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  1. #1
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    Default RPM shift points

    Ok, I have had my 2021 Spyder RT Limited for about a month and 1000 miles now.
    Have stopped looking the front brake lever and have started the process of spending money on things to make it mine.
    But I am still wondering about RPM ranges and shift points.
    I have followed the simply hold the throttle position and shift directions that I have read here and elsewhere (instead of roll off to shift like a manual clutched bike) but excepting the 3400 - 4400 rpm range the gear change is noticibly jarring (smooth as silk in that range).
    So...
    1. In normal riding (not hard acceleration) where (rpm) are you shifting?
    2. Above the 4400 rpm range; is the computerized electronic throttle rolloff and re-engagement expected to be jarring?
    3. What rpm range do you attempt to keep the engine within while steady state cruising? I find myself wanting to get to top gear and then realizing (around town speeds) that I am too far out of the powerband for immediate response.

    I have no issue with rpm if I should be winding a little higher - my wife appreciates the smoother (less to and fro) shifts at lower rpm.
    But I also want to break in and make sure I am operating the bike for its optimum performance.

    Thanks
    2021 RT Limited

  2. #2
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    The secret to smooth shifts is hold the throttle absolutely still when shifting - do not close the throttle when upshifting. It's OK to close it when downshifting to a stop. I assume you have a semi auto, you didn't say.
    When accelerating hard, you can grab over 6K RPMs.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  3. #3
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    VegasDan
    I shift per road conditions and down shift rather than braking. In reading much I think the rotax engine should be reved and shift around 5500 rpm. My fuel mileage dropped using that method. I shift at lower rpm and don’t roll off for a shift either up or down. My Spyder likes a steady state ride for best mileage. Don’t know any other results from the long term riders on this forum.

  4. #4
    Active Member Piratezz's Avatar
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    When cruisin, I keep the rev's around 2500 rpm, upshift to cruising speeds just around the 3000/3500 rpm's, whilst driving solo, rpm's usually lies around the 5000 rpm's
    the 1330 is a mighty motor, and likes it both ways, It loves to cruise, but also wants to be drivin hard... depends on the mood you're in...
    the funniest thing about this particular signature is that by the time you realise it doesn't say anything it's to late to stop reading it........

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  5. #5
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    For normal cruising ... I use 2500 to 2700 RPM's ..... Mike

  6. #6
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    The "sweet spot" for our spyders (1330's) is around 3500 rpm's. The 5500 shift range was for the 990/998's.

    I find smooth, noiseless shifting when shifting in that range. I let my spyder downshift at will. I try to run 3500 in all gears, except for sixth. Based on the speed over 55, the rpm's will go where they want. Best mileage is maintained by keeping it in the 3500 rpm range. I get high 30's/low 40's on mine all the time.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

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  7. #7
    Very Active Member Jetfixer's Avatar
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    I too, shift at about the 3000 mark. Do a search here for the 1330 torque chart. You'll find there's no reason to constantly wind this engine out. The vast majority of the torque comes on earlier than you'd think. After awhile, you won't even look at the rpms when doing normal driving; you'll shift by sound and feel.
    2020 RT Limited Deep Marsala Chrome

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  8. #8
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    Absolutely, sound and feel.

  9. #9
    Active Member redrazor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    For normal cruising ... I use 2500 to 2700 RPM's ..... Mike
    hardly ever go past 3,500 RPM ... unless I'm getting on a freeway on ramp with cars going by at 70+mph
    2014 RTL bought in 3/20 with only 6,000 mi.
    Came with Garmin 660
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  10. #10
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    I strongly suggest you thoroughly read your operator's guide. The 1330 engine is not going to let you lug it so it will not let you upshift below the rpm points the engine control module is programmed to for each gear.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
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  11. #11
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    If you like shifting above 3500, say 6500. Get stage 2 and a seatbelt to go with it.

