I think those pix are from his older V-twin motor. The next page has the pix for the triple. I couldn't move the HTML file but if you search around Mike's profile you'll find it on the second page.
I'll try and get a pix of my intake mod soon.
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
There is a thin horizontal piece ( NOT the chrome one but behind it) that I may try to remove yet. The pix doesn't do justice to the amount the intake area was opened up. It is much more free flowing that stock and it's all but un-noticeable. Also draws higher pressure air ( at speed ) in the front of the bike than at the wheel well.
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
There is a thin horizontal piece ( NOT the chrome one but behind it) that I may try to remove yet. The pix doesn't do justice to the amount the intake area was opened up. It is much more free flowing that stock and it's all but un-noticeable. Also draws higher pressure air ( at speed ) in the front of the bike than at the wheel well.
Lew L
Lew I removed the entire thing and it was a *itch & a 1/2 .... after done I thought I should have just cut it out ..... However if you remove it you can still do something with it..... One of the benfits of doing what I did was EASE of removing and replacing the entire FRUNK .... and of course I get lots more air ......good luick .... Mike
Lew I removed the entire thing and it was a *itch & a 1/2 .... after done I thought I should have just cut it out ..... However if you remove it you can still do something with it..... One of the benfits of doing what I did was EASE of removing and replacing the entire FRUNK .... and of course I get lots more air ......good luick .... Mike
I knew there was a good reason I was reluctant to remove the frunk (I still avoid it).
There is a thin horizontal piece ( NOT the chrome one but behind it) that I may try to remove yet. The pix doesn't do justice to the amount the intake area was opened up. It is much more free flowing that stock and it's all but un-noticeable. Also draws higher pressure air ( at speed ) in the front of the bike than at the wheel well.
Lew L
Are you aware that the intake duct you modified has a huge inlet opening just aft of what you cut up? The entire duct, even in the reduced cross section portions remains larger than the bore of the throttle body.
Just this evening I reinstalled the intake duct into the frunk portion of our 2014 after installing heat management material. I tested and found the inlet air temps approximately 30*f above ambient at times, which is more than I care for.
The 2020 and newer Spyder RT series located the radiators outboard of the bodywork, essentially appendage’s on each side. This likely was to reduce intake heat. The 2020 also does not utilize the long duct from the primary airbox to the left front bodywork. Similar to what Mike did, without cutting a hole, the 2020 and newer Spyders pull air in from under the bodywork. With outboard radiators they can do this as this is a cooler location than 2019 and prior that require the duct, unless you cut the bodywork.
Are you aware that the intake duct you modified has a huge inlet opening just aft of what you cut up? The entire duct, even in the reduced cross section portions remains larger than the bore of the throttle body.
Just this evening I reinstalled the intake duct into the frunk portion of our 2014 after installing heat management material. I tested and found the inlet air temps approximately 30*f above ambient at times, which is more than I care for.
The 2020 and newer Spyder RT series located the radiators outboard of the bodywork, essentially appendage’s on each side. This likely was to reduce intake heat. The 2020 also does not utilize the long duct from the primary airbox to the left front bodywork. Similar to what Mike did, without cutting a hole, the 2020 and newer Spyders pull air in from under the bodywork. With outboard radiators they can do this as this is a cooler location than 2019 and prior that require the duct, unless you cut the bodywork.
I looked for this " huge inlet opening' and couldn't find it aft of the modded opening. Is it in the " engine bay" , under the tuppeware? I may break out the remote camera for a better look but little better description of where this opening is would really help.
Thanks for your input,
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
There is a thin horizontal piece ( NOT the chrome one but behind it) that I may try to remove yet. The pix doesn't do justice to the amount the intake area was opened up. It is much more free flowing that stock and it's all but un-noticeable. Also draws higher pressure air ( at speed ) in the front of the bike than at the wheel well.
Lew L
Do you have any more pics that would help illustrate what you did and where? I'm having a difficult time visualizing it. Thanks.
Do you have any more pics that would help illustrate what you did and where? I'm having a difficult time visualizing it. Thanks.
