Dead S2S - won't start after lay-up! Any ideas?

[dusty1300]

This Spring, I rode the S2S for about 500 miles or so, then it got cold, so I parked it. Later I moved it into my garage, put it in neutral and moved it around by hand, shut it off.

Yesterday, I tried to start it up, and it starts to make a noise like a solenoid to a starter with a bad battery.

I took out the battery, took it to O'reillys, they said it was ok.

I did the voltage test with it off, key on, then hitting start. All good.

I currently have 4 codes in the display: P2301, P2307, P2304, U0100. The latter was the first code I found, then more I messed with it, the more coded I got.

It seems like something happens in the transmission when you first turn on the key. Not sure. I noticed the N light flickers when whatever solenoid is being triggered.

It will start, but immediately shuts down after starting.

I made an appt with the local dealer, but rather not go through the work of trailering it to them, so thought I'd post this and see if there is anyone else seen something like this and if there is an easier solution.

It is under warranty, so don't want to void that.

I have searched the forum, but not finding much, maybe I'm just not finding the right combination of words to match something.

Tom

[Gedge]

My guess is it probably is the battery, but it is under warranty so I would go that route.

[campermac]

If it is under warranty don't play with it, take it to the dealer.

[canamjhb]

Tom,
You indicated it would start but immediately shut down after starting. That sounds more like a faulty fuel pump or clogged system. The fuel pump on my former 2014 RTL was replaced under warranty at a cost of more than $1K. Time to get it to your dealer. Good luck..... Jim

[dusty1300]

Thanks admin for improving my subject line. It needed it.

My battery is out of warranty. I was told 6 months. Expired in March. I'll would be happy to buy a new battery if I can get it on the road.

Taking it to the dealer tomorrow morning. Hope it is something simple and not need parts I can't get.

I know things can break anytime, but I was hoping for more than 500 miles before dying. This is my 34th motorcycle... first one to do this. But, I'm an optimist... it WILL get better.

Tom

[Piratezz]

As stated above, Bad fuel, clogged fuelpump, maybe try some seafoam, but better let the dealer sort it out...

[Little Blue]

....I agree that some people are not comfortable with the Spyder Dealership/Technician working on their Spyders. However, if the Dealer has a Spyder trained Technician usually things will come together with Can-Am.
A least that has been my experience.

Ask your Dealer if they have a 'Spyder Trained Technician'.
My does and this is a real help. He can call BRP and get back with good information. That's what happened to me and my Spyder.......

MY TIP: So use the Warranty. .....

[Joel The Biker]

Sounds like the low compression starting issue the service bulletin and buds update was issued for.

[dusty1300]

Well, got the Spyder taken to the dealer... had to push it onto the trailer. not the easiest.

They won't be able to look at it till tomorrow. Hopefully, it will be simple and I can go for a ride!!!

Tom

PS. thanks to all who gave me their time and ideas.

[dusty1300]

Update; Dealer loaded new firmware due to many codes. Didn't fix it.

Not sure if the initial problem is gone, but was told that it still shuts off when started at about 1200 RPM. I had that issue also, figured it was related to the first issue when turning on the key.

They will continue troubleshooting on Tuesday, not open on Monday.

I'm praying that if a part is needed, that I can get one. The other posts on here about parts is terrible.

At this dealer, they have 2 Rykers, no RT's or F3's. Even if I were to trade in my S2S with 500 miles, there is nothing there to trade it in on. No chance of pulling parts off of stock as they don't have any.

I guess I should be happy that this didn't happen on a trip somewhere.

The dealer has been good so far, but very busy. They mostly do watercraft ( I live at Lake of the Ozarks ), ATV's, SeeDoos are their main thing. At least they said they would bring it indoors so it doesn't get rain/hailed on.

Tom

[dusty1300]

Further update if anyone is interested:

After about a week, the dealer with the help of BRP found there was an ECM fuse that was blown. Since it was still working, sort of, maybe there is more than one fuse feeding the ECM. Not sure about that.

Replaced fuse, all the codes and clicking gone, but still having issues with the bike draining the battery. Dealer is working on solving that now.

Hopefully I can get it soon. Nice days are really close here.

Tom

[Joel The Biker]

My battery drain on my S2S was the radio amplifier not turning off. I pulled the fuse for the amplifier and the drain went away. I dont know what the permanent fix is. I switched to aftermarket amp.

[Isopedella]

Cheers for reporting your findings. I was lurking with interest as I had no idea.

[dusty1300]

Thanks, Joel... I'll pass that along.

Tom

[dusty1300]

Joel, was this drain with the bike off also?

Tom

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Joel, was this drain with the bike off also?

Tom

Until He answers, I'm really sure the DRAIN is when the Bike is OFF. Any electrical system that has a built in charging device ( ie ..alternator, generator , or magneto )is going to ( or should ) re-place the power of the Battery..... Mike

[dusty1300]

You are probably right, but I was thinking it might be conceivable that the charging system may not be enough to overcome the drain by a leaky amp or something like that.

If I were to tell them in the shop, I wanted to make sure, I had all the facts.

But you are probably correct about it being in the off position.

Thanks very much for responding.

Tom

[K80Shooter]

Dusty1300

Almost all if not all vehicles today have a constant drain on the battery. Some more than others and there's also things that go bad and put more of a drain on the battery. Yes, even with the switch turned off.

Also many people do not understand exactly what the alternator is designed for. While it will charge a battery "if" the vehicle is ran for a long enough period of time it comes at a cost.
If done continually it will greatly shorten the life of the alternator. "An alternators main purpose is to maintain the charge on the battery" just as the battery tender does.

[dusty1300]

Got my Spyder back today. Here is the verdict. One of the fuses that goes to the ECM was blown. They believe that maybe the existing firmware did it somehow. I don't know.

They also found a few fuses weren't seated quite all the way in.

So, new battery, new firmware, all seems good. All under warranty. I guess I can't complain about that.

Looking forward to the Summer, finally!


Tom

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You are probably right, but I was thinking it might be conceivable that the charging system may not be enough to overcome the drain by a leaky amp or something like that.

If I were to tell them in the shop, I wanted to make sure, I had all the facts.

But you are probably correct about it being in the off position.

Thanks very much for responding.

Tom

I wouldn't be concerned about the alternator system on your Spyder ..... When BP was using a " magneto system " for the V-twin engines. They wouldn't / couldn't do a good job of replenishing the Battery UNLESS the engine was kept at or above 4000 or more RPM's ..... So parasitic drains were a real issue .... Most folks with RT's kept them on battery Maintainers ...... Mike