Thanks Bert. Yes the thread did wonder for a bit because I had to let the bike sit even longer and never got to do anything that was suggested. I had some great losses and I lost attention on the bike issue which sucks for the bike condition.
Basically it comes down to what I’m familiar with like the other engines. This tech is new to me so I’m sorry you have to repeat some things. Some of it I didn’t understand till you explained it a little differently. If you’d prefer not to help me I understand but it appears you’re what I need.
Hope you stick with me but with a little more patience because having these issues because it may be something I did sucks enough.
In order to get a more complete picture of what's going on, it is helpful to pull up the fault codes. When you do this yourself, you can only pull up codes that are Active at the moment that you pull them. So, start it up, and while it is running like poop, simultaneously depress the Mode, Set and Turn Signal Cancel Buttons (turn signal button pushed straight in). Any active code will appear on the center LCD display. It looks like a OBD-II code but it isn't. So, don't Google for its meaning. Put on your reading glasses, right it down, and just post it here. Someone can look it up for you.
We had a 2014 RT in here a couple of years ago with your exact same issue after sitting a long time. Was throwing a Lean code. Turns out the whole thing was due to low fuel pressure as the fuel pump was failing and actually completely died right in from of us. Made diagnosis pretty easy.
No, I'm not saying go out and replace the fuel pump yet. But a fuel system pressure test would be prudent. All you need to do is Tee into the pressure line between the fuel pump and the inlet to the fuel filter, with a test gauge rig. Since you have a screw type clamp at the filter already, you could tap into the line there and not have to cut anything. I bet your A&P buddies at the airport would have a test rig already made up that they use, and would let you borrow it for a few hours. You can test it with the engine stopped or running. But of course, running is where your problem is. Normal pressure is 56 - 62 PSI. I would do this long before I got into borescopes and such.
And, if you're seeing steady improvement with Redline fuel system cleaner, stay with what works.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 08-12-2023 at 08:00 AM.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
Doug, i wasn’t going to go any deeper than I did on removing parts of the bike but the more I took off the more missing screws I found. So I have the air boxes off so I can see the plugs and fuel rails. Should I inspect anything at this point or get some more screws and get the breather back on so I can run it?
Doug, i wasn’t going to go any deeper than I did on removing parts of the bike but the more I took off the more missing screws I found. So I have the air boxes off so I can see the plugs and fuel rails. Should I inspect anything at this point or get some more screws and get the breather back on so I can run it?
Well, if you have plugs coming from Ron, and wanted to get them in, now’s the time. It would give you the opportunity to look at the old plugs. Just inspect all the electrical you can see for good connections and for any rodent damage. Nothing specific comes to mind, unless you find a smoking gun. Rehab and replace what you need and start putting it back together.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
Ok, what am I looking at here. I expected to see spark plugs and ignition wires. ��
I would like to look at the plugs just to rule out the easy things. I assume it’s here.
Well, this is a good example of why getting that repair manual will benefit you. Otherwise, you’re gonna spend why too much time on the internet. 25 bucks.
The 1330 is a coil on plug engine. Each one of those is the coil for that plug, and it’s triggered from that wire harness going to each one. Low voltage. So, remove that screw, give the coil some twisting motion back and forth while pulling straight up. It’s similar to how you would remove a plug wire from a plug. On Ron’s page he has a nifty diagram.
Don’t know why they sold you wires. Communications issue I suppose. Talk to them to return them. Did they send you 3 wires or just 2.
Check the intake manifold for nuts and seeds the best you can, to make sure nothing got past the air filter. There may be a pile in the silencer in the intake and filter area.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
Spark plugs look ok I guess. ....
I’ll just clean off the excess anti-seize or maybe put in the new ones I have.
If you've got them, put in the new plugs. While it's sorta unlikely that they've just failed, you really can't tell if they are still functioning properly just by 'looking' at them - and you really don't want to hafta pull it all apart again just to replace them once you've ruled everything else out, do you??
Mind you, the presence of 'nuts or seeds' does suggest there may have been some rodent action in there, so besides doing that intake manifold check that Snowbelt suggests, it might be worth your while to also very carefully check all the wires in the harness to see if anything's been nibbled on!
