Anyone use a hitch pin adapter instead of ball coupler?
I might have found a used 2016 bushtec trailer but it has a round pin latch (heim joint) rather than square ball coupler. Anyone ever use a hitch pin (heim joint pin) rather than ball mount? I don’t see why it wouldn’t work on our hitches either BRP or aftermarket. I just did Google search and found this.
Last edited by Wmoater; 05-02-2022 at 06:53 PM.
“Born to Ride......Ride to Live....MOATER ON !
“Current ride: 2017 RT Limited”
I might have found a used 2016 bushtec trailer but it has a round pin latch rather than square ball coupler. Anyone ever use a hitch pin rather than ball mount? I don’t see why it wouldn’t work on our hitches either BRP or aftermarket. I just did Google search and found this.
I've always hated the sound of the " ball & coupler " banging together .... so after I designed and built my Sch 40 X 2 in. PVC trailer. ... I decided to go rogue and also use something totally different ... I decided to try a " tie-rod " end, I liked the ones for the Toyt Echo which were both small and therefore lighter. .. the Rod end is also threaded so I use a nut inside the trl. Arm for fastening ..... I have towed that trailer many, many miles in complete silence, and rarely knew it was there .....life is good ... Mike ....PS the the Tie-Rod only cost about $ 14.00 ....
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 05-02-2022 at 09:51 PM.
Correct Mike. That’s what it looks like. I was just looking around bushtec site and found the exact mount. The top one is the one I found on Facebook on the used trailer. I sort of like it myself. Just don’t know enough about it. My Opinion, the ground would be really good compared to couple on a motorcycle. I’ve never had a trailer or hitch besides on automobiles. I can see it being much more quieter. Only issue I see is how do you lock for security and theft to a tree while at campground etc? Just cable through the hole and wheels vs using a coupler lock and cable?
Last edited by Wmoater; 05-02-2022 at 07:18 PM.
“Born to Ride......Ride to Live....MOATER ON !
“Current ride: 2017 RT Limited”
Correct Mike. That’s what it looks like. I was just looking around bushtec site and found the exact mount. The top one is the one I found on Facebook on the used trailer. I sort of like it myself. Just don’t know enough about it. My Opinion, the ground would be really good compared to couple on a motorcycle. I’ve never had a trailer or hitch besides on automobiles. I can see it being much more quieter. Only issue I see is how do you lock for security and theft to a tree while at campground etc? Just cable through the hole and wheels vs using a coupler lock and cable?
#1. - " quieter ", actually it's totally SILENT ..... #2.- if someone decides to steal the trailer, my set-up will not be capable of using a trailer BALL . ..... there are various different ways of securing any trailer, the one you mentioned will work ..... #3.- I must use a separate Ground connection because my trailer is PVC plastic. .... my trailer with the Sears cargho box is actually less than 100lbs. total weight..... Adding or changing to a " tie-rod " connector can easily be done to any trailer, for Spyders ..... Mike ... OK I just looked at your picture comparison, the upper pic is NOT what I have.... my tie-rod has a threaded rod with a ball end attached and pressed into the holder end , I have not ever heard of that Ball coming out of the holder. .... google Toyt. Echo tie-rod for a pic ..... M
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-03-2022 at 02:39 AM.
Mike: Could you share the details on your pvc trailer(sorry to hijack the thread)?
Wish I could show a pic (however I still can't figure this out ) .... I used 2in. Sch 40 PVC, it's 53in. L X 40 in. W... with a 24in. tongue .... I added a 12in. up-right piece at the rear for the Lights. This was for visibility. I attached the axle to a 1 x 4 in. piece of pressure treated wood .... It has a COIL spring (from an ancient metal bed spring - like they used to make) .... The suspension is of the " Cantilever style " with 4 inch bolts to stop full extension. It so simple, maybe this is why it works. I did load o it up once to 400 lbs with sand and towed it around and nothing broke. Of course, at this weight the springs were completely flattened, which is because they were for only 200 to 225 max .... If you don't have a welder this is an easy project .... PS I ran all the wiring inside the pipe BEFORE I glued them together. What I bought for fittings were 3- " T's ", (two for the rear up-right pieces) ....6 - 90 degree Elbo's, ( 2 - for the rear piece) and two lengths of 2in. pipe ... plus one small container of solvent/glue. The trailer lights were a kit bought at Walmart. ... and a found a Sears Car Top cargo box someone threw out ..... good luck ... Mike
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-18-2023 at 04:11 AM.
Also, how do you keep the tie-rod from seating into it's holder so it is easily removable?
