Mobil's product sheet doc has this info for their 4T Racing motorcycle oil:
My Mods:
Elka Stage 5 rear shock with spring preload adjust
Monster Stage 2 ECU
Pedal Commander
RLS cat delete
Baja Ron sway bar
Baker Air Wings upper and lower
Viking saddle bags
Third pegs
Vredestein tires front and rear
Mad Stad windshield
X-creen windshield deflector
Front and rear drive cam
Garmin Zumo XT
Heated gear wiring
Lamonster LED headlights
Lamonster LED foglights
Lamonster frame mount cupholder
BRP heated handgrips
Lamonster drivers backrest
BRP passenger backrest
Lidlock handlebar end helmet locks
Barkbusters Storm handguards
Have been using Rotella T4 conventional oil in 7 Motorcycles over the last 12+ years. Have already bought 2 gallons of T6 15w40 for use on the first oil change on the F3-S. Not saying it’s the best there is out there. Just saying that it has the correct specs, is (usually) readily available, and has never failed me in the years I have used it.
Rotella T6 5w40 does have a JASO clutch slip test rating of MA/MA2. But T6 15W40 does not have a JASO clutch slip rating in the specs. That I could find. I personally would not use the 15W40 without a MA2 rating.
PS: T6 0W40 does not have a JASO rating as well.
Last edited by billybovine; 05-27-2022 at 07:35 PM.
JASO MA2 is for cat equipped machines; JASO MA is for shared sump machines ..
JASO MA – This was the standard for single unit engines where the wet clutch, gearbox and engine used the same oil. JASO-MA oils don’t contain friction modifiers.
JASO MB – This lower standard was for bikes that use separate oils for the engine, clutch and gearbox (e.g Harley Davidson’s and BMW’s).
Then in 2006 JASO introduced…..
JASO-MA2 – This specification was introduced in 2006 for modern motorcycle engines. As well as being a higher standard of oil the JASO-MA2 approval means the oil is suitable for use in bikes with catalytic converts in the exhaust system.
2022 RT Sea To Sky
--------------------------------
There is a article in this months Wing World on page 23 in the WORKBENCH section that cautions GW riders with the DCT bikes to avoid this oil due to clutch damage...I know this is a Spyder site...I'm not able to take a picture of the article and post...Maybe someone else can??? FYI ONLY...larryd
Pic of back label. Shows the 15w40 T6 is both MA and MA2 rated.
Well isn't that interesting. The online specs from shell's site does not list the 15W40 as JASO MA/M2. Several years ago I checked the jugs in the store. The 5W40 had the motorcycle symbol on the front label and the JASO MA/M2 on the back. The other 2 viscosities did not. Well now I have to check the jugs again in the Canadian stores.
Well isn't that interesting. The online specs from shell's site does not list the 15W40 as JASO MA/M2. Several years ago I checked the jugs in the store. The 5W40 had the motorcycle symbol on the front label and the JASO MA/M2 on the back. The other 2 viscosities did not. Well now I have to check the jugs again in the Canadian stores.
I did. That's what I copied/pasted. You have to click on the .pdf link. Read the yellow specification box. JASO DH-2, MA/MA2
I understand, I just linked straight to the pdf just in case some people did not see it in the link that you posted.
I didn't mean to imply that what you posted was wrong or anything.
Last edited by K80Shooter; 05-28-2022 at 05:57 PM.
But .. BRP uses 5w40. Why are you using a weight rating not recommended by Can-Am? Devils advocate here..
The number before the W is the winter weight, how the oil flows at cold temperatures, for instance if you are starting up from very cold in winter. Once your engine is up to operating temperature the oil will be flowing at the heavier 40 weight specification. I never start mine from cold below 5C let alone the -20C or so when the 5W or 10W makes a difference by 5W being slightly thinner. How the oil flow varies between the 5W and 10W specifications at 5C or above would probably be difficult to measure. For motorcycles which virtually never start below freezing, the winter weight is not that important. I think, 5W, 10W or even 15W would be just fine. I suspect they specify 5W because their snow mobiles and ATV's might start at really cold temperatures and they want to use the same oil in all of their vehicles for 1 part number, or people really ride their trikes in the snow in Canada?
Can Am Syder RT Limited (2021)
Triumph Bonneville T120 (2018)
Some folks seem to have a hard time finding it. Picked up a 2 1/2 gallon jug of 15W40 at local wallyworld this afternoon, $56, they had 4 more on the shelf.
The number before the W is the winter weight, how the oil flows at cold temperatures, for instance if you are starting up from very cold in winter. Once your engine is up to operating temperature the oil will be flowing at the heavier 40 weight specification. I never start mine from cold below 5C let alone the -20C or so when the 5W or 10W makes a difference by 5W being slightly thinner. How the oil flow varies between the 5W and 10W specifications at 5C or above would probably be difficult to measure. For motorcycles which virtually never start below freezing, the winter weight is not that important. I think, 5W, 10W or even 15W would be just fine. I suspect they specify 5W because their snow mobiles and ATV's might start at really cold temperatures and they want to use the same oil in all of their vehicles for 1 part number, or people really ride their trikes in the snow in Canada?