Hi Pete,
Pix are difficult as everything is BLACK. Try this: Sit in front of the spyder, put your left hand into the opening shown. You will feel the baffle. There is an opening just behind it causing the incoming air to turn( slow down). I removed the baffle by drilling and cutting with hacksaw blade in a little handle. Now that you can get your fingers in there, you can feel the "floor" on the intake duct. This was heated ( slowly and carefully) and pushed down to make an "intake scoop".
I'll try to PM you more pix,
Lew L
Lew
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
Hi Pete, Pix are difficult as everything is BLACK.
Try this: Sit in front of the spyder, put your left hand into the opening shown. You will feel the baffle. There is an opening just behind it causing the incoming air to turn( slow down). I removed the baffle by drilling and cutting with hacksaw blade in a little handle. Now that you can get your fingers in there, you can feel the "floor" on the intake duct. This was heated ( slowly and carefully) and pushed down to make an "intake scoop".
Lew
I think I understand now. The Hopnel label showing in your picture threw me off a bit. I still don't get why I can see that if it's inside your frunk.
Did you happen to see/feel the opening that PMK mentioned.\??? I couldn't find anything other opening further down the intake pipe. BUT maybe right after the part I heated there was a hole that I may close to use the openings I made to have a straight entrance without any turbulence. Just a little something I've learned about ram air intakes.
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
Did you happen to see/feel the opening that PMK mentioned.\??? I couldn't find anything other opening further down the intake pipe. BUT maybe right after the part I heated there was a hole that I may close to use the openings I made to have a straight entrance without any turbulence. Just a little something I've learned about ram air intakes.
Lew L
Lew have you ever had the frunk off ???? .... you can see the entire plastic intake ..... Mike
Did you happen to see/feel the opening that PMK mentioned.\??? I couldn't find anything other opening further down the intake pipe. BUT maybe right after the part I heated there was a hole that I may close to use the openings I made to have a straight entrance without any turbulence. Just a little something I've learned about ram air intakes.
Lew L
No, I haven't tried poking around in there yet. I think I'll wait until I remove the frunk this summer. I have some maintenance items to take care of (various filters and maybe spark plugs) that will be easier without the frunk in the way I think. Also, a BajaRon sway bar, the new one.
Yes I have but I was doing the DESS R&R. I think the opening that PMK is talking about is on the bottom of the intake tube.
I'll bet you have that piece lying about after your intake changes????
..... you bet I rarely throw anything away .... If you tip the frunk forward and stand it on it's nose ( with help ) the blk intake is attached to the left side ..... good luck ... Mike
Did you happen to see/feel the opening that PMK mentioned.\??? I couldn't find anything other opening further down the intake pipe. BUT maybe right after the part I heated there was a hole that I may close to use the openings I made to have a straight entrance without any turbulence. Just a little something I've learned about ram air intakes.
Lew L
Lew since I actually removed the entire piece there ARE only TWO OPENINGS , the END that connects to the airbox ( rubber elbow ) and the smaller " slit " at the bottom .... I think PMK was referring to way the INTAKE piece is shaped .... relatively small at both ends, but the middle bulges out quite a bit ..... Mike
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-20-2022 at 06:42 PM.
Reason: quitye ;-)
Lew since I actually removed the entire piece there ARE only TWO OPENINGS , the END that connects to the airbox ( rubber elbow ) and the smaller " slit " at the bottom .... I think PMK was referring to way the INTAKE piece is shaped .... relatively small at both ends, but the middle bulges out quite a bit ..... Mike
Said "bulge" will cause a pressure drop in a ram air system. I'm not saying that what I've done is " ram Air" by any stretch, but what I have done will feed the low pressure in the intake tube better.
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
This is the intake ducting and airboxes from a 2014 RTS. At the forward end, just aft of what Lew cut away, is a huge air inlet. Forward of the radiator, aft of the front edge.
The complete induction system prior to the throttle body is in one photo. Note the large unrestricted opening at the forward end of the duct.
The second photo, unfortunately does not show the entire length of the air duct. At the right side end of the photo, the inlet is visible.
I've looked with an endoscope to try to find this opening and I can't find it......
PMK, Does the opening face down?? Where does it draw intake air from?? I know it's not forward and above the radiator that can be seen from the front. Is the opening to the side?? Upwards???
Help----------My curiosity is getting the better of me.
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
I've looked with an endoscope to try to find this opening and I can't find it......
