Solo to Alaska

[ARtraveler]

Beautiful place EH!

[Carol62449]

Scott has made it to Dawson City, Yukon! However, Google fiber has not yet made it to the northern Yukon so he is unable to post tonight (top speed of 9.5mps). If his accommodations tomorrow don't allow him to upload photos and post, we will work out another plan to send pictures and daily log to me and I will post for him.
Thanks for following along.
Carol Smith

[Rednaxs60]

Good to hear that Scott made it to Dawson City. Quite the epic journey.

[blacklightning]

Wonderful stories and pictures. Thanks for sharing.

[RickWB]

Scott has made it to Dawson City, Yukon! However, Google fiber has not yet made it to the northern Yukon so he is unable to post tonight (top speed of 9.5mps). If his accommodations tomorrow don't allow him to upload photos and post, we will work out another plan to send pictures and daily log to me and I will post for him.
Thanks for following along.
Carol Smith

Thanks for posting, Carol. We would have wondered what happened with the gap in regular postings.

[davev1pa]

Thank you Carol62449 !!

[Scotts8826]

June 25th
Watson Lake to Whitehorse

My bio-clock had me up at 5:22 am this morning. Since this is a dormitory style "lodge”, I stayed in bed so not to wake anyone else up. There is no coffee in this room. There is a pot in the main entry area, but you must grab the pot and make it. At 6 am I tip-toed down the hall to the restroom. I encountered a motorcycle rider who was getting ready to leave. Since I had no coffee, no decent WiFi and no breakfast, there was no reason for me to hang around either so, I got my gear packed and put the Spyder in “quiet” gear. I filled my tank, had another look at the Sign Post Forest and continued North.

This was a short day in the saddle for me, only five hours. Since I left early, I would get to Whitehorse way before check-in at the motel. I was feeling a little blasé about the day’s ride. I see interesting things and beautiful scenery, but It comes at the cost of hours upon hours of seat time.

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I was worried about a truck pulling a travel trailer. He was in front of me and pulled into a place that was supposed to sell gas, but I had previously seen a “closed” sign posted a few miles back. The second gas stop I pulled into. Never pass up gas. But the pumps had covers all over all of them and the little convenience store did not have the “Open” sign lit. As I was pulling out the travel trailer pulled in too. I have enough to get to Teslin without any trouble but wonder if the travel trailer made it because it was still an hour away.

As I neared the village of Teslin, the Nisutlin Bridge crosses the Yukon River. It is a metal bridge that was designed in 1953. It is an iconic landmark of the Alaska Highway but is nearing the end of its lifespan and is designated to be replaced.

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Once I crossed the bridge, I stopped to get gas at the Yukon Motel and Restaurant. Outside of larger cities, you must go inside to purchase your gas because there is no internet or digital connection between the pumps and the Cloud. I will almost swear that the card readers inside the mom-and-pop store are on dial-up. While I was inside paying for my regular gas, I saw the diner looked passable and decided to eat a late breakfast (it was 10 am). I had a Denver style omelet with potatoes and bread. Since I was in no hurry, I had 2 cups of coffee. My attitude on the day changed dramatically once I had a full belly and a healthy dose of caffeine.

Just a short way out of Teslin I saw my first BEAR! I hit the Brembo’s and turned around on the highway. I pulled over so I was looking across the road at him about 20 yards off the road. A big, black bear looking back at me! My gaze fixated on him until I was sure he had no interest in me. When I saw the bear look away from me, I pulled off my gloves, got the lock off the camera and was ready to take a picture, but he had walked on into the forests. Nuts! Hopefully, I’ll have other opportunities.

It was on 1:00 pm when I made it to Whitehorse, Yukon. My destination for the day. Whitehorse has a population of 28,000 and that comprises 75% of all the people living in the Yukon territory.

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I went on to the motel knowing I was too early to check-in, but I was going to ask the attendant what I could do for a couple of hours. I was a happy camper as she had a room ready! So, I checked in, unloaded my stuff, and then went to see the SS Klondike. An old Stern Wheeler. Turns out the ship is being refurbished. There are guided tours, but you can only go on the front bow and look through the windows at the interior. No thanks. So, I walked part of the 4K river walk that starts at the Klondike, eventually crosses the Yukon and loops back to the starting point.

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[blacklightning]

Thanks so much for the pictures and letting us ride along in our minds. I am looking at doing some touring in the next couple of years and can't decide if I want to do this on my Spyder or my BMW K1600B. I love the feeling of riding the 2 wheeler, but at the same time feel like the stability of the 3 wheeler would be an asset. My biggest concern about the spyder is that if I get on some roads that might have the smaller gravel or tar and pebble set up, I might have trouble with the belt drive. I see some roads in these photos that appear to have some gravel. How is the spyder doing in those situations?
Thanks again.

