2013 RT SM5 - Clutch not working after oil change - any ideas?

[davehampton]

I had been riding my 2013 Spyder RT SM5 for several months with no problems at all. Then, rather than waiting 2 months for the local Can Am dealer to get to it, I changed the oil myself. I followed the service guidelines explicitly except for the oil. I installed a new OEM oil filter, but opted for an oil from O'Reilly's formulated specifically for motorcycles with wet clutches rather than the XPS brand suggested by BRP. After warming the Spyder up to confirm the oil level I attempted to do a test ride, however; the clutch did not operate properly. It appeared to not be disengaging the engine and it was almost impossible to shift into gear. When I did get it into first gear it killed the engine. My first thought was the oil since that was the only variable from a Spyder with no shifting problems. So I ordered a complete new XPS oil change kit from the Can Am store, drained the oil and new filter I had just installed, and went through the oil change process again with the XPS oil. Unfortunately, I encountered the same shifting problem. The engine runs fine, but when I shift into a gear it kills the engine, like shifting from a dead stop with no clutch activation at all. My fear is the clutch is now toast, but I can't imagine using a highly regarded oil rather than the XPS brand would create such a problem, especially since I didn't even ride the bike after the oil change. The only other shifting related issue I can think of is when removing the fairing I had to depress the shift pedal a couple of times (with the engine off of course) to access a bolt. I presented this conundrum to the dealership service department in Louisville, TN where the Spyder came from, as well as the local dealer. Neither had a clue as to what the problem may be. I thought I would take a shot on the forum to see if anyone else might have a valid suggestion prior to hauling it off to a very expensive service visit. By the way, I have been riding since I was 15 and have eight motorcycles. I have restored and/or customized all of them except this Spyder so I do know a little bit about wrench turning, but this Spyder is quite a different beast. Any help would be vastly appreciated.
Thanks much!!

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I had been riding my 2013 Spyder RT SE5 for several months with no problems at all. Then, rather than waiting 2 months for the local Can Am dealer to get to it, I changed the oil myself. I followed the service guidelines explicitly except for the oil. I installed a new OEM oil filter, but opted for an oil from O'Reilly's formulated specifically for motorcycles with wet clutches rather than the XPS brand suggested by BRP. After warming the Spyder up to confirm the oil level I attempted to do a test ride, however; the clutch did not operate properly. It appeared to not be disengaging the engine and it was almost impossible to shift into gear. When I did get it into first gear it killed the engine. My first thought was the oil since that was the only variable from a Spyder with no shifting problems. So I ordered a complete new XPS oil change kit from the Can Am store, drained the oil and new filter I had just installed, and went through the oil change process again with the XPS oil. Unfortunately, I encountered the same shifting problem. The engine runs fine, but when I shift into a gear it kills the engine, like shifting from a dead stop with no clutch activation at all. My fear is the clutch is now toast, but I can't imagine using a highly regarded oil rather than the XPS brand would create such a problem, especially since I didn't even ride the bike after the oil change. The only other shifting related issue I can think of is when removing the fairing I had to depress the shift pedal a couple of times (with the engine off of course) to access a bolt. I presented this conundrum to the dealership service department in Louisville, TN where the Spyder came from, as well as the local dealer. Neither had a clue as to what the problem may be. I thought I would take a shot on the forum to see if anyone else might have a valid suggestion prior to hauling it off to a very expensive service visit. By the way, I have been riding since I was 15 and have eight motorcycles. I have restored and/or customized all of them except this Spyder so I do know a little bit about wrench turning, but this Spyder is quite a different beast. Any help would be vastly appreciated.
Thanks much!!

.... that XPS is not the only oil that will work in your V-twin. I don't use it either ..... What Exactly did you use for oil. ????? ... it will help us help you ..... Mike .....

[davehampton]

MasterPro Motorcycle oil, synthetic blend 19W-40. oreillyOil.jpg
Sorry...misprint on text should be 10W-40.

[BajaRon]

Did you put the HCM oil filter in backwards?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

MasterPro Motorcycle oil, synthetic blend 19W-40. oreillyOil.jpg
Sorry...misprint on text should be 10W-40.

Thanks ...... I see it's rated JASO 2, so that is good oil ( actually better than XPS ).... I read Ron's post - I don't think it's possible to put it in backward's ( I have the 1330 engine so yours may be different ) ..... Mike

[Bensonoid]

Did you put the HCM oil filter in backwards?

+1on HCM filter backwards.

[davehampton]

I replaced the oil filter not the HCM filter. I admit to ignorance regarding the Spyder mechanics since I have not really explored them in detail. My Spyder has a manual transmission and I was not even sure it had an HCM filter since it was not included in the oil change kit from the Can Am store. Anyway, at this juncture I can't see where an HCM factored in here since I obviously did not touch it. Any ideas??

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I replaced the oil filter not the HCM filter. I admit to ignorance regarding the Spyder mechanics since I have not really explored them in detail. My Spyder has a manual transmission and I was not even sure it had an HCM filter since it was not included in the oil change kit from the Can Am store. Anyway, at this juncture I can't see where an HCM factored in here since I obviously did not touch it. Any ideas??

