2017 F3L DTC P2135 + Limp Home Mode - any ideas on cause?

[Madmaxgt]

Apologies if this is not posted this in the right forum.

Getting Frustrated, battling this dreaded “P2135” DTC on my wife’s F3. It comes back nearly every time we are out, seems to come on after 15 or so minutes or after we stop and start off again?
History: Nothing resolved from back in 2021. Reluctantly dropped it at the dealer in August 21, and after a 3 week wait, only to have them tell me they could not make it occur while they had it in the shop, so they did nothing??? The bike was in Limp Mode when I dropped it off? 🤬. I’m going to take it in again soon and show them it’s on when I leave it for yes another 3-4 weeks during prime riding weather. I am at their mercy, just hoping someone can point me to what might be causing it.

No Pedal Commander or aftermarket mods or lighting. 2017 F3 Limited with 4900 miles.

Thanks

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Apologies if this is not posted this in the right forum.

Getting Frustrated, battling this dreaded “P2135” DTC on my wife’s F3. It comes back nearly every time we are out, seems to come on after 15 or so minutes or after we stop and start off again?
History: Nothing resolved from back in 2021. Reluctantly dropped it at the dealer in August 21, and after a 3 week wait, only to have them tell me they could not make it occur while they had it in the shop, so they did nothing??? The bike was in Limp Mode when I dropped it off? ��. I’m going to take it in again soon and show them it’s on when I leave it for yes another 3-4 weeks during prime riding weather. I am at their mercy, just hoping someone can point me to what might be causing it.

No Pedal Commander or aftermarket mods or lighting. 2017 F3 Limited with 4900 miles.

Thanks

Every event that occurs on the Spyders / Rykers .... is in the computer FOREVER ... Period .... To be honest, things can be removed ... However, doing that generally renders the computer non-functioning ... It's trashed ..... Not all Techs are good at what they do, find another Dealer ..... jmho .... Mike annnnnnnnnnnnnnd ..............

Do you know if the Tech put it on the BUDS computer ???? ... Back in 2010 My new to me 09 GS went into LIMP Mode in NJ , because of overheating in 95+ temps ... totally freaked me out .... after it cooled down ( over-nite ) the LIMP Mode dis-appeared and didn't come back ( temp in the low 80's ) ...... good luck .... Mike

[Pirate]

I referred him to this website from Facebook. I don't have the technical knowledge since I am new to the Spyders so hoping someone here can assist and give him some pointers, or maybe a suggestion on a competent dealer near him.

[Peter Aawen]

Apologies if this is not posted this in the right forum.

.......
History: Nothing resolved from back in 2021. Reluctantly dropped it at the dealer in August 21, and after a 3 week wait, only to have them tell me they could not make it occur while they had it in the shop, so they did nothing??? The bike was in Limp Mode when I dropped it off? ��. I’m going to take it in again soon and show them it’s on when I leave it for yes another 3-4 weeks during prime riding weather. ..........
..... 2017 F3 Limited with 4900 miles.....

.......

Do you know if the Tech put it on the BUDS computer ???? .......

Madmax, since your Spyder's a 2017 F3 & you're asking a Shop Talk type question about it, then this F3 Shop Talk section of the Forum is EXACTLY the right spot for it!

That said, I'm with BlueKnight on this - if it was in Limp Mode when it went in then that's been recorded for all time on at least one of the onboard computers, so why the heck didn't they plug it into BUDS to see what the computer decided was wrong?? . Having a computer that records all this sorta stuff and a bloody expensive Diagnostics System that pretty much tells you exactly what's wrong AND offers the tech advice on where that is & how to fix it, but still deciding to ignore all that AT YOUR EXPENSE and leave you hanging with little recourse but to go back for more AT EVEN MORE OF YOUR EXPENSE is a BIIIG WARNING sign suggesting that either the tech's incompetent or it's a dodgy dealership trying to gouge you for all they can get before you wise up to them!

If there aren't any other (better; with skilled & competent techs; &/or less unscrupulous... ) dealers nearby, then maybe it's time to call the Dealer Principal to complain &/or get on to your local version of the Better Business Bureau/Business Ombudsman?!?

[bikerchris1270]

Apologies if this is not posted this in the right forum.