[bikerbillone]

Thanks for posing the question lightning. I'm also waiting for Scott to comment on how the Spyder is performing.

[ARtraveler]

Thanks so much for the pictures and letting us ride along in our minds. I am looking at doing some touring in the next couple of years and can't decide if I want to do this on my Spyder or my BMW K1600B. I love the feeling of riding the 2 wheeler, but at the same time feel like the stability of the 3 wheeler would be an asset. My biggest concern about the spyder is that if I get on some roads that might have the smaller gravel or tar and pebble set up, I might have trouble with the belt drive. I see some roads in these photos that appear to have some gravel. How is the spyder doing in those situations?
Thanks again.

There are lots of gravel roads as well as sometimes, a 20 mile or so construction zone. For the most part, we stayed off of them if possible. Going slow is a must so as not to throw rocks. I replaced two belts on Spyders between 2008 and 2019. One...I rode on a campground gravel road for less than a mile. Did not break the belt...but damaged it enough I thought it best to replace. Two...happened in my driveway in the spring. For a good laugh...see the thread "Stupid Pills" from around 2011 or so. I dug a hole in the soft gravel and the belt snapped in half. A $500 fix (including the tow).

UNHIJACK:

[Scotts8826]

June 26, 2022
Whitehorse to Dawson City, Yukon

My hotel room in Whitehorse was ok, but the window A/C was loud. I let it blow as cold as it could get before I unplugged it for the night. I slept ok. I was up early and on the road at 7 am. I guess I will need to up my hotel budget if I want good internet and a decent HVAC system.
I am venturing off the Alaskan Highway for a couple of days. Leaving Whitehorse, I took Canadian Highway 2 which is the Yukon Highway to Dawson City. Dawson is an old mining town which has kept its turn of the century architecture and ambiance. Another reason I headed in this direction was to ride the Top of the World Highway. A dirt and gravel road leading to the most northern land-based border crossing in the United States. Yes, tomorrow I will finally be in Alaska!
I was afraid I may have gotten to the point that I am taking what I see on my ride for granted. I made sure to stop and take a few pictures this morning.
This pink flower bush was lining both sides of the highway. It was such a bright and happy touch.

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There are so many beautiful lakes and rivers that I’ve lost count.
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The Klondike Highway is just like the Alaskan Highway for gas. I had pinpointed the stops for gas before I left. At one stop I stayed long enough to enjoy a coffee and stretched my legs around the lot. What should appear but another Spyder! He pulled up to me and we started talking about our respective trips. He is going to Dawson City and the Top of the World Highway with his buddy on a Honda Goldwing. So, there will be at least two Spyders on the TOTW tomorrow.

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This is a gas stop at Stewart Crossing. It was my last one before Dawson City, about 111 miles away.

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Just a few miles from getting gas I saw another bear! I immediately stopped and struggled for my camera. He was still a way up the road, but I wanted to be ready. I took a few long-range pictures but then a truck flew past me and scared the bear back into the bushes. I slowly made my way up the road and looked in the bushes where he had previously been and there he was, sitting there, staring back at me as I drove by. Not a great picture but now I have proof I’ve seen a bear.

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Soon after, the ride turned nasty.


Potholes and frost heaves started showing up. Initially they would be marked with a cone or a flag. Not all of them were marked so you had to be vigilant. Some would be minor while others would be trouble. Then, there were so many whoever was placing flags must have given up. Potholes would be buckshot all over the road or there would be maneater size holes. I hit one with my right tire and I hoped it wouldn’t blow out!

I wager that the next 30-40 miles were under construction. The whole road was torn up and left with dirt and gravel. Some places it looked like the primary road was being replaced, others it looked like the road was being moved. We would wait for a pilot car who would lead us through several miles of chewed up road at 20 mph. Then we would have three or four miles of open road and then another stop sign to wait for a pilot car. So much for the extra hour I had by leaving Whitehorse early!

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There was nothing to do but keep on going. When I was about 40 miles from Dawson City the construction finally ended, and I could keep a steady 55 miles per hour pace. Keep going and you’ll eventually get there.

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I checked into my hotel, cleaned up and went into town. The town started emphasizing its history as a gold mining town to attract tourism about 15 years ago. They had kept their turn of the century architecture with dirt streets and boardwalks instead of sidewalks. The dirt streets may be more of a practical thing. I had a specialty burger and a Yukon gold Pale Ale at the Triple JJJ motel. I sat in the outdoor area under the umbrellas in the picture.

