Electrical malfunction after short - is there a Main Fuse?

[turbineman]

When wiring my trailer, and testing the right side turn signal. I inadvertently shorted the positive wire from the Spyder to ground.
Everything on the main panel went dead. And, when I turn the key to the "on" position, everything remains dead (no panel lights).
Guess I blew a fuse or something. The operating manual does not show a "main" fuse. Is there a main fuse? If so, where would it be?

Suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

[turbineman]

While working on the trailer wiring harness, I inadvertently shorted the Spyder power wiring to ground.
When I turn the key to the ON position, nothing happens. There is no power to the operating panel, start pushbutton, horn, etc.
Comments are welcome. Thanks.

[fatboy]

fuses in the frunk

[turbineman]

Fuse is in the trunk?

[fatboy]

yes two black boxs one right one left what year

[Knizar]

Fuse is in the trunk?

forward trunk= Frunk , under windshield!

[turbineman]

yes two black boxs one right one left what year

2015 rt

[fatboy]

front unzip then youll see

[turbineman]

forward trunk= Frunk , under windshield!

Which fuse is the main power to the electrical system?

[fatboy]

not sure youll have to look at the inside of the cover what year and make

[turbineman]

I had previously checked all the fuses in the "Frunk", and they all look good. Not blown.
Comments?

[Navydad]

How did you check the fuses? Simply looking at them isn't always sufficient. Check them with a test light or volt/ohm meter. Blown fuse won't always give a visual clue.

[turbineman]

Good point, thanks.

[turbineman]

Also, some indicators and panel lights initially bounce around, then most go dead.

[Bfromla]

Passed on to me back “19: thank you (lost name)
1D1CA672-1012-417D-8286-B5F388F30594.jpg

[BertRemington]

Turbine -- you said "When wiring my trailer, and testing the right side turn signal. I inadvertently shorted the positive wire from the Spyder to ground."

1. What positive wire did you short?

2. What Spyder-to-trailer adapter are you using (please don't tell us you are wiring your Spyder turn signals directly to your trailer turn signals).

3. What pages of you Owner's Manual are the fuses described (my 2014 RT-S manual is pages 149-151)?

[K80Shooter]

Also check for loose battery connections.

[turbineman]

Turbine -- you said "When wiring my trailer, and testing the right side turn signal. I inadvertently shorted the positive wire from the Spyder to ground."

1. What positive wire did you short?

2. What Spyder-to-trailer adapter are you using (please don't tell us you are wiring your Spyder turn signals directly to your trailer turn signals).

3. What pages of you Owner's Manual are the fuses described (my 2014 RT-S manual is pages 149-151)?

If memory serves me, it was the trailer "running light" wire that I grounded (connected to common).
I installed the Big Bike harness for the 2010 & later Spyder RT.
The outputs of the wiring harness from the Spyder were all good before I inadvertently shorted the trailer wiring.
The fuse descriptions are located on pages 156 & 157 in my manual.
They are also labeled on the fuse block covers.
The trailer wiring connector is unplugged, however, Spyder electrical issue remains.
And the battery is fully charged.

[turbineman]

Thanks for the diagram.

[BertRemington]

"If memory serves me, it was the trailer "running light" wire that I grounded (connected to common)."

If you shorted the trailer side of the Big Bike harness it would not cause problems on the Spyder side unless you wired the Big Bike wrong.

So let's assume you shorted the Spyder side. Here's how the lights work:

* Tail lights -- illuminated when Ignition is ON

* Brake lights -- illuminated when brake pedal pushed even if Ignition is OFF

* Turn lights -- illuminated only when Ignition is ON unless in Hazard Flash mode

So the first item to check is the Tail lights fuse then the Brake lights fuse. If either failed check the upstream fuses too.

Questions --

1. Why were you fooling around with the wiring while the Ignition was ON or the brake pedal pushed?

2. Did you have the trailer connected when you grounded the wire?

3. Something about your installation process isn't making sense. Were you following the Big Bike installation instructions?

[BertRemington]

I looked at the Big Bike 41-162 trailer harness and I'm really impressed on how you managed to damage your Spyder electronics.

