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What size are the oil Drain Plugs?
Getting ready to change my oil on my 2022 S2S. What size are the drain plugs?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-22-2022 at 03:57 PM.
Reason: Expanded Title to briefly ask the question ;-)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by rgus
Getting ready to change my oil on my 2022 S2S. What size are the drain plugs?
Engine drain is T45 Torx, transmission/clutch drain is 6mm hex.
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I'd replaced them with hex head if i were you! I bought a used Spyder and the mechanic who did the 1st service messed up the torx drain ( I know because I have the service receipts from the previous owner!) Bike is a 2020 with 6300 miles.
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Buy these before you change your oil https://www.lamonstergarage.com/show...ic-drain-plug/ I just installed a set at my first oil change (3,000 mile service). You won't have to mess with mismatched torx and allen keys again.
2022 Petrol Metallic RT Limited / 'PYDER'
Peter Pan has struck again!
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GLIDE-ON>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"Blue Belle" 2021 RTL Chrome in Petrol Blue
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I did buy replacement drain plugs from Lamonster and have changed the main oil plug out. I screwed up the tranny plug by trying to use a T40. I just rounded the durn hole some. I am waiting on some JB Weld and another T40. I am going to clean it and the drain plug with alcohol then JB welding a T40 in place. Hopefully after 24 hours it will have enough strength to remove the oem plug for the replacement plug. cross your fingers.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by rgus
I did buy replacement drain plugs from Lamonster and have changed the main oil plug out. I screwed up the tranny plug by trying to use a T40. I just rounded the durn hole some. I am waiting on some JB Weld and another T40. I am going to clean it and the drain plug with alcohol then JB welding a T40 in place. Hopefully after 24 hours it will have enough strength to remove the oem plug for the replacement plug. cross your fingers.
Jack it up high enough to short swing a hammer under there. Take any of the plastic crap in the way off the bottom of the case. You can tap the stripped plugs out with a small, very sharp center punch. Tap in the unscrew direction.......... remember, it is upside down!
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Well JB Weld will not stick to the material that the drain plug is made of so I am back to square one. I really have no way to raise it high enough to get under it safely. What problems am I getting into if I change the oil and filter with the old oil in the transmission and taking it somewhere that can get the damn plug out?
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Very Active Member
To raise it up you need to go buy Walmart plastic ramps or rhinos. For $38-$50 you will use them forever anyway. RGUS here is what I would do. I know its wasted money but we have had to do it often when I was in my racing years. If the hole is rounded and Gwolf technique doesn’t work because its rounded then either get a next size larger than the rounded area in either a square or torx. I prefer the torx. First take a 1/4” deep socket and hold it against the bolt. Next hit it with a hammer to remove the varnish. Put a very little heat on it. No need to get really hot just a warm, nothing more. Take the larger torx bit. I prefer snapon since they are rock hard and you can change the head when you’re done so your’e only out $9.00. Start to drive the bit into the bolt so it grips and seated in with a hammer. Basically hold the bit like a nail and nail the bit into the plugs end. You’re basically creating a new bolt hole. Then make sure you’re re going the right way and twist out with a ratchet Slowly. Don’t rock it keep it straight and hand under pushing up for pressure. Again a little heat. This is very archaic method but will work if you go slow. If that doesn’t work, an easy out screw is all you can use. Or drill out which is last resort.
Last edited by Wmoater; 09-28-2022 at 08:47 AM.
“Born to Ride......Ride to Live....MOATER ON !
“Current ride: 2017 RT Limited”
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No need to replace the plugs with hex. Use the correct tools to remove and they come right out. I have literally done several hundred oil changes on Spyders and not had trouble getting out a single plug that was not already mangled by using the wrong tools.
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Originally Posted by FrogmanDave
I bought these my very first oil change. Best thing I did. The 2020 the brake lever was in the way. I reversed the bolt that as well and put the nut on the side that is not blocking the plug.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by rgus
Well JB Weld will not stick to the material that the drain plug is made of so I am back to square one. I really have no way to raise it high enough to get under it safely. What problems am I getting into if I change the oil and filter with the old oil in the transmission and taking it somewhere that can get the damn plug out?
Can you try vise-grip pliers to grab the head of the plug?
Granted, you'll ruin the drain plug, so have the replacement in hand before you try this.
If it ain't broke, don't break it.
IBA #47122
2020 RT Limited Asphalt Grey
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You could always use an ease-out. I have used them plenty of times. Get one that is almost too big and tap it into the plug. Most likely it will then come out.
Do not use one that is too small.
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Well, been there done that! Had a 2011 RT, rounded out blamed hex head. Had a set of Roddick Wedge Pruff extractors. Worked like a charm. Replaced with hex head. They're expensive, but worth it.. D-Daddy!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-16-2022 at 06:16 PM.
Reason: Hadaset....
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by rgus
Well JB Weld will not stick to the material that the drain plug is made of so I am back to square one. I really have no way to raise it high enough to get under it safely. What problems am I getting into if I change the oil and filter with the old oil in the transmission and taking it somewhere that can get the damn plug out?
JB Weld will not stick to anything with oil film. Clean metal with plenty of wood grain alcohol first. The alcohol left on it will evaporate in about a minute.
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