What is the Secret to tightening the Axle Nut after Belt Adjustment?

[ulflyer]

I get the belt loosened to where I want it, tighten the axle nut, and the belt tightens! Every time! Have gone thru this a half doz times now. I might have got it right today, purely by luck, as it rode well with no obvious vibrations, but I still need to torque the nut up more. Getting 166ft lbs takes some doing!

With my luck, after I get it fully torqued, the belt will have changed again. If so, I'll keep on till it suits me. LOL

I've read a bunch of Utube's, articles I've found on the forum, etc, but I still don't have a clue as to how you keep it from tightening up. Would welcome any input from you folks?

[Woodaddict]

there is a different reading from wheel in air, and wheel on ground. otherwise, belt side adjuster is moving backward away from swingarm. that would be hard to do, given the amount of pressure the belt puts on in first place. only other item is some kind of detent with axle nut moving it back into its own place

edit: you're not far from me!!

[EdMat]

Suffering from the creeping nuts syndrome?

If you have a rod long enuff to fit thru the axle and a couple of ratchet type tie down straps you can go over the rod on each side a secure it forward to the frame or foot rest. Get the axle as tight as you can with 2 long wrenches then remove the straps and torque. Chances are it's already tight enuff it will not move.

[pidjones]

I think HD uses the same size nut on their axles. There is an adapter that you can add on a 1/2" torque wrench to increase leverage and fit the nut. Just have to calculate the change in torque. "HD-47925 4882 Rear Wheel Axle Torque Wrench Hand Tool 36mm Wrench Tool Kit for Adjust Drive Belt Tension or Rear Wheel Alignment" - bought mine on Amazon for $14.99

[IGETAROUND]

Suffering from the creeping nuts syndrome?

If you have a rod long enuff to fit thru the axle and a couple of ratchet type tie down straps you can go over the rod on each side a secure it forward to the frame or foot rest. Get the axle as tight as you can with 2 long wrenches then remove the straps and torque. Chances are it's already tight enuff it will not move.

1+ on this method, or alternatively you can run the same strap through the wheel and accomplish the same end point.

Al in Kazoo

[ulflyer]

there is a different reading from wheel in air, and wheel on ground. otherwise, belt side adjuster is moving backward away from swingarm. that would be hard to do, given the amount of pressure the belt puts on in first place. only other item is some kind of detent with axle nut moving it back into its own place

edit: you're not far from me!!

I've done it so much I can just about tell by feel whether its within the Kriket range or not. I had about a 130 with wheel up. Will check to see what it reads after a final torque. BTW, I'm just across the Yadkin river about 5 mi up Rt 150.

[ButterSmooth]

My belt changes tension and alignment going from breaker-bar tight to torqued. The swing arm opening is significantly wider with no tension than it is when torqued. Good thing; I'd never be able to get the wheel back in if it were smaller. I've just learned the fudge factors required to come close and then make small tweaks after a test ride. For example the belt moves 5mm toward the flange when torqued and the tension goes up about 20#.

I also use anti-seize compound on the nut, washer, swing-arm, and threads. Having a lubricated fastener REDUCES the torque required to achieve the desired tightness (squeezing force). I torque my axle nut to 120 foot pounds. I also drilled out the axle so I could use split-pin (cotter) for security.

[WDAVEY]

I tighten the axle nut is small steps, checking that the adjusters have not moved. If they do move toward the rear (tighter) I use a block of wood and a hammer to drive them forward until they are tight against the end of the swing arm. I takes several rounds of tighten/hammer to reach the point where the adjusters no longer move when tightening the axle nut. YMMV.

[ulflyer]

Many thanks for the feedback. I just came in from giving it another bit of torque and the Kriket reading was about 175 on the ground. If it holds at that, that is prob close enuf to suit. The reason I've been diddling so much with it is either loud whine and/or vibes at uncomfortable speeds. During all of these "problems" the belt was too tight. I'll know tomorrow after a ride if I've got it good enuf. If not, I'll be looking for a strap. I have learned to give the axle a good whack after loosening the the nut and adjusters. Took me several trys before fig that out. LOL

[safecracker]

How I do it is I use the left tensioner for pounds, (tightness) and the right for adjusting belt position. As mentioned above I make sure the right tensioner is snug, no wiggle, then I drive a 2 x 4 between wheel and swingarm, this holds tension on the right tensioner. I also lift my bike by the rear shock so I do not have to lower and then raise bike again to check belt tension. Bruce