I just added some more info in my above post ( after the Blue words ) .... If you asking how do I secure to the Spyder hitch, I don't have the BALL , just a 1/2in hole in the tongue.... my tie-rod is not what is pictured by the OP ... mine has a threaded rod with a ball end which is press fit into main section of the tie-rod. ....I use a 5/8 lok-nut, to keep it firmly on the Hitch tongue .... Hope this helps .... Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 05-04-2022 at 01:26 AM.
Until tonight, I have seen a very safety-conscious guy that used to investigate traffic accidents and is very much into tire safety. Now I learn that you have a PLASTIC trailer that you take on the highway???
Until tonight, I have seen a very safety-conscious guy that used to investigate traffic accidents and is very much into tire safety. Now I learn that you have a PLASTIC trailer that you take on the highway???
.
Well my " plastic " trailer has actually been inspected for highway use in the State of Vermont. ..... As have 10's of thousands of " plastic " Corvettes. As the years go by I sometimes wonder why I have put certain members on my " Ignore " list, thanks for re-minding me ...... Mike
My Opinion, the ground would be really good compared to couple on a motorcycle.
If you are thinking ground as in electrical ground for the trailer lights, forget it. The coupling does not assure an adequate ground, and in the earlier days of the Spyder many bikeside trailer converters were destroyed by using the trailer hitch as the ground connection. Just make sure there is a good ground connection via a ground wire in both the bike and trailer harnesses.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Could explain what a 'bikeside trailer converter' is please?
From day 1 of the Spyder, I believe, the optional trailer harness utilized a module that directed battery power to all the trailer lights. Trigger signals for the various functions were taken from the bike's lighting circuits. Therefore the trailer lights were controlled by the bike, but did not add load to the bike lighting circuits. The module is generally referred to as an isolator, i.e., it isolates the trailer lighting load from the bike lighting load. If something bad happens to the trailer circuits it won't affect the bike circuits. The early Can Am trailers used a nine wire system and isolators were sensitive to interruptions in the ground circuit.
The trailer harness for Spyders since about 2013 use an isolator that is also a converter. It converts the 5 wire system of the bike to a 4 wire system for the trailer, i.e., the Spyder uses amber turn signals but the trailer does not.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
I should have added that there are trailer harnesses from a couple of the after market vendors for the Spyder that isolate, but not convert, the Spyder 5 wire lighting system to a trailer 5 wire lighting harness. The connector that the trailer plugs into is a 5 wire flat.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
We pulled a Bushtec behind a 2014 ST-L and a 2018 F3-L. Both used the Bushtec pin mounted onto an OEM BRP hitch. For electrical we used a BRP trailer module and then fabricated an adapter that went from the square 4-pin on the trailer module to the flat Bushtec trailer harness. The trailer module powers the trailer lights directly from the battery eliminating potential CAN-Bus issues.
Although we never had a problem, I didn't (and still don't) like the swing-arm mounted hitch - puts excessive punishment on the trailer's hitch with each bump the rear wheel hits. Based on the geometry, a half inch of tire movement will move the hitch pin 1": it isn't the movement but the sudden change in direction ;-)
pauly1 - SpyderDeb's 'wrench'
2018 F3-T & 2015 F3-S Road Warrior Foundation Tribute customs
IBA #48220 SS1000 BB1500
Anyone use a hitch pin adapter instead of ball coupler?
!
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by Wmoater
....PS the the Tie-Rod only cost about $ 14.00 
....
) .... I used 2in. Sch 40 PVC, it's 53in. L X 40 in. W... with a 24in. tongue .... I added a 12in. up-right piece at the rear for the Lights. This was for visibility. I attached the axle to a 1 x 4 in. piece of pressure treated wood .... It has a COIL spring (from an ancient metal bed spring - like they used to make) .... The suspension is of the " Cantilever style " with 4 inch bolts to stop full extension. It so simple, maybe this is why it works. I did load o it up once to 400 lbs with sand and towed it around and nothing broke. Of course, at this weight the springs were completely flattened, which is because they were for only 200 to 225 max .... If you don't have a welder this is an easy project .... PS I ran all the wiring inside the pipe BEFORE I glued them together. What I bought for fittings were 3- " T's ", (two for the rear up-right pieces) ....6 - 90 degree Elbo's, ( 2 - for the rear piece) and two lengths of 2in. pipe ... plus one small container of solvent/glue. The trailer lights were a kit bought at Walmart. ... and a found a Sears Car Top cargo box someone threw out ..... good luck ... Mike 
