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  1. #1
    Active Member MrMagicFingers's Avatar
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    Default Fuel Tank Vent hose route needed... any pics?

    Hey Guys...

    So I am doing a bunch of work to my wife’s 2010 RTS. One of the things on the list is the canisterectomy.

    That being said, I am looking for the best spot to route the new fuel tank vent hose. I know some people route it to the front over the engine and others to the rear. The ones to the rear are either hi or low where they stop.

    What does consensus say is the best spot? I am thinking rear.

    I really am looking for pictures. Does anyone have any pictures of the actual route they took for the hose and where they ended? I have been searching but have not found what I am looking for.

    I just got done replacing the sparkplug wires, cleaning out the air box from the most sticky oil residue I have ever come across. I was surprised at how much oil was in there. I only did this the early spring of last year before our trip!

    I also cleaned the throttle body. I had our first trip last year on this ruined by a limp-home code (forget the number) that said that basically the butterflies didn’t match the grip in the fly by wire system. As it turns out they were so dirty and sticky to the point they were not even closing by themselves with its own spring return. I got them all cleaned up and sparkly new and they work so much better. I am pretty sure I nabbed the problem.

    After I complete the fuel system issues, I am going to put in a catch-can type system for the crank case breather. It certainly will NOT be going back to the air box even with that fuel filter workaround!! I have a spare system from a GW1500 that I will be using for this – vented to atmosphere with a small container and a drain tube.

    Pictures attached cause... well... everyone loves pictures. Hahaha

    BajaRon – Great plug wires!!!!

    Tim
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    Current - 2010 Spyder RTS

    1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
    2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
    3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
    ___

    Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.

    The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?

    Please check out my pics!!


  2. #2
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Default

    I have a 2010 RT and did the plugs, wires, hoses and the canister delete back in 2019 so my memory is a bit dicey on some of the details, but I routed the hose aft somewhere on the left side of the bike (facing forward) and ended it around the back behind the tire. The idea was that if it was overfilled it would drip out and be visible but not the same side as the muffler. I have pics of the engine but in looking through them, I dont see any that show that hose and its routing. You do want to keep it as far away from any exhaust piping as possible and secure it with cable ties so it cant flop around.
    2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)

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    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  3. #3
    Active Member MrMagicFingers's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks for the reply EvilTwin...

    I decided to reuse part of the fuel evap system for the new tank vent.

    I added a new longer piece of hose to the fuel tank vent that I swooped up along the frame of the bike. This puts the top of that hose about 5 inches or so above the opening of the fuel tank. I am thinking that there is little chance of fuel getting in that hose. This is much higher than what would have been achieved running it out toward the rear. I added a cheap little filter I had in the garage and put it onto the left over "over flow" line that was connected to the evap canister. I locked everything down with wire ties.

    Pictures shown... 1) New fuel vent hose, 2) How high and where it mounts to the frame in the engine section, 3) General layout of the new hose routing, 4) Close up of the plugged evap solenoid and the hose the new vent filter attaches to.

    Maybe this will help someone else out.

    Tim
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    Current - 2010 Spyder RTS

    1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
    2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
    3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
    ___

    Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.

    The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?

    Please check out my pics!!


  4. #4
    Active Member MrMagicFingers's Avatar
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    I will post a few pics of the catch canister installed here as well when I get it installed.

    Tim
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    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-12-2022 at 10:20 PM. Reason: piss %-/
    Current - 2010 Spyder RTS

    1) Experience is something you don't get until after you need it.
    2) A closed mouth gathers no foot.
    3) IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, WHEN WILL YOU HAVE TIME TO DO IT OVER??
    ___

    Horsepower is an illusory mathematical equation; Torque is REAL, and is the source of all good things in the world.

    The problem is not the problem. The problem is your attitude about the problem. Do you understand?

    Please check out my pics!!


  5. #5
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    I went a different route ( I have pics in an Album of what I did ) .... I didn't remove the canister..... I just swapped out where the hose comes from the GAS Tank ..... It's designed to NOW prevent any gas from getting into the cannister ..... good luck ... Mike

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