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  1. #1
    Member fzflyer's Avatar
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    Default Radio reception good when engine off - Engine running, not so much! Any ideas?

    New owner trying to diagnose radio reception while engine is running. Signal is strong when engine is not running, but with engine running it goes to static. Seems like some electrical interference. Maybe a bad ground due to the excessive lock tight that I’m hearing about???


    2020 F3-Limited Dark
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  2. #2
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    All of the above, and then some! When you give it some throttle will the static get worse? Maybe a stray spark off a plug wire! It do it all the time, dry days and wet?
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  3. #3
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    interference from led fog lights

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Ex-Rocket's Avatar
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    I had LED headlight and fog lights installed on my 2017 F3 Limited by Spyderpops. My radio was just fine when the fog lights were turned off but as soon as I turned the fog lights on, I had static. Called Spyderpops and hadn't heard of that problem but after about a week I received a package in the mail with a cure and at NO CHARGE. I installed the parts that were shipped to me and that cured the problem with static on the radio when fog lights were turned on. I believe if memory serves me right the fix was from Lamonster Garage.



    2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl

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  5. #5
    Very Active Member Mazo EMS2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy View Post
    interference from led fog lights
    YUP, some LED's play havoc with radio signal
    2021 RT Limited

    2016 RTS , Pearl White

  6. #6
    Member fzflyer's Avatar
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    I doesn’t get worse when I throttle up either in neutral or in gear. It’s also not weather independent.


    2020 F3-Limited Dark
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  7. #7
    Member fzflyer's Avatar
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    Hmmm, interesting observation on the possible LED interference. I’m gonna have to do some digging into this one. This will also allow me to get to know the bike a little , as I bought it already modded.


    2020 F3-Limited Dark
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  8. #8
    Very Active Member DGoebel's Avatar
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    fzflyer, Plus as you check though all these suggestions, you're likely to be removing and resetting some grounds, and insuring that everything is tightened properly. If your LED's were from Lamonster, you might want to check with him about the fix that Ex-Rocket mentioned.
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DGoebel View Post
    fzflyer, Plus as you check though all these suggestions, you're likely to be removing and resetting some grounds, and insuring that everything is tightened properly. If your LED's were from Lamonster, you might want to check with him about the fix that Ex-Rocket mentioned.
    Not ALL LED headlights are well made .... and can & will cause radio interference ..... Price doesn't seem to be the equalizer either I've spent much and got little .... and spent little and got much ..... JMHO .... Mike

  10. #10
    Very Active Member canamjhb's Avatar
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    If you find all the ground wires are properly connected and not all gooped up, then you may need to install a Ground Loop Isolator for your radio. That isolator prevents grounds from other things on your bike from getting to and interfering with your radio signal. Think of it as a "one-way" device. Grounding goes out but nothing flows back in. Good luck..... Jim
    2005 Windveil Blue Premium Mustang Convertible
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  11. #11
    Member fzflyer's Avatar
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    Arrow Update and next steps

    As I dig into this and try to understand and isolate the issue, I went back and reviewed what lights are illuminated during the Ignition “on” mode. This is when radio reception is good. I was slightly surprised to find that the only lights that did not illuminate in this mode were the LED headlights and also the LED daytime running lights/fog lights. I could even illuminate the TricLED Chaser RGB LED Adjustable Night Rider Light (manufacturer, TricLED) via dedicated remote. Radio reception remained good with the Chaser Night Rider Light on. From this, I assume I can rule out Chaser Night Rider Light, but cannot rule out the headlights or DRL/fog lights as contributing factors.

    This leads to another, secondary, question. How does one put ignition in “accessory” mode? Where only radio and instrument panel is powered and all remaining lights are off? I have tried “hold the Mode button after turning ignition off” suggestion, however no luck with this machine. I will return to this concern after original issue is resolved .

    A few notes: I found original boxes from previous owner. Both H4-T2 Series LED Headlights (P/N: SM6313, manufacturer assumed TricLED, however I cannot find this P/N on SlingMod website. New T2 Series Headlights P/N: SM6454…hmmm ) and Arc LED DRL/Fog lights (P/N: SM3224, manufacturer TricLED) we’re purchased from SlingMods. I might need to contact SM for clarity…

    Next steps:
    Isolate and remove headlights and DRL/fog lights individually/pair from system and see if that improves radio reception with engine running.
    Investigate rear top case removal via LinQ and check ground wires are properly attached and with good conduction.
    Investigate Ground Loop Isolator as per canamjhb suggestion.

    Other than that, this is a Fun machine . 350 miles so far and still improving my riding habits. Especially during the turning and twisting. Gotta forget some of my 2-wheel habits…


    2020 F3-Limited Dark
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  12. #12
    Very Active Member Ex-Rocket's Avatar
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    Your fog lights should have a push button switch mounted where you can turn them on or off. I know on my 2017 F3 Limited I do. Thats how I found out that the fog lights were causing the static on the radio by turning them on & off. When I turned the fog lights on the static was there.



    2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl

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  13. #13
    Member fzflyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ex-Rocket View Post
    Your fog lights should have a push button switch mounted where you can turn them on or off. I know on my 2017 F3 Limited I do. Thats how I found out that the fog lights were causing the static on the radio by turning them on & off. When I turned the fog lights on the static was there.
    Yes, they do. I don’t notice any additional static when they are switched on.