The BB harness taps into the left and right rear light assemblies using 5-pin SuperSeal connectors. You can't screw those up.

The BB harness gets its power from the Spyder via a 15amp fuse. I'm not sure where the connections were made but the picture shows ring terminals so I assume you didn't have to tap into any existing wiring.

That leaves the five trailer side wires. If you shorted any of them the BB 15amp fuse should have failed not a Spyder fuse. Unless unless...

Check LHS F7 (10amp); RHS F1 (15amp); RHS J4 (30amp)

PS a small LED flashlight is really helpful working in that frunk space.

[BertRemington]

After some research it appears that maybe Big Bike/Show Chrome might have had some electronics failures. So undo the two 5-pin SuperSeal connectors, check the fuses specified above and then see if your Spyder is fully functional.

If your trailer has LED lights, change the BB 15amp fuse to 5amp otherwise 10amp.

Then one at a time, with the trailer disconnected, install the 5-pin SuperSeal connectors and see if the tail, brake and turn lights work.

Then connect the trailer and see if the tail, brake and turn lights work.

Since you didn't mention the BB 5-to-4 wire adapter, I assume you have a 5-wire trailer (Amber turn signals) -- is this correct? If you have a 4-wire trailer are you using the 5-to-4 wire adapter?

And apparently the two ring terminals fasten directly to the battery. Did you do that? Or did you connect them somewhere else?

[turbineman]

"If memory serves me, it was the trailer "running light" wire that I grounded (connected to common)."

If you shorted the trailer side of the Big Bike harness it would not cause problems on the Spyder side unless you wired the Big Bike wrong.

So let's assume you shorted the Spyder side. Here's how the lights work:

* Tail lights -- illuminated when Ignition is ON

* Brake lights -- illuminated when brake pedal pushed even if Ignition is OFF

* Turn lights -- illuminated only when Ignition is ON unless in Hazard Flash mode

So the first item to check is the Tail lights fuse then the Brake lights fuse. If either failed check the upstream fuses too.

Questions --

1. Why were you fooling around with the wiring while the Ignition was ON or the brake pedal pushed?

2. Did you have the trailer connected when you grounded the wire?

3. Something about your installation process isn't making sense. Were you following the Big Bike installation instructions?

Question responses:
1. With the ignition ON, and the trailer wiring was connected, I was verifying the trailer lights were working properly.
2. Yes, the trailer was connected. I was checking the right side running light on the trailer, and shorted the two wires at the running light.
3 Before I connected the trailer plug, everything was working properly on the Spyder side.

[Joel The Biker]

Have you tried disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery in the spyder? It could reset circuit breakers, if any. Just an easy thing to try. Also try the horn and hazard lights. These should both work with the key off. Your symptoms lean towards a dead battery or maybe a bad relay for the main power(R3 in left fuse box).

[turbineman]

After some research it appears that maybe Big Bike/Show Chrome might have had some electronics failures. So undo the two 5-pin SuperSeal connectors, check the fuses specified above and then see if your Spyder is fully functional.

If your trailer has LED lights, change the BB 15amp fuse to 5amp otherwise 10amp.

Then one at a time, with the trailer disconnected, install the 5-pin SuperSeal connectors and see if the tail, brake and turn lights work.

Then connect the trailer and see if the tail, brake and turn lights work.

Since you didn't mention the BB 5-to-4 wire adapter, I assume you have a 5-wire trailer (Amber turn signals) -- is this correct? If you have a 4-wire trailer are you using the 5-to-4 wire adapter?

And apparently the two ring terminals fasten directly to the battery. Did you do that? Or did you connect them somewhere else?

Yes, the Big Bike power and ground wires are connected directly to the battery
All was working properly at the output of the harness before I connected the trailer.
The trailer has 5 wires, same has the Big Bike harness.

With the trailer disconnected, the Spyder ignition will not turn on. When I turn the key to the ON position, the front panel lights will flicker on and off, then the panel goes dark.
The various gauges will bounce up and down a few times, then stop. Really strange.

What is your recommendation for a good shop manual?

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.