Urgent! Starter button acting up - Update!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I'm in Omaha, NE tonight on my way home from Deadwood 3 wheel rally followed by a trip to eastern Iowa to see my son and family.

The starter button is not working reliably on my '14 RTS. It's gotten to the point I have to push up on it to get it to make contact, and then it doesn't always stay in contact. It usually takes two or three times to get the starter to engage long enough to start.

Have any of you taken the right hand multi switch apart and know how the starter switch is built? Is it a bubble switch or a real mechanical contact? Have any of you tried cleaning the switch?

I don't know right now if my subscription to Remote PC is still active or not. I'll check it after a bit. If so I can download the wiring diagram and figure out if the start circuit is Can Bus or direct connection. I suspect Can Bus which will complicate fixing it.

If anyone can share some real experience I sure would appreciate it.

[2dogs]

A "little" WD40 might help.

[Bunson]

I have had occasional problems with mine. Usually it will work the second or most third time. The last time it happened it didn't want to work even after multiple tries. The neutral light was on but decided to try putting my foot on the brake and it kicked right over. May be a neutral switch issue.

[BertRemington]

Starter switch grounds coil of Pre-Start Relay and ECM pin C4. No CANbus.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Starter switch grounds coil of Pre-Start Relay and ECM pin C4. No CANbus.

I was able to get to my service manual at home and saw that was the case. Any idea what the switch configuration is? Will some spray get into it and help clean it?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I have had occasional problems with mine. Usually it will work the second or most third time. The last time it happened it didn't want to work even after multiple tries. The neutral light was on but decided to try putting my foot on the brake and it kicked right over. May be a neutral switch issue.

You might be right. I think I have put my foot on the brake and have it start. I'll have to pay close attention to that possibility.

[JayBros]

I would use regular contact cleaner spray, not WD40.

[Deanna777]

I have had occasional problems with mine. Usually it will work the second or most third time. The last time it happened it didn't want to work even after multiple tries. The neutral light was on but decided to try putting my foot on the brake and it kicked right over. May be a neutral switch issue.

Bunson,

I also have a 2014 RTS-SE6 I haven't had any problems with mine. I do put my foot on the brake when I am going thru the starting process on my spyder.

Deanna

[Bartender]

I think the bike is designed to require you to put your foot on the brake pedal to use the starter, at lease that is the way mine has always behaved. Sounds like you may not have a problem at all.

[canamjhb]

My 2014 RTL always started with foot on brake. But sometimes it would start without brake.....? Go figure. Also, do not use WD40. It attracts dust and dirt and WILL gum up your switches. In a pinch, silicone spray is better. But electrical contact cleaner is what you should use. Good luck..... Jim

[FrogmanDave]

Your foot does not have to be on brake if you put the Spyder in neutral before you turned it off.

[Bunson]

I always start my 2018 RTL from the left side before getting on the bike. When the start button has acted up different things have worked. Hitting it again, turning key off and on, hitting the menu button again. Note: I ride most everyday and this might happen once every two to three weeks. The last time I had to walk around and put my foot on the brake. I always put the bike in neutral before turning off and neutral light has always been on.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

As of right now I think I got it fixed! All it took was a super generous dose of CRC Electronics Cleaner sprayed through the gap between the button and the module housing. Every start, about a dozen, since has been normal. Thanks for the suggestions.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

A couple of weeks ago I posted this thread, https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...tton-acting-up!, about having start problems. I thought I had it solved by spraying electronic cleaner around the start button. Well, guess what? That did not solve the problem. I almost got stranded today but finally got the starter to work. I used cleaner on it just the other day but it really crapped out today. So I decided I had no choice but to open up the switch module and see what the problem is.

This is the switch module removed from the housing showing the silicone button on the start switch.

Start switch with silicone button.jpg

This is the switch module showing the silicone button removed from the start switch.

Start switch with silicone taken off.jpg

Here's a close up of the switch contacts. There is only one very small portion of the contacts that will make contact when I press on it with a small torx screwdriver (a torx screwdriver has a flat end), and that is intermittant. I believe the contacts are broken so closing the circuit is hit and miss.

Close up of start switch with silicone taken off.jpg

Looking at the wiring diagram I see the beige/gray wire coming to the switch connects to the ground side of the pre-start relay. Pushing the button closes the circuit from the relay to ground engaging the start process. I did a test of using a sharp pin to penetrate the insulation of the beige/gray wire and connecting it to a wire that went to bike ground. That engages the starter perfectly. So, instead of spending $500+ for a new right module I will connect into the beige/gray wire with a push button that connects to ground. Won't be as convenient as the start button on the handlebar, but sure beats spending $500 for a new module or a couple hundred for a used module.

It'll be a couple of weeks or so before I will get to finish the repair but I'll post about it when I do.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

..... Mike

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

To see how I replaced the start button go to this DIY thread.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...79#post1642979