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After dinner I rode up the Dome Road which provided a majestic overlook of the city below.

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There is some nightlife going on tonight at Diamond Tooth Gerties Gambling Hall with Can-Can girls. I’ll need to miss it because I have an early morning date with the Top of the World Highway ��

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[Scotts8826]

June 27, 2022

Dawson City to Tok, Alaska

I’ve been booking my hotels only 2-3 days out so I could be as flexible as I could be for this trip. Weather conditions, bike issues or even me just being tired could impact the journey. Some of these hotels have no refund so I need to be sure that I can make the destination. My wife, Carol, had previously booked a room for me in Tok, but now I was getting into a jam with hotel reservations. I called Carol and we spent a good hour and a half if not more looking at options. Changing my destination south rather than north, taking a rest day later, changing the itinerary can all potentially open a date for a hotel room. Anyway, with her help and access to our Google WiFi, we were able to put together the next four nights. But now, it was after 9 am and I had to get on the road.

You must cross the Yukon River to reach the Top of the World Highway but there is no bridge to cross. You take a ferry. A new bridge has been proposed but the Dawson City residents seem content with their ferry. West Dawson City residents simply walk over the frozen Yukon River in the winter.

The ferry holds about eight cars. The current is so strong that the ferry is pushed down river when it turns around and spends most of the time moving upstream to the landing across the river. The river erodes the bank so much that each side had a bulldozer or dirt mover to drop loads of soil at the landing throughout the day.

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A sign posted on the start of the highway stated that the road does not have maintenance and should be driven at your own risk. This is a dirt and gravel road and was in fairly good shape. I was able to maintain about 40 MPH most of the time. I did come across a grader working on the road so they must do some maintenance. There was also lingering snow on the north side of the hills.

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There were only a few guard rails at the worst turns. Otherwise, if you moved over to a soft shoulder you could end up tumbling down the hill. Not good. I am not fond of heights, but I had to keep an eye on the road for potholes, so I didn’t spend too much time looking at scenery unless I had stopped the bike.

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I believe the highway is about 80 miles long which took me two hours to get to the border station. As the sign says, it is the most northernly border crossing in the United States. It is also the only checkpoint building shared by both US and Canadian customs. What can confuse people is it is only open during designated hours, but the US and Yukon are in different time zones. It is also closed during the winter.

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A smooth and quick check of my passport and BAM, I am in Alaska!

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The dirt and gravel road was not done with me, yet. The US side of the road was rougher but still had its share of scenery.

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I continued for another hour until I reached Chicken, Alaska The bike and I were filthy!

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Chicken, Alaska is not so much a town but a crossroads. There are only a handful of people who live there during the winter. Some original settlers wanted to call the place Ptarmigan but didn’t know how to spell it so they settled on Chicken. Which they also used to refer to Ptarmigans.

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The place must use generators for their power, but they have a mercantile, a saloon and a café. Also, a Chicken Poop outhouse around the corner.

I’m not sure when it moved in, but an RV park is now next door with its own compliment of amenities. Tourists usually want to visit the original Chicken! While in Chicken I met the two couples motorcycling from the same county I’m from. They had stayed on the Alaska Highway since Fort Nelson and warned me about the poor road conditions between the Alaska border and Destruction Bay. Full of nasty potholes and winding ribbons of frost heaves that can grab a motorcycle tire. Not what I wanted to hear after a tiring ride on the TOTW Highway.

I had about another hour and a half to reach Tok, Alaska. Guess who I met staying at the same hotel? Russ (Spyder) and Mike (Goldwing), the guys I met at the gas stop back in the Yukon. They invited me to join them for dinner and we talked about this trip and others we have been on. They were from Texas and New Mexico. They had been to Alaska before but had never ridden the TOTWH. So, they rode up, collected their stickers and t-shirts and were heading home tomorrow. By the way, Russ has a website at wtrrtw.net. He’s also a Spyderlovers member. Mike rides the Goldwing but he’s still a great guy, too.

I crossed another time zone so I’m now three hours earlier than my home. I don’t think I’ll need to set an alarm for tomorrow morning.

[Scotts8826]

Time to respond to a couple questions and some ramblings

My Spyder has been performing great! The Top of the World Highway was rough on it, though. The road was not terrible for a dirt road but there was constant clattering for 140 miles. Dirt and dust are everywhere. I did see a couple motorhomes and travel trailers and I bet the owners find dirt inside their RV’s for weeks to come.

