Brake Failure and again again!

[wilpir]

I've had a brake failure message several times..I've reset it myself several times after numerous attempts! I've also taken it in to the dealer twice in 2 yrs... 1st time they did a flush, new pads, reset, ect at a cost of almost $1000! 2nd time they just reset - cost... $275! This time, I've been trying for over a month and it wont reset... I'm at my wits end! Is there another trick or something to do before I trade it in (2012 RT Limited only 10000 miles, 2000 since the brake job) on a Vanderhall! Thanx for any help

[pegasus1300]

I know this sounds like an over simplification of your problem, but pre Brembo brakes (2012 and earlier) have very sensitive fluid level sensors. As the pads wear even a little, the fluid level goes down and your brake failure lights come on. On my 2012, a table spoon or so of dot 4 brings it back up, the lights go out, and all is well. If you haven't already, then give this a try. Works for me. Good luck.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I've had a brake failure message several times..I've reset it myself several times after numerous attemps! I've also takin it to the dealer twice in 2 yrs ..1st time they did a flush new pads reset ect at a cost of almost $1000! 2nd time just reset cost..$275! This time I've been trying for over a month and it wont reset..I'm at my wits end! Is there another trick or something to do..before I trade it in(2012 RT Limited only 10000 miles,2000 since brake job) on a Vanderhall! Thanx for any help

On the 2011 and 2012, the Brake Failure message can be either from a low level in the fluid reservoir, or from the Low Pressure Switch feature. You need to pull up the code while the failure is active in order to tell which is which. C0049 will be low fluid level, while C1282 will be due to low pressure detected by the low pressure switch - which is what you're trying to reset without success. On second thought, if it is due to a low level in the reservoir, the parking brake symbol comes on steady, also. Helps to narrow it down that way, too. Look in your reservoir chambers and add fluid such that the little float in the sensor comes slightly above the outer ring of the sensor, as shown. Check both chambers. Normal wear of the brake pads will lower the fluid level and require more to be added. This is all normal maintenance.

An actual FAILURE of the Low Pressure Switch or its wiring will bring in code C1182 - along with your Brake Failure message on the display. You won't be able to reset that. It must be repaired first. So, back to fundamentals. Call up the code to see what you got.

[wilpir]

Yes, I've tried putting in some brake fluid to no avail... My floats only show half of them, are they supposed to pop up in the opening? I'll try to get a code... Also, the parking brake symbol is on steady...

[wilpir]

C1282...Can I fix it or dealer only?

[BajaRon]

Your Brake Failure light can trigger for a number of reasons. Some of which are covered here. One that I did not see is the low pedal switch which activates when the brake pedal goes below a certain point. You can hear it click when this happens, (bike not running) Usually, air in the system is what creates a low peddle. But other things can cause it as well.

Another possibility that I have not seen here is if one of your caliper pistons is sticking (this was my issue on a 2008 GS). I was not able to free the piston and ended up purchasing a used caliper, which fixed the problem. You can check this by pulling the calipers off and pushing the pistons in. Then just set them back on the rotor with pads in (or put something in-between the pads allowing free play but not enough so that the pistons come out of the caliper). Then push on the brake pedal to see if both pistons move freely. If not, you can usually work the pistons in and out a few times to free them up.

Good luck!

[wilpir]

Should I bleed the brakes?

[Bfromla]

Yes I've tried putting in some brake fluid to no avail ..my floats only show half of them are they supposed to pop up in opening? I'll try to get a code...also parking brake symbol is on steady..

Have you tried to see if the floats are stuck? Should be able to push down if floating properly caution not to get any moisture(sweat drips) or debris in the reservoir. & the fluid is caustic also double check the V slits in diaphragm on lids both to point to back of bike. Good luck

[trikermutha]

And Stay away from Vanderhall. You think you got problems now..

Good Luck!

[BajaRon]

Should I bleed the brakes?

It never hurts to bleed the brakes. Especially if you have cloudy fluid or fluid that has been in the system a long time. As mentioned above. Pulling codes may lead you in the right direction.

