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Very Active Member
What's the recommended Belt Tension?
I have noticed that there's mention in a couple of threads about the drive belt tension being to high and some people found that lowering it gave better results.
When searching belt tension, belt alignment and drive belts they all list a whole lot of threads but mostly none covered this exactly or either I couldn't find it.
So what's the recommended tension? I see 190 mentioned a lot as standard but what works best? I'm trying to get rid of some belt whine/noise on my 2020 RT-L
Thanks
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It should be in your owners manual. Both of my RTs (2018 and current 2021) have had a high speed vibration, both around 70+mph. I had the belt tension lowered on both. It didn't do anything on the 2018 so I added a harmonic vibration dampening device (aka belt tensioner). It solved the problem. When I lowered the tension on the 2021, all it did was move the vibration to a different speed. I added a belt tensioner to this one, too, which again solved the problem.
Others haven't had any vibration and others have been able to completely eliminate the vibration simply by lowering the belt tension.
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Very Active Member
I did install the lamonster belt tensioner today and it made little to no difference that I could tell. That's why I thought I would lower the belt tension.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by K80Shooter
I did install the lamonster belt tensioner today and it made little to no difference that I could tell. That's why I thought I would lower the belt tension.
What is you current belt tension? Hard to say where you should go until you know where you are.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BajaRon
What is you current belt tension? Hard to say where you should go until you know where you are.
Using this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) it is at 190, thought I might back it off to 180 and try that.
I took this reading after the dealer checked the tension per my request.
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Active Member
I feel like I'm setting myself up like a B-17 over Schweinfurt on Black Thursday, but I don't get good results with a KriKit. In all likely hood it's my technique, but the Krikit seems to be insensitive to change, and the readout is rather coarse.
I use a Snark musical instrument tuner to measure the belt (pluck) frequency. I validated the Snark accuracy with more sophisticated instruments and used the Gates formula for my belt. I tried my cell phone with the Gates and other apps, but the cell phone microphone can't sense the low frequencies required. These are the tensions I ended up with:
122# in the air at the loose spot
173# in the air at the tight spot
150# on the ground at the loose spot
193# on the ground at the tight spot
for an average tension of ~160#
With this setting there is a slight vibration at 70mph, and it was better at 180# average. (next time)
Also, measuring the tension at three wheel positions is critical, since there is considerable run-out in the rear sprocket.
Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
Spyder Tryke Pylot
2020 RT , Lamonster extender Petrol
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ButterSmooth
I feel like I'm setting myself up like a B-17 over Schweinfurt on Black Thursday, but I don't get good results with a KriKit. In all likely hood it's my technique, but the Krikit seems to be insensitive to change, and the readout is rather coarse.
I use a Snark musical instrument tuner to measure the belt (pluck) frequency. I validated the Snark accuracy with more sophisticated instruments and used the Gates formula for my belt. I tried my cell phone with the Gates and other apps, but the cell phone microphone can't sense the low frequencies required. These are the tensions I ended up with:
122# in the air at the loose spot
173# in the air at the tight spot
150# on the ground at the loose spot
193# on the ground at the tight spot
for an average tension of ~160#
With this setting there is a slight vibration at 70mph, and it was better at 180# average. (next time)
Also, measuring the tension at three wheel positions is critical, since there is considerable run-out in the rear sprocket.
Using a KritKit or any other tool that can be used - you shouldn't be using a loose or tight spot .... the KritKit has to beused in the manner that tool is designed for ie. the middle of the belt any other spot is going to give a False reading .... I only check it with the wheel ON_THE_GROUND.... I use 160lbs. measured in the middle of the belt...... I have no vibes that I can feel ..... good luck .... Mike
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Using a KritKit or any other tool that can be used - you shouldn't be using a loose or tight spot .... the KritKit has to beused in the manner that tool is designed for ie. the middle of the belt any other spot is going to give a False reading .... I only check it with the wheel ON_THE_GROUND.... I use 160lbs. measured in the middle of the belt...... I have no vibes that I can feel ..... good luck .... Mike
I did check it with the wheel on the ground and also in the center of the belt, honestly I checked it in several places before I settled on the 190 reading from the middle of the belt. I have the side plastic off right now so now's the time I want to try this. I'll try the 160lbs 1st.