I know Spyders don’t like their brakes dirty, and I took the bike to a car wash at an RV campground next door to my hotel in Tok. I sprayed everything down that I could in hopes the dirt doesn’t cause any issues.

I wanted to buy both a belt guard and a bump skid for my 2020 RTL, but I couldn’t find any for the new models, yet. Lamonster did not have them, so I had to take the trip without them. Yes, there will be rough patches in the northern part of the Alaska Highway. I wish I did have a bump skid because of the Spyders low nose. I cringe when I hit something. But 98% or more of the road you will be on over the entirety of the trip will be passable, paved surface roads. So far, I’ve had about 140 miles of dirt road from the TOTW (which you can avoid and not take) and about another 20 that was under construction. Not bad considering I’ve traveled almost 3,500 miles so far. Heading back south there is a rough spot going towards Destruction Bay. I’ll slow way down and let any truck or car pass me if they choose.

I’ve not had any issues with the Spyder so far. Not using any oil. Tires holding pressure. I’m not a mechanic so I don’t know what to make of some squeaks or clatters. I have hit a couple potholes and will probably hit some more on the way south, but she is being a good trooper. Once I get passed Whitehorse, overall the road is good.

Goldwing Mike said he saw Russ slide a bit with his Spyder F3 in a construction zone and him being on two wheels had more difficulty. The weather is tough on the roads and the crews work to keep them maintained and open. Canada and the Yukon Territory are doing the best they can with only 35,000 people total living in the Yukon Territory, the length of the road, the isolation of the road and the shortage of construction workers. In the more isolated areas, I’ve seen construction camps set up to house the workers while they repair bridges or roads. If you want to drive or ride to Alaska, the only option is the Alaska Highway.

I’m surprised at how many bicyclists there have been on the road. I saw a few on the Trans-Canada Highway, several on the Icefields Parkway, and a couple of them many days since riding the Alaska Highway. They are loaded down with gear but taking the trip in smaller segments.

You must beat back negative thinking while riding. You’ve got to trust the bike. Once I got north of Hinton, AB the road became more desolate. There will be 50-120 mile stretches of nothing. Just trees and the road ahead. You’ll ride 80 miles seeing a car about every 15-20 minutes until you get to a gas pump. Then you ride for another 100 miles alone again. Even on the road from Tok to Fairbanks it was a lightly traveled road.

*Spoiler Alert* My body is feeling the ride. My shoulders and back are feeling the tension of six hours a day in the saddle. I need rest every now and then and I did splurge on a massage at Chena Hot Springs Resort. It felt great and I’m hoping it helps keep my body in one piece for a couple more weeks.

My wife asked me a few days ago if I was enjoying the trip. I had to pause for a bit. This is not really a vacation. I’m not sitting on the beach under an umbrella with a pina colada in my hand. The enjoyment comes from seeing things many people don’t see and accomplishing it in a way fewer people can. People who fly or cruise to Alaska will see wonderful things. There are many things they will miss by doing so.

[bikerbillone]

Some good reading in this thread, thanks to Scot for his on the scene reporting. Anxious to hear how the Spyder held up on this arduous journey. BRP should give him a honorable recognition for this journey.

[Scotts8826]

June 28, 2022

Tok to Chena Hot Springs Resort

No, I did not need an alarm this morning. I was up at 4:40 am. I brewed up my hotel room coffee and checked the Internet connection. Not good. I’m convinced the router needed to be reset but the 20-year-old young lady at the hotel desk didn’t seem inclined to do it.
I lingered in the room as much as I could then started packing my bike for the day’s ride. Russ and Mike were outside doing the same thing. We exchanged our morning pleasantries and safe travels and soon we were all on the road.

I had been cruising along close to an hour and a half, getting close to Delta Junction. I saw something ahead that made me aggressively apply the brakes and Oh Man! It was a moose and her baby! I rolled past them and turned around and took a couple pictures. I was worried they would wander off, but they stayed near the road, and I stayed my distance.

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Delta Junction is the formal end of the Alaska Highway. A marker is by a visitor’s center. It is amazing to think about what the solders and contractors accomplished in 9 months’ time.

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I see lots of big stuff on this trip.

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I passed Eielson Air Force base. I saw a sign that said No Parking, No Stopping, No Pictures. I complied with the command for the safety of our troops! The fighter jets, and other large planes were impressive to look at. My Dad was a career Naval aviator and was stationed in Alaska in the late 1950’s. He flew a P-2 along the Soviet Union’s coastline to keep watch on the Soviets.

I had ridden so far north that the North Pole was my next stop! I decided to drop in and say “Hi” to Santa.
Of course, you have a big Santa.