[BertRemington]

wilpir -- you don't mention date and mileage when problem occurred but I assume recently which implies you didn't change your brake fluid for about a decade, most of which was sitting in storage. So I think BajaRon has identified the most likely problem -- stuck caliper due to moisture in the system. The maintenance schedule for brake fluid is replace every two years.

[wilpir]

Brake fluid changed at dealer 2 years ago with pad change (2000 miles). Problem occurred 1 month ago, haven't ridden since. (10000 miles total on bike) Never in storage, rode several times a week to work... I'll check the calipers when I do the bleed!

[canamjhb]

If it were me, I'd check where the brake fluid NEEDS to be before I started getting greasy. That fluid level is VERY sensitive. Even a tablespoon amount low will give you alerts..... Good luck..... Jim

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Wilpir. Even though you don’t have the code for low fluid level, yes, the floats should float. Top off both reservoir chambers. They will look very full. That’s expected. Make sure the floats work properly.

C1282 - there are 2 micro switches operated by the brake pedal linkage. As you depress the pedal under braking, the first one to actuate is the Brake Light Switch (BLS). What it does is self-explanatory. As you depress the pedal harder, it travels further. Under moderate to heavy braking, the pedal will travel far enough to actuate the second micro switch. The official name of that switch is the Low Pressure Switch (LPS). (Not the low pedal switch, so yes Ron, you did see it here) It is normal and expected for that switch to actuate under those conditions. Despite the name, that switch measures pedal travel. When the LPS actuates, it triggers the ECM to look at actual real live brake system pressure. That pressure sensor is in the VCM. If the actual pressure has not risen above a minimum value set point by the time the LPS actuates, then C1282 code is set. The problem of course is that C1282 locks in and requires you to fix something before you can clear it.

What to do about it - Address things that can cause the brake pressure to not rise high enough as the pedal is depressed. Old brake fluid or air in the system is most common. Bleed the system. If you are going to do it yourself, use Speedbleeders. You may need to bleed the VCM even though it’s a pain to get to. Keep in mind that if you DO actually have an air problem, the “by the book” method to bleed the system is by using BUDS in order to cycle the ABS valves during the process. And also a Brake Pressure Adaptation if necessary. You may or may not be successful in removing any trapped air bubble without BUDS. Give it a shot yourself or take it in.

To be clear, you don’t need BUDS if all you’ll need to do is flush out the old fluid. But any air trapped in the ABS unit may or may not be flushed out without it. And when you're all through, you'll still need to go through the reset process to clear the code. Be sure that you are standing on the pedal HARD, and keep standing on it well after you turn off the key until the display shuts down.

Other causes are leaks, excessively worn brake pads, and worst case scenario, a failing master cylinder or caliper. Did they replace ALL pads or just the fronts? Any leaks or weeping bleed fittings? Check it all.

Or - unless you were joking, if you want to get out from under these maintenance issues with a 10 year old machine, trade it in. Who knows, you might get an offer from somebody on here. Good Luck.

[GeorgeXP700]

Shot in the dark. Sounds like just about everything has been changed except for the reservoir. The float switch could be the cause? Maybe bypassing the switch and try.

[wilpir]

Bled the brakes ..didnt clear the code and now I have another warning message..Parking brake failure! Gonna take it to dealer again! probably another $1000 on a so called repair when it was used rarely..anybody with some gasoline and a match!! Or off to the desert and shoot it and bury it!! LOL

[ARtraveler]

I know this sounds like an over simplification of your problem, but pre Brembo brakes (2012 and earlier) have very sensitive fluid level sensors. As the pads wear even a little, the fluid level goes down and your brake failure lights come on. On my 2012, a table spoon or so of dot 4 brings it back up, the lights go out, and all is well. If you haven't already, then give this a try. Works for me. Good luck.

x2 A very common thing for my older spyders. The teaspoon or tablespoon of fluid did the trick most of the time. There was NEVER a brake issue...just down a miniscule amount of the brake fluid.