Let me begin with new plugs. The BR kit contains two packets: thermal paste and silicone lubricant. There isn't much of either but it's sufficient. The thermal paste is trickiest. Squeeze a tiny bit on the plug threads and spread it around. Rotate the plug and repeat. You don't have to fill the threads end-to-end but you do need to have some paste in a ring of threads for the entire circumference. With the lubricant you want a small amount on the coil "nose" that goes over the plug ceramic and a small amount on the seal that mates with the valve cover.
The spark plugs look fine except for being rich. If you conducted a header pipe heat test, I think the three pipes would be about the same temperature. That is, this isn't a single cylinder problem.
So I go back to your initial diagnosis: sensor.
Would you try reading the diagnostic codes from your instrument console again. I've never done this so other members can provide guidance.
And disconnect the battery for at least 20 minutes just to try to reset the ECU.
While disconnected check the airbox for nuts and shells as described above. With a small bright LED flashlight inspect the engine wiring for any signs of rodent damage. My country-life experience says they like individual wires near connectors. I've repaired more than one.
With the battery re-connected run through the throttle tests I described above.
There's a good chance in Texas heat a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor failed but usually there's a diagnostic code.
Can you provide some history for this Spyder?
BTW BRP sometimes uses the same connector for different sensors. I recommend a masking tape label when separating connectors especially on the left side of the engine.
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod
2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
Ok, the plugs I have shown my wife picked up when we first started having the problem out of a guess so we will have to source the silicone and thermal paste (I wonder if it's the same silicone at HD in plumbing and same thermal paste as CPU chips use?). She was just going for oil and filters but came home with extras.
The sensor plug looks like about $76 on Parts Shark. Where is a good source for parts? So should I test the fuel pressure next or go for the sensor? Does the sensor require any alignments to be made of the cam or does it just bolt on and done?
The rodent garbage is from the previous owner but I'll inspect everything.
I've read a few post about the method for getting the codes so I'll do that too.
I need to check the battery...it seems a bit weak and charging through some errors in the charger so I need to look into that too.
That's too bad about spark plugs. Yes the silicone lubricant is the usual stuff you buy for brake pad replacement, etc etc. For the thermal paste contact Baja Ron about buying a packet.
A 1330cc engine oil and filter change is not like other engines. So do some research first. And if you wife is buying parts from a local store than means you aren't replacing the HCM filter. Buy one from Baja Ron when you buy the thermal paste. The 1330cc paddle-shift transmission needs clean oil because it has close-tolerance solenoid valves like an automatic transmission except it shares oil with the engine and clutch plates.
Before ordering any sensors please conduct some of the tests we have proposed.
Replace the battery now. FLA if you must but AGM or LFX are better.
Otherwise you will fuss with the battery for six weeks and then replace the battery.
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod
2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
Ok, I'll get these plugs in and get the codes. Reset the ECU.
The battery is a Motobatt AGM that's just over 3 years.
That's PLENTY old enough to be causing problems if it's cranking even just a little bit weak.... if it's not already completely knackered only just hasn't quite dumped you fully into it yet!
Besides, it'll probably be more than 'just a bit' weak if it's spent months sitting around with a few 'less than 30+ minute runs on the road/Hwy' thrown in - those short idles/engine only runs are pretty much the WORST things you can ever do to any battery, and especially so to a Spyder battery!!
Bert's given you the good oil on the battery... Just Do It!
At the very worst, you'll be saving time & money on needing to replace it at the worst possible &/or most inconvenient time later on!
I'm going to post anything I do from here forward. I have the oil so I'll post it before I do anything. Probably getting the plugs in tomorrow, just need to stop by the shop and get my torque wrench. 14 nm I think.
Oil is correct. I think the large filter is correct. The small filter is basura as are the O-rings. You need a Baja Ron rescue kit.
The local shop
Let me see if I understand this: your local shop is located under a large spreading elm tree with fresh air venilation and evolution-friendly solar lighting.
I repeat: CALL BAJA RON
I'd suggest buying a service manual but not sure you'd read it. Maybe your shade tree mechanics would, at least during sunlight hours. Anyway the thermal paste p/n and application are described on page 8 of Subsection 08 (Ignition System).
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-19-2023 at 09:33 PM.
Reason: Removed post title - many only see main thread title, & post titles mess with searching!
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod
2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
This is the results thread from my other thread about letting my Spyder sit too long and what I thought created engine problems. After the discussion about bad fuel and such not causing problems I replaced spark plugs, checked coils and all was good.
Then someone suggested making sure all connections were tight which is where I found the problem.
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Originally Posted by Pictreed
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