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His home is not too shabby.

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His house is full of stuff he’s not giving away, but you can buy almost anything Christmas related.

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I missed Santa but that is alright, he already knows I’m a good boy.

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Some Reindeer waiting for their one day a year job.

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Coming out of the hotel room I had noticed a smoky haze and smell of fire in the air. It got worse as I neared Fairbanks. My nose was stinging, and I was getting a headache breathing this smoke. A number of people wore masks. I believe not for Covid but because of the smoke in the air.

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I wanted to do an activity in Fairbanks, and I visited the Museum of the North for an hour.
They had animals native to Alaska.

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Historical culture exhibits.

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Preserved specimen from the Ice Age.

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I also went to the Fairbanks Costco to pick up some protein bars I have for breakfast every day. Surprisingly, their prices were not outrageous and close to the US on many things. They even had the $5 roasted chicken. I stopped at a Safeway for a few items and their prices were much higher than the US.
Then it was on to Chena Hot Springs Resort. It is about an hour and a half east of Fairbanks. My wife got me a good price for a room, and it was time for a day off. Since I crossed into the Yukon and Alaska, three of my four hotel rooms did not have air conditioning and the one that did was loud and laboring. The hotel owners must think the summers are mild enough not to deal with it, and for me so far, it’s not been an issue.

I bet there are a few more things to do here tomorrow than there was at Dawson Creek.

[Scotts8826]

June 29, 2022

Rest day in Chena Hot Springs Resort

It is nice to wake up and not feel a need to start moving. Originally, I had given some thought about riding the Dalton Highway up to the Arctic Circle. After my day on the TOTW I decided I had enough adventure riding. While successful, it was a hard day on the Spyder and me both. I’ll be happy with my most northern destination being Fairbanks. I also had to make another change in my itinerary. Since I am hesitant to book anything too far out, I have missed the chance to go on a day cruise out of Seward to see wildlife and glaciers. So, while I’m sure the town is quaint and idyllic in its own way, I don’t need to take the time to visit it. Canceling the Artic Circle ride and Seward saves me a few days I might use elsewhere.

About 9:00 am I went to the namesake hot springs. Liard Hot Springs was more natural with a boardwalk and cabana built next to it. The Chena Hot Springs is more modernized. I talked to an employee, and he said the springs supplies the main water source, but they monitor it and will add colder water to maintain the temperature at 101-102 F. The hardscaping around the springs is also designed to still appear natural. There is also an indoor pool, a hot tub and a koi pond.

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At 11:00 am I had a deep tissue massage. After two weeks on the Spyder I could use some body repair. My hesitation with the deep tissue massage is that the masseuse will focus my tight, sore spots but I will get the most benefit from it. Sure enough it was like the best of both worlds. A relaxing massage with moments of pain slipped in. It felt great but I had to take some Ibuprofen afterward! She had her own little massage room in a standalone building next to the pool area.

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The resort grows many of its vegetables and herbs. There are a couple of greenhouses and herb gardens on the grounds.

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I visited the Ice Museum at 5 pm. Since I will be enjoying an Appletini, I booked a tour right before dinner. The Ice Museum was interesting and “cool”. They keep the insides below 25 F. Chena Hot Springs Resort has a resident ice sculptor who has 20 world championships and numerous other awards. He lives in Fairbanks but comes out to his workshop in the building to work on his projects.

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There are four bedrooms that tourists can book for the night at $600. Guests also receive a regular bedroom in case they want to bail and head back to a warm room.

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The bar serves Appletinis in ice carved glasses. They go through 17,000 of them a year. Tradition is a guest will make a wish and smash the glass outside. I just left mine to contemplate it’s final hours.

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It was a good “off” day. Tomorrow I’m riding past Denali as I head to Talkeetna.

[ARtraveler]

North of Fairbanks is another hot springs. Chena Hot Springs. About 50 miles N on the highway. All paved road, including the road to the Hot Springs. There are some "real hills" to climb up and ride down. When I first saw them, I was thinking, I will get down the hill, but will the Spyder make it back up? It did. There is a nice lodge/restaurant there also. Better than what you will find in Fairbanks.

RE Denali: You can ride your Spyder 15 miles into the park. As far as the Savage River. A very scenic 15 miles. To go beyond...and see the "big one" you have to take an all day tour bus.

You can also make a "loop" of sorts. Your going up the Parks Hwy #4. On the other side of Fairbanks is the Richardson Hwy which will take you back by Tok. Altogether different scenery from the Parks side. All paved.