BRP recommends 5W for two reasons .... #1.- it's what they sell .... and #2.- their oil is not FULL Synthetic ..... JMHO .... Mike
BRP recommends 5W for two reasons .... #1.- it's what they sell .... and #2.- their oil is not FULL Synthetic ..... JMHO .... Mike
The synthetic blend won't affect the difference between 5W and 10W ratings though, but it is curious that BRP only specifies a synthetic blend in 5W40 especially with a 9,300 mile change interval. Like you say it is NOT fully synthetic (but nearly priced like one). A fully synthetic oil will probably better retain its quoted flow ratings over the life of the oil plus have numerous other benefits.
Outside of warranty and dealer services I will probably switch to a fully synthetic oil of the correct specification for wet clutches. I won't care about the 5W or 10W winter rating though. Until that time I'll just let the dealer use XPS and change it every 5,000 instead of 10,000 miles.
One point I didn't make clear in the original reply is that I implied that the oil behaved as a thicker 40 weight when it got hot, of course it doesn't, it flows quicker than when cold, but it provides the protection of a straight 40 weight oil at its operating temperature.
Last edited by mecsw500; 05-31-2022 at 10:42 AM.
Reason: added info
Can Am Syder RT Limited (2021)
Triumph Bonneville T120 (2018)
And, here is some more food for thought. The American Petroleum Institute (API) does not have any industry standards on the amount of synthetic content in synthetic blend/partial synthetic labeled oils. NO manufacture will admit to what the actual synthetic content is, citing " proprietary information". 5%, 10%, ?? You can bet it is likely pretty low...
2022 RT Sea To Sky
--------------------------------
Always read these oil threads. When I bought my 2014 Soyder RTL last year, went through the owner's and service manuals to determine what oil I should use. Owner's manual indicates a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or a synthetic oil meeting API service SL, SJ, SH, SG or higher classification. There is a notice that indicates : "Do not add any oil additives to the recommended oil. This may lead to gearbox and clutch malfunctions." No mention of the JASO standard.
Having an older '85 Honda Gold Wing, designed for use before the JASO standard that came out in 1999, I use what Honda specified which is similar to what is in the Spyder owner's manual. A good, quality high detergent oil with no friction modifiers.
I look primarily for the API donut with the lower half left blank. This indicates there are no friction modifiers in the oil. The oil formulations I use are a European formulation and most, if not all, have an API donut with the lower half blank. If there is no API donut, then look for the JASO standard.
Shell Rotella generally has this style of API donut attached - the upper half details the API standard. The pic attached is to illustrate the lower half being blank. Some oil labels are now omiting the API donut for whatever reason. For myself, it's the API donut first then the JASO standard.
Only motorcycle I own that mentions the JASO standard is the Himalayan.
The oil I use is attached. The API donut on the label has the lower half left blank, no friction modifiers in this oil.
Lots of different choices out there depending on what you want.
Just my take on the JASO standard.
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
WHY NOT??? IT's JASO MA2 rated. Good for MCs with wet clutches and cats. Good for a 9K run too, according to my analyst's reports. That's due to the heavier additive package that Diesels require for engine longevity. That benefits gas engines too.
i knew that bike looked familiar! Servi-Cycle! Barber Museum is the boss!
2012 RT A&C bought new 42312 sold July 2018 56k miles currently driving a 2014 RTSE6 LTD bought October 2018 w 6800 miles nicely farkled
Always read these oil threads. When I bought my 2014 Soyder RTL last year, went through the owner's and service manuals to determine what oil I should use. Owner's manual indicates a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or a synthetic oil meeting API service SL, SJ, SH, SG or higher classification. There is a notice that indicates : "Do not add any oil additives to the recommended oil. This may lead to gearbox and clutch malfunctions." No mention of the JASO standard.
Having an older '85 Honda Gold Wing, designed for use before the JASO standard that came out in 1999, I use what Honda specified which is similar to what is in the Spyder owner's manual. A good, quality high detergent oil with no friction modifiers.
I look primarily for the API donut with the lower half left blank. This indicates there are no friction modifiers in the oil. The oil formulations I use are a European formulation and most, if not all, have an API donut with the lower half blank. If there is no API donut, then look for the JASO standard.
Shell Rotella generally has this style of API donut attached - the upper half details the API standard. The pic attached is to illustrate the lower half being blank. Some oil labels are now omiting the API donut for whatever reason. For myself, it's the API donut first then the JASO standard.
Only motorcycle I own that mentions the JASO standard is the Himalayan.
The oil I use is attached. The API donut on the label has the lower half left blank, no friction modifiers in this oil.
Lots of different choices out there depending on what you want.
Just my take on the JASO standard.
If the API donut has "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving" in the bottom, it has modifiers that will not get along well with our clutches.
I noticed people talking about using Shell Rotella T6. T6 is diesel oil, according to what people mentioned. Since when and why would you use diesel oil in place of a4 stroke motorcycle engine oil?
my thoughts exactly , I was a Tractor / Trailer Mechanic for about 20 years , thats the only Oil we ever used , not that its Bad or anything , but.....just seems strange to me too. J.M.O.
I use it because it is a good oil, and it is cheap. It has a JASO ma2 rating and seems to hold up for at least the oil change interval I use, 4500 miles.
Last edited by pegasus1300; 02-20-2023 at 08:37 PM.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
BRP oil is not JASO rated. Check the bottle. Just saying. They make it for use in all of their engines. Tom
Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by BCNewell
Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?
