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  1. #1
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    Default Fully sintered vs semi-sintered brake pads and rotor types

    I'm looking to upgrade my braking system for more stopping power than the OEM system which is already pretty good). I've read several threads on SL having to do with brake pad replacement mostly, plus tech articles from different sources and descriptions at the EBC website https://ebcbrakes.com/ebc-brake-pad-selector-tool/

    My understanding is as follows;

    Most modern motorcycles come equipped with organic or semi-sintered pads. I'm not sure which the Spyder comes with from the factory. The organic is the softest, cleanest type but has relatively short life and the least stopping power. The semi-sintered contains some metal (about 30% for EBC) and may be steel or copper typically (EBC uses copper). These have greater stopping power and longer life than organic at the cost of more brake dust and greater rotor wear.

    The fully sintered pads (HH series for EBC) have the greatest stopping power and longest life, but will seriously shorten the life of standard rotors. Hence, going to fully sintered pads usually is combined with new stainless steel rotors that can handle the pads' higher friction, wear and heat. These rotors are also 'floating' which allows some expansion without causing warpage of the rotor. A full set of EBC front and rear HH pads and rotors runs about $500 currently.

    Comments, corrections or criticisms?
    Last edited by UtahPete; 08-18-2022 at 03:47 PM.
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  2. #2
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Pete, when I switched from OEM pads to EBC fully sintered I also went to the EBC rotors and the improvement in braking was easily noticeable. I was riding quite aggressively in the NC mountains at that time. MTF, just doing the bedding in process after I'd followed Ron's directions on beveling and slotting the pads, my hands and wrists were sore from my weight being thrown forward each time I slammed on the brakes and feeling the ABS chatter. The cost of the rotors is well worth the improvement in braking power.
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  3. #3
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    I really don't think rotor wear (even with stock rotors) is all that significant. I've never had a customer replace a rotor for wear (other than metal to metal issues which no rotor is going to endure for long). The EBC rotors are definitely more rugged and warp resistant than the OEM units. But personally, rotor wear, regardless of pad material, is a non-issue.
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    .

    The EBC fully sintered (HH) brake pads really do improve the 's stopping power. Even a stock Spyder stops hard. Pete, you might the extra stopping power with all the mods you've made to the motor.........

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    I really don't think rotor wear (even with stock rotors) is all that significant. I've never had a customer replace a rotor for wear (other than metal to metal issues which no rotor is going to endure for long). The EBC rotors are definitely more rugged and warp resistant than the OEM units. But personally, rotor wear, regardless of pad material, is a non-issue.
    Do the EBC rotors stop better than the OEM?

    Are there any issues to be aware of when replacing the OEM rotors with the EBC (e.g. pad clearance)?
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member DGoebel's Avatar
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    I bought both the EBC pads and upgraded rotors from BajaRon for my '13 and immediately noticed the improved stopping, which my extra weight really needed. Installed at 21k from stock pads and rotors. When sold they still looked like new at 38k.
    EBC Brake Pads on 13RTL at 21K .jpg
    Last edited by DGoebel; 08-18-2022 at 06:22 PM.
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  7. #7
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Do the EBC rotors stop better than the OEM?

    Are there any issues to be aware of when replacing the OEM rotors with the EBC (e.g. pad clearance)?
    1. Yes
    2. No
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  8. #8
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    I'm looking to upgrade my braking system for more stopping power than the OEM system which is already pretty good). I've read several threads on SL having to do with brake pad replacement mostly, plus tech articles from different sources and descriptions at the EBC website https://ebcbrakes.com/ebc-brake-pad-selector-tool/

    My understanding is as follows;

    Most modern motorcycles come equipped with organic or semi-sintered pads. I'm not sure which the Spyder comes with from the factory. The organic is the softest, cleanest type but has relatively short life and the least stopping power. The semi-sintered contains some metal (about 30% for EBC) and may be steel or copper typically (EBC uses copper). These have greater stopping power and longer life than organic at the cost of more brake dust and greater rotor wear.

    The fully sintered pads (HH series for EBC) have the greatest stopping power and longest life, but will seriously shorten the life of standard rotors. Hence, going to fully sintered pads usually is combined with new stainless steel rotors that can handle the pads' higher friction, wear and heat. These rotors are also 'floating' which allows some expansion without causing warpage of the rotor. A full set of EBC front and rear HH pads and rotors runs about $500 currently.

    Comments, corrections or criticisms?
    You should find that the oem Brembo brakes are fully sintered friction material on the brake pads and none of the discs, not rear or fronts are a floating type disc.

    The front brake calipers are post mount style, with opposing four piston style design. This setup allows the caliper to be rigidly mounted.
    The rear brake caliper is a floating type caliper with single piston and parking brake. The floating caliper design requires freedom of movement on the posts to obtain even brake friction material wear of the brake pads. This design is often utilized as a simple way of incorporating a mechanical parking brake.

    When working with the clamped type front brake discs on the Spyder, it becomes imperative that no debris enters between the hub and brake disc if a front wheel is removed, as this can cause a lateral runout in the disc and wheel assembly. The rear disc being fastened to the rear hub does not have any concerns for runout from debris.

    All the Spyder brake discs can suffer heat induced runout, and also why ensuring clean mating surfaces of both sides of each front disc is imperative and torquing the wheel nuts to spec with a good quality torque wrench.
    Last edited by PMK; 08-19-2022 at 02:22 AM.

  9. #9
    SpyderLovers Ambassador Little Blue's Avatar
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    Default Wheels TIP

    ...Definitely use a quality Torque Wench when you install your Spyder Wheels.
    A quality TORQUE WENCH is well worth the price and peace of mind.

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  10. #10
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DGoebel View Post
    I bought both the EBC pads and upgraded rotors from BajaRon for my '13 and immediately noticed the improved stopping, which my extra weight really needed. Installed at 21k from stock pads and rotors. When sold they still looked like new at 38k.
    EBC Brake Pads on 13RTL at 21K .jpg
    Seeing that photo of how worn the brakes were, I bet you noticed a braking improvement with new parts. Moneys worth of the worn set...

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Navydad's Avatar
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    I have used the HH fully sintered brake pads on all of my touring bikes for many years and have never needed to replace a rotor. Many of these bikes had near or over 100K miles on them. These bikes were all the sport touring type of motorcycle all of which had floating rotors so that may account for the great rotor wear. I have only had the HH type on my Spyder RT for 15K and I don't have any excessive wear showing yet. Like many other things we all ride differently and no doubt brake differently so tough to make comparisons some times. I ride two up a lot and I am a "spirited" rider.
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