[Yazz]

June 29, 2022
The bar serves Appletinis in ice carved glasses. They go through 17,000 of them a year. Tradition is a guest will make a wish and smash the glass outside. I just left mine to contemplate it’s final hours.
It was a good “off” day..

Best Appletini ever!

The road to the Arctic Circle is paved the whole way. There's a gas station between it and Fairbanks. You can ride up and back in less than a day.

Thank you for letting us ride along with you!

[Scotts8826]

June 30, 2022

Chena Hot Springs Resort to Talkeetna

I left CHSR and headed west towards Fairbanks. I was about 60 miles outside Fairbanks and the forest fire smoke got thicker as I neared Fairbanks. There are multiple fires going on, but they all seem to be from lightning strikes. No campfires or arson.

CHSR was a nice place for a layover. It is showing it’s age but they are trying to be progressive and keep the place up. You can do the hot springs and visit the Ice Museum as a one-day guest, so you do not have to stay overnight.

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I didn’t take many pictures on the way to Talkeetna because I thought the smoky haze would blot out the pictures. Those I took came out with reasonable clarity, but you can see a faint haze in a couple.

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I did not stop at Denali. I did not need to go on an 8-hour bus ride to see wildlife. I should have taken a picture or two but again, I thought it would be too faint. Oh, as far as wildlife, I saw another moose.

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After my arrival and shower at the motel, I was heading out and a gentleman stopped me. He had seen my license plate and said he lives in Minnesota, but his daughter is attending KU in the fall. She is studying Aerospace Engineering. He asked about restaurants and golf in Lawrence. He was waiting on the Denali train to come back south and pick him up. He had stayed in my room last night and he said he left a couple beers in the fridge. Great! I have a small cooler and typically don’t keep beers with me. When I returned from my walk into town the proprietor mentioned the beers in the fridge unless the housekeeping lady took them. Gasp! I had not considered that! They were gone. Housekeepers need a malt beverage after work, too.

Talkeetna has become a tourist stop. Some of the cruise ships add a land package and include this town on the way up to Denali. It is not a very big town, but it has become a very artistic centered town. Lots of original artwork and designs by local artists.

You’ll see gift shops and restaurants.

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A local brewery is always good.

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It was late afternoon, and these husbands were done with shopping.

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I had asked the hotel proprietor for a restaurant recommendation and said The Salmon Spot. It was a better Salmon Burger than what I had at CHSR.

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After a salmon burger I headed back to my room to see about playing some catch-up on my postings. I will have to wait on a frosty beer.

[Scotts8826]

Yazz,

I know you made it to Deadhorse. An admirable trip! Hopefully, readers will search the forum and read your ride report, too.

When I was sitting in my comfy chair at home, Deadhorse seemed like a long shot but the Arctic Circle seemed doable. After the Top of the World Highway I wanted to be sure both me and the bike could make the long trip home. Maybe I should have tried the Dalton Highway but when I was tired and dirty, it didn't seem like it was going to be fun. So, I went to Chena Hot Springs Resort and had a massage instead!

Thanks for reading!

[Air Force PAO]

I teach World Geography and am enjoying your reports immensely.

Keep 'em coming.

John

[Scotts8826]

July 1, 2022
Talkeetna to Homer, AK

I walked out of my hotel room ready to start loading my bike when I noticed my memory cushion with sheepskin was gone! I was shocked! Who would want to steal that? I was in a secluded, woody area in a small town. It was the first time I did not use my bike cover. Guess that taught me a lesson. Maybe a hawk or racoon took it thinking it was a dead animal?

So, after I finished mourning my loss, I headed toward Homer. I had to pass through Anchorage, so I decided to stop at a Costco and see if they had a memory cushion. The one I had was from them and I enjoy breaking up the long days by alternating the cushion and my stock seat. Turns out they did not have one. Rats! We had the sheepskin wrapped around the memory seat and my wife is not happy about it being stolen, by man or critter.

Scenery started to pop once I got out of Anchorage. The main road to the Kenai Peninsula was busy. The speed limit is 55 but I was going 45-50 most of the time. Fortunately, there were several pull offs for picture taking of the Turnagain Arm. The picture with the big rock in the foreground is Beluga Point.

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I map out my next day’s gas stops every evening. One of my stops was at the Alyeska/Girdwood turnoff. This is an upscale ski area that has plenty of activities in the summer. After my fill up I noticed the sign that said, “No service for 85 miles”. That explains the back up at the pumps. A good portion of the traffic turned toward Alyeska so the flow of traffic decreased.