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I added LaM idler kit and it so far has completely taken care of the issue. However I am under the impression that this is sort of a can of worms for some or most that never goes away. Seems to go along with owning a Spyder
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Very Active Member
I think that I must have one that wont go away. I added the lamonster idler/tensioner....No help.
I lowered the tension of the belt.... No help.
I increased the tension of the belt.... No help
I have it at 160 now with the lamonster tensioner installed. (Measured it on the ground without the tensioner touching the belt) I'm going to button it back up and just ride it until someone say's the new (white) pulley helps or doesn't help. I'm also going to continue complaining to the dealer. They did tell me it would be replaced so we'll see but I doubt it.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by K80Shooter
I think that I must have one that wont go away. I added the lamonster idler/tensioner....No help.
I lowered the tension of the belt.... No help.
I increased the tension of the belt.... No help
I have it at 160 now with the lamonster tensioner installed. (Measured it on the ground without the tensioner touching the belt) I'm going to button it back up and just ride it until someone say's the new (white) pulley helps or doesn't help. I'm also going to continue complaining to the dealer. They did tell me it would be replaced so we'll see but I doubt it.
Are you sure its not a tire problem you are feeling?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by EdMat
Are you sure its not a tire problem you are feeling?
It's not what I feel, it's what I hear. There's several threads about it on here.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by K80Shooter
It's not what I feel, it's what I hear. There's several threads about it on here.
Is it the 49 ± 2mph whine? If so, that is the main thing the 'new' pulley fixes. My whine was quite bad, but it went almost completely away when I aligned my belt 3.5mm from the inner rear flange. That's right in the middle of the 2-5mm specified range. The other sound mine made was a 'Gronk' when taking off from a stop -- even worse if turning from a stop. The alignment fixed that completely. My belt has always been against the outer-front pulley flange -- no adjustment ever changed that.
I'll probably change to the new pulley in the near future. If I need to take it off for maintenance, there's no point in putting the 'old' one back on.
Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
Spyder Tryke Pylot
2020 RT , Lamonster extender Petrol
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ButterSmooth
Is it the 49 ± 2mph whine? If so, that is the main thing the 'new' pulley fixes. My whine was quite bad, but it went almost completely away when I aligned my belt 3.5mm from the inner rear flange. That's right in the middle of the 2-5mm specified range. The other sound mine made was a 'Gronk' when taking off from a stop -- even worse if turning from a stop. The alignment fixed that completely. My belt has always been against the outer-front pulley flange -- no adjustment ever changed that.
I'll probably change to the new pulley in the near future. If I need to take it off for maintenance, there's no point in putting the 'old' one back on.
That's it from about 46 to 52 or so it's pretty loud but any other speed it's livable, honestly I can live with it if I had to. I have moved the belt in and out but that doesn't help either. When I got it the belt was on the inside flange of both pully's, I moved it over but it went against the outside front pully then. I've moved it back a little and the belt is maybe a 1/8" from the inside of the rear pully and I can get a business card between the outer flange of the front pully. In my opinion the front pully should have been a little wider.
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Very Active Member
Most people make it sound very easy to set the belt tension. I guess I am missing something. Please correct me, but you have to lossen the axle nuts-correct? Aren't they torqued at over 200 ft lbs?
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Bangorbob
Most people make it sound very easy to set the belt tension. I guess I am missing something. Please correct me, but you have to lossen the axle nuts-correct? Aren't they torqued at over 200 ft lbs?
166'#. I don't know how easy it is for other folks, but it's a fiddly adjustment for me. The single biggest problem for me is that the belt moves toward the inner rear flange when the axle torque is increased from 90'# to 166'#. The adjusters are under tension and never loosen and everything is locked in position at 90'#. But when the final torque is applied the belt moves inboard about 1/4". The last time I did it, at 90'# it ran at the outer edge of the sprocket, then moved in when torqued to mid-spec, 3.5mm. Repeated tightening to 166'# can be exhausting for an old man.
I also noted in the parts diagram that the axle nut is a one use item. You'd need a pile of them if it had to be replaced for each tightening.
Head in the game, eyes down the road... 2020RT
Spyder Tryke Pylot
2020 RT , Lamonster extender Petrol
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ButterSmooth
166'#. I don't know how easy it is for other folks, but it's a fiddly adjustment for me. The single biggest problem for me is that the belt moves toward the inner rear flange when the axle torque is increased from 90'# to 166'#. The adjusters are under tension and never loosen and everything is locked in position at 90'#. But when the final torque is applied the belt moves inboard about 1/4". The last time I did it, at 90'# it ran at the outer edge of the sprocket, then moved in when torqued to mid-spec, 3.5mm. Repeated tightening to 166'# can be exhausting for an old man.
