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  1. #1
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    Default Spyder Overheats at High Speed - any thoughts?

    I have a 2016 F3L that want to run HOT when on the interstates.. Plenty of A/F, fan working but when I'm running 80-85 keeping up with traffic it wants to run real hot.. Any thoughts ??
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-23-2022 at 08:59 AM. Reason: Expanded Title to briefly ask the question ;-)


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    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    What exactly makes you think the Spyder is running hot?
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  3. #3
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    It's probably not really running too hot/overheating - it's most likely just the gauge showing that the temp is now hotter than it was when riding at 50mph, but if the indicator is still anywhere below the H mark, then it's fine! It's the rapid increases until it pegs out well past the beginning of the H zone that you've gotta watch out for!

    And also watch out for those temp gauges that rapidly climb to about half way then never move!! Cos those gauges are almost certainly 'damped' to stop the indicator rising and falling as the engine load & therefore cooling system load increases until the thermostat opens & the temp subsequently drops - manufacturers do this to stop people who don't know any better from complaining about the temperature gauge working properly and showing the continual fluctuation of temp as the engine load increases & falls, causing a continual variation in cooling system temperature as the thermostat opens & shuts &/or the fans spin up or slow down! A properly working un-damped temp gauge WILL show those fluctuations; while a damped gauge WON'T - and the damped gauges probably won't show the rapid temp increase into the danger zone caused by a burst hose, holed radiator/reservoir, or a blown head gasket until it's too late to do anything about it either!
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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    .... and except when my coolant was 16 oz. LOW .... it always reads 4 bars ( 2014 RT ) no matter what the ambient air temp is, or what speed I'm going..... The only thing I think could effect that would be something wrong with the THERMOSTAT .... or totally mud clogged radiators ( which is not a likely occurrence )GOOD LUCK .... Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    What exactly makes you think the Spyder is running hot?
    It goes up to 7 bars on the gauge..


    TJ
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    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    Check your coolant level and also your radiators as they might be clogged by debris.
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  7. #7
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    What's the condition of the coolant? If it hasn't already been done, a 2016 is due for a coolant change.
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    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjranch9 View Post
    It goes up to 7 bars on the gauge..
    OK, good info. That means you are, most likely, overheating. I've not heard of a faulty gauge.

    Many think 5 bars is too hot, which it is not. That is why I asked.

    You've got some good advise for things to check here. The holding tank has split on many Spyders. Not only does this lose coolant, but it also renders the system unpressurized. Allowing the coolant to boil at a much lower temperature. This will certainly create and overheating situation.

    Debris in the radiator is also a good possibility.

    A stuck thermostat will also do this. But I would check the easy stuff first. If the system is full and no tank leaks, then go for the thermostat.

    Good luck!
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    Thanks Everyone....


    TJ
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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjranch9 View Post
    Thanks Everyone....
    DID THIS ISSUE GET SOLVED ?????????......................Mike

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    SpyderLovers Ambassador Little Blue's Avatar
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    Default What was your Fix?

    ...Well, I am still curious about your Fix.
    What did you find out? What was wrong with the Spyder.
    Information is still needed to help others with this problem.

    Stay Healthy. ....
    ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
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    Problem not fixed... Coolant is good, Rad is clean... Fan is running

    Been busy with Ian this week or so ...
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-06-2022 at 09:33 PM. Reason: ' ', ;-)


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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjranch9 View Post
    Problem not fixed... Coolant is good, Rad is clean... Fan is running

    Been busy with Ian this week or so ...
    I thought my reservoir was full also ......WRONG ....... So I added approx. two cups ( 16 oz. ) well it still wasn't full enough !!! .... I added some more until I could actually see it in the internal strainer ..... well that was a bit too much, and after I warmed up the engine the Spyder over-flowed the excess..... Then no more over-heating issues ..... Mike

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    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    .

    About a year and a half ago my thermostat broke into 2 pieces and blocked a water pump passage ( they are integral about $250). 4 hose connections on the pump,
    one is very wimpy. Replacement/ pump thermostat had an internal leak and was replaced. It's not a terrible job to replace BUT it ain't easy by a long shot.

    I hope your overheating problem is a simpler fix.

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  15. #15
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjranch9 View Post
    Problem not fixed... Coolant is good, Rad is clean... Fan is running

    Been busy with Ian this week or so ...
    When you say your rad's are clean, have you looked at both sides of the rad's, on both sides?
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  16. #16
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    And even if both radiators LOOK clean enough on both sides, it's important that the gaps between the fins aren't clogged with grass seeds, mud, or some other substance/debris! So you might want to check the temps in your radiators, top & bottom; &/or check the top & bottom radiator hoses with a remote/no touch temp gun, just to see exactly what's going on with your cooling system - hot temps both top & bottom would suggest the radiators aren't as clean as they appear!

