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  1. #1
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    Default Help Troubleshooting problem with starter/battery?

    Hi all,
    I'm not able to get my 2010 Spyder RT to start. I turn the key, and the dash lights up. But when I push the ignition button, everything goes dark. The battery is on a trickle charger and is testing fine. I've checked the fuses and don't see any problems there. The bike is basically dead. Can anyone help? Any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-02-2022 at 05:30 PM. Reason: Removed Prefix - this is a 'How do I?' not a 'How to:' DIY explanation....

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Load testing fine or just testing on a volt meter? Additionally; age of battery? Good, clean, & tight connections, preferably with star washers
    ECF417D3-07C4-4118-89F6-ADC31F0BA410.jpeg
    fitted between the Copper terminals & Leads on the battery (may drop a few).
    Everything goes dark sound like a load issue - kill switch in the right position, cycle & flip few times back & forth just cuz good luck
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-02-2022 at 05:33 PM.

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    As Bfromia says, “testing fine” is the key here, and your first concern. Is it testing fine “under load”, or are you simply reading the voltage showing on your “trickle charger” (which I hope is actually a battery tender rather than an actual trickle charger…..they do two different things ). It certainly shows symptoms of a bad battery. Get the battery tested under load before anything else.

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Like the last two have said, I hope you have had your battery LOAD TESTED, it's a free service at most auto supply shops now!! And don't forget the star washers when you put in your new battery!! Good Luck!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  5. #5
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    Thanks everyone! And, yes, it's a battery tender. I'll report back after I've done some more probing. Appreciate the help.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    2012 RTL , Pearl

  7. #7
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    Hi all,
    Sorry it took me so long to give an update. Long story short, the bike is running again and I've been able to take a couple of nice fall rides over the past week or so. How exactly I got the bike running is less clear. I took the battery out, and it tested fine (static test). I drove over to my local mechanic but he couldn't load test the battery (although over the phone he'd said he could). What followed was a series of stops at AutoZone and a couple of Indian dealers in Westchester, where I tried to find someone who could either load test the battery or sell me something I could use to do it myself. I also looked for star washers at AutoZone but couldn't find any. It was late in the day on a Saturday when I got home. I was pretty much out of options for the day, so I decided I would put the battery back in the bike and try jump starting it. If that didn't work, I was going to buy a load tester online so I could do it myself. Before connecting the jumper cables, I turned the key just to see what would happen. The bike came to life! It started right up, and I haven't had any problems in the past week or so since. The only thing I can think of was that taking the battery out somehow reset the bike's electrical system and took care of whatever problem it was having. I'd still like to add star washers but don't know where to get them. The ones I found online don't look like the ones in the picture above.
    Thanks again to everyone in this thread for the help.
    Larry

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Washers available just about any place sells hardware or same batteries , & do come inner splines or outer. B144983A-8898-4538-96D9-C5D7ACB56E6C.jpeg(sorry didn’t state that before)does sound like was loose connection -happens all too often & easily missed until issues develop. Thanks for update

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
    SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
    SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
    T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
    brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
    Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
    sawblade mowhalk fender accents
    minispyder dash toy
    Lid lox
    KradelLock
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    GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
    FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
    BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
    SENA 20S EVO
    2013 STL , Stock Stock Black currant

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Next time you have the covers off check both ends of you ground wire to make sure the bike side of that cable is tight!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  10. #10
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lgreenemeier View Post
    The bike came to life! It started right up, and I haven't had any problems in the past week or so since. The only thing I can think of was that taking the battery out somehow reset the bike's electrical system and took care of whatever problem it was having.
    More than likely undoing the cable connections to remove the battery, and redoing them when you put it back in, broke through the corrosion that was preventing good contact between the cable and battery post. Or did you clean all the terminals when you reinstalled the battery? If so, that was what fixed things.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  11. #11
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Bad connections. The first thing I check. It doesn't take much with the Spyder. Which is very voltage sensitive. Glad you found the cure!
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