ACS solenoid releasing air constantly

[TNSpyderRyder]

I have a 2013 Spyder RT-S SE5, and I was trying to locate a leak in my ACS (rear air suspension) and think I may have caused another problem. Before I started, the problem was that the rear suspension didn't hold air for more than a few hours, and the ride control switch did not do anything to the suspension (it does appear to be working, as in I don't get the 'manual' displayed). I manually had to air up the suspension before each ride. I checked fuses and relays, to no avail. So, I took all of the body parts off in order to get to the ACS components and test them out. Using some soapy water, I did locate leaks on the air bag and the check valve connected to the compressor. But, since the system wasn't working by using the ride control switch, I thought I would test the compressor to see if it was working. I connected it directly to the battery, per the maintenance instructions, and it runs. However, it doesn't put out any air. So, I guess I need to replace that part. Now, the really irritating part is this: now, when I start the bike up and put it in gear, on the test stand, the ACS solenoid is releasing air every 3 seconds, emptying the suspension in a couple of minutes. It definitely wasn't doing this before! Could this possibly be due to the fact that the rear cargo module is remove so that nothing is plugged in there, including the seat? Or does it look like I screwed something else up somewhere?

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated? Please feel free to ask for clarification on anything I might have missed.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have a 2013 Spyder RT-S SE5, and I was trying to locate a leak in my ACS (rear air suspension) and think I may have caused another problem. Before I started, the problem was that the rear suspension didn't hold air for more than a few hours, and the ride control switch did not do anything to the suspension (it does appear to be working, as in I don't get the 'manual' displayed). I manually had to air up the suspension before each ride. I checked fuses and relays, to no avail. So, I took all of the body parts off in order to get to the ACS components and test them out. Using some soapy water, I did locate leaks on the air bag and the check valve connected to the compressor. But, since the system wasn't working by using the ride control switch, I thought I would test the compressor to see if it was working. I connected it directly to the battery, per the maintenance instructions, and it runs. However, it doesn't put out any air. So, I guess I need to replace that part. Now, the really irritating part is this: now, when I start the bike up and put it in gear, on the test stand, the ACS solenoid is releasing air every 3 seconds, emptying the suspension in a couple of minutes. It definitely wasn't doing this before! Could this possibly be due to the fact that the read cargo module is remove so that nothing is plugged in there, including the seat? Or does it look like I screwed something else up somewhere?

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated? Please feel free to ask for clarification on anything I might have missed.

Well it could be that or something else ..... I have a BASIC - RT .... which means NO compressor .... I add air about once a year ... and it's good .... A lot of folks swapped out BAD compressors for a model made by VAIR (?) ...( do a search above ) .. At a minimum you are going to need to re-place the BAG ..... it doesn't have to be from BRP, it just has to be the size as the BRP one..... there are quite of few sources for theses BAGS , they are used in the auto /trk industry for leveling or raising suspensions ( I put them on my old Toyt. trk ) .... good luck .....Also ...... Mike

[mecsw500]

I have a 2013 Spyder RT-S SE5, and I was trying to locate a leak in my ACS (rear air suspension) and think I may have caused another problem. Before I started, the problem was that the rear suspension didn't hold air for more than a few hours, and the ride control switch did not do anything to the suspension (it does appear to be working, as in I don't get the 'manual' displayed). I manually had to air up the suspension before each ride. I checked fuses and relays, to no avail. So, I took all of the body parts off in order to get to the ACS components and test them out. Using some soapy water, I did locate leaks on the air bag and the check valve connected to the compressor. But, since the system wasn't working by using the ride control switch, I thought I would test the compressor to see if it was working. I connected it directly to the battery, per the maintenance instructions, and it runs. However, it doesn't put out any air. So, I guess I need to replace that part. Now, the really irritating part is this: now, when I start the bike up and put it in gear, on the test stand, the ACS solenoid is releasing air every 3 seconds, emptying the suspension in a couple of minutes. It definitely wasn't doing this before! Could this possibly be due to the fact that the read cargo module is remove so that nothing is plugged in there, including the seat? Or does it look like I screwed something else up somewhere?

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated? Please feel free to ask for clarification on anything I might have missed.

Well, it could well be the system is trying to continually lower the bike as it doesn't have all the logic inputs and it thinks it is raised too high. If the rear wheel is just hanging in the air on your stand this would definitely lead the system to try and lower the ride height continuously. You could disconnect the ride height linkage from the swing arm to the sensor and pull it down to force the suspension to think it was bottomed out to see if that stops it bleeding out air every 3 seconds? It should of course cause it to try and do the opposite and run the compressor continuously to fill the system.

I wouldn't worry about that so much until I got the basic parts working though. It does seem at the least you have a leak in the air bag and the check valve. This probably meant the compressor has been working overtime to keep pressure in the system for goodness knows how long and is now non-functional from overheating or excessive wear. So I think at a minimum you need to repair or replace the check valve and the air bag to start to stop the leaks, along with replacing the compressor to get air into the system.