Just to clarify ..... When you started this Thread the heading says you have a " 2013 Spyder RT SE5 Clutch problem " .... Now you say you have a MANUAL transmission .... An SE5 is a Semi-Auto transmission .... So all of us are now confused ..... Mike

[Knizar]

He mentioned that he has a "shift pedal, must be an SM-5... My bet is that its low on clutch fluid and needs bleeding.

[davehampton]

I would like to apologize to everyone...my mistake when I get in a hurry. The Spyder is an SM5. The clutch bleeding suggestion sounds like a good one, the clutch play is kind of sloppy. I will check it. It just seems weird that would become an issue when it wasn't apparent before the oil change.

[Knizar]

I would like to apologize to everyone...my mistake when I get in a hurry. The Spyder is an SM5. The clutch bleeding suggestion sounds like a good one, the clutch play is kind of sloppy. I will check it. It just seems weird that would become an issue when it wasn't apparent before the oil change.

Probably needs new packings or o-rings in the clutch slave cylinder, If that hasn't been done since purchased. They do wear out!

[Bfromla]

I had been riding my 2013 Spyder RT SE5 for several months with no problems at all. Then, rather than waiting 2 months for the local Can Am dealer to get to it, I changed the oil myself. I followed the service guidelines explicitly except for the oil. I installed a new OEM oil filter, but opted for an oil from O'Reilly's formulated specifically for motorcycles with wet clutches rather than the XPS brand suggested by BRP. After warming the Spyder up to confirm the oil level I attempted to do a test ride, however; the clutch did not operate properly. It appeared to not be disengaging the engine and it was almost impossible to shift into gear. When I did get it into first gear it killed the engine. My first thought was the oil since that was the only variable from a Spyder with no shifting problems. So I ordered a complete new XPS oil change kit from the Can Am store, drained the oil and new filter I had just installed, and went through the oil change process again with the XPS oil. Unfortunately, I encountered the same shifting problem. The engine runs fine, but when I shift into a gear it kills the engine, like shifting from a dead stop with no clutch activation at all. My fear is the clutch is now toast, but I can't imagine using a highly regarded oil rather than the XPS brand would create such a problem, especially since I didn't even ride the bike after the oil change. The only other shifting related issue I can think of is when removing the fairing I had to depress the shift pedal a couple of times (with the engine off of course) to access a bolt. I presented this conundrum to the dealership service department in Louisville, TN where the Spyder came from, as well as the local dealer. Neither had a clue as to what the problem may be. I thought I would take a shot on the forum to see if anyone else might have a valid suggestion prior to hauling it off to a very expensive service visit. By the way, I have been riding since I was 15 and have eight motorcycles. I have restored and/or customized all of them except this Spyder so I do know a little bit about wrench turning, but this Spyder is quite a different beast. Any help would be vastly appreciated.
Thanks much!!

Additionally are you sure what gear are in after Depressing the pedal while doing the change. Could be possibly so far out place to line up gears correctly. Try to find N Hopefully won’t stall there. Also for safety -keep Park brake on.

[davehampton]

Probably needs new packings or o-rings in the clutch slave cylinder, If that hasn't been done since purchased. They do wear out!

Congratulations go to Knizar for his practical genius and boos to me for not thinking of this first. The clutch master cylinder reservoir was practically empty of fluid. A fill and a bleed and it's good to go. I was so focused on the oil change being the only factor in this problem I didn't even look at anything else since it's so rare that two really unconnected issues occur at the same time. I ordered a new gasket seal for the reservoir which should fix the problem long term. Thank you to everyone for chiming in, and again, sorry for the misdirection in the initial post. Next time I'll trust my Spidey Sense

[BajaRon]

Congratulations go to Knizar for his practical genius and boos to me for not thinking of this first. The clutch master cylinder reservoir was practically empty of fluid. A fill and a bleed and it's good to go. I was so focused on the oil change being the only factor in this problem I didn't even look at anything else since it's so rare that two really unconnected issues occur at the same time. I ordered a new gasket seal for the reservoir which should fix the problem long term. Thank you to everyone for chiming in, and again, sorry for the misdirection in the initial post. Next time I'll trust my Spidey Sense

Glad to hear it. It is possible to install the HCM filter backwards on the 998. If it's possible, it's been done. Believe me! And that will give the shift mechanism fits.

It is not even remotely possible to get the HCM filter wrong on the 1330. I see that you list both the SM5 and SE5 in your original post. I didn't catch that. Main thing is that you found and corrected the issue. Congratulations!

[Tonylmiller]

Yes, the faulty cause and effect relationship. We have all fallen for it. Just because two things happen, does not mean that one causes the other.
I would have had the same though process as you. Glad you got it sorted out.

[Tatonka]

Yes, had a undecoverable leak of clutch fluid with a 2013 Rt sm5…. Carried fluid around just in case. finally a $1400.00 rebuild of the entire system solved the problem and runs great

[safecracker]

I am glad you got it corrected. Some one beat me to it. I was going to mention to check clutch reservoir. I have to add brake fluid to mine a couple of times a season. Mine weeps a bit. I should get a new reservoir gasket. Bruce