My RT 2010 SE5 drive belt is kaput - any links to replace it?
Hi all", went for a ride today and felt this clunk every time the wheels did x 1 revolution. Rode it home real slow and looked at the drive belt, noticed that it has a big lump on it on the inside. To put it simply, it is worn out now. Anyone know a link to youtube on how to change it because I will be doing it myself?
Regards RT Peter
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-27-2022 at 09:24 PM.
Reason: Removed Prefix - this is a 'How do I?' not a 'How to:' DIY explanation....
Sorry no luck on replacement vids, plenty on belt alignment & rear tire replacement. Good idea go ahead & find a Krikit tool to measure belt tension when getting new one on. Maybe add belt tensioner if ever had vibration issues. Also suggest a laser alignment afterwards.
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Where are you Peter?? There's quite a few OzSpyderRyders around the place now; surely there's someone relatively nearby who could help??
There's a good BRP Service bloke in Naracoorte who I can put you in touch with; another in Lonsdale; Stu (who's a member here) runs a very good Spyder Service business in Unley; I'm in the Adelaide Hills near Mt Barker & have Spyder Ryding contacts all over the country (courtesy of 5 Spyder Musters! ); and one of the Modbury OzSpyderRyders is hosting a Shed Day on Sunday 5th... If you're anywhere near it'd be a great opportunity for everyone to see how it's done, and I'm sure we could find some way of getting it there/done.... Or maybe someone could come to you?? If you can take the rear wheel off, there's not really a heap more effort involved, less stuff to remove, & only a few things to check while you're in there!
Drop me a PM with your phone number & I'll give you a call to discuss.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-28-2022 at 01:41 AM.
If you raise rear you can work it off the pulleys. Pull the belt towards you and rotate the tyre. 3 or 4 turns and it works it way off.
Chock the front tyres and have in in neutral. No need to remove the rear wheel. Get a gauge and set up the tension for the new belt.
If you raise rear you can work it off the pulleys. Pull the belt towards you and rotate the tyre 3 or 4 turns and it works it way off. No need to remove the rear wheel. Get a gauge and set up the tension for the new belt. Found a video on removing the belt. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTn6cR6q1Js
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Hi all", I got it organized now the job to do is in the workshop Manual. Thanks to all who replied. It will give me something to do
Regards Peter
Peter if you haven't already read about " Remove the rear shock bolt " after jacking up the Spyder, then this is how you will prevent having to TOUCH the belt adjusters. After changing your belt / tire etc., if you REMOVED that bolt first, you can just re-assemble and the belt will be EXACTLY where it was before you did any work ..... good luck .... Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 05-29-2022 at 10:31 AM.
Reason: wil;l = will ;-)
I am thinking that when he changes the belt out to a new on there will be some belt adjusting to do, it should be tight once he installs a new one!! I am sure the old belts been tightened up, which would make a new one tighter than a bow string!
Thanks all who posted here and this is a good website forum to find out how to do things on the Spyders. I use a Krikit tool when I put the new belt on to make sure the tension is at 160lbs, and I may have to do the belt alignment too,
I used 6 point sockets on the axle and popped a bit of silicone on the caps so they will stay in place and less likely to fall off. Insurance I guess as I had to get a replacement for my front inner on my new to me F3.