    I’m currently in the process of learning how to remove the body panels so I can physically unhook headlights and DRL/fog lights to isolate and diagnose.


    2020 F3-Limited Dark
    OEM Raised Passenger Armrests
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    LED Headlights & Foglights
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  14. #14
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    .

    Now to add something else to this-------

    Yesterday after fueling up, I got a DESS fault and the wouldn't start. Yes, I had this problem years ago and changed the DESS module. BUT, I had my fogs and additional driving lights on. Driving lights are 10watt LEDs ( each, and HIGH mounted) but when I shut both off and pulled the key for a few seconds, the started right up and no other faults for the day.

    So, could these LED's cause interference with the DESS signal?????

    Lew L
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    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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  15. #15
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lew L View Post
    .

    Now to add something else to this-------

    Yesterday after fueling up, I got a DESS fault and the wouldn't start. Yes, I had this problem years ago and changed the DESS module. BUT, I had my fogs and additional driving lights on. Driving lights are 10watt LEDs ( each, and HIGH mounted) but when I shut both off and pulled the key for a few seconds, the started right up and no other faults for the day.

    So, could these LED's cause interference with the DESS signal?????

    Lew L
    Yes. They can. I had the same problem with a cheap headlight upgrade kit I installed. I'm not saying your setup is cheap. Only that the power conversion module can emit RF/EMF that will drive the ECU crazy. If the ECU cannot interpret the signals it is receiving due to interference. It may just refuse to start the vehicle.

    In my case. I purchased a better kit and my problems went away.
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  16. #16
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fzflyer View Post
    I’m currently in the process of learning how to remove the body panels so I can physically unhook headlights and DRL/fog lights to isolate and diagnose.
    No need to do that. Just pull out the headlight relay in the fuse box.

    Check any USB power adapters you may have. Just like LEDs, some of them can cause static in the radio.

    If you haven't gotten one yet, you would be well advised to buy a service manual. They're about $30 from www.canammanuals.com in PDF format. There are several sites all connected to this one and selling the same manuals.

    There are a few items on the Spyder, such as the headlights, that are served by a load shedding relay. It activates only when the engine is running, and for about 20 seconds after turning off the ignition.

    2014 Copper RTS

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    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  17. #17
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lew L View Post
    .

    Now to add something else to this-------

    Yesterday after fueling up, I got a DESS fault and the wouldn't start. Yes, I had this problem years ago and changed the DESS module. BUT, I had my fogs and additional driving lights on. Driving lights are 10watt LEDs ( each, and HIGH mounted) but when I shut both off and pulled the key for a few seconds, the started right up and no other faults for the day.

    So, could these LED's cause interference with the DESS signal?????

    Lew L


    BajaRon's answer:

    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Yes. They can. I had the same problem with a cheap headlight upgrade kit I installed. I'm not saying your setup is cheap. Only that the power conversion module can emit RF/EMF that will drive the ECU crazy. If the ECU cannot interpret the signals it is receiving due to interference. It may just refuse to start the vehicle.

    In my case. I purchased a better kit and my problems went away.
    My solution:

    First try is to keep the driving light switch off while starting the
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 06-07-2022 at 10:10 AM. Reason: Fixed quote display
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

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  18. #18
    Member fzflyer's Avatar
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    Default DRL/fog lights or headlamps not a contributing factor

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    No need to do that. Just pull out the headlight relay in the fuse box.

    Check any USB power adapters you may have. Just like LEDs, some of them can cause static in the radio.

    If you haven't gotten one yet, you would be well advised to buy a service manual. They're about $30 from www.canammanuals.com in PDF format. There are several sites all connected to this one and selling the same manuals.

    There are a few items on the Spyder, such as the headlights, that are served by a load shedding relay. It activates only when the engine is running, and for about 20 seconds after turning off the ignition.
    Yes, a good service manual is in the “to get” queue. It probably would have saved me a few hours yesterday. However, I did get to know the bike much better and how it’s assembled, by removing all the body panels needed to get down, and behind, to the DRL/fog lights and also headlights.

    The results were not what I expected however. It appears that neither the DRL/fog lights or the headlights are contributing to the static with engine running issue.

    Next, I was able to rotate the rear top case out of position to investigate how that wiring is configured. I found the ribbon ground underneath. Cleaned and add external tooth washers to help it “bite”. But still no improvement. I still need to remove the rear top case liner and understand how antenna is attached and wired to rear top case behind the liner.

    Maybe, I am expecting too much from the radio on this bike?? Makes me question BRP/Can-am if they, along with their suppliers, cannot put together an audio system that reaches essentially 10 miles from broadcasting station. Hmmm…
    Last edited by fzflyer; 06-07-2022 at 09:59 PM.


    2020 F3-Limited Dark
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    OEM Detachable Driver Backrest
    LED Headlights & Foglights
    Lamonster Belt Tensioner
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    TricLED Chaser RGB LED Adjustable Night Rider Light

  19. #19
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fzflyer View Post
    Maybe, I am expecting too much from the radio on this bike?? Makes me question BRP/Can-am if they, along with their suppliers, cannot put together an audio system that reaches essentially 10 miles from broadcasting station. Hmmm…
    Broadcasting station, or transmission tower? Big difference! The radio on my 2014 can get iffy if more that about 35 to 50 miles from a tower.

    I don't know how good Harley radios are, but the Can Am radios are built by the same company that builds for Harley and some other motorcycles, but not Honda.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

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