PMK, Does the opening face down?? Where does it draw intake air from?? I know it's not forward and above the radiator that can be seen from the front. Is the opening to the side?? Upwards???
Help----------My curiosity is getting the better of me.
Lew, I think in the first picture the opening is visible at the top of the image (hard to see because it's black on black). In the second picture, which seems to be after the reflective heat film is applied, the opening is clearly visible to the right. The 'bulge' is seen as a concave portion of the tube.
I think what PMK is saying is that even with the constriction in the tube there is adequate air flow and the existing duct inlet brings in plenty of cold air. But, the tube passing thru the engine compartment picks up too much heat energy which is why he wrapped it in foil and why Can-Am subsequently made changes to the way intake air is routed to the engine to mitigate the heat gain.
Lew, I think in the first picture the opening is visible at the top of the image (hard to see because it's black on black). In the second picture, which seems to be after the reflective heat film is applied, the opening is clearly visible to the right. The 'bulge' is seen as a concave portion of the tube.
I think what PMK is saying is that even with the constriction in the tube there is adequate air flow and the existing duct inlet brings in plenty of cold air. But, the tube passing thru the engine compartment picks up too much heat energy which is why he wrapped it in foil and why Can-Am subsequently made changes to the way intake air is routed to the engine to mitigate the heat gain.
Correct.
When assembled, the actual air inlet is forward of the radiator, at a height similar to the top of the radiator. I posted the photo of all the air inlet components as they are situated in the Spyder. You may need to zoom in on the photo, and yes it is black making details less apparent.
While Mike has added a scoop to bring in cool air, he also removed a large area of duct that becomes heat soaked. Doing this no doubt reduced heat. Had Mike gone a step further, he might have considered adding his elbow scoop on the Spyders right side. Doing this he could have removed all the plastic ducts and airboxes. A simple filter with a shroud would feed directly to the throttle body. Downside could be intake noise though.
Hopefully the heat mitigation material I am installing will lower intakes temps closer to ambient. Seeing temps of the air feeding the engine, being 30*f above ambient is not conducive to making power or an efficient engine.
I've looked with an endoscope to try to find this opening and I can't find it......
PMK, Does the opening face down?? Where does it draw intake air from?? I know it's not forward and above the radiator that can be seen from the front. Is the opening to the side?? Upwards???
Help----------My curiosity is getting the better of me.
The opening is behind where you chopped up the plastic. The item you heated and distorted partially feeds the actual air intake. Once you disassemble and remove the duct, it will be apparent how well the inlet was designed. It uses positive pressure inside the radiator nacelle, but forward of the radiator exhaust heated air, to feed the engine air.
The air inlet location on the 2014 to 2019 is superior to the 2020 and later RT series. These 2014 / 2019 models have a true positive pressure inlet with adequate duct cross section for the size of the throttle body. Heat is what kills the design.
The 2020 and after use essentially the same primary airbox, but Can Am omitted the inlet duct. Therefore a 2020 and after draws intake air from under the bodywork. Simple aerodynamics would suggest this is a low pressure area, not ideal for positive induction air feed to the airbox. Can Am moved the radiators outboard of the bodywork in 2020. An obvious attempt to cool the underside of the bodywork. Because of this, adding an elbow scoop as Mike did, may induce better air entry , but also may introduce heated air.
From an efficiency standpoint, the more tightly designed body shape of the pre 2020 Spyder RT, and the smaller overall size, plus the more compact radiator placement should make the 2014 / 2019 better aerodynamically and therefore more efficient. What kills it though is heat being added to the cold air induction, robbing a lot of available power. The heat reduces air density. Less dense air makes less power. You can modify the oem inlet to be twice as large, the location is not going to add any pressure or flow beyond what oem has. Even with that, once within the system, that trapped air is quickly heated.
If the oem primary airbox were to have an exhaust added, so cool air could constantly flow while moving, vs being dead ended (except for consumed air), this may lower airbox and air duct temp somewhat. This airbox exhaust would need to exit at a know point that would not allow heated air from under the bodywork to enter the airbox.
Originally Posted by Bangorbob
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.... If you tip the frunk forward and stand it on it's nose ( with help ) the blk intake is attached to the left side ..... good luck ... Mike 
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