Hi all", and thanks for the info I will remove the rear shock bolt Mike so that may make it easier. I found X two teeth on the Spyder coming off a bit like when we were kids and we would get a loose tooth and shake it side to side and then pull it out. I believe this was just wear and tear and not something getting underneath the belt. I took picture of a tooth of belt that I took off, and I just pulled it off with pliers. The damage to the belt was or did happen over a period of time because I can see the wear marks on the bottom of the tooth
Thanks all who posted here and this is a good website forum to find out how to do things on the Spyders. I use a Krikit tool when I put the new belt on to make sure the tension is at 160lbs, and I may have to do the belt alignment too,
Regards Peter
Many here have decided that is the sweet spot ..... However this measurement is used if the tire " IS ON THE GROUND ", if the tire is OFF the ground the measurement is different. Sorry but I don't remember how much that is ..... Mike
Hi all", and thanks for the info I will remove the rear shock bolt Mike so that may make it easier. I found X two teeth on the Spyder coming off a bit like when we were kids and we would get a loose tooth and shake it side to side and then pull it out. I believe this was just wear and tear and not something getting underneath the belt. I took picture of a tooth of belt that I took off, and I just pulled it off with pliers. The damage to the belt was or did happen over a period of time because I can see the wear marks on the bottom of the tooth
I can't see how that could occur if the belt is tensioned correctly ( ie. 160 lbs tire on ground ) and something didn't get on the belt. Qutie a few folks have reported mileages way over 100,000 mi. and no Wear or Damage ..... good luck .... Mike
Hi again", well maybe something did get under the belt Mike. I don't know but it's done for whatever reason. Now i just got to fit the new belt and I ordered a krikit tool to measure the tension. I will check the tension before I take the belt off and let you guys know what the tension was
However this measurement is used if the tire " IS ON THE GROUND ", if the tire is OFF the ground the measurement is different. Mike
Hi All. Just gotta add my 2 cents worth here.
The way I see it is if the rear of the bike is supported in such a way that the rear suspension is carrying the load, i.e. supported under the shock bolt or the swingarm, the tire can/will be off the ground but the swing arm will have the same angle, w.r.t the frame, resulting in the same belt tension as when the tire is supporting the load, i.e. On the ground.
The way I see it is if the rear of the bike is supported in such a way that the rear suspension is carrying the load, i.e. supported under the shock bolt or the swingarm, the tire can/will be off the ground but the swing arm will have the same angle, w.r.t the frame, resulting in the same belt tension as when the tire is supporting the load, i.e. On the ground.
Thanks for bearing with me. "bearing"
If I understand you to mean " there is No difference in belt tension on the ground or off the ground " I dis-agree, I and others have measured it on & off and the tension is different . .... try it yourself .... Mike
The way I see it is if the rear of the bike is supported in such a way that the rear suspension is carrying the load, i.e. supported under the shock bolt or the swingarm, the tire can/will be off the ground but the swing arm will have the same angle, w.r.t the frame, resulting in the same belt tension as when the tire is supporting the load, i.e. On the ground.
Thanks for bearing with me. "bearing"
Eckhard - You're right that the swing arm will have the same angle wrt the frame if you jack the machine up by the lower shock bolt. Most don’t do that, rather jack it up by the main framework up forward. That’s the BRP guidance. That allows the swing arm to raise and lower. What changes then, is the angle between the swing arm and the front pulley. I guess you could call it an angle. Maybe more accurately, what changes is the straight line distance between the front pulley and the rear pulley center lines. The swing arm pivots aft of the front pulley centerline. So, as the machine is raised and the swing arm pivots downward, it lossens the belt. If the swing arm moves upward the belt gets tighter. BRP belt tension procedure specifies wheel elevated off the ground and thus every tech does it the same way....hopefully.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 06-05-2022 at 10:53 AM.
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Hi all", I replaced my drivebelt on my RT SE5 Spyder. The job wasn't to hard. The only pain in the arse job was the 2 bolts at the rear of the belt gaurd. They were hard to get to the nut on the inside so I put my mobile phone on the ground and set it to camera mode so I could see them to put my small socket wrench on the nuts while I tightened up the bolts on the outside. It was a fiddly job to get the belt tension set, but in the end I got it worked out then set the tension on the belt with my Krikit tool. I took it out for a test ride observed the alignment of the belt all good yet another job done on the Spyder,
My RT 2010 SE5 drive belt is kaput - any links to replace it?
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); and one of the Modbury OzSpyderRyders is hosting a Shed Day on Sunday 5th... If you're anywhere near it'd be a great opportunity for everyone to see how it's done, and I'm sure we could find some way of getting it there/done.... Or maybe someone could come to you?? If you can take the rear wheel off, there's not really a heap more effort involved, less stuff to remove, & only a few things to check while you're in there! 
Originally Posted by Isopedella