Obviously this is not going to be a cheap fix. There are some alternative aftermarket air suspension systems, as well as some regular old shocks. Looking at the price of these alternative air systems, as they come with the shock as well, none of the systems I could find were especially cheap. There are also third party compressors and air bags available to replace the OEM parts but none of them are a direct replacement for the originals and would take some degree of plumbing in, then of course have to be BUDS calibrated to work correctly.

To me there would be two reasonable options for me at any rate. One, replace everything that is leaking and plumb the system to just use the Schrader valve to adjust the ride height, taking the ACS solenoid and compressor out of the system, or two, replacing all the leaking parts and the compressor to keep it stock, then having someone reset the calibrations with a BUDS unit. Me, as I'm not into modifying a whole bunch of things related to the air suspension system, I would replace all the leaking parts with OEM components and then take it to the dealer to be re-calibrated.

[TNSpyderRyder]

That's kind of what I was thinking and hoping... maybe I just need to plug the rear cargo module in and put some weight on the back end and maybe it'll behave. I've already ordered all of the replacement parts. No telling how long it'll take to get them. In the meantime, I'll do the above and if it works, I'll just go back to filling it up before every ride until parts come in.

Thanks for the replies, guys!

[safecracker]

A quick, temporary fix is remove power to the bleeder/release valve. This will stop it from dumping air all of the time. Bruce

[TNSpyderRyder]

A quick, temporary fix is remove power to the bleeder/release valve. This will stop it from dumping air all of the time. Bruce

Yeah, that's what I was planning on doing. If I can't figure out what's wrong with it, just manually release air from the schrader valve when needed. I wish this thing just worked, though.

[safecracker]

Your 2013 should have the update compressor. The earlier ones, a bolt that attached the connecting rod to crank would loosen up. Most compressors die because they are over worked. The one way valve is usually the culprit. I converted mine to a manual air bag. No more worries. Bruce

[TNSpyderRyder]

Your 2013 should have the update compressor. The earlier ones, a bolt that attached the connecting rod to crank would loosen up. Most compressors die because they are over worked. The one way valve is usually the culprit. I converted mine to a manual air bag. No more worries. Bruce

Hey, thanks man! I went out and took the business end of the compressor apart and low and behold the shaft had come loose from the motor! I took the bits out, cleaned them up, put on some red locktite and put it back together. It works now! It put 20psi in the bag in like 3 seconds. I have a new compressor on the way... I'll probably put it on the shelf for the inevitable time when this one finally dies.

Thanks for the tip!

[mecsw500]

Wow, with stuff flailing around inside it’s a wonder it hadn’t eaten itself up. Fantastic that you could fix it. Yes, I’d put the new one in and put the old one aside just in case. I don’t know whether they come with a warranty but I’d tape the receipt of the new one to the old one. That’s just in case it does a rinse and repeat cycle and if your like me, I can never find the receipts when need them. Well done for the perseverance, you probably saved yourself a small fortune in service bills and you now know it’s done properly.

[TNSpyderRyder]

Hey, I replaced the pump tonight, plugged the rear cargo module and seat in, started it up and put it in gear... the pump and the solenoid both worked as expected! For a few minutes... then the display showed 'manual' when I adjusted the ride height. I'm thinking maybe the ride height sensor needs to be calibrated now, like you said. However, I'm not opposed to the manual option. Ha! I thought that it meant that I would have to fill/empty using the schrader valve, but that's not the case. Push the button forward, the compressor pump runs. Push the button back, the solenoid lets air out. That could work full time if the calibration is too pricey. Ha!

[mecsw500]

That’s weird. I thought it was supposed to balance things automatically. You could try turning the bike and sit on it, then get a passenger to sit on the back. Does it add air? When they get off does it let air out? Or, it might be worth looking in manual as I’ve no idea if it has to be in gear or not, moving or not, to do the auto adjustment. I like the fact that the manual adjustment works, after all it’s just adding or taking away preload. My Triumph Trophy TTSE and a previous BMW R1200 GS used to automatically set the ride height when you started them and put them in gear, then they stayed at the same settings until you either went through that cycle again, or you set a different number of riders and luggage on the dash. The BMW allowed you to vary the damping too, but in both cases the bikes basically set everything once you were in gear then that was it, or at least that’s what it seemed like. The Spyder seems like it is more dynamic that that, but if was stuck with manual adjustment, I would leave it like that. At least you won’t be wearing the pump out as quickly because it will only operate when you want, not every few seconds or so when it wants. I wish my 2021 art Limited had a manual adjustment to be honest, it would be much less complex and I suspect rather more reliable. Your mileage may vary though.

[TNSpyderRyder]

Yep, it's supposed to be automatic. We'll see what happens after I get everything back together.

[msherwood]

I have a 2013 RT limited and the ACS does not hold air pressure, can anybody provide me with what to check for causing the pressure drop?