2010 RT with Spongy brakes - which Speed Bleeders?

[Eviltwin]

My old girl has been suffering with some spongy brakes for a while. I replaced pads and bled last year but did not do the module in the middle. I want to do it again and this time put in speed bleeders. There have been a few threads posted recently on the subject and it seemed to me that there was a bit of confusion on the right sizes to use. I wanted to make sure I got the right ones the first time so I'm checking here first before I order them. This is the from the speed bleeders site for a 2010 RT:

image_2022-09-10_074915638.jpg

I got an electronic version of the service manual for this bike and looked through some vids on Youtube that cover the bleeding using the speed bleeders and buds. I don't have buds for the final step, and even the guy that posted the vid doesnt think its really necessary, so I'll skip that part.

Appreciate any help.

Bob

[Little Blue]

....I would give Speed Bleeders a call and double check with them. They always helped me. .... : )

[Eviltwin]

I got the speed bleeders the other week and jacked up the bike to put them in. I ran into a couple of problems.

The left front caliper doesnt look like it is doing anything. I put the bleeder in and it doesnt flow any fluid. After some further checking, it looks like the caliper is locked up, but is not putting any pressure on the pads on that side. Looking online, I dont see any rebuild kits, so unless I can somehow figure out how to fix it, I will probably have to put a new one in there to the tune of a couple hundred.

The abs/vcu unit is supposed to get a bleeder nipple. But for the life of me I dont see how I can get a wrench in there to put it in. Is there a trick to getting access to it or do I need to remove some tupperware. I've had the bike apart before, the last time about 3 years ago to do plugs and wires and at that point I had the frunk off of it. Looking at my old pictures I took at the time, I still dont see it clearly.

Finally the rear caliper is pretty much hidden under the muffler. Is dropping the muffler the easiest way to access the nipple? FYI, this is a 2010 RT and I did get an electronic version of the service manual. Thanks for any insights in advance.

[davev1pa]

I did the speed bleeders on the 2012 RT at the calipers only..Not on the VCM... -it's hard to reach and requires BUDS to bleed. My thoughts are that with all the lines to the brakes you will get about 90% of the DOT4 exchanged .....granted its not complete...but good enough for me. To actuate the VCM then your gonna need BUDS...purists will disagree with me for various reasons...and I get it ....I'm leaving dirty DOT 4 in a small portion of the system ...the other concern is safety...BUDS will allow the user to activate the VCM and measure the actual pressure required to apply the brakes etc ....this is not something you can do by "feel" say you have good brake pedal action( not mushy). I'm ok with this DIY method but others may not be...look the brakes are *&&^^ on the early model pre BREMBO....I've researched changing all the calipers ( not really an option) the rotors can be switched with EBCs as well as changing the stock pads...that's about it in the early models. BTW the rear brakes wear first depending on riding conditions the fronts seem to last forever. I have "adequate" braking on my 12' but I really enjoy the Brembo on the 14 RT!

[davev1pa]

I got the speed bleeders the other week and jacked up the bike to put them in. I ran into a couple of problems.

The left front caliper doesnt look like it is doing anything. I put the bleeder in and it doesnt flow any fluid. After some further checking, it looks like the caliper is locked up, but is not putting any pressure on the pads on that side. Looking online, I dont see any rebuild kits, so unless I can somehow figure out how to fix it, I will probably have to put a new one in there to the tune of a couple hundred.

The abs/vcu unit is supposed to get a bleeder nipple. But for the life of me I dont see how I can get a wrench in there to put it in. Is there a trick to getting access to it or do I need to remove some tupperware. I've had the bike apart before, the last time about 3 years ago to do plugs and wires and at that point I had the frunk off of it. Looking at my old pictures I took at the time, I still dont see it clearly.

Finally the rear caliper is pretty much hidden under the muffler. Is dropping the muffler the easiest way to access the nipple? FYI, this is a 2010 RT and I did get an electronic version of the service manual. Thanks for any insights in advance.

It's easy to get air in and Idk what method you used...was it absolutely working before you started or is this a result of your work? PS I don't pump the brake pedal to push fluid through in most instances...I Tie down the pedal ...open the bleeder....keep the reservoir full until i feel it has reached the bleeder then shut the bleeder and untie the brake and top off the fluid. Some use suction..some pump the pedal...I like gravity and an open line. None of this advice works for a stuck caliper....that being said....try again...

[Eviltwin]

Its been a few weeks since I was working on it. I will get back on it but right now working on a boat project.

I pumped the brake pedal to push the fluid out. It worked fine on the right wheel. As far as whether the left caliper was working before I started, I don't know. I tend to think it wasnt since braking wasnt all that great.

[RangerRick]

I have this one way valve with clear hose on both ends, I just slip it over the stock bleeder and put the other end in a bottle. It worked great for me, forgot where I bought it. Way cheaper than speed bleeders.