  12. #12
    Active Member Quickdraw's Avatar
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    My dealer recommended 3100 rpm's, but I've found that around 3500 is the smoothest. When cruising at a constant speed, I stay around 27 to 2800. It's all about feel, and what riding style is right for you.
    2021 RT Base - Petrol Blue

  13. #13
    Very Active Member PaladinLV's Avatar
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    For normal traffic in city 3000

    AJ


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  14. #14
    Active Member T.P.'s Avatar
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    Just some numbers here, Your stock 1330 has a redline of 8100rpm, by adding a PV3 you go to 8400rpm. Now with the Monster flash 1&2 your at 8600 to 9200rpms.
    your not going to break it, But it's there if you need it! your gas milage will suffer the more you twist it.

    I'm guessing that most people will never hit that 8100 and those with the monsters don't always go to the top. Just ride it and don't worry about RPM's

    T.P.
    Last edited by T.P.; 05-14-2022 at 09:32 AM.

  15. #15
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T.P. View Post
    Just some numbers here, Your stock 1330 has a redline of 8100rpm, by adding a PV3 you go to 8400rpm. Now with the Monster flash 1&2 your at 8600 to 9200rpms.
    your not going to break it, But it's there if you need it! your gas milage will suffer the more you twist it.

    I'm guessing that most people will never hit that 8100 and those with the monsters don't always go to the top. Just ride it and don't worry about RPM's

    T.P.
    My experience is a bit different .... I've drag raced my 14 RT at a track and found that 6000 rpm's was the sweet spot for up-shifting. .... after 6000 the torque curve was dropping, so the gain in HP didn't improve things ..... my 11 RSS V-twin was different .... JMHO .... Mike

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    My experience is a bit different .... I've drag raced my 14 RT at a track and found that 6000 rpm's was the sweet spot for up-shifting. .... after 6000 the torque curve was dropping, so the gain in HP didn't improve things ..... my 11 RSS V-twin was different .... JMHO .... Mike
    Torque gets you there, HP keeps you there.

  17. #17
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    This is history but perhaps of use as general knowledge.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
    otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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    Cognac 2014 RT-S

  18. #18
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    I have to agree and slightly disagree with some of the advice. I also listened to others when I first got a spyder and I kept the throttle steady when up-shifting. I found that was fine for gentle and normal acceleration. If you are pulling hard there can be quite a clunk when up-shifting. It may not hurt it but I don't like it. If I want to accelerate hard I will roll off the throttle a bit just before up-shifting. Once you learn the timing the shift is smooth with no clunk. As far as RPM, I don't worry about it. Stay in the power band and it will feel fine. Not good to lug it and no need to rev it to redline.
    2022 RT-L , Carbon Black - Chrome Trim

  19. #19
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WingManDan View Post
    I have to agree and slightly disagree with some of the advice. I also listened to others when I first got a spyder and I kept the throttle steady when up-shifting. I found that was fine for gentle and normal acceleration. If you are pulling hard there can be quite a clunk when up-shifting. It may not hurt it but I don't like it. If I want to accelerate hard I will roll off the throttle a bit just before up-shifting. Once you learn the timing the shift is smooth with no clunk. As far as RPM, I don't worry about it. Stay in the power band and it will feel fine. Not good to lug it and no need to rev it to redline.
    Read my post #$ 15 above ( I never roll off the throttle - " you snooze you lose " in Drag Racing ...... if you are encountering a loud clunking I think something is failing in your transmission ..... good luck .... Mike

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Read my post #$ 15 above ( I never roll off the throttle - " you snooze you lose " in Drag Racing ...... if you are encountering a loud clunking I think something is failing in your transmission ..... good luck .... Mike
    Yeah, to each their own. There is nothing wrong with my transmission. I'm just offering a different perspective to the OP. I like the smooth way it shifts better under hard acceleratinon if I coordinate a quick throttle reduction when hitting the shift button, especially 2 up. Not trying to be a drag racer, just enjoy the ride.
    2022 RT-L , Carbon Black - Chrome Trim

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