Any ideas on this 2012 Spyder RT knocking sound?

[RazorV]

Hey folks, 1st post with a problem.
This knocking sound started on Saturday, it appears to only happen when in gear, forward or reverse.
It has been running a little rough a few times when i took it out for short runs.
Any ideas?
I made a short video of it -

[JSRT]

It sounds like the clutch is chattering while trying to engage. I think this is somewhat common on the older RT’s when the oil is cold. If my memory is correct, BRP produced some different clutch plates to help with the chatter. But if you let it warm up a few minutes before riding off, I think you’ll greatly reduce or eliminate the chatter. A fresh oil change may not hurt either - if it’s been a while. You may also want to be sure the front pulley is tight and without any “red dust” indicating worn or damaged splines. It looks like your display went blank when starting - may want to load test the battery too!

[Joel The Biker]

I agree. They chatter when cold. If it does it warm, CHECK THAT FRONT PULLEY!

[Peter Aawen]

Not sure that the pulley will be an issue on a 2012 - up until 2014 &/or the advent of the 1330 Triple motors, the V-Twins had a harmonic balancer type 'add-on' fitted to that pulley, and I don't believe there's been too many if any red dust issues reported on the pre-2014/V-twin models - at least not here that I can recall?!

But, as others have said, I too reckon that's the noise most pre-2014/V-Twins make as the clutch tries to engage when the oil is cold.... it occurs like that & is most evident/just like that on my 2013 RT (that came with the upgraded clutch plates) when the oil is cold. The remedy is, again as mentioned, to simply let it run long enough to let your oil (& not just the coolant ) start to warm up a little, and that noise will be significantly reduced/minimised...

Btw, I believe the upgraded clutch plates weren't intended to minimise or reduce that noise per se, they were more aimed at making sure the chattering, which is basically unavoidable to some degree with this type of clutch, wouldn't cause or result in any damage.

So all up, like everyone else here, I reckon that noise is 'normal'; it can be minimised by letting the oil warm up a bit more; and just like the 'clunk' that most of us get on first engaging a gear after initial start up, it isn't likely that it's gonna be hurting anything.

[RazorV]

I’ll check this out tomorrow but I am pretty sure that the clanging or banging happened the other day after it was already warmed up.
We bought this thing last year and rode it all summer without any problems at all.
It only has about 7500 miles on it and we put maybe 1500 of those miles on it.
It’s been running like crap and stalling and then this banging started on Saturday.

[RazorV]

I should also point out that I did the “canister-ectomy” the other day before I posted that video after reading about how it could solve the rough running problems.
It didn’t get any better.
Here is the thread that I went by -

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...8-2016-SM5-SE5

[Peter Aawen]

I’ll check this out tomorrow but I am pretty sure that the clanging or banging happened the other day after it was already warmed up.
We bought this thing last year and rode it all summer without any problems at all.
It only has about 7500 miles on it and we put maybe 1500 of those miles on it.
It’s been running like crap and stalling and then this banging started on Saturday.

Maybe there's something else wrong with the clutch??

It might be worth finding your VIN & checking with a dealer to see if that Spyder ever had the 'clutch plate upgrade' that came out around late 2012/early 2013?? Sorry, but I can't help with any of the numbers for that... Just a thoughty tho...

[RazorV]

I called the dealer today about taking it in, they told me they are about 2 weeks behind before they can get to it.
Pisses me off that there is a closer dealer to me, like 2 miles away but when I called them and told them that I had a 2012, the guys says we don’t work on Spyders that are that old.
I would really love to not even use a dealer but I am not that sure of myself to work on this thing in case it’s a big job.

[Peter Aawen]

Maybe you'll get a better response if you just ask them to run the VIN so you can see what's been done to it over the years??

[RazorV]

Maybe you'll get a better response if you just ask them to run the VIN so you can see what's been done to it over the years??

Ok I appreciate the info.
I will call them tomorrow.

[Mikey]

Have the two little vacuum hoses been replaced on the fuel pressure regulator? That will make it run rough!

[RazorV]

Have the two little vacuum hoses been replaced on the fuel pressure regulator? That will make it run rough!

I have not replaced any vacuum hoses since we have had it.

[RazorV]

Ok I let it warm up and it is still knocking.
The knocking definitely only happens when I put it in gear and attempt to move it, it does not knock when idling or when increasing the RPMs in neutral.
I am taking it to the dealer in a couple hours.

[Piratezz]

Just my two cents worth, DOES IT HAVE THE RIGHT OIL, for spyders it has to be a Jaso M2 spec, this is specially designed for wet clutches, let us know, what the dealer says after pulling the satts

[Derby713]

Just curious if your dealer or you were ever able to figure the problem out. I have a 13 STS and it is having the same issues.

[NorwegianRT]

I have a 2012 RTS and have never had this knocking sound, just that one clunk when putting it into gear from neutral !

It is important that you have the proper oil like Pirateez also mention.