Getting Frustrated, battling this dreaded “P2135” DTC on my wife’s F3. It comes back nearly every time we are out, seems to come on after 15 or so minutes or after we stop and start off again?
History: Nothing resolved from back in 2021. Reluctantly dropped it at the dealer in August 21, and after a 3 week wait, only to have them tell me they could not make it occur while they had it in the shop, so they did nothing??? The bike was in Limp Mode when I dropped it off? ��. I’m going to take it in again soon and show them it’s on when I leave it for yes another 3-4 weeks during prime riding weather. I am at their mercy, just hoping someone can point me to what might be causing it.

No Pedal Commander or aftermarket mods or lighting. 2017 F3 Limited with 4900 miles.

Thanks

By chance, did the Dealership give you the definition of P2135……I couldn’t find the code listed in a 2019 or 20 shop manual? It’s a powertrain code……ECM or TCM.
A generic search shows the code as a throttle input code TAS sensor, (Throttle Actuator Sensor),possible the throttle input sensors are not corresponding, there’s two of them,one may be defective. BRP BUDS interface will display this to the trained and educated tech. Just saying……

[Madmaxgt]

I took it to the dealer in the county north of me, because the dealer in my town had no “Spyder mechanic”, and they were not even taking Spyders for maintenance? They did not specifically say that they put it on BUDS (my stupidity I guess) but did say they drove it for more than 15 minutes and it did not go into Limp Mode, and did not have any codes, so there was nothing they could do? I drove it the whole way home (25 miles) and it drove fine, and did not reappear symptoms until our next ride. I will be taking it to the dealer nearby this time, and only when I can roll up with it in Limp Mode, and show them the code on the screen.

[Madmaxgt]

By chance, did the Dealership give you the definition of P2135……I couldn’t find the code listed in a 2019 or 20 shop manual? It’s a powertrain code……ECM or TCM.
A generic search shows the code as a throttle input code TAS sensor, (Throttle Actuator Sensor),possible the throttle input sensors are not corresponding, there’s two of them,one may be defective. BRP BUDS interface will display this to the trained and educated tech. Just saying……

On the FB F3 page I had a gentleman say that P2135 was “Throttle Position Sensor”, but I have never found the code listed in any Can-Am Spyder code list or reference.

[Pirate]

On the FB F3 page I had a gentleman say that P2135 was “Throttle Position Sensor”, but I have never found the code listed in any Can-Am Spyder code list or reference.

That would be me. I found reference to it in this link: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...nd-Error-P2135
And just found it here but its listed for Can Am ATV's: https://www.can-amforum.com/threads/...ription.31491/

[Jetfixer]

Too bad you're not a little closer. I would hook it up to BUDS2 and do a quick TPS reset. I'll bet it would go away...

[Jetfixer]

Just for grins I decided to research this one a bit. This code DOES appear in BUDS2. It is set by the ECM, and the code description is: "Throttle Accelerator Sensor (TAS) synchronistic error between sensor 1 and 2 OBD-L 1 related". BUDS says the possible cause is: "Throttle Accelerator Sensors (TAS) plausibility check error". The required service action is as follows: "Make sure sensor connector is fully inserted. Measure resistance from connector: ECMB-K1 to TAS-A (expected value: <2 ohms). Measure resistance from connector: ECMB-K3 to TAS-B (expected value <2 ohms). Measure resistance from connector: ECMB-E1 to TAS-C (expected value <2 ohms). Measure resistance from connector: ECMB-J3 to TAS-D (expected value <2 ohms). Measure resistance from connector: ECMB-A3 to TAS-F (expected value <2 ohms).

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Please remember during your research and troubleshooting, that the TAS and TPS are two different sensors.

TAS = Throttle ACCELERATOR Sensor. That's the sensor in the right hand twist grip that sends your requested throttle position to the ECM. Double (2 channel) Hall effect sensor.

TPS = Throttle POSITION Sensor. That's the sensor on the throttle body that sends the actual throttle plate position to the ECM. Also a double sensor, I believe.

Per Jetfixer, this code appears to relate to the TAS. So, as you go looking for connectors or taking readings...or assisting the techs at the dealership... you'll want to be looking in the right place. Good Luck.

[Jetfixer]

Here's the description of the system:

Throttle Accelerator Sensor (TAS)

TAS Description

This vehicle is designed with an electronic throttle accelerator sensor (TAS) that is used to determine
the driver requested torque. There are no mechanical cables between the throttle grip and
the throttle body. This is often referred to as a "throttle by wire" system.
The TAS sensor is composed of two magnets and a double output hall effect sensor that are incorporated
within the throttle grip assembly. The double hall effect sensor TAS is used for
redundancy. If one sensor is inoperative, throttle control will be maintained, but a check engine
light and a check engine message will appear in the gauge cluster, and a relevant fault code will
be recorded in the ECM.