[canamjhb]

Have confidence. You'll get there. The first time or two have a steep learning curve. After you get your "system" figured out, it will become a lot easier. The first time I tackled this, there were more than a couple test rides, a lot of bad words, and a little blood shed over the course of a few hours. Good luck..... Jim

[ulflyer]

How I do it is I use the left tensioner for pounds, (tightness) and the right for adjusting belt position. As mentioned above I make sure the right tensioner is snug, no wiggle, then I drive a 2 x 4 between wheel and swingarm, this holds tension on the right tensioner. I also lift my bike by the rear shock so I do not have to lower and then raise bike again to check belt tension. Bruce

Bruce, can't visualize how you drive a 2 x 4 between wheel and swingarm. Do you have it on a lift and the 2X4 goes in from the bottom? Something diff?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I read the 12 posts above ..... I'm surprised NO one has mentioned ....." if you remove the SHOCK BOLT first " the tension you had will be the tension you get back ..... JMHJO ... good luck .... Mike

[Jetfixer]

Do the final torque with the wheel on the ground. The geometry of the swingarm will tend to keep the axle loaded forward on the adjusters while you tighten the axle bolt nut. Also, you are torqueing the nut, right? That's why the shop manual insists on removing the exhaust muffler...

[ulflyer]

Do the final torque with the wheel on the ground. The geometry of the swingarm will tend to keep the axle loaded forward on the adjusters while you tighten the axle bolt nut. Also, you are torqueing the nut, right? That's why the shop manual insists on removing the exhaust muffler...

I have a clicker type torque wrench that goes up to 150 lbs, and a large socket that fit, and one for the left side to hold the axle while tightening. I can easily get the socket between the muffler and axle nut so thats not a problem and a section of pipe over the wrench handle to get the necessary torque. I did a lot of local riding yesterday, some on interstate, and after getting home the Kriket still tested at 175 ft lbs which is not too bad. Am going to live with that for a while before doing anything more. Would be happier with 150-160 which is what I had for a long time until somehow the belt tightened and a lot of vibes set in. That started me on trying to reset it.

[Eckhard]

Use the Harley tool, HD-47925 4882, and make sure it is at right angles to the torque wrench and is to the top so that when you force you are pushing the wheel forward against the adjusters. Check out this website for torque wrench tips and myths. https://agradetools.com/torque-wrench-myth-busted/

[ButterSmooth]

Use the Harley tool, HD-47925 4882, and make sure it is at right angles to the torque wrench and is to the top so that when you force you are pushing the wheel forward against the adjusters. Check out this website for torque wrench tips and myths. https://agradetools.com/torque-wrench-myth-busted/

If you ever wonder why oil drain plugs get stripped by over-tightening with a torque wrench look at this site:
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/t...ts-d_1693.html

When you drain the oil you lubricate the threads. Same thing for the axle torque if you use anti-seize on the threads as I do...

It took me 55 years to learn this.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I get the belt loosened to where I want it, tighten the axle nut, and the belt tightens! Every time! Have gone thru this a half doz times now.

Try holding the nut in place and torque the axle from the left end. From what I've found online there is little to no difference in tightening whether you torque the nut or the bolt head.

The last time I had to go through the procedure I used a wedge between the tire and swing arm on the right side. Because of the way the tighteners are made the one on the right side get pushed back, or loosened, because the nut grips the swing arm tighter on the upper side of the axle than on the lower side. Friction causes the axle to get pushed rearward, which then moves the pulley slightly rearward thus tightening the belt.

[ulflyer]

Try holding the nut in place and torque the axle from the left end. From what I've found online there is little to no difference in tightening whether you torque the nut or the bolt head.

The last time I had to go through the procedure I used a wedge between the tire and swing arm on the right side. Because of the way the tighteners are made the one on the right side get pushed back, or loosened, because the nut grips the swing arm tighter on the upper side of the axle than on the lower side. Friction causes the axle to get pushed rearward, which then moves the pulley slightly rearward thus tightening the belt.

If I have to do it again before the front sproket gets replaced under the recall, I'll give your method a try. Right now, its running fairly good at 175lbs (Kriket).

Appreciate the feedback from all of you.