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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by bikergirl
Well finally found and fixed problem
That's great. I'm sure glad my suggestions helped you.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Electrical problems on vehicles that have circuit's that interconnect with one another and use communication circuits to talk to each other can be difficult without special tools to diagnose.
Was looking at CAN hi and low circuits for open or shorts because of the way the bike quit. Then started looking at ECM wiring powers and grounds after downloading service manual.
The only problem I had was printing the schematic was I couldn't read it without magnifying it then couldn't print that portion of it. So I enlarged it on computer and took a picture with my phone and could see it by enlarging the picture.
Luckly I had Fluke meter, test light and power probe tool to do the tests. Can Am also uses the same terminals GM uses on their vehicles which made it easier to test without ruining the terminals. Now I remember one reason why I retired.
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Active Member
When I had an electrical issue on my spyder. I copied my downloaded repair manual to a thumb drive. Then took the drive to a copy center. They printed me a 36 by 48 copy of the page I needed. I think they only charged me $7.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by bikergirl
Well finally found and fixed problem thanks to IdahoMtnSpyder steering me in right direction.
Did as you suggested with jumping terminals even though hazard lights worked, and dash powered up.
Then checked voltages coming from bike and found only 1.5 volts to terminal CL-8 and park switch PBS-7 on that same circuit.
Then checked voltage at fuse F7 LFB 10amp to cluster, TCM, DPS and gauges was 12.9 volts. Then checked resistance from CL-8 to B2 of fuse.
Found high resistance in that circuit. Used my magnifier on my phone and seen corrosion on terminal. I think the only way to get to the back of fuse block it is to pull the funk and front clip to pull the harness.
So instead, I used terminal cleaner and a fluid that Mercedes-Benz uses that promotes terminal contact. Rechecked and now powers up and starts.
Thank you for steering me in the right direction. With all the testing I was doing I started getting lost in the forest.
Thanks UtahPete and Jetfixer and everyone else for the help.
You might consider doing the research into water intrusion of the fuseboxes. Apparently some of the wire harnesses had corrosion issues due to water entry to the backside of the fuse boxes. Forget all the details but believe it was in that 2015 era your Spyder falls within. Regardless excellent it is repaired.
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PMK thanks for making me aware of the water intrusion problems with the 2015 Spyders, I'll check into it. Again a big Thanks to everyone . You guys came through for me.
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