Need advice on adjusting Belt alignment- not tension?!

[Wmoater]

I had my front sprocket cleaned really well for the recall inspection. I then removed my belt and cleaned it really well with dawn soap and applied conditioner. The reason was i was getting a really bad belt squeal. The squeal has gone away completely. For the last 2 days I have really noticed that my belt is now settled in the middle to outside of the rear sprocket. It’s definitely running a bit to far out. Over the Spyder's life I had 2 rear tires put on and when I took my belt off “three times total” no alignment has ever needed to be done. It's always run perfect just about 1-1.5 cards from the inside. I had my son over and I was surprised when the front wheels turned all the way to the right and put in reverse at a sharp turn and he backs up sort of fast the belt slides to the outside edge completely. I realize that it should move a bit but that’s too much, I think. When put in forward and driven down the road it goes back to being perfectly centered on the sprocket. When I installed the belt, I must have had something move just a bit. I was watching the video from Australia where the guy leaves the rear wheel engaged and adjusts the left and right Allen bolts. I believe if I am reading my Krickit the tension is correct. Do I simply loosen the 36mm axle bolt, on the right-side nut till it touches the pin and only adjust the right-side Allen to bring the belt “in” a touch. I shouldn’t have to touch the left side at all correct? I also read on here about tapping a wedge in before tightening the bolt. Can someone verify that I only turn the right Allen if tension is correct and what and where the wooden wedge goes, please. I do run the Lamonster tensioner and have no vibration at all.

[Peter Aawen]

If the belt position is looking OK when driving forwards (as you tell us it is!) and it doesn't run any part of the teeth off either sprocket when reversing, it's likely fine just to leave it as is/alone!

These belts move around A LOT more than most think, ESPECIALLY In Reverse, so don't stress too much if it moves out towards the outside edge of the rear sprocket when reversing, that's something that's effectively common to all Spyders and probably gonna happen anyway!! And if it's not running teeth off the sprockets anywhere when you're Reversing, then chances are that it's perfectly OK to continue riding without adjusting anything for when you're going forwards!

[Wmoater]

I agree peter. I know it moves especially in reverse. Just to me, It has always been about a credit card from inside flange and for sure it is now centered now about 2-3 credit cards maybe even a touch more now consistently when I stop. In reverse it’s maybe a credit card from the outside edge which I don’t recall that ever being that far over but never really studied it. I’m sure its close and fine but I’d like to play and get it back to where it was if possible. A little bit will not hurt and I have the rest of the winter to play now. If I wanted to fine tune it a bit, to get it closer to the inside flange, is the process I mentioned above correct? Loosen the 36 nut to pin, adjust “only” the right hex and use some wedge when tightening so it doesn’t move? Where and what is this wedge put?

[ButterSmooth]

In for a penny, in for a pound. Once you touch an adjuster you are committed to tweaking everything until the adjustments are correct. Since it's near perfect now, based on the 3-5mm from the flange specification, you will likely regret making changes and will settle for a 'less than perfect' result. I looked through my notes and found at least 10 references to adjusting tension and alignment and every time it was a PIA. I know I can get it right (it's never been easy), but it's a task I don't undertake without good reason.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I had my front sprocket cleaned really well for the recall inspection. I then removed my belt and cleaned it really well with dawn soap and applied conditioner. The reason was i was getting a really bad belt squeal. The squeal has gone away completely. For the last 2 days I have really noticed that my belt is now settled in the middle to outside of the rear sprocket. It’s definitely running a bit to far out. Over the Spyder's life I had 2 rear tires put on and when I took my belt off “three times total” no alignment has ever needed to be done. It's always run perfect just about 1-1.5 cards from the inside. I had my son over and I was surprised when the front wheels turned all the way to the right and put in reverse at a sharp turn and he backs up sort of fast the belt slides to the outside edge completely. I realize that it should move a bit but that’s too much, I think. When put in forward and driven down the road it goes back to being perfectly centered on the sprocket. When I installed the belt, I must have had something move just a bit. I was watching the video from Australia where the guy leaves the rear wheel engaged and adjusts the left and right Allen bolts. I believe if I am reading my Krickit the tension is correct. Do I simply loosen the 36mm axle bolt, on the right-side nut till it touches the pin and only adjust the right-side Allen to bring the belt “in” a touch. I shouldn’t have to touch the left side at all correct? I also read on here about tapping a wedge in before tightening the bolt. Can someone verify that I only turn the right Allen if tension is correct and what and where the wooden wedge goes, please. I do run the Lamonster tensioner and have no vibration at all.

with the above posters ..... Concerning " Belt cleaning " ...... did you read about " Joel the Biker ", and what occurred After He did a through Belt cleaning. ..... Find it and read it, hopefully yours won't have similar results. ...... good luck ....; Mike

[BajaRon]

Adjusting the belt doesn't have to be a pain. I'm not sure what you are referring to with the 'Wedge'. I've never used one. I loosen the axle nut just enough to let the tensioners move it. Leaving it fairly tight helps to keep the axle components (bearings, etc.,) aligned. If you get the axle nut too loose. You really don't know what you have until you tighten it back up and everything re-aligns. Effectively changing your adjustment. Then you have to start all over again. In other works. You get it perfect. Tighten the axle nut, and it's off again. I think this is where people get frustrated.

So, be sure to check your end result once the axle nut is tightened to spec. You should use an accurate torque wrench for this.

Granted, making adjustment to the right side makes a lot less change in tension for the same distance than adjusting the left side. But there will always be a tension change. So, there really is no way to adjust the belt without changing belt tension. One automatically does the other.

Running the rear wheel wile adjusting can make it much easier. But you need to be careful. Don't wear any loose fitting clothing or anything that the tire might catch on.

I suggest pulling the rear wheel sensors if you are spinning the wheel while adjusting belt location. That way you won't throw codes. You should always move the adjusters to pull the axle back. Which means, if you go too far, loosen the adjuster and force the axle forward until the adjuster has tension. You want tension against the adjuster when you finally tighten the axle nut. If the adjuster wiggles (is not under tension) your adjustment will probably not last as the axle will pull until it comes up against the adjuster as you ride.

There is a wide margin for belt tension. So, you may be able to make the adjustment needed without enough tension change to warrant anything but alignment of the belt on the pulley.

Have Fun!