[Derby713]

Upon initial acceleration it will knock from underneath and appear to have a loss of power. I’ve recently did a complete oil change, changed the fuel filter, put a new battery in, did a test on the purge valve and yet it continues to do it to the point it’s unridable. The only thing I’ve done different to the bike recently is put a Voodoo exhaust on however a buddy put the same exhaust on his 2010 with no issues.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Well, if it sounds anything like that video does - which is a heart rending sound - I think that it's either internal to your clutch, as the centrifugal clutch starts to engage the clutch pack, or it's a front pulley issue. That cold oil issue wasn't anywhere close to that problem. Pull off that left side panel so you can get a clear view of your front pulley and associated bolt as you put it into gear and try to pull away. You'll probably need a friend to help. Preferable a mechanically minded friend. Or you might find something wrong just by looking at it. Whatever it is, it's more than just cold oil.

You might also try sending a PM to RazorV. But his last post on the forum was the one above from last May.

[BajaRon]

What oil did you use?

Have you looked at your front pulley?

What happens when you attempt to ride it? Once you get moving, does the sound go away, even under hard acceleration?

The 2 most likely causes are, as mentioned, clutch issues or front pulley issues. Having just changed oil could certainly be an issue with the oil used.

[Peter Aawen]

Upon initial acceleration it will knock from underneath and appear to have a loss of power. I’ve recently did a complete oil change, changed the fuel filter, put a new battery in, did a test on the purge valve and yet it continues to do it to the point it’s unridable. The only thing I’ve done different to the bike recently is put a Voodoo exhaust on however a buddy put the same exhaust on his 2010 with no issues.

If the sound is only associated with acceleration, particularly hard acceleration, and isn't quite so metallic sounding as that in the video, then there's a chance that it might be associated with worn pulley teeth or possibly more likely, worn teeth on the belt?!

I ran into one of those ^^ just recently; a harsh and rapid 'knocking' noise associated with acceleration that became much worse under hard acceleration and was always accompanied by an apparent loss of power.... Only it wasn't strictly a 'loss of power' so much as a 'loss of DRIVE'!! The rider of this 2014 RT SE6 freely admits that he flogs his bike and rides it hard ALL the time, has done for the last 160,000 odd km's without any concerns; but then this noise started up recently under hard acceleration and has become progressively worse over the last 5,000 or so kms; so much so that now any revs over about 3500 will bring it on, and it rapidly gets worse from there as the revs go up and the drive drops off! It was quite difficult to ride it without bringing it on...

Upon inspection, the belt looked to be in good condition from above, but upon twisting it (to do a rough test of tension) it was suddenly very obvious that it was waaayyy worn So much so that the teeth didn't look like 'half-round' protrusions on the inside of the belt, but rather they looked more like '1/4 round' protrusions with a sharply angled concave face scalloped out of the pulling quadrant!! _/D_ is the closest I can get here, only the / was more hollowed out! The belt wasn't massively loose (still no Kricket that clicks here, but it only twisted about 100-110 degrees, so it's only a little looser than a belt that twists the usually expected 90°) and neither of the sprockets have teeth that look obviously worn, unlike the last one sounding like this that I saw!

All of this ^^ was resolved with a new belt and an admonition to play a bit gentler with his toys! I believe he's happily done another 5000+ kms since But I doubt that he's really treating it any gentler!

That other one sounding sorta like this that I mentioned had a loose/worn belt AND a clutch/output shaft issue - I discussed it here: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...n-cause-remedy

Anyhow, no idea if any of this helps at all; just putting it out there as another possibility and maybe some food for thought?!

Over to you - Good Luck!

[Derby713]

So I had someone look at bike when I went to accelerate. The drive belt is hitting on the guard causing the clanking. Anyone know how to fix this?

[BajaRon]

So I had someone look at bike when I went to accelerate. The drive belt is hitting on the guard causing the clanking. Anyone know how to fix this?

But I thought it made this noise without moving the machine? If it's hitting a belt guard, it should be doing this all the time. The noise shouldn't be going away. Definitely missing something here.

A picture (or pictures) would be of immense help here. If you can. Include one of the front sprocket.

[Derby713]

All the noise is coming from the back sprocket where the rear tire is. Almost like it’s bouncing

[BajaRon]

All the noise is coming from the back sprocket where the rear tire is. Almost like it’s bouncing

What is your belt tension? Did you have a tire or rear brake change recently? Are your tensioners tight? Usually, any loose belt hop will be on the smaller, less surface area front sprocket. I'm still thinking it's a front sprocket issue.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

All the noise is coming from the back sprocket where the rear tire is. Almost like it’s bouncing

Yeah, but still, pull off the left side panel and see if the front sprocket is jumping belt teeth causing the belt to flop around and hit the guard in the rear. Goes to what Ron and Peter are both saying. Will be easy to tell. The front sprocket would be turning and the belt won’t be, or won’t be at the same rate. Besides, if the belt is jumping teeth, probability is you’ll need a new belt anyway. Unless there’s some additional reason why the belt is so loose, yet not damaged.