    With a bit more playing around with that temp gun, you might even be able to tell if your coolant really is getting as hot as the gauge suggests it is; and you might be able to see if the thermostat &/or water pump are working as they should too?!

    Aaand another thought or three, you've got a cat delete pipe installed, don't you?? I wonder if your engine is running a bit too lean or pinging a bit (what octane gas are you running?!?) Any of those could push the temps up on high speed runs! As would an excessively restrictive baffle in the cat delete; a partially blocked muffler; or a partially crushed/bent exhaust pipe closer to the cylinders. Soft/collapsing raditaor hoses; coolant that's contaminated, diluted, or just too old; or a dodgy radiator cap that doesn't keep the correct pressure in the system could all do it too - and there's probably more that I can't recall atm .... Lotsa other things worth checking maybe??

    Just Sayin'
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-07-2022 at 01:54 PM.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    When you say your rad's are clean, have you looked at both sides of the rad's, on both sides?
    yes I have


    TJ
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    Question From 7 bars to 4 bars when?

    TJ -- under what riding conditions does your gauge return from 7 bars to the normal 4 bars?
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    when I slow down for a while...


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  20. #20
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjranch9 View Post
    when I slow down for a while...
    I suggest you do what I did ..... OVER-fill it a bit ..... The Spyder will spit out any over-fill in the system without any harm, that's what mine did .... NO more over-heat issues, even when the Spyder's ambient temp gauge hit 125 F ..... Mike

  21. #21
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    Exclamation Instructions for purging air from engine cooling system

    TJ -- that's a hopeful indication the solution could be easy and cheap because insufficient coolant will aerate reducing its ability to transfer heat and even lead to cavitation in the water pump leading to reduced coolant flow. This situation needs to be corrected immediately. I suggest a variant on Mike's recommendation that reduces engine damage risk:

    1. Allow the engine to cool, preferably overnight.
    2. Choose a location where spilled coolant can be absorbed or diluted -- coolant tastes sweet to animals and is painfully deadly.
    3. Fill the coolant reservoir to the top with the correct coolant.
    4. Leaving the reservoir cap off, start your engine and allow it to idle until, using your finger as a gauge, the coolant temperature in the reservoir is about 120-140 degrees. Add coolant as necessary.
    5. Stop your engine and allow it to cool for an hour or so. Check the reservoir level every 5 minutes and add coolant as necessary. Do NOT allow the coolant level to drop below the top of the reservoir or air will re-enter the system and you will have to start over.
    6. Repeat steps 3-5 twice more.
    7. Replace the reservoir cap and conduct your freeway overheating test.
    8. If temperature exceeds 5 bars, drive home and immediately inspect the reservoir and associated hoses for leakage as BR suggested above.

    If there are no leaks, air may still remain in the system requiring vacuum to remove. Another member identified a coolant relief port near to top of the engine. Remove the reservoir cap, add coolant as necessary, and then using a handheld vacuum pump, pull coolant from the port until there are no more bubbles. Do NOT allow the coolant level to drop below the top of the reservoir or air will re-enter the system and you will have to start over. Conduct your freeway overheating test.

    If the temperature exceeds 5 bars, I'm thinking the water pump with its integral thermostat is failing. Unless you have a fairly complete set of tools and have some experience with vehicle fuel or water pumps, I recommend dealer replacement as, from my reading, I rate this a 6-7 level difficulty.
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    Well folks, I've been turning wrenches since I was 13 and have always used the KISS practice when starting to find a problem.. ( keep it simple stupid ) Thought I did on this overheating problem..
    I started by looking at the reserved tank and could see A/F through the tank... So after checking everything else that been suggested and not finding anything wrong
    I decided to take the cap off the tank and try to see if I can see any movement... Daaaaaaaa can't see any fluid at all.. So I added 1/2 gal. to the system and let it run..
    Won't know if I cured the problem but I'll bet it did.... Thanks for all the help...


    TJ
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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjranch9 View Post
    Well folks, I've been turning wrenches since I was 13 and have always used the KISS practice when starting to find a problem.. ( keep it simple stupid ) Thought I did on this overheating problem..
    I started by looking at the reserved tank and could see A/F through the tank... So after checking everything else that been suggested and not finding anything wrong
    I decided to take the cap off the tank and try to see if I can see any movement... Daaaaaaaa can't see any fluid at all.. So I added 1/2 gal. to the system and let it run..
    Won't know if I cured the problem but I'll bet it did.... Thanks for all the help...
    1/2 gal. OMG I think the system was almost DRY !!!!..... glad you got this figured out ...IMHO the plastic that BRP had the reservoir made from is a major cause of LOW fluid, folks just can't see how much fluid is in the tank ..... Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 10-10-2022 at 03:34 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post

    Many think 5 bars is too hot, which it is not. That is why I asked.
    Ever since I bought my 21 Spyder its always gone to 5 bars and never over. Figured that was normal level.
    21 Spyder base F3

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