I was cruising along at about 1:30 pm, thinking I was getting hungry and ready for a stop. Then I saw this! A small coffee shop on the side of the road. I found my oasis and pulled over for a coffee and a ham and cheese wrap from my cooler. I am not a coffee snob, I don’t like all the fancy, smancy things that is done to coffee nowadays, but I do like my cup of Joe.

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I was making progress in my days travel, and I was south of Soldotna. I passed up a scenic outlook sign and regretted it. I finally found another and stopped to take this shot. Pictures never do the real view justice but this is looking across the bay.

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I made it into Homer and checked in to my hotel room. The hotel I’m staying in is the Ocean Shore Hotel. An older hotel but one with a private deck off the back with a fantastic view.

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After getting checked-in I rode down to Homer Spit. Homer is known as the Halibut Capitol of the World. So of course, the spit was home to a huge marina with several captains offering halibut fishing.

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This long, narrow piece of land has many shops and restaurants and bars. I haven’t been to many places in Alaska, but Homer Spit is the most commercialized and touristy area I’ve been to. Maybe it is due to the fourth of July weekend.

The Salty Dawg is the most iconic saloon on the spit. I went in and took a couple of pictures. Its sort of small but as you can see, there are dollar bills pinned up everywhere. I didn’t buy a drink since I was going to have one at dinner, but I did buy the requisite t-shirt.

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I decided to have a taste of the local cuisine, namely halibut. I had halibut fish and chips and an Alaska White beer at this fine establishment. After adding tax and tip it was $55. Not your Long John Silver’s fare but the halibut was locally caught and delicious.

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Another interesting thing about the spit is they allow RV and tent camping. That probably adds to the tourist feel since so many people are camping here. The RV area was congested but it was not a bad place to pitch a tent.

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Homer is the last stop I will be making on my North Westward adventure. Tomorrow, I turn around and head home. I checked my odometer earlier today and it had over 4,700 miles on it since I left Kansas City. Still lots of miles and adventure to go.

[ARtraveler]

July 1, 2022
Talkeetna to Homer, AK

I walked out of my hotel room ready to start loading my bike when I noticed my memory cushion with sheepskin was gone! I was shocked! Who would want to steal that? I was in a secluded, woody area in a small town. It was the first time I did not use my bike cover. Guess that taught me a lesson. Maybe a hawk or racoon took it thinking it was a dead animal?

So, after I finished mourning my lose, I headed toward Homer. I had to pass through Anchorage, so I decided to stop at a Costco and see if they had a memory cushion. The one I had was from them and I enjoy breaking up the long days by alternating the cushion and my stock seat. Turns out they did not have one. Rats! We had the sheepskin wrapped around the memory seat and my wife is not happy about it being stolen, by man or critter.

Scenery started to pop once I got out of Anchorage. The main road to the Kenai Peninsula was busy. The speed limit is 55 but I was going 45-50 most of the time. Fortunately, there were several pull offs for picture taking of the Turnagain Arm. The picture with the big rock in the foreground is Beluga Point.

20220701_110837.jpg 20220701_111552.jpg

20220701_113901.jpg 20220701_122440.jpg

I map out my next day’s gas stops every evening. One of my stops was at the Alyeska/Girdwood turnoff. This is an upscale ski area that has plenty of activities in the summer. After my fill up I noticed the sign that said, “No service for 85 miles”. That explains the back up at the pumps. A good portion of the traffic turned toward Alyeska so the flow of traffic increased.

I was cruising along at about 1:30 pm, thinking I was getting hungry and ready for a stop. Then I saw this! A small coffee shop on the side of the road. I found my oasis and pulled over for a coffee and a ham and cheese wrap from my cooler. I am not a coffee snob, I don’t like all the fancy, smancy things that is done to coffee nowadays, but I do like my cup of Joe.

20220701_131247.jpg

I was making progress in my days travel, and I was south of Soldotna. I passed up a scenic outlook sign and regretted it. I finally found another and stopped to take this shot. Pictures never do the real view justice but this is looking across the bay.

20220701_154159.jpg

I made it into Homer and checked in to my hotel room. The hotel I’m staying in is the Ocean Shore Hotel. An older hotel but one with a private deck off the back with a fantastic view.

20220701_162605.jpg

After getting checked-in I rode down to Homer Spit. Homer is known as the Halibut Capitol of the World. So of course, the spit was home to a huge marina with several captains offering halibut fishing.

20220701_164954.jpg 20220701_165830.jpg


This long, narrow piece of land has many shops and restaurants and bars. I haven’t been to many places in Alaska, but Homer Spit is the most commercialized and touristy area I’ve been to. Maybe it is due to the fourth of July weekend.