[wilpir]

Yes filled the brake fluid 1st thing it did not clear the code....

[BertRemington]

So you replaced the brake fluid four times before your dealer did it 2000 miles ago?

The math ain't adding up for me. I'm sticking with BajaRon -- it's a caliper.

[davev1pa]

I've had a brake failure message several times..I've reset it myself several times after numerous attempts! I've also taken it in to the dealer twice in 2 yrs... 1st time they did a flush, new pads, reset, ect at a cost of almost $1000! 2nd time they just reset - cost... $275! This time, I've been trying for over a month and it wont reset... I'm at my wits end! Is there another trick or something to do before I trade it in (2012 RT Limited only 10000 miles, 2000 since the brake job) on a Vanderhall! Thanx for any help

So you filled the chamber with DOT 4 -banged a lil on the floats and got them up to the top floating-bled the brakes as well as possible- Spent $ 1275 in 2 years at the dealer- worked well for 2k until last month when you got a few codes -received a lot of opinions here pho phreee -may I ask other than the warning lights-are your brakes working and is the parking brake working? LONG shot here....disconnect the battery overnight....and that's a Hail Mary but your in my prayers.

[wilpir]

Thanx everybody! I tried disconnecting the battery thing 2000 miles ago before taking it in..All kinds of problems..Started shifting all by itself lights flashing..took it in replaced battery, brakes. clear codes ect all for the original brake failure warning..like I said maybe I've have lemon but this bike is driving me nukin futz!!

[UtahPete]

Bled the brakes ..didnt clear the code and now I have another warning message..Parking brake failure! Gonna take it to dealer again! probably another $1000 on a so called repair when it was used rarely..anybody with some gasoline and a match!! Or off to the desert and shoot it and bury it!! LOL

Which dealer? It does make a difference!

[UtahPete]

I've had a brake failure message several times..I've reset it myself several times after numerous attempts! I've also taken it in to the dealer twice in 2 yrs... 1st time they did a flush, new pads, reset, ect at a cost of almost $1000! 2nd time they just reset - cost... $275! This time, I've been trying for over a month and it wont reset... I'm at my wits end! Is there another trick or something to do before I trade it in (2012 RT Limited only 10000 miles, 2000 since the brake job) on a Vanderhall! Thanx for any help

Did you buy it from the dealer or what?

[Grandpot]

This works on a 2011RTS. Not sure about a 2012.

Brake Warning Reset Procedure
If you do not have any codes, but still have a brake warning, it is possible the low pressure switch has been activated. There are three switches in the brake circuit. 1. Brake light switch, 2. Hydraulic pressure switch, and 3. Low pressure switch (this is really a limit switch that just senses the pedal has traveled too far). This can be reset by the following procedure.

After a low pressure switch (LPS) problem has
been solved, it is necessary to clear the occurred
fault in the VCM as follows:
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Wait 30 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch ON.
4. Press the brake pedal, you should hear two clicks.
NOTE: The 1st click will come from the brake light
switch. Continue to strongly press the brake pedal to hear
a 2nd click. This one will come from the low pressure
switch. You may not hear the click, just push the pedal real hard.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF.
6. Wait 30 seconds.
7. Turn ignition switch ON.
8. Validate fault was cleared.
What caused the condition in the first place? This has happened to me a couple of times. When the parking brake is ON and your foot is on the brake pedal, then you release the parking brake, you will feel the brake pedal go down an additional amount. If it goes down far enough to activate the 3rd switch, that is when you get the brake failure message. Now I'm just careful of the pressure I put on the brake pedal when I release the parking brake. No more problems.

[canamjhb]

There are only 2 dealerships in this area that I know about. Both have more than one store. Ride Now and Nash Motorsports. I have delt with them both. Never had a good experience with Ride Now, not ONE! Nash was a bit better. If it were me, I'd arrange to have the bike hauled to Sierra Cycles in Sierra Vista. Probably 175 miles but worth it. IMHO..... Jim