TAS Operation

The ECM provides a supply voltage and a ground to each hall effect sensor. The hall effect sensors
in the TAS each produce a command signal voltage that is proportional to the throttle position.
Turning the throttle grip varies the two command signal voltages produced by the TAS accordingly.
The ECM will then power the ETA to open or close the throttle plates in the throttle body according to
the torque commanded by the operator, or other inputs such as cruise control or transmission control
module (SE6 model).
If the brake pedal is depressed and the throttle
is not released, engine torque will be reduced
to idle. Normal engine control will resume when
braking action is ceased .

[cravenfun]

I would try an electronic cleaner / lubricant in all the connectors. Garage stock for me is DeOxit. I use it whenever a connector has to come apart.
Back in the '08 to '12 years GM vehicles suffered from ''fretting corrosion'' in harness connectors. No operation, mystery codes, erratic connections or bad communications in the computer network where a common problem. That's what got me to use the DeOxit in all my connectors.
BRP uses the same type of internal network and that may be a source of erratic or mystery codes. And our rides have more vibrations.
It can't hurt and may be a simple solution to an erratic problem.
Diagnosis gives readings to check the harness but there is no way to verify module connections.

[Jetfixer]

I would try an electronic cleaner / lubricant in all the connectors. Garage stock for me is DeOxit. I use it whenever a connector has to come apart.
Back in the '08 to '12 years GM vehicles suffered from ''fretting corrosion'' in harness connectors. No operation, mystery codes, erratic connections or bad communications in the computer network where a common problem. That's what got me to use the DeOxit in all my connectors.
BRP uses the same type of internal network and that may be a source of erratic or mystery codes. And our rides have more vibrations.
It can't hurt and may be a simple solution to an erratic problem.
Diagnosis gives readings to check the harness but there is no way to verify module connections.

I agree, but be very careful with DeOxit on most plastics.

[Madmaxgt]

Too bad you're not a little closer. I would hook it up to BUDS2 and do a quick TPS reset. I'll bet it would go away...

Thanks! Sure wish I was, that would be awesome.

[Madmaxgt]

Just for grins I decided to research this one a bit. This code DOES appear in BUDS2. It is set by the ECM, and the code description is: "Throttle Accelerator Sensor (TAS) synchronistic error between sensor 1 and 2 OBD-L 1 related". BUDS says the possible cause is: "Throttle Accelerator Sensors (TAS) plausibility check error". The required service action is as follows: "Make sure sensor connector is fully inserted. Measure resistance from connector: ECMB-K1 to TAS-A (expected value: <2 ohms). Measure resistance from connector: ECMB-K3 to TAS-B (expected value <2 ohms). Measure resistance from connector: ECMB-E1 to TAS-C (expected value <2 ohms). Measure resistance from connector: ECMB-J3 to TAS-D (expected value <2 ohms). Measure resistance from connector: ECMB-A3 to TAS-F (expected value <2 ohms)

Is there a visual reference that shows where each TAS sensors are located and labels corresponding sensor/connector? Thanks

[fatboy]

are you sure she is not covering the brake pedal

[Madmaxgt]

are you sure she is not covering the brake pedal

Please elaborate, do you mean “riding the brake”?

[Peter Aawen]

Please elaborate, do you mean “riding the brake”?

Not fatboy, but here's something anyway - it's not necessarily 'riding the brake', altho that'll do it too!! . Even just letting your foot or the side of your foot just TOUCH the pedal & remain in contact with it for a few seconds is enough to trigger the first stage of the brake pedal micro-switch without actually applying any braking effort, but it WILL tell the Nanny that you're on the brake & if you do that for too long without slowing down substantially, she'll think the brakes have failed and dump the Spyder into Limp Home Mode! . It could also be that the micro-switch &/or sensor is getting a bit dirty & gummed up, so not releasing; or also that the Brake Pedal Return Spring is getting a little tired & not fully returning the pedal to it's proper 'OFF' position!

So you need to make sure that your foot is well clear of the pedal whenever the brake is not in use; touching lightly as a prelude to a rapid application, or covering the brake pedal just in case, isn't always a great idea on a Spyder! Best to keep your foot well clear unless actually applying the brakes, so that if this continues, you'll KNOW that it's not cos you were too close to the pedal, and so will be able to confidently check out those other posibilities/potential fixes mentioned previously!