The Salty Dawg is the most iconic saloon on the spit. I went in and took a couple of pictures. Its sort of small but as you can see, there are dollar bills pinned up everywhere. I didn’t buy a drink since I was going to have one at dinner, but I did buy the requisite t-shirt.

20220701_165750.jpg 20220701_165325.jpg

I decided to have a taste of the local cuisine, namely halibut. I had halibut fish and chips and an Alaska White beer at this fine establishment. After adding tax and tip it was $55. Not your Long John Silver’s fare but the halibut was locally caught and delicious.

20220701_171658.jpg 20220701_172914.jpg

Another interesting thing about the spit is they allow RV and tent camping. That probably adds to the tourist feel since so many people are camping here. The RV area was congested but it was not a bad place to pitch a tent.

20220701_175544.jpg

Homer is the last stop I will be making on my North Westward adventure. Tomorrow, I turn around and head home. I checked my odometer earlier today and it had over 4,700 miles on it since I left Kansas City. Still lots of miles and adventure to go.

You sure captured all the "good stuff." This is our old stomping grounds. Also stayed at the motel you mentioned. And....also been to the Salty Dawg.

Also think a critter took the seat pad. Never had anyone mess with our bikes the whole time we were in AK. Even left a key in one of the Spyders overnight in Fairbanks...at a busy hotel. Still there in the morning.

[Scotts8826]

July 2, 2022

Homer to Palmer, AK

Up and at ‘em at 7:30 am this morning. I have only a five-hour saddle day which I consider a short day.

I was only on the road for about 45 minutes when I saw another Moose! He was by the road eating by a hedge row. I quickly slowed down, and let another car pass me. I prepared myself this time. I got my gloves off, my camera ready and I turned around. He was by a large hedge row near a turn off, so I had to go down the adjoining road a bit. He was only 30 feet from me. I was a little nervous about being so close. I tried to take a picture, but my GPS had minimized right onto the shutter button! Man, it’s always something. He didn’t like me being so close and turned away and walked off into the bushes. Missed my picture. When I reached my motel room this afternoon, I saw that I had also clicked the video button and I have a 2 second video of the moose!

A sign I passed said that there were 256 moose killed on Kenai Peninsula roads last year. Outside of Anchorage I saw another one that said 180 had been killed on Matsu roads. The signs are meant as a warning to drivers to be cautious because there are a lot of moose and vehicle incidents in Alaska.

When I got into Soldotna for gas, I also checked my oil. It had been several days since I had checked it. It was a little low, so I topped it off with the sweet nectar of oil the Can-Am dealer sold me at $16 a quart. I checked my travel odometer and it said 5,004 miles. Not bad for my first oil top off. Tires still looking good. Tracking well.

I ended up riding all the way into Anchorage. It was about 2 ½ hours from Soldotna. The two-lane road through the Kenai Peninsula is crowded with RV traffic. Again, it may be the extra July 4th weekend traffic but when I was able to pass an RV going 40 mph in a 55-mph zone I hated to stop and lose ground on another RV. I can’t say an RV is a bad way to tour Alaska, just slow. The best picture taking spots were on the opposite side of the road by the bay which also had a steady stream of traffic I would have to cross twice. I had visited these stops on the way in so there was nothing new for me to see.

Since I arrived in Anchorage early, I did some housekeeping in Anchorage. Restocked my cooler and bought some snacks and a couple of souvenirs.
I arrived at Palmer at 2 pm. One of my earliest destination arrival times the entire trip. There was a sign posted on the office door that no check-ins until 3 pm. I noticed a large, modern supermarket coming into town with a Starbucks logo on it. I went and had a nice coffee in the air-conditioned store for an hour and picked up a couple more goodies. I went back at 3:15 and will enjoy an afternoon in my room.

This will be a first for my trip. No pictures. Sorry about that. I’ll still plan to take some along the way.

Tomorrow I am entering the unreliable zone of the WiFi. I may not be able to post for a couple days until I ride through it. I am back in Tok where I had a poor connection coming in and then I am in Haines Junction, Yukon and Watson Lake, Yukon. Poor connections and reliability all around I’m afraid.

[Scotts8826]

STUCK IN ALASKA!

Found myself in a bind. It turns out the Alaska Highway is closed south of Watson Lake due to the road washing out. I don't see this getting fixed soon!

https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/north...hout-1.6508744

I now have to take the Cassiar highway. I am not as familiar with the Cassiar highway. Anybody know good hotels and gas stops?

For those of you who have traveled this before, I am open to suggestions.

Appreciate your help!
Scott