I also noted in the parts diagram that the axle nut is a one use item. You'd need a pile of them if it had to be replaced for each tightening.
It can be a very tedious process, but after adjusting the tension, try lowering the bike to the floor before you tighten the axle nut to final torque. This will generally prevent the shift you are getting by allowing the geometry of the swingarm and the weight of the bike to keep both tensioners loaded. If you apply final torque with the wheel in the air, you are putting in enough twist to move one side slightly off the tensioner which is why you then see the belt move. If you got the tension set right, you're done. If you still need to adjust it, then it's back up & down on the jack some more!
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Originally Posted by Jetfixer
It can be a very tedious process, but after adjusting the tension, try lowering the bike to the floor before you tighten the axle nut to final torque. This will generally prevent the shift you are getting by allowing the geometry of the swingarm and the weight of the bike to keep both tensioners loaded. If you apply final torque with the wheel in the air, you are putting in enough twist to move one side slightly off the tensioner which is why you then see the belt move. If you got the tension set right, you're done. If you still need to adjust it, then it's back up & down on the jack some more!
Good advice. And it helps if when do the final torque, torque each side against their adjusters. IE; one wrench up and one wrench down in the proper direction. I think 90#'s is plenty of torque for the final adjustment. Ask Joe on Squared Away, he's done a freight car load of belt adjustments.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ButterSmooth
166'#. I don't know how easy it is for other folks, but it's a fiddly adjustment for me. The single biggest problem for me is that the belt moves toward the inner rear flange when the axle torque is increased from 90'# to 166'#. The adjusters are under tension and never loosen and everything is locked in position at 90'#. But when the final torque is applied the belt moves inboard about 1/4". The last time I did it, at 90'# it ran at the outer edge of the sprocket, then moved in when torqued to mid-spec, 3.5mm. Repeated tightening to 166'# can be exhausting for an old man.
I also noted in the parts diagram that the axle nut is a one use item. You'd need a pile of them if it had to be replaced for each tightening.
Those " so-called " ONE USE nuts are called that because of ..... LAWYERS .... I have been re-using, " one-use " nuts for Decades and never had a problem. Have you noticed in your Owners manual, that BRP says you should bring your Spyder IMMEDIATELY to your nearest Dealer if you have any problems ...... do you ????? ................... good luck ... Mike
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Originally Posted by Bangorbob
Most people make it sound very easy to set the belt tension. I guess I am missing something. Please correct me, but you have to lossen the axle nuts-correct? Aren't they torqued at over 200 ft lbs?
Saw this whilst poking about in the forum....I guess 166 is the 'new' number. But regardless, I've watched a video where the guy uses an open end/box wrench cut in half to loosen the nut! No way are you going to undo 166 ft # of torque with half a wrench! I happen to own a 1/2 drive torque wrench that goes to 200 # (I bought it for the axe nuts on a Ryker) and it works well since it is about 28" long.
2020 F3L; gone but not forgotten are all the good miles!
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166 lb.ft. I believe. Not too big of a deal, but you do need a long breaker bar to loosen, and a 200+ lb.ft. torque wrench to retighten them.
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Somehow I doubt that everyone replaces them every time.
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The axle bolt/nut is supposed to be torqued to 160 lb.ft.
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Very Active Member
In 2015 BRP issued a tech bulletin, TST61Y014S05, that deals with belt tension and vibration. See also this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_k8bHF0PJo. Essentially what it says is set the belt tension somewhere between min and max that results in the least amount of vibration at a speed the owner can live with.
As far as the ordeal of getting the axle to not move while torquing read about my travails and offered suggestions here: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...nsion+tracking.
To get the torque necessary don't spend money on a 3/4" torque wrench. Get a torque multiplier wrench and use your 1/2" drive torque wrench. This is what I have and used, or one like it. https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Torque-...5155005&sr=8-5
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
I just looked at the description on Amazon for the wrench. It says the wrench needs to be used 90° to the torque wrench. That is true if you plan to read the required directly on the wrench. If you attach the wrench in line with the torque wrench then the real torque on the nut will be torque wrench reading divided by torque wrench length and then multiplied by total length of the two wrenches.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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