates a minimal clearance in releasing the brake pad from grabbing the rotor. This minimal clearance is why you need to pump the brakes up several times to restore the proper working distance of the pad. Without doing so you will have no braking which could lead to a crash.

Also while servicing any fluid or using a cleaner or wire brush you really should be wearing protective gloves and safety glasses. While servicing brakes or working with rust removal you should be wearing a dust mask. The video shows the gentleman cleaning his brake pads of debris around the edges and in the slot. Not all brake pads have this slot and it’s only used due to the pad material of choice by the engineer for best stopping and noise reduction.

While operating the vehicle in wet conditions and applying the brakes a vapor buildup can occur between the pad and surface of the rotor. This slot helps that vapor dissipate and remove brake noise. Sometimes a brake pad may even have a chamfer cut into the leading and trailing edge which is to help with vibration. Finally the brake pad backing plates and guide pins should be thinly coated with a specific silicone brake grease to aid in movement, reduce noise and rust buildup. Anti-seize lubricant products should not be used on brake parts or on wheel lug bolts or nuts. It can cause contamination of the brake linings by its ability to spread or over-torquing of the wheel lugs.

[SportsterDoc]

Years ago, eldest son-in-law and I did a parking lot replacement of front brake pads on a 87 Accord coming back from a family vacation.
One pad was like new and the other worn to metal.
The caliper could not float, as the pins were dry.
+1 on suggestions to lubricate.

[Jetfixer]

My 2 cents worth here. There is no mention of adding ANY form of lubricant to these pins in the factory service manuals. But as anyone on the internet will tell you, the guys that designed and built these machines don't have a clue what they are doing, and someone else on social media (of any form) always knows what is best for you.

BTW, the US FAA would likely yank my mechanics license if I got caught arbitrarily adding ANY lubricant to ANY hardware that the manufacturer (Boeing, Airbus, Embraer, etc) did not specify for that particular hardware. But these are just street bikes, right?

[Knizar]

My 2 cents worth here. There is no mention of adding ANY form of lubricant to these pins in the factory service manuals. But as anyone on the internet will tell you, the guys that designed and built these machines don't have a clue what they are doing, and someone else on social media (of any form) always knows what is best for you.

BTW, the US FAA would likely yank my mechanics license if I got caught arbitrarily adding ANY lubricant to ANY hardware that the manufacturer (Boeing, Airbus, Embraer, etc) did not specify for that particular hardware. But these are just street bikes, right?

I consider mine an AirBus, gets me where I wanna go, and with plenty of air! But I do hear what your saying Jetfixer!

[BajaRon]

Lube the pins, slides, and anything that needs to move freely. But only where it slides against another surface. More is NOT Better! Use a VERY THIN film of Anti-Seize (I prefer the copper version, though I don't think it will make any difference in this application)

If the caliper and parts cannot float freely, they will bind and you can get uneven braking and wear one of the two pads prematurely. This will, many times, also cost you a rotor as most people don't catch the issue soon enough.

If you were flying an F-14 and it did not call for this. I'd say go with the manufacturer. But for a land based vehicle. The worse case scenario will be attracting a bit more debris. But it will be lubricated debris. And you'll still be better off.

I'm not calling the BRP engineers stupid or incompetent here. You have to remember that in Big Corp,, there are many layers separating the final product from the original engineering.

In the end, it's your ride. Do what you think best.

[Woodenfish]

My 2 cents worth here. There is no mention of adding ANY form of lubricant to these pins in the factory service manuals. But as anyone on the internet will tell you, the guys that designed and built these machines don't have a clue what they are doing, and someone else on social media (of any form) always knows what is best for you.

BTW, the US FAA would likely yank my mechanics license if I got caught arbitrarily adding ANY lubricant to ANY hardware that the manufacturer (Boeing, Airbus, Embraer, etc) did not specify for that particular hardware. But these are just street bikes, right?

This isn’t the same thing or related in any way to an airplane. Manufacturers of motorcycles, automobiles and other equipment don’t use lubricants on brake parts but often times the dealership technicians are trained by the manufacturer to do this as a best practices method when servicing and they even manufacture the specific grease.

[Jetfixer]

The service manuals are very clear as to where and what type lubricants to use on these machines. As Ron stated above, adding lubricant (in any quantity) will attract and hold dirt and debris. This will consist mostly of the brake dust that we all try to clean off our wheels. The build-up of this debris will become abrasive and cause wear on the pins. (brake pads start off life as friction material don't they?) It's better to do regular cleaning to remove this debris.