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Brp can’t/wont fix my Spyder! Any thoughts?
Two summers ago I lost my cruise control. Waited for switchgear. Dealer changed it. No difference. Then got limp home mode. Check DPS and VSS on guage. Dealer changed VSM module. No difference. Dealer has a hard time getting through to BRP and they are not being helpful, just asking to check things my guy has already checked. Any thoughts out there? 2011 998 RTS with 65,000 km.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-04-2022 at 05:02 PM.
Reason: Expanded Title to briefly ask the question ;-)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Summersnowmobile
Two summers ago I lost my cruise control. Waited for switchgear. Dealer changed it. No difference. Then got limp home mode. Check DPS and VSS on guage. Dealer changed VSM module. No difference. Dealer has a hard time getting through to BRP and they are not being helpful, just asking to check things my guy has already checked. Any thoughts out there? 2011 998 RTS with 65,000 km.
If your mechanic is waiting for BRP to diagnose the bike remotely, you are at the wrong shop. Especially with an older bike. You need to find a mechanic that KNOWS the older Spyders and can diagnose on his own using service manuals and diagrams. No small order I know. But your bike will not get fixed using a mechanic that does not know how.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-04-2022 at 05:03 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
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Originally Posted by Summersnowmobile
Two summers ago I lost my cruise control. Waited for switchgear. Dealer changed it. No difference. Then got limp home mode. Check DPS and VSS on guage. Dealer changed VSM module. No difference. Dealer has a hard time getting through to BRP and they are not being helpful, just asking to check things my guy has already checked. Any thoughts out there? 2011 998 RTS with 65,000 km.
This is an authized dealership with certified Spyder mechanic? It doesn't sound like it.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Originally Posted by Summersnowmobile
Two summers ago I lost my cruise control. Waited for switchgear. Dealer changed it. No difference. Then got limp home mode. Check DPS and VSS on guage. Dealer changed VSM module. No difference. Dealer has a hard time getting through to BRP and they are not being helpful, just asking to check things my guy has already checked. Any thoughts out there? 2011 998 RTS with 65,000 km.
If the dealer &/or techs are having this much trouble, then I'm not all that sure I'd be trusting them to have diagnosed the Cruise Control issue correctly in the first place.... Sure, it might be obvious that it's not working, but who decided it needed new switchgear to get it sorted?!? This juuust might be starting to sound like a broken record from me to some here, but I've got a V-Twin Spyder that's had similar issues & I've seen quite a few other like aged Spyders with similar issues that all sheeted home to juuust the ONE thing.... so I'd ask - how old is your Spyder's battery & how was it being maintained before all this started?? What about since it's been sitting & waiting for switchgear, has it been on a battery maintainer, or just sitting there?? Anyone checked &/or recharged/replaced the battery before trying to operate it again after all that waiting??
These 998 V-Twins are all getting on a bit in age now, and even if it's had a battery replacement at some stage, they do tend to have a parasitic power loss over time, especially if it's been left just sitting; and even more especially if it hasn't had an active battery maintenance program during this sitting period, the battery could be telling you it's old, tired, dying, or all of the above - and possibly any/all of this has been masked if not hidden by a battery tender too!! Just some of the issues a low battery can result in on a V-Twin include things like Limp Home Mode; DPS issues/failures; VSS warnings, etc, etc, etc; and any of them in their turn could well mean that even tho you might happen to get your Spyder running, your Cruise Control still might not work..... :banhghead:
So, has anyone checked to see how old the battery in your Spyder might be?? And regardless of its age, even if it IS brand new (did it get a full & proper charge before installation??) has anyone ever &/or recently done a proper load check on it, or at least used a multi-meter to check that it's even vaguely within the right ball park to let it work your Spyder and all the power hungry things like DPS & VSS that could be contributing if not actually causing all this??
Just Sayin'
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-04-2022 at 11:15 PM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Had the same issue. I bent the brake light switch bracket a bit and that fixed it
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by erks1
Had the same issue. I bent the brake light switch bracket a bit and that fixed it
Are you saying that the Spyder believed the brake was being applied and shut off Cruise Control, Erks ?
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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The brake light works normally going off and on with the pedal. However, when hooked up to buds the computer is reading that the brake is on regardless of what’s happening with the brake light.
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Very Active Member
I think you have just found the problem.....
2005 Windveil Blue Premium Mustang Convertible
2008 Honda GL1800/California Sidecar Trike, SOLD
2014 Platinum Silver Satin Spyder RTL, SOLD
Semper Fi
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Yes. That’s the problem for sure. Trouble is we don’t know how to fix it
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Very Active Member
Check for crud on or in the brake actuator lever. Anything preventing the lever from full contact can cause the bike to not have cruise control (because the brakes are read as being on), or to go into limp mode.
I had this issue with my 2008 GS and one of our friends who visited AK in 2010 had the "limp mode" issues. Riding the AK highway in unpaved places during the rain caused "glacial till" to coat the actuator. It caused a problem similar to riding with the foot on the brake, which will cause the actuator to seem as though the brakes are on. This will eventually kick in the limp mode. Actuator cleaned, problem solved.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Did the brake light behave as normal even with the dirty actuator?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Summersnowmobile
Yes. That’s the problem for sure. Trouble is we don’t know how to fix it��
Now that the problem is known, you refer to the wiring diagrams and diagnose the circuit from the pedal swatch to the ECM to find where the problem is. You now know its in that circuit somewhere.
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Very Active Member
I seem to recall someone having something like this going on and that assembly having a twostep micro switch of some sort and having to clean it or replace it to make it work right!dontknow: good luck, I would dive into that switch assembly if it was me.
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Yes. The cruise control switches off when braking. The signal word is the brake light. If the brake light is